Jump to content

forddeliveryboy

Full Members
  • Posts

    8,882
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    27

Everything posted by forddeliveryboy

  1. A Maikonics Cit CX Turbo, 250bhp and 320lb.ft doesn't sound massive today, but it was quick in large part due to the extraordinary chassis, brakes and steering. Quite amazing, made contemporary supercars seem very ordinary.
  2. Would be Total 15w40 for me, if it's still affordable. On the Zinc question, I had a chat with an oil guy a while back and he reckoned there was still enough in to protect cams, plus the Boron and other protection had increased. Zinc was always the cheapest protection, what's used in addition today is more expensive and supposedly longer-lasting.
  3. Fine cars, I preferred driving an SRi to the Mi16, you could actually enjoy using the performance without worrying about your licence (as much). The dampers were Peugeot made and really good, I've known them weep a bit then reseal, perhaps give it time to start dripping oil before junking?
  4. I drove one of these all over Devon many years ago and loved it, it was a really sweet car. Enough power, more grins to the mile than a GTi (which ime was as much gritted teeth as grin) and simple enough to keep into old age. I've always wondered why prices haven't gone silly.
  5. The only rule I have is to avoid buying anything from a farmer, the larger the farm the worse the offering in my experience. They've a completely different view of life - tax-free assets, a guaranteed highly-subsidised income from the tax-payer and a mentality of expecting things for nothing, plus a vehicle has often been driven daily in a grinding paste soup of mud at the beginning and end of most journeys. Otherwise, I've learned to be open-minded when reading adverts. Dreamers and those with daft ideas of values more often than not are reasonable and beyond fair once they're confronted with facts when pointed out in a reasonable manner and it's clear you know your onions and aren't bullshitting. Plus, chances are they'll generally only have had interest from dreamers. Put two dreamers together and a deal rarely works. I've bought from Bradford/Keighley, from those who can't spell or construct sentences, can't take a photograph, have hidden bits they haven't wanted seen, those who've used false excuses for sale, accents so thick it's impossible to understand half of what's said, receipts for tyres batteries and exhausts passed off as service history, those with Transits in the background, Billy goats in the foreground, 'dangerous dogs' on a chain, litter-strewn un-mown gardens and so on. Even non-English (they're far easier!). Women, especially those who call themselves professionals (but act like they're anything but) can be hard work if they believe they can pull the wool over any bloke's eyes, but the longer anybody denies reality, the worse they make it for themselves in the end. I've walked away only to be rung back hours, sometimes days even weeks later, when a deal is always better. It probably helped I was buying older, collectable stuff and not shining Audis or BMWs from posher suburbia, but even so had to deal with brazen gazumping in full sight (wrote a post on that occasion somewhere on here many years ago - the end result was deeply satisfying). There are very, very few truly unpleasant people in this world, perhaps too many greedy sorts who think they can blag themselves a better life.
  6. When in a hurry, they feel slow, when not they feel fine. The D5 feels more like a petrol than dizzle, even in low power version it's fast as. Which can be annoying, since the economy is then worse than an Audi 100 2.2 petrol, yet not as fast. Lots to be said in favour of 90s diesels. If the 124 is barely quicker in kickdown then it's gloopy fuel which can't move and burn fast enough (fphe makes a vast difference to this in winter, only a tenner too) or a tired autobox. Or both. When right, one of these should accelerate much harder through 4-5000rpm than under 3, on the right bit of road they should feel plenty brisk in 3rd. They're quite unlike anything before or since, I'm pleased you're appreciating their hidden qualities.
  7. Hiya 320, just listened to that cold start vid properly and here's my take - three glows will take the edge off any battery not in its prime, but it started well, ran ok for a second then died. Which means a bubble of air or the fuel was so thick it wouldn't come down the lines quickly enough. Was it me or were those warning lights dimmer second time the starter turned it over? A good battery of the right spec is vital for these engines running veg in cold weather. How was it as temps dipped to -10 and what sort of veg/dino ratio were you on? Google 2EHN, find somewhere you can source 99% pure acetone for a tenner or less for 5l and add that at 0.15%. Below zero, 1% petrol reduces viscosity nicely without harming power output too much on a N/A engine, I'd want 5-10% too. Below -10 I'd add 30% BP or Esso diesel unless you're running rapeseed. Saving ~£70 a tank, isn't it worth £30 spent on a mains preheater? They're ace - way cheaper than batteries and starter motors and much quicker than chasing leaks caused by gloopy fuel. Otherwise a hot water bottle round the spin on filter improves the first minute of running and if there is ever a FTW (unusual with OM60x, mine always went even on 100% veg at -5) a kettle of boiling water over the lines and injectors usually sorts things.
  8. I've been pleased with a set of Davanti on the D5 V70 which came from a chap who bought a set then immediately read a pistonheads thread and thought he was doing himself a favour selling them for less than cost of a new Pirelli. 400 miles, 70 quid. I was prepared to take a chance at that price. They've good steering feel and have ok grip in the warm and dry - and with modern tyre sizes that's more than enough grip unless you've pressed the ludicrous button - great in the wet and superb in the cold and wet. I mentioned in another thread they felt like a winter compound with summer tread pattern, they were very grippy in some snow in November. The only downside is wear, the fronts will perhaps have managed just shy of 20k by the time they're down to 2.5-3mm, not bad for cheaper tyres perhaps but the usual driver is very gentle on them. It's the old story, you don't get owt for nowt. I'd recommend them as all-weather tyres for someone doing a low annual mileage.
  9. Many Octavias had mechanical IPs through the first half of the 2000s, they're dull but economical and reliable. A V70 is a better place to be but better suited to longer journeys. Watch out for sticking VNTs on all modern diesels. An Audi 80 will still be passing MoTs when all the 2000- tat is crushed, they ride better than many a larger more modern thing too. Because 1986 and all that.
  10. Our hourly rates are higher than a lot of Europe, too - in large part related to our artificially high property values.
  11. A post-war Pickfords delivery of an 80 ton press from Sheffield to the River Ure where the A1 passed through Boroughbridge, West Riding (now North Yorkshire) previously intended for Scotland.
  12. Could be the sunflower oil, I tried it early on in my veg career and didn't like it for its starting bother it gave in winter. I think the gel point is 3C or so but there's more to it than that, engines always felt wooly and lacking on the stuff. If adding some rapeseed in something like 30% proportion improves things, I suspect it could be all or part of the problem, but 15% diesel with these engines usually makes starting easy even mixed with nasty stuff no matter what its temperature. Compare the battery voltage on your various cars when the starter is engaged, this will give you an idea if the Merc's is approaching end of life.
  13. What's the oil you're using, and what's the mix? These lumps do need a hefty battery, veg or not. An air leak in a delivery valve seal, a knackered gp, poor injector spray and low compression can all cause a cylinder to not fire. If compression's bad, it may take half a minute to start firing. Lethal if running veg, unburnt fuel will trickle down the piston sides and gum the rings into a viscious circle.
  14. Worth trying a different, known good battery? Check the resistance on the plugs, but if they're not NGK that should be fine. Try a third coil, if there is one.
  15. These engines were state of the art diesel when introduced in the mid-80s, not quite as tough as it's predecessor OM617 but unlike them near silent at idle and with a refinement better than many a petrol six. I even preferred it to the rather antique-feeling equivalent Benz petrol motor; the 3.2 24v was an improvement. Nothing came close in the late 70s/early 80s - diesels were a bit slow and grim before the PSA XUD. The straight six VW van engine (78-95) which Volvo used made about the same power once a turbo was added and wasn't as extensively engineered, or reliable. These 'whispering diesels' are short stroke and revvy, tuned for the autobahn and so can feel a bit of a slug on clogged English roads, especially combined with a heavy and long travel right pedal. Add a tired autobox and performance can be abysmal. They come on cam around 3500rpm and pull hard for another 2000. Under 90 mine used to travel 34 miles on a gallon of veg/diesel, keep around 65-70 and this would go up to 41-42. A mate once had a coupe with the OM603 fitted, he bragged about 45-50mpg on motorway runs which I didn't believe until he leant it to me for a week - it was a manual and the fuel needle seemed to barely move, it was as economical at up to 90 as at lower speeds, something I'd found before with older German cars. My own manual box 250TD (S124) would return a regular 42 on veg (up to 50 on a steady run), yet would hum along at 190kph given a long enough straight. Emission regs and cost did for them, if nothing else I'll miss the steady flame out of the tailpipe for a mile or two when run at over 100 after weeks of restricted driving (on veg) - unburnt fuel presumably gathered in the silencers.
  16. Which is why bank accounts should always be empty or nearly so.
  17. And don't undo it too far! A turn and a half is enough, any bother re-pressuring the system (only happens once in a blue moon) with an empty HP pump which isn't priming, have the engine running and turn it to and fro. Failing that, fill the supply line with LHM.
  18. Probably be the supply line which is leaking if it quickly drained the reservoir, the circuit is sealed from the return side if the height corrector isn't sensing it's too high. Avoiding jacking up the back unnecessarily, with a leaking supply line once fluid is lost from the back (the hc would release it back to the reservoir) there's no damping at all once the spheres are bearing little or no load, plus a dragging arse end. As Talbot says, you're not forced to use the correct MB pipe for the front to rears, I used Kunifer. The damping valves are within the rear pipes which supply the rams from the height corrector, so if these go you must replace with the real thing. You can break them by overloading/abuse unlike a Citroën - I've blown internal and external seals on the rams when towing fast on poor roads. If you ever adjust the height (it's a lovely easy thing to fine tune with a stainless threaded rod, unlike on a Citroën) it mustn't sit too high, loading the hydraulics above their capacity by increasing the sphere loading. Guess how I know.
  19. It should be standard safety equipment. [/tongueincheekbutstillmakingthepoint] Driving the Traction Avant many thousands of miles never bothered me, it just heightened your senses. It's human nature to live/drive up to a certain level of danger, which perhaps explains some of the appalling driving seen everyday on our roads - it's possible people believe today's cars are safer than they really are?
  20. My mistake, didn't look closely enough at that late hour. How soft is the back suspension? If the rear struts are dry of oil or not working there'd be no damping whatsoever and any real weight in the boot would see it grounding. Didn't you have an engine in there? Removing the fluid bits from the rear suspension means losing the gas springing too (spheres are tucked away almost out of sight), those coils you see are just to stop the cars Citroening when left for a few days and for emergency use. Adding standard rear dampers and relying on those coils alone results in a very floppy back end, even unladen. If all that's needed is one pipe, that'd be much quicker than replacing everything else.
  21. Has that fuel pipe been greased/oiled up or is it leaking fuel? Seems odd someone would grease just the one. Those dry SLS and fuel pipes would enjoy a bit of grease, they might live to see another few winters.
  22. And remember to replace the sump plug before pouring in the new. Sounds so obvious, but when chatting to a mate then answering the phone, I made a fool of myself. In front of mate, who said something daft like, "I thought you knew about cars".
  23. Ensure the oil drain container is bigger than the sump capacity. Sounds obvious, but plenty have assumed a gallon or 5 litre container will do, when it won't. Also, avoid windy days unless the drive needs covering in (more) drips.
  24. I stopped off near Shildon and then forgot, otherwise might have. Even so, it's six and two threes unless you then join the A1, which I was also avoiding.
×
×
  • Create New...