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dieselnutjob

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    http://pscan.uk

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Rank: Renault 16

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  1. My Jag on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URTG9gV1jSo
  2. Please can someone tell me how the trinary switch system works on the 75 coolant fan? I have a 75 ECU now running on my Freelander 1 (I already got hill descent and traction control working), but the way a Freelander1 ECU controls its cooling fan is totally different. I think that the solution is to convert the Freelander 1 to the 75 trinary switch system but I don't really understand how they work. It has air conditioning so I'll have to do that the 75 way as well.
  3. anyone know of a breakers that specialises in 75s ? I'm after a torque converter but it needs to be from a 1.8 K series auto.
  4. I spent much of today crouched here:- with the engine dangling above my head. Drilling out spot welds:- and peeling back metal. This bit fought me a bit:- I'm nearly ready to start making a replacement bit and start welding it in:-
  5. I love my Jag XJ 2.7 diesel. It's really quick and yet can do 50mpg on a run with just a little restraint. It's supremely comfortable and has all the toys. It can tow a two ton trailer. However I don't think it complies with "peak" car because if one ECU fails, or the battery is a bit weak then all the electronics go nuts, and it's not ULEZ compliant so it' rapidly becoming an ornament instead of a car. For me peak car has electronics, because toys like cruise control, but they should remain discrete and having one fail shouldn't kill the whole car. My 1996 Passat was like that and so was the 2000 806. The smaller Rovers (25/45) were also like that and the last ones are ULEZ compliant so maybe peak car is a Rover 45 unless the last of the last Peugeot 406 was ULEZ compliant.
  6. There is a 604 for sale in Doncaster at the moment:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255673376731
  7. Not sure if this is the right place to leave this:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255673376731
  8. I started looking into rust in the engine bay, which can only be fixed now with the engine out. This is the drivers side "chassis" rail that runs along the bottom of the inner wing. you can see some holes where the metal has become so thin that holes have formed and this is view of the same rail from underneath I also made the mistake of poking at some loose underseal on the wheelarch / splash guard thing
  9. The 604 was used as a goon car in Never Say Never Again
  10. This is a funny read https://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/index.php?threads/604-is-it-the-coolest-euro-ever-made.87074/
  11. I have always liked the look of the Fiat 130 two door coupes, but whilst googling for images of it I found a four door version. wow
  12. I have been chatting on WhatsApp with someone in CPUK and he has convinced my not to worry about the oil galleries. He said the same thing that I was kind of thinking, which is that drilling out galleries should only be done in the context of a total stripdown so that swarf can by properly cleaned out. However I am going to have a go at getting the rocker arms off. On one side the shaft can easily be slid out but on the other I think it has to go either through or past the camshaft drive sprocket and the timing cover definitely has to come off. I just found out that Deloreango has plenty of stock of timing cover gaskets so that settles it.
  13. I posted a question on Aussiefrogs seven years ago about the PRV engine and finally got an answer. The post is here https://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/index.php?threads/prv-v6-top-end-lubrication-mod.113300/ The oil pressure on this engine is maybe a little low, but then equally I was running it on fully synthetic oil (I think 5W40) and it's maybe too thin. Edit: let me clarify. On a normal idle the light doesn't come on. But if the idle is a bit low then the light starts flickering. Normal advice is that these "modern" oils are too thin for a classic, but according to the Renault Alpine folks the PRV engines were actually manufactured to pretty modern tolerances and they think that modern synthetics are good for them. So given how much work it is to get these engines out should I strip it down and check stuff? Or just do the obvious and easy (front and rear oil seals, rocker arms because I have some good ones). If I have to pull the front pulley to change the oil seal (and I do) then I could pretty easily pull off the timing cover and check out the chain and tensioners at the same time. I checked the compression last year and it was good on all six. There's no blue smoke from the exhaust but I can't tell what oil consumption is like because it leaks out of the engine so fast.
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