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Everything posted by forddeliveryboy

  1. Doesn't it get both boring and tedious at 60mph on most of our Mways, constantly having to find a slot in faster moving traffic to overtake the HGVs? If I was going to go at that speed I'd sacrifice a little economy and seek out quieter, older roads (as in the post at the bottom of the previous page) which have evolved down the centuries, avoiding all that pollution while having time to take in the landscapes and architecture.
  2. Man is slowly being turned into cabbages, slave to the microchip. We're not using them intelligently, instead we're increasingly relying exclusively on satnav. Having little or no idea of where you are switches off a lot of the intelligent bits of brain, so motorways are used regardless of the alternative. As well as satnav, we're also controlled by the nationwide computer network which automatically issue fines/sanctions when average speed exceeds ever lower limits, while dangerous vehicles and driving continue unhindered. Nobody will programme satnav to pick out unclassified roads with junctions mainly in their favour, the roads which once were the highway. They usually sort the fastest way, ignoring perfectly-engineered A roads and pour the masses down slip roads onto wide strips of tarmac which require nothing more capable than a Mk3 Golf, roads which even when near empty in the middle of the night are increasingly limited to the speed you struggled to achieve in a 425cc 2cv, into a headwind. Last Friday I travelled from Thirsk to Crook, Co. Durham and back. OsmAnd (which works very well, as satnavs go) drew a dog leg route which involved too many slow and awkward miles once off the A19 (dual carriageway) so for the return leg I took the roads people would have chosen 80 years ago, down the A68 past Darlington, the A167 to Northallerton then on to Thirsk on the A168. Wide, well-surfaced roads were quieter than a motorway at 3am, it was a properly relaxing and enjoyable journey. The only others on the roads were locals and people travelling within the area, rather than vehicles aggressively accessing the North-East from all over the nation. It felt like a canal boat holiday, especially as I passed over the clogged A19 (the avoided dual carriageway), except the journey took 55 minutes instead of an hour and ten on the 'fast' route. If I'm heading to the SW in the daytime, instead of enduring M1 and M42 I'll use the A1 to Newark, then the quiet A46 to Leicester, beyond which I use the Roman roads through Stow-on-the-Wold and then to wherever I'm heading for. Journey times are reliable and stress is low, it adds about 40 minutes to a near empty M-way trip and uses about the same amount of fuel.
  3. S2s were in general better rust proofed but made from inferior steel, the last year or two of S1 production was really high and they did have good corrosion protection. I'd go for a S1 every time if possible, not only was the body steel better but component quality was higher too, in my experience.
  4. You can improve the cheap chassis massively in the cornering and general roadholding dept by welding in some fillets which triangulate critical corner joints and adding an extra cross member between the axles, but it still doesn't improve the general twitter and other failings associated with them. Feel free to PM me for details.
  5. I'd also only touch what needs doing, the one injector which had a leaky seat sorted on the V70 started to fail soon after it'd been out which isn't uncommon. That was 40k ago, none of the others has started leaking since.
  6. If the rear brake pipes (talking 320's GS now) are corrosion free at the wheel end, chances are the rest of them will be ok. None is so awkward to replace, apart from the rear brake pipes from axle to wheel, where they vanish inside the axle and out of sight coil many times around the arb. Most simplify as on CXs and reroute them externally. Watch out for laurel resting when a car has been brought from a warm, dry part of Europe - the anti corrosion protections will have deteriorated through age and use and could very well be little barrier to Scottish roads.
  7. The great thing about BXs is that general mechanic didn't fear them in the same way as the cars designed before everything (apart from the core elements of the suspension) became Peugeot, from the engines to the back axle. They aren't VAG or Volvo straightforwards, but there was nothing much than front handbrakes he wouldn't have seen on a Sierra or Carlton - I think this simple fact went a long way to helping them become such a mass seller in the UK. I've driven a 17RD before and it was ace, a sweeter engine than the 1.9 and an economy/comfort package which the owner couldn't stop enthusing about. This white one looks a properly good buy.
  8. Had it lived near the sea or been hauling dinghys up and down slipways, I wonder? I think I've invoked the Junkman reaction by daring suggest hydropneumatique or anything related to it is intrinsically reliable. I did once replace a rear brake pipe on one, a gf's ratty old GSa - otherwise I always found them near-pristine, in stark contrast with their often rusty shells.
  9. All they used to need was the filters blown through and fresh Total LHM every 5 years, plus spheres recharged or replaced every 3-5y. I've worked on all cars, and would infinitely prefer doing this to wrestling with coil or leaf springs, dampers inside MacPh struts and so on. I've seen more than one otherwise competent garage man have a genuine psychological phobia surrounding these cars, one guy I knew would virtually break out in a sweat just MoT testing them! The DIRAVI was noticed to have no normal mechanical link by one guy, who asked if I'd had it apart and forgotten to replace a bit. When he found out it was the hydraulic equivalent of steer-by-wire he went into orbit with an anti-Citroen rant, whereupon an elderly customer wondered out loud how our aircraft had ever succeeded in the war or any farm ever managed to keep its tractors working.
  10. Routing them just forwards of a rear wheel was either cynical, stupid or a Peugeot request - I bet 320touring's GSa front to rears are all nearly 40 years old, they're routed down the centre out of the worst spray, where the exhaust heat can keep them dry. I did write 'pipe' and wasn't suggesting they could all be made up for a tenner! I knew the flarers were pricey, mine was a hundred twenty years ago, I'm surprised one of the guys who makes the range of special tools hasn't turned his lathe to making them.
  11. Yeah, I was aware if that but casually derogatory comments on Cit suspension, even when tongue in cheek, still irritate me! The system was only ever vaguely unreliable back in the 1950s when brought to market a year or two too soon when there were still flaws in production. Once fully sorted in the 60s, it was as or more reliable than any other component over 200-300k miles.
  12. It's as daft an idea as those quirky modern* brakes which involve connecting your foot to a piston and cylinder, moving fluid down a pipe and then duplicating with another piston and cylinder to move the pads or shoes. Ffs, what was wrong with cable brakes, or preferably a wooden chock jammed up against a wheel? Far less to go wrong. PS it's a fairly straight forwards job to replace a f>r pipe on a BX, the pipe should cost a tenner or so. None of that removing of fuel tank carry on as with some quality Germans.
  13. Even after a decade of paying no more than 20ppl for most of my fuel and setting up a really decent, minimal-intervention process to ensure the oil is cleaner than pump diesel, wintertime still means everything takes a little longer, even with a heated, insulated dewatering/settling tank. Fortunately, fewer miles are driven November-March, but it's still good to have a largish storage tank - mine's an old central heating oil tank and holds about 2000l. Filtration elements should be used as a safety net rather than to catch all the bits you suspect are there - tipping collected oil into an initial settling drum, leaving for two or three weeks then pumping off the top 90% to be filtered is a really good start. Google the weir system of filtering if you want to spend nearly nothing on filtration. Time is always your friend, it's a balance between consumption, storage volume/space and time.
  14. Having read posts elsewhere on the forum commenting on a few PDs on veg, I thought it was worth mentioning that it's more that Common Railers on veg are the few, while PDs for veggers are steadily becoming the many now values are so low. From what I read, were I going to use a CR then it'd be max 60% veg, the rest mostly diesel with a splash of petrol dependent on time of year. PDs seem capable of running 100% veg if twin tanked and with a fphe, so 80% veg shouldn't be a big problem. I'd not use that GM soya on anything other than ancient IDIs if at all possible, besides glooping up then gelling as temps drop into lower single figures it doesn't burn cleanly like rapeseed (which is liquid down to -10C and below). Anyone mixing petrol with veg (even with some new oils) can expect gummy precipitations, it's a recognised way of cleaning and dewatering oil. As a minimum precaution mix one lot outside the car's tank and leave for a few days to settle and observe. www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/mybbforum/showthread.php?tid=43988&page=11 www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/mybbforum/showthread.php?tid=44636 vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/mybbforum/showthread.php?tid=45173
  15. But it doesn't work like that and they're two very different cars. An OM603 + autobox in a 124 can be sublime effortlessness (and bloody irritating in a 2cv way in some circumstances) - a diesel will return figures similar to the 3 litre six petrol motor if driven really hard (with less speed but better slogability). Try to keep up with today's cutnthrust traffic in a 300D and the fuel gets sucked through those lines pretty fast while accelerating relatively sedately. But there's the wonderful six cylinder smoothness and longevity, as well as effortless (if gentle) performance, and a truly lovely sound as the revs rise. I once pulled a couple of tonnes flat out with one of mine and it gave 26mpg, about right for a 3 litre six pot with 110hp working hard. On a steady 75 mph run it'd go 45 miles on a gallon, on veg. The equivalent petrol at that speed would do 30 on a good day. And there's no way of buying some weird petrol substitute for 10p a litre from your favourite hotel or restaurant. I think 320's one has many, many miles showing and could probably do with sniffing a bit of Vim to hone up those smooth bores, as well as a few saunas (steam injection) - it's covered tens of thousands of miles on veg. 28mpg is about what I'd expect. A tired autobox alone could sap an easy 6mpg.
  16. In a cubie? I'd have been a bit nervous, too - but have taken 25l containers through plenty of railway hubs. They're fairly substantial, was only once asked what they contained (by a Polish guard on Scotrail, who relaxed when he found out it wasn't petrol, diesel or anything more flammable than salad dressing). Of all the different cars I've run on veg, the Mercs were always the ones to start instantly whatever the temp or veg conc. Is it possible there was still air in the lines? If not, and yours is the one I think it is, it's been run on veg for a decade and tens of thousands of miles so I wonder if it'll probably be a bit burnt pan finish inside the cylinders and on the rings and injector tips unless it's been run hard a lot of the time. This will make itself known with poor sub zero starting and inability to accelerate easily enough through 100mph, either water injection or running the motor very hard for a consant few hundred miles cures them. Retarded injection timing (caused by chain stretch) only makes matters worse.
  17. Bloody 'ussies. (as in PetenDud) And Happy New Year, everyone.
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