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About dieselnutjob

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    Rank: Renault 16

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  1. if you buy one you need to do a few checks. apart from normal driving, find a steep hill or ramp and drive down the hill, half way down take your foot off of the accelerator so that the weight of the car is making the engine spin if there are nasty noises from the transmission, walk away. Also make sure that you drive forwards and backwards on full lock. You will notice a little bit of resistance because on full lock the front and back axles are doing slightly different speeds, but if the car is very difficult to move on lock then the viscous coupling is no longer viscous. Also look out for corrosion. SWMBOs one looks okay at a glance but has needed a sill welding and the boot floor is getting bad. Also tailgates get damaged when people reverse into things because the spare wheel hits before the bumper. Make sure that the tailgate window will go up and down okay because that's a common failure. On five door ones the sunroof normally won't open. Best to disable it so that it doesn't get stuck open. The gears always strip.
  2. I have driven a 1.8 petrol, SWMBOs TD4 and a mates V6 automatic. I don't like the clutch in the 1,8, the TD4 has a much nicer clutch, however as standard the are a DMF and the "pull" type release bearing and when the slave cylinder goes (which it will) then it's a gearbox out job. SWMBOs one now has a solid flywheel conversion that I bought on ebay from a guy that bought one for a diesel Rover 75 but never fitted it, and it also has a metal slave cylinder from Poland (might have been Tazu). These were fitted two years ago and have been great. The V6 auto one was nice to drive but obviously juicy. The viscous couplings suffered on the early ones because the front and back axles had slight different ratios which made the coupling work all of the time. From 2001 they fitted the same ratios front and back and this means that the coupling has an easier time. On SWMBOs one the viscous coupling is fine but the bearings that support it have now failed leading to prop shaft vibration. A colleague have a Freelander 2 that ate it's rear Haldex, and this seems to be common and painful. Also the Freelander 1 seems a bit smaller which is better for SWMBO.
  3. SWMBO has a TD4 and loves it. As it was cheap and hasn't caused too much trouble that's alright by me. I think that they're actually quite good around town. They don't care about car park scrapes or speed humps and I have towed a pretty heavy trailer full of concrete blocks and it did well. The traction control is actually quite advanced for offroading and you can buy a cheap diagnostic tool for them, from me. http://pscan.uk/features/freelander1.html
  4. My first car was pre XUD Peugeot 305. a 1978 I think with the 1548cc XID diesel. Very smoky and very slow. I sold it still going with 348,000 miles on the clock. Later on I had a T reg 504 diesel saloon with the 2.3 Indenor into which I transplanted a 5 speed gearbox. That was a fantastic car.
  5. I watched Red Sea Diving Resort on Netflix last night. A good film and also rammed with 70s cars.
  6. People always let the XJ out of side roads etc. Maybe people think I'm the mayor or something.
  7. The XJ has more room in the back for my three teenager/adult kids and the styling is different. Apart from that I don't think that there's a huge different. The XJ is a pain to park because it's absolutely massive. On problem with the X350 is that there isn't enough room under the front seats for rear passengers to slide their feet under them. My 607 had more room in the back. The X358 fixed that by rearranging the seat motors and so I fitted front X358 seats in mine which makes it a lot better in the back for long journeys. It wasn't easy though because I had to fit the looms and ECUs from my X350 seats into the X358 seat frames to get them to integrate with the rest of the car.
  8. and here are some photos showing the boss on the oil pump that the timing belt tensioner bolts to https://www.jaguarforum.com/showthread.php?t=108948&p=1111415&viewfull=1#post1111415 I fitted the later, stronger oil pump to mine when I did the belt but it wasn't easy. On an XJ you have to drop the sump and that means lifting the engine a bit. Also it involves inserting a crank locking pin and that means getting the starter motor out of the way, and that means dropping the steering rack.
  9. There are some photos here https://www.jaguarforum.com/showthread.php?t=103729 that might help if you have to do a rear belt (injection pump), though they are for an XJ by the way the rear pump won't cause engine damage if it fails unlike the front one.
  10. A MEMS 1.9 has a pressed tin lid with a big X stamped into it, and one loom connector. A MEMS2J also has the X but two loom connectors, one black and one red. A MEMS3 is wedge shaped.
  11. The injection pump belt is easy on an XJ. The entire cabin filter box comes out with four bolts and then access to the rear belt is easy. I did mine myself.
  12. I don't think that Jags commonly got the stronger oil pump, it seems to be a Landrover thing. I did it to mine and was a lot of work but I suspect it's most mechanics either over tightening the bolt or putting the wrong bolt back so it bottoms out and busts off the mounting boss. It's very telling that most of the failures were after a belt change.
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