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About CIH

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    Rank: Citroen Ami

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    Hemel Hempstead

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  1. CIH

    ebay 'BARGAINS'

    Seeing all those nothing motors with massive mark-ups reminds me of an white Opel Manta GTE Hatch back in ~1999 that was on a forecourt in Glossop @ £2.5k for several years. Probably still is. They barely made £500 back then.
  2. The bulkhead can crack around where the steering passes through on it's way to the rack. It'll feel like the trackings out or a bad ball joint ie; tramlining. You will be able to see if you look down at the bulkhead in the engine bay while someone moves the steering wheel side to side. GM issued a repair section but refused to treat it as a warranty issue.
  3. No my point was mnissed but I really can't be arsed with another pointless debate with people I don't care about so didn't bother to retort. Bol is right this place is just shit (not shite) nowadays. edit: actually I only come on here for the ebay tat thread but people keep spamming it with barry-boys style "modded" motors.
  4. No they haven't, but tyres are wider and have lower profiles so are more sensitive to camber changes than narrow tyres with large squashy sidewalls that also soak up lots of road imperfections. So a stiff sidewalled lower profile (i.e 205/40/16) tyre will show the effect of a smaller amount of camber than, for example a 205/16. Also, if you do 80 mph, on for example an autobahn, all day with 0.5 degree of negative camber the inside edges of the tyre will be subjected to more load and wear than the outside edges. Even with multiple compound tyres the inner edges will be taking more punishment than the outer edges. A harder compound on the inner edges will hide some of the effect but no matter what you do if you're running any camber at all in a straight line you're gonna cause uneven wear. Then there's the matters of toe, kingpin inclination, Ackerman angles, MacPherson struts and all the complications they bring. Any tyre scrub at all brings with it wear. Keeping that wear spread completely evenly across the whole tyre contact patch at all times in all circumstances isn't as easy as CIH suggests. If it's a case of handling, balance, packaging, weight distribution and grip versus tyre wear. How many pages can we get out of the fact Zafiras knacker tyres? Prace bets now. Given the choice between tyre wear and getting two more seats in or a quicker time around the Nurburgring to use in an ad they'll sacrifice the inner edges. Sorry dude but that's just not the case. Omegas run from stock, at the front, negative 1 degree 40 minutes camber and they nail tyres. We set them to 1 degree ten and they don't. IS200s run negative 20 minutes OEM and they destroy tyres. We set them to -10 and they don't. MX5s run upto about -15 OEM and they don't (usually) wear tyres unevenly. We lower them, set them to -50 and they still don't wear tyres unevenly. Drift 200SX with coilovers run over 3 degrees negative camber and don't necessarily see uneven wear.
  5. I'd be more worried about the rampant sill and strut-top rot hidden behind bodykit and boot trim. t
  6. When I was insured with them last year if the car were parked outside between the hours of 1am and 6am (IIRC), within 1 mile of either home address or garage address, any loss from theft wasn't covered. My cars have never been worth a great deal so it wasn't always garaged.
  7. Ok. please explain to me how a car that runs even a degree of negative camber won't wear the inside edge more than the outside edge when driven in a straight line. The laws of physics haven't changed in the last 40 years have they? No but suspension design has changed. I'll try to explain without too much waffle. Negative Camber deforms the tyre, making the inner sidewall smaller than the outer. Too much camber and the sidewall can't deform, making the tyre ride the inside edge. Enough camber, usually >6 degrees, actually physically lifts the outside edge. Camber is necessary for two reasons; 1) When a car rolls into a corner the wheel rolls over with it, moving toward positive camber. Modern cars are designed to fight the tendency by pusing the wheel progressivly negative, moving through an arc. Obviously it can only go so far and if the car is chucked in too hard it'll still roll over and understeer. That's also why lowered cars natually see more negative camber, sometimes too much. 2) The other thing camber has to deal with is the steering. During a right turn the outer wheel (leftside, laden) goes to negative camber and the inner wheel (rightside, unladen) goes positive. The positive isn't desireable but is necessary to get the negative camber when turned the other way. Racing cars, drifters especially, runs lost of front camber to try and negative the positive gains as much as possibile. If the wheel is too positive (or not negative enough) while dead ahead it will roll too far during corners, especially left wheels on RHD as a left turn is usually tighter than right, wearing the outside edge. This applies to vans and 4x4 too. We usually set Landcruisers to zero camber, as apposed to half degree positive, as they usually wear the outside edges.
  8. A lot of cars use a degree or two of negative camber on the front wheels (which wears tyres on the inside edge). Lots of high performance RWD stuff is set up with negative camber and a touch of toe at the rear as well. A whole load of cars use toe in / out which wears tyres at the edges. Uneven tyre wear is unavoidable on pretty much anything that doesn't run zero toe, zero camber and beam axles. Sorry dude but that's completley wrong. The geometry is set to a very specific and deliberate position. Granted that was probably true 40 years ago.
  9. If it's doing the inside edges then it clearly does have an alignment issue, regardless of what the spec says. Some cars are designed with a fair bit of toe and/or camber to improve handling at the expense of tyre wear. If some cars are set up properly they'll knacker the inner edges more quickly because that's the trade off for the handling. Scorpio 24vs wear the inner edges on the rears because of it, as do quite a few quick BMWs and Mercedes, Sapphire Cosworths etc. It's compromise. Handling, stability, feel and balance are all highly affected to both geometry and tyres. I've found it to be quite unusual to see tyres that when worn down to the legal limit are worn completely evenly right across the tread. More often than not the centre of the tyre will have 2mm and either one or both edges will be more worn. No manufacturer would purposely design-in uneven tyre wear in favour of "handling".
  10. CIH

    Ask a Shiter

    Break the beads, pop the valve out from the whole in the wheel (just push it back into the tyre) then yank the tube out. Refitting is the reverse of removal but leave the valve core out untill it's all mounted and sweet and it'll be much easier if you have a valve puller to hold the valve so it doesn't keep poping back into the tyre.
  11. If it's doing the inside edges then it clearly does have an alignment issue, regardless of what the spec says.
  12. As a whole I wouldn't say GM cars are so bad on tyres specifically. C-Max will scoff a pair of Contis in 10,000 miles. I would say BMW, Sport model 3 series especially, are by farthe worst. Too much camber by design and runflat tyres means massive wear on the extreme inside edge. I've seen cars where the whole tyre carcus has completley collapsed. Granted people don't generally check their tyres but who's going to roll under their car to check the inner shoulder ?
  13. I think BolX linked to this a little while ago but I just noticed it's probably about 8 miles away so may be worth a look. Granted it's an Audi and not an estate which makes me dislike it already......but it is cheap.....
  14. That Manta looks immense. Hope it isn't relisted in a few weeks with no engine or 'box....
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