Bren

I had more time this afternoon to make some progress with the non bodywork related matters.
I drained the engine oil. It wasn't that dirty but it stank of fuel. Too many cold starts over the years and excess fuel probably washed down the bores into the sump, hence the smell.
Note to self - clean the sump and crossmember. 

I overfilled the sump slightly, allowing for oil that will find its way into the filter.

The thermostat housing was filthy.

So I gave it a clean. Not perfect but it will do.

I hoovered and thoroughly inspected the luggage compartment. 

Nothing to worry about other than some slight localised surface corrosion.

I painted the seams and rusty bits with the not so good matching Rust Oleum paint.

The floor carpet extends to the top of the rear panel and is secured with velcro. The bits of velcro stuck to the carpet need stapling back but are otherwise ok.
 
The other side of the velcro, which was stuck to the back panel, was knackered. Someone replaced it in the past and didn't do a good job of it. I removed the old velcro and adhesive residue and stuck down some fresh, unfortunately white coloured, very strong velcro. I'm not fussed about the white, it will be concealed behind the carpet.

Then the postman brought a nice little parcel that contained a new water pump and thermostat.

I fitted the new bits, together with the previously acquired fan belt.

Finally, I re-assembled everything under the bonnet....
....added fresh antifreeze....
....reconnected the battery....
.....opened up the garage doors....
....turned on the ignition.....
.....and....
.... the Pinto fired up straight away and ran like a dream. The engine is silent, runs smoothly on all four cylinders and nothing leaked out for the duration of the test.
Winner!!!!
 

80's fords will do big mileages but they get baggy quickly - the trim was never great on mass produced stuff - having owned a sierra and mk3 granada of similar vintage there is a noticable difference in quality - the granada is much better.
From the pictures you have low mileage car.

Kwality operation.

So are you on the lookout for a 335d?

So are you on the lookout for a 335d?

So are you on the lookout for a 335d?

Good luck. Hope they aren't a couple of whoppers.

Good luck. Hope they aren't a couple of whoppers.

Coming along nicely, the paint match may not be fantastic but its way better than rusty patches. I am enjoying this thread. 

I had another go at removing the fan clutch. I've wrapped an old fan belt around the pulley, secured it with cable ties, squashed it in a vice to stop it from turning and with three of the four bolts that secure the pulley removed (one is enough to keep the pulley in place) I can comfortably get an adjustable spanner on the lock nut.

I'm still not sure which way to turn to get the lock nut off but by applying plenty of force on the spanner, the fan belt snaps before the nut shifts. 

@lisbon_road - can please have your locking tool?
I have made progress with the rust treatment. 
I brushed down remaining dust and  debris from the underside and coated the exposed metal on the floor pan and the rear suspension components with a Rust-Oleum spray on black wax.


It has sealed the sill seams very nicely.

I've coated exposed metal in the offside rear arch.

I used filler to make good the end of the offside sill. Rust plebs on the rear arch were probably caused by scratches (impact damage, which is partially visible towards the rear of the arch) as the inner side of the arch is solid. 

I pained the offside sill.

I painted the exposed metal in the offside front arch.

I painted the underside of the front and rear offside doors.


I painted a section of the offside upper side of the chassis leg, where water has  been pooling and caused surface corrosion.

And finally I gave the battery tray a lick of paint too.

The paint match looks horrendous in the photos. It's not perfect but it looks better in real life than in the photos because I had a massive spot lamp shining on the areas that I photographed and iPhone cameras are not the best. For some reason, my phone's camera has made the original paint look very pale, which it isn't. 
Also, bear in mind that the new paint is shiny and the original paint is flat. I expect the paints will match better once I have cut and polished the original paint.
The arch liners will conceal most of the exposed metal so I am not fussed about the patchy finish.
The plan is to over spray all painted repairs above sill level with the aerosol can that I know is a good paint match.
I am confident that the Sierra will look ok once it's finished. Ideally, it would need a complete respray but that is not going to happen under my watch.

Some progress ! Got a new old stock carb from Italy . They are different from 104s and sambas which is a pain in the ass . 
Just given the engine a good jet wash off and ran it back up to dry it out .
Ive booked a few days on it in March to undo dad’s bodges and hopefully get it mot ready . 

 

What a honey.
It should go well as the 1.3 has 70 odd hp - even in a cavalier it is not exactly underpowered.
Those wheel trims are delish - for bonus shite points you need the white ones from an antibes model.

What a honey.
It should go well as the 1.3 has 70 odd hp - even in a cavalier it is not exactly underpowered.
Those wheel trims are delish - for bonus shite points you need the white ones from an antibes model.

Well done ETCHY. It’s a funny one this, someone has clearly looked after it and it’s actually in good condition but some of the bodywork finishing is hilarious. 

A few on here old enough to remember matchbox superfast and corgi junior twin packs.
This is an autoshite twin pack.

Our mondeo has been well behaved however of late a raspy sound and a smell in the cabin convinced me the exhaust had a leak. This turned out not to be the case. The 2.0 pug engine has two covers - the rearmost covers the injectors. Some dampness on the outside persuaded me to investigate further.

 
 
Oh dear. Only when I pulled the injector did I appreciate how grim it was. I ordered a puller from ebay rather than faff with pliers and pry bars.

Quite a substantial slide hammer - a few blows saw the injector loose. Access - the injectors and fuel rail are effectively in a box - is limited.

Grim. I could not belive the amount of shite that had built up. Very mercedes benz like. And the smell is gopping. Somebody said it was like cooked meat - sorry but if your meat smells like this I hope you have more than one bog.
I made the mistake of spraying carb cleaner on it. All this did was make it soft and even more of a pain to remove. A selection of flat screwdrivers and picks - aided by compressed air and henry the hoover - got rid of the shite and I was happy when I could see dull silver.

The injector was equally shocking and looked like a turd.

A combination of carb cleaner and wire brush in a drill got rid of the baked on crud.
The washer was utterly mullered - eroded on one side.

 
Indeed there was so much crud paranoia set in - I had a vacuum and compressed air and I found myself cranking the engine every so often just to clear the injector orifice.
Paranoia extended to the hole for the injector clamp screw. I had started to put it back but it was harder going than I would have liked so I stopped and wound it out.
I chased the hole out with an M8 x 1.25 tap.

Lack of access meant a pair of thin nosed pliers were the only thing I had that would fit. The tar that I had removed with carb cleaner had solidified inside the hole. More carb cleaner rags and compressed air got rid of the last. Eventually I put everything back after cutting a new seat.

I had to spend £80 on a new set of leak off pipes. Top tip - DO NOT pull back the green lug you can see - on old pipes it will snap - internet vids will show you how NOT to do it. Just get a small flat screwdriver and lever the nearest part of the green clip from the injector body.
Just as I tried to start the car it cranked once - and stopped. I shat myself - I was worried I had hydro locked the engine with carb cleaner even though I had been careful. It turns out the battery was dead.
A jump from a good battery and the car started almost immediately - my chef's kiss was short lived when the car died and wife unit pointed out diesel was pissing everywhere.
I had been caught out. The metal pipe from fuel rail to injector can be fitted the WRONG way around - they are the same pitch of thread but the fittings have a different taper. Fortunately I soon spotted my balls up and swapped it around.
I have also discovered that diesel is brilliant for making underbonnet plastic shine - every cloud etc.
Car started ok off a slave battery and I took it for a run.
The genuine ford leak off pipes were  not cheap however 4x genuine washers were only £12 - less than ebay prices.
I doff my cap to those of you that do this for a living - it took me 2-3 hours just to shift the tar. It's not a nice job.
Let's see how long it lasts.

A few on here old enough to remember matchbox superfast and corgi junior twin packs.
This is an autoshite twin pack.

Our mondeo has been well behaved however of late a raspy sound and a smell in the cabin convinced me the exhaust had a leak. This turned out not to be the case. The 2.0 pug engine has two covers - the rearmost covers the injectors. Some dampness on the outside persuaded me to investigate further.

 
 
Oh dear. Only when I pulled the injector did I appreciate how grim it was. I ordered a puller from ebay rather than faff with pliers and pry bars.

Quite a substantial slide hammer - a few blows saw the injector loose. Access - the injectors and fuel rail are effectively in a box - is limited.

Grim. I could not belive the amount of shite that had built up. Very mercedes benz like. And the smell is gopping. Somebody said it was like cooked meat - sorry but if your meat smells like this I hope you have more than one bog.
I made the mistake of spraying carb cleaner on it. All this did was make it soft and even more of a pain to remove. A selection of flat screwdrivers and picks - aided by compressed air and henry the hoover - got rid of the shite and I was happy when I could see dull silver.

The injector was equally shocking and looked like a turd.

A combination of carb cleaner and wire brush in a drill got rid of the baked on crud.
The washer was utterly mullered - eroded on one side.

 
Indeed there was so much crud paranoia set in - I had a vacuum and compressed air and I found myself cranking the engine every so often just to clear the injector orifice.
Paranoia extended to the hole for the injector clamp screw. I had started to put it back but it was harder going than I would have liked so I stopped and wound it out.
I chased the hole out with an M8 x 1.25 tap.

Lack of access meant a pair of thin nosed pliers were the only thing I had that would fit. The tar that I had removed with carb cleaner had solidified inside the hole. More carb cleaner rags and compressed air got rid of the last. Eventually I put everything back after cutting a new seat.

I had to spend £80 on a new set of leak off pipes. Top tip - DO NOT pull back the green lug you can see - on old pipes it will snap - internet vids will show you how NOT to do it. Just get a small flat screwdriver and lever the nearest part of the green clip from the injector body.
Just as I tried to start the car it cranked once - and stopped. I shat myself - I was worried I had hydro locked the engine with carb cleaner even though I had been careful. It turns out the battery was dead.
A jump from a good battery and the car started almost immediately - my chef's kiss was short lived when the car died and wife unit pointed out diesel was pissing everywhere.
I had been caught out. The metal pipe from fuel rail to injector can be fitted the WRONG way around - they are the same pitch of thread but the fittings have a different taper. Fortunately I soon spotted my balls up and swapped it around.
I have also discovered that diesel is brilliant for making underbonnet plastic shine - every cloud etc.
Car started ok off a slave battery and I took it for a run.
The genuine ford leak off pipes were  not cheap however 4x genuine washers were only £12 - less than ebay prices.
I doff my cap to those of you that do this for a living - it took me 2-3 hours just to shift the tar. It's not a nice job.
Let's see how long it lasts.

Our mondeo has been well behaved however of late a raspy sound and a smell in the cabin convinced me the exhaust had a leak. This turned out not to be the case. The 2.0 pug engine has two covers - the rearmost covers the injectors. Some dampness on the outside persuaded me to investigate further.

 
 
Oh dear. Only when I pulled the injector did I appreciate how grim it was. I ordered a puller from ebay rather than faff with pliers and pry bars.

Quite a substantial slide hammer - a few blows saw the injector loose. Access - the injectors and fuel rail are effectively in a box - is limited.

Grim. I could not belive the amount of shite that had built up. Very mercedes benz like. And the smell is gopping. Somebody said it was like cooked meat - sorry but if your meat smells like this I hope you have more than one bog.
I made the mistake of spraying carb cleaner on it. All this did was make it soft and even more of a pain to remove. A selection of flat screwdrivers and picks - aided by compressed air and henry the hoover - got rid of the shite and I was happy when I could see dull silver.

The injector was equally shocking and looked like a turd.

A combination of carb cleaner and wire brush in a drill got rid of the baked on crud.
The washer was utterly mullered - eroded on one side.

 
Indeed there was so much crud paranoia set in - I had a vacuum and compressed air and I found myself cranking the engine every so often just to clear the injector orifice.
Paranoia extended to the hole for the injector clamp screw. I had started to put it back but it was harder going than I would have liked so I stopped and wound it out.
I chased the hole out with an M8 x 1.25 tap.

Lack of access meant a pair of thin nosed pliers were the only thing I had that would fit. The tar that I had removed with carb cleaner had solidified inside the hole. More carb cleaner rags and compressed air got rid of the last. Eventually I put everything back after cutting a new seat.

I had to spend £80 on a new set of leak off pipes. Top tip - DO NOT pull back the green lug you can see - on old pipes it will snap - internet vids will show you how NOT to do it. Just get a small flat screwdriver and lever the nearest part of the green clip from the injector body.
Just as I tried to start the car it cranked once - and stopped. I shat myself - I was worried I had hydro locked the engine with carb cleaner even though I had been careful. It turns out the battery was dead.
A jump from a good battery and the car started almost immediately - my chef's kiss was short lived when the car died and wife unit pointed out diesel was pissing everywhere.
I had been caught out. The metal pipe from fuel rail to injector can be fitted the WRONG way around - they are the same pitch of thread but the fittings have a different taper. Fortunately I soon spotted my balls up and swapped it around.
I have also discovered that diesel is brilliant for making underbonnet plastic shine - every cloud etc.
Car started ok off a slave battery and I took it for a run.
The genuine ford leak off pipes were  not cheap however 4x genuine washers were only £12 - less than ebay prices.
I doff my cap to those of you that do this for a living - it took me 2-3 hours just to shift the tar. It's not a nice job.
Let's see how long it lasts.

Well done Bren. 
 
That doesn’t sounds like it was fun at all 

Leaking injectors aren’t that common on those to be fair. Top tip, stuff a bit of rag in the hole before you start digging all the shit round the injector clamps out. 

well done..

Our mondeo has been well behaved however of late a raspy sound and a smell in the cabin convinced me the exhaust had a leak. This turned out not to be the case. The 2.0 pug engine has two covers - the rearmost covers the injectors. Some dampness on the outside persuaded me to investigate further.

 
 
Oh dear. Only when I pulled the injector did I appreciate how grim it was. I ordered a puller from ebay rather than faff with pliers and pry bars.

Quite a substantial slide hammer - a few blows saw the injector loose. Access - the injectors and fuel rail are effectively in a box - is limited.

Grim. I could not belive the amount of shite that had built up. Very mercedes benz like. And the smell is gopping. Somebody said it was like cooked meat - sorry but if your meat smells like this I hope you have more than one bog.
I made the mistake of spraying carb cleaner on it. All this did was make it soft and even more of a pain to remove. A selection of flat screwdrivers and picks - aided by compressed air and henry the hoover - got rid of the shite and I was happy when I could see dull silver.

The injector was equally shocking and looked like a turd.

A combination of carb cleaner and wire brush in a drill got rid of the baked on crud.
The washer was utterly mullered - eroded on one side.

 
Indeed there was so much crud paranoia set in - I had a vacuum and compressed air and I found myself cranking the engine every so often just to clear the injector orifice.
Paranoia extended to the hole for the injector clamp screw. I had started to put it back but it was harder going than I would have liked so I stopped and wound it out.
I chased the hole out with an M8 x 1.25 tap.

Lack of access meant a pair of thin nosed pliers were the only thing I had that would fit. The tar that I had removed with carb cleaner had solidified inside the hole. More carb cleaner rags and compressed air got rid of the last. Eventually I put everything back after cutting a new seat.

I had to spend £80 on a new set of leak off pipes. Top tip - DO NOT pull back the green lug you can see - on old pipes it will snap - internet vids will show you how NOT to do it. Just get a small flat screwdriver and lever the nearest part of the green clip from the injector body.
Just as I tried to start the car it cranked once - and stopped. I shat myself - I was worried I had hydro locked the engine with carb cleaner even though I had been careful. It turns out the battery was dead.
A jump from a good battery and the car started almost immediately - my chef's kiss was short lived when the car died and wife unit pointed out diesel was pissing everywhere.
I had been caught out. The metal pipe from fuel rail to injector can be fitted the WRONG way around - they are the same pitch of thread but the fittings have a different taper. Fortunately I soon spotted my balls up and swapped it around.
I have also discovered that diesel is brilliant for making underbonnet plastic shine - every cloud etc.
Car started ok off a slave battery and I took it for a run.
The genuine ford leak off pipes were  not cheap however 4x genuine washers were only £12 - less than ebay prices.
I doff my cap to those of you that do this for a living - it took me 2-3 hours just to shift the tar. It's not a nice job.
Let's see how long it lasts.

Our mondeo has been well behaved however of late a raspy sound and a smell in the cabin convinced me the exhaust had a leak. This turned out not to be the case. The 2.0 pug engine has two covers - the rearmost covers the injectors. Some dampness on the outside persuaded me to investigate further.

 
 
Oh dear. Only when I pulled the injector did I appreciate how grim it was. I ordered a puller from ebay rather than faff with pliers and pry bars.

Quite a substantial slide hammer - a few blows saw the injector loose. Access - the injectors and fuel rail are effectively in a box - is limited.

Grim. I could not belive the amount of shite that had built up. Very mercedes benz like. And the smell is gopping. Somebody said it was like cooked meat - sorry but if your meat smells like this I hope you have more than one bog.
I made the mistake of spraying carb cleaner on it. All this did was make it soft and even more of a pain to remove. A selection of flat screwdrivers and picks - aided by compressed air and henry the hoover - got rid of the shite and I was happy when I could see dull silver.

The injector was equally shocking and looked like a turd.

A combination of carb cleaner and wire brush in a drill got rid of the baked on crud.
The washer was utterly mullered - eroded on one side.

 
Indeed there was so much crud paranoia set in - I had a vacuum and compressed air and I found myself cranking the engine every so often just to clear the injector orifice.
Paranoia extended to the hole for the injector clamp screw. I had started to put it back but it was harder going than I would have liked so I stopped and wound it out.
I chased the hole out with an M8 x 1.25 tap.

Lack of access meant a pair of thin nosed pliers were the only thing I had that would fit. The tar that I had removed with carb cleaner had solidified inside the hole. More carb cleaner rags and compressed air got rid of the last. Eventually I put everything back after cutting a new seat.

I had to spend £80 on a new set of leak off pipes. Top tip - DO NOT pull back the green lug you can see - on old pipes it will snap - internet vids will show you how NOT to do it. Just get a small flat screwdriver and lever the nearest part of the green clip from the injector body.
Just as I tried to start the car it cranked once - and stopped. I shat myself - I was worried I had hydro locked the engine with carb cleaner even though I had been careful. It turns out the battery was dead.
A jump from a good battery and the car started almost immediately - my chef's kiss was short lived when the car died and wife unit pointed out diesel was pissing everywhere.
I had been caught out. The metal pipe from fuel rail to injector can be fitted the WRONG way around - they are the same pitch of thread but the fittings have a different taper. Fortunately I soon spotted my balls up and swapped it around.
I have also discovered that diesel is brilliant for making underbonnet plastic shine - every cloud etc.
Car started ok off a slave battery and I took it for a run.
The genuine ford leak off pipes were  not cheap however 4x genuine washers were only £12 - less than ebay prices.
I doff my cap to those of you that do this for a living - it took me 2-3 hours just to shift the tar. It's not a nice job.
Let's see how long it lasts.

Our mondeo has been well behaved however of late a raspy sound and a smell in the cabin convinced me the exhaust had a leak. This turned out not to be the case. The 2.0 pug engine has two covers - the rearmost covers the injectors. Some dampness on the outside persuaded me to investigate further.

 
 
Oh dear. Only when I pulled the injector did I appreciate how grim it was. I ordered a puller from ebay rather than faff with pliers and pry bars.

Quite a substantial slide hammer - a few blows saw the injector loose. Access - the injectors and fuel rail are effectively in a box - is limited.

Grim. I could not belive the amount of shite that had built up. Very mercedes benz like. And the smell is gopping. Somebody said it was like cooked meat - sorry but if your meat smells like this I hope you have more than one bog.
I made the mistake of spraying carb cleaner on it. All this did was make it soft and even more of a pain to remove. A selection of flat screwdrivers and picks - aided by compressed air and henry the hoover - got rid of the shite and I was happy when I could see dull silver.

The injector was equally shocking and looked like a turd.

A combination of carb cleaner and wire brush in a drill got rid of the baked on crud.
The washer was utterly mullered - eroded on one side.

 
Indeed there was so much crud paranoia set in - I had a vacuum and compressed air and I found myself cranking the engine every so often just to clear the injector orifice.
Paranoia extended to the hole for the injector clamp screw. I had started to put it back but it was harder going than I would have liked so I stopped and wound it out.
I chased the hole out with an M8 x 1.25 tap.

Lack of access meant a pair of thin nosed pliers were the only thing I had that would fit. The tar that I had removed with carb cleaner had solidified inside the hole. More carb cleaner rags and compressed air got rid of the last. Eventually I put everything back after cutting a new seat.

I had to spend £80 on a new set of leak off pipes. Top tip - DO NOT pull back the green lug you can see - on old pipes it will snap - internet vids will show you how NOT to do it. Just get a small flat screwdriver and lever the nearest part of the green clip from the injector body.
Just as I tried to start the car it cranked once - and stopped. I shat myself - I was worried I had hydro locked the engine with carb cleaner even though I had been careful. It turns out the battery was dead.
A jump from a good battery and the car started almost immediately - my chef's kiss was short lived when the car died and wife unit pointed out diesel was pissing everywhere.
I had been caught out. The metal pipe from fuel rail to injector can be fitted the WRONG way around - they are the same pitch of thread but the fittings have a different taper. Fortunately I soon spotted my balls up and swapped it around.
I have also discovered that diesel is brilliant for making underbonnet plastic shine - every cloud etc.
Car started ok off a slave battery and I took it for a run.
The genuine ford leak off pipes were  not cheap however 4x genuine washers were only £12 - less than ebay prices.
I doff my cap to those of you that do this for a living - it took me 2-3 hours just to shift the tar. It's not a nice job.
Let's see how long it lasts.