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Everything posted by alf892

  1. alf892 - rover 12 or (shite) vectra depending on whether i get up in time to bring the rover!
  2. Seth........it is an old one in that the typeface is older style but hardback and covers 1962- 1978.
  3. I have been given some manuals to pass on.......if you want one just let me know. 1 x Vectra (95 -01) 2 x Cavalier (88 on) 1 X MG B Hopefully I will be coming to Stondon so could bring with me.
  4. I have one you can borrow but I am in Northants. I could post it??
  5. I have always liked Audis.........only had two though. The first was a 1993 1.9tdi SE. Fantastic thing as we had it 10 years and only ever fitted 1 set of discs, 1 set front shocks and a couple of sets of wishbone bushes with a quick (oil and filters) service every year. Never any trouble. Replaced it with a 2002 1.9tdi A4 estate which we now have 5 years and no issues. I don't like working on modern stuff so this is great for me. Biggest problem with Audi is the fact too many ex BMW drivers now having them leading to reputational issues!
  6. viper engined spitty. amazing engineering.........basically custom build body over (immaculate) home built chassis. also check out the home built running model v8 by same user
  7. I been a bit bored at work lately............On ebay motors if you search on 'non runners' it brings up some good stuff.......at the moment there is a mk2 XRS which looks pretty tidy and a Nova SR. The Nova even runs.All in all there maybe some bargains if you don't mind a bit of work
  8. It might be worth trying P D Gough as they do stainless ones from their own patterns and will post out. wwwpdgough.com or 0115 938 2241
  9. There is one very easy way if you haven't a clue on the marks or if it is one of those nasty ones where you have to set the cams with a dial gauge.With the engine running and belt cover off you hold a stanley knife against the belt and cut the belt in half across it's width. Now you still have the full belt driving everything around but it is in two parts. You then switch off and remove one half of the belt. Then take the new belt and slide it onto the pulleys halfway. Then cut off the remaining half of the old belt and you can slide the belt fully on. If required you can adjust (or replace) the tensioner.Rather than split the belt with the engine running you could do it on the starter but you probably get a more wobbly (therefore riskier) cut.Simples??? took me 20 fooking minutes to type that!! Apologies for duplicate post
  10. Agreed.Got made redundant a couple of weeks ago. No notice, no warning and no wages for previous 4 weeks.The next day I thought best extract finger and get on with finding job so registered with a few agencies. Most are shit by the way.Then a call..........nice job...........money matched previous........lets go for it.Interview arranged. Then was sent a link to do a test!! Thought OK you have to play the game so did test and went along for interview. Interview went well until told this was only first stage of several!More CV's sent...........but those sites where you have to choose sector are doing my head in.......my role exists in loads of sectors and I can't loose the feeling I must be missing stuff.
  11. I had a diesel 80 for 10 years......brilliant piece of kit. The only weak point I found was the front bottom arm bushes did not last long. Replacement is easy and cheap. Also the handbrake can give problems - they have rear discs and the handbrake operates the main pads. The (external) operating lever tends to stick very slightly but eventually you will have no operational travel. Happens more to autos as the handbrake tends to be used less. Plenty of silicon lube around the operating arm when you service it will help stop this happening. Other than that and a battery I had ten years cheap motoring!
  12. A! North closed on Weds morning. I drive up there at about 5am.Howcome they can afford to put a load of truck on the road with pretty flashing lights to tell us the road is closed but can't signpost a diversion???Result is chaos as no fucker knows where to go......and end up following someone in the hope they know a bit more.Not just once either........happens all the time.......these 'incident control units' close the road at the drop of a hat.........rarely is diversion posted.Twunts
  13. +1. Entire ground floor for cars and live upstairs.A few people in our road have converted garage to be another room. Looks horrid too. To my mind this is the wrong way around........one of the main reasons i bought my house was it had a double garage.
  14. Go for something with the VAG 1.9tdi. Strangely the higher power ones are even better on fuel. We had an 80 Tdi with 90bhp for 10 years and it never dropped below 47mpg (brim to brim) whether picking kids up from school of flying up the motorway. Well flying was relative with 90bhp. She now has an a4 estate with the 130 in it and it is superb. More go with equal and sometimes more mpg. Downside it more electric bits though.I had an a6 estate with the 130 as a company car which handled by 200 mile daily commute always around 45mpg. At 4.30 in the morning I never managed to to the 56mph trial........Pug diesels are great without the turbo but bolt a turbo on and actually use the power and they drink fuel. And leak oil. And blow headgaskets.
  15. Too true. Even ford know this is true. Some fleets are getting single mass fitted under warranty. Latest clutches are terrible if the slightest bit of heat build up.........dealers blame the driver. This is increasingly not true....the DMF cannot dissipate heat as well single.
  16. Confirmation.....There is no test that can be done with the gearbox in place. The only diagnostic clue you have are noise really. Most noticeable at idle as a mechanical rattle/clatter and or a ratlle/clatter when you switch the engine off as it comes to a stop.If you want the full tech bulletin if anyone wants it.....very similar applies to all ford dmfs
  17. You can check by attenting to rotate the flywheel........as the DMF is essentially two different parts then will be a small amount of radial play before the whole lot (ie there can be play before the crank will turn) turns. This is measured by the number of teeth represented by the play.Generally though a knackered one will make itself heard. There can be other symtoms including cutting out and erratic running as the timing is thrown out.This made sense when I wrote it.......I hope it does when you read it!Mind you I don't know how you would check this during an MoT as I cannot recall whether there is a removable cover near the flywheel. I will find out tomorrow unless somebody has a better answer by then
  18. About 1994 I bought a mk 2 Cavalier for £50. It had 166k on it and the ends rattled a bit. The body looked awful as the owner had 'touched up' rust spots with dulux. But it was only 7 years old so it seemed like a deal. I stripped the engine and 'rebuilt' it with new big end shells, a quick go over with a honer and new rings. Well two new rings anyway........I couldn't fit the top one as the stop on the bore was horrid and I couldn't get stepped top rings. A quick tidy on the body followed with 1/2 a litre of two pack made it look pretty although I did sweat some cutting the new bits in. I put it in the local paper at £900 and a right fly trader thought he stole it at £700.....total outlay was £200 inc the MoT.
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