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danthecapriman

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  1. Like
    danthecapriman reacted to Datsuncog in Lazy spotters thread   
    A fine spot from MrsDC - this mildly modded Chevette, seen at a distance in Homebase's car park.

    Pretty sure I've seen this one around before, a late example on an A-prefix plate - but  if so, the Minilite-style wheels are a new addition.
  2. Like
    danthecapriman got a reaction from busmansholiday in Project Capri. Runner! & Driver! pg.46.   
    Here’s a few pics of the stuff I was on about in the last post.
    Bonnet latch/spring which was an absolute arse to fit.

    New and old bonnet latch. Old one worked ok but looked awful!


    Been waiting for a couple of bits and doing a few odd jobs around the car in the meantime. One of which was to use some clear Dynax UB wax on the inside of the stainless centre caps for the wheels.

    3 of these are new old stock items and I selected the best one from my original four to make up numbers. The wax is to try and stop the sprung clips on the inside from rusting and breaking. Might be a bit over the top but do it right!
     
    Here’s a crappy pic of the sill carpet, stainless sill step trim and replacement footwell kick panel all fitted.

     
    Im still having trouble with the new door seals. Passenger side one has relaxed significantly since last time, and moulded to shape really well with the door being closed on it. It’s still pushing against the door but you don’t have to slam it nearly so hard to fully close it now so hopefully it’ll sort itself out in time. 
    Drivers door seal is still a bitch! It’s incredibly hard to shut the door fully and you can hear the air being forced out of the gap in the rubber when you try, it’s that tight. 
    I’ve re-aligned the door and striker a touch so it closes better and lines up better now but I’m hoping it just needs the door leaving closed on the seal for a few weeks to flatten it and shape it. I don’t know if there’s anything apart from that you can do with the seals? Maybe a light coating of vasaline or something might help make it a bit softer and more supple?? 
     

    The fuel door is open as I was filling the void in the hinge with cavity wax. They have a tendency to rust from inside out if you don’t. Also did the bonnet leading edge while I was at it.
     
    While messing around with the bonnet, I wasn’t happy with the release handles operation. It worked, but felt very slack and loose. Turned out I was missing a tiny clamp which holds the cable outer sheath still while the cable is pulled. Without it the whole cable moves around and you loose that firm ‘pull’. I can’t remember this car having this clip while I’ve had it tbh, but it’s got one now! It’s been cleaned up, painted silver and fits under the slam panel where nobody will ever see it to appreciate my fantastic paint job!



    Im almost done now, it’s just the door seals causing problems that’s slowing things down. I’m pretty certain you won’t be able to close the drivers door fully properly from inside the car the way it is now. Obviously that doesn’t help if you want to drive it! 
    I need to bleed the brakes again too, I’m pretty sure there’s a bit of air still in the system somewhere.
    Im also installing lights and sockets to the garage next week. Shouldn’t be hard but takes time away from working on the car itself.
     
    Edit: 
    Heres the grill badge after the touch up with silver permanent marker! Brilliant idea that was captain 70’s!

  3. Like
    danthecapriman reacted to eddyramrod in Life of Shite   
    (Months later...)  Yeah I have, haven't I?  I do like variety, always have.  Unfortunately as the old cars get older, it gets harder to find something "different."  Or at least, makes finding them more expensive. And, thank you everyone for the comments on here.  It's nice to think someone is enjoying my words.
     
  4. Thanks
    danthecapriman got a reaction from juular in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Chopathon - Weldathon. Knocking lumps out of it.   
    Fantastic work on this.
    It certainly does make restoring or repairing things harder after someone has been fucking about and done a crap job. Far better if it’d just been left with rusty holes! At least your not having to undo someone else’s bodgery and then still deal with the the rust!
  5. Like
    danthecapriman reacted to rob88h in Harrison's Garage - That'll be the Daewoo   
    The Mini did a meagre 1,775 miles last year. I’d like it to surpass 2000 this year, but it’s a real grotbag and sounds like shit.
    Circumstance means I’m not ready to take it off the road - I know that if I start tearing into it, it’ll probably not see the road for a good long while. 
    So armed with a target to stop it festering, and enough enthusiasm to keep it going in short bursts I tried to do something positive for it. 

    New plugs and an attempt on setting the valve clearances. Didn’t work. Still a rattly bastard.

  6. Like
    danthecapriman reacted to Dyslexic Viking in Norwegian tat (cars for sale in Norway)   
    1968 Austin Gipsy 3400 pounds






    https://www.finn.no/car/used/ad.html?finnkode=273805194
  7. Like
    danthecapriman reacted to Dyslexic Viking in 1963 Mercedes Benz 190DC Fintail.   
    Got a bit done on this today too. Got oil topped up on the main fuel pump and as I suspected, it lacked oil. Then I looked at the large oil leak at the front of the engine. And this one is weird, oil runs out of this hole while the engine is running.

    And after cleaning it looks like this. The round part does not appear to be part of the timing cover but the hole in it has m6 threads. So could it be that there has been a bolt here that may have fallen out?

    I've tried to screw in a bolt here but only get it in about 5mm and I'm afraid to screw in something that might be too long as the timing chain lives there so I'm afraid a bolt will hit something. But I have cut a bolt to a short length that I can screw all the way in so should just fit it and see what happens?
    I have also bought a turn signal relay, the new ones that a Mercedes specialist sells are made of plastic, but I found this below which is a nos part so I bought it. Let's just hope I get it quickly as I want to drive the car before it has to be parked before the winter.

  8. Like
    danthecapriman reacted to juular in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Chopathon - Weldathon. Knocking lumps out of it.   
    This week, I are been mostly eating, iron oxide.
    Chassis rail nearly done.  Had to cut a bit more out as there was a thin spot near the drain hole, so will need to finish that off later.
    I think I will grind flat the welds on the sides, touch up any holes or thin spots, and then weld some fishplates over the rails at this location, just to be sure.

    Sills.
    Poked with screwdriver.
    😬😬 😬😬  😬😬  😬😬  😬😬  😬😬  😬😬  😬😬  😬😬  😬😬  😬😬  😬😬  😬😬  😬😬 

    Not really sure what's happened here. A lot of the structure - and I say structure loosely -  definitely isn't factory. There's bathroom sealant, random bits of filler, occasional bits of galv plate stuck on with mastic, all applied over lots of rust of course.
    Looking from the inside out, there's also something a bit weird going on with the inner sill.  These big round holes are meant to be open, presumably as access for cavity waxing or whatever.  The whole thing is a lot thicker than it should be anyway. The factory inner sills are presumably 1-1.2mm thick, but measured here at it's thinnest point it's around 6mm so there's some weird shit happening.

    Looking at the seam, there's extra layers and they've not been plug/ spotwelded, they've been tacked in across the top.

    Um... I'll come back to this.

    Fingers in ears. Whistling.

    Cut the outer sill off. The bottom half of the sill is scrap, but I could maybe save the top part and rebuilt the lower bits. Sills aren't cheap for this car.


    I then cut off the front section of the mid-sill to see what I was dealing with inside.
    Thoughts and prayers, please.

    Again, top half of the mid-sill (seen on the right here) is OK, lower half should be simple to replace.

    Interestingly, both outer and mid sill still had remnants of Klokkerholm stickers on them. You have to wonder why, if this car has had replacement panels, they have rotted so badly along the lower seam? 
    This will be why.
    At some point the inner sill was presumably a bit rotten on the lower half, so instead of doing a fairly simple repair of letting new metal into the bottom of it, they have welded on a plate of 2mm steel the full length of the car, right on top of the rust.  

    As you can see above the replacement plate hadn't even been painted at all, so it just quietly rotted itself and the new repair panels from the inside out.
    The rotten inner sill had been left in place, not even a single bit of the original rust has been cut off. It's had sealant of some sort smeared along its length to hide the rust. It's a LOT of effort to go to, to avoid a really simple repair job. 
    As you can see here with that plate hacked off, the inner sill wasn't even that bad to begin with. With a quick wire brush it looks pretty good save for the area that extends below the floor.  Why didn't they weld that plate along the bottom of the sill since everything would have been apart anyway?

    So the plan here is to chop out the bottom half of that inner sill and all of the floor that connects to it, then build it back up with new metal.
    All of this is only up to the B-pillar, so I'll have to rip the back end of the sill apart and presumably do all the same there.
    Once that's done I'll either repair the mid-sill and outer and weld them back on, or swallow the cost and buy replacement panels.
    It will all be zinc coated in between the layers, and then a shit-tonne of cavity wax will be pumped into it. It won't rust again for a long time.
  9. Like
    danthecapriman got a reaction from Shite Ron in Project Capri. Runner! & Driver! pg.46.   
    I’m afraid I’m going to rip the arm rest/door handle off the inside of the door when trying to close them from inside!😆 
    Its ridiculous how much you have to slam them or force them to close. Breaking the window is the other worry.
    Ill definitely stick the badges on I think. I’m glad you lot have said the same, confirms it for me! I think drilling holes is asking for trouble long term. Fingers crossed I don’t screw up the decal for the ‘II’ logo. Although I think I do have two, just in case.
  10. Like
    danthecapriman reacted to juular in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Chopathon - Weldathon. Knocking lumps out of it.   
    A few more bits ticked off.

    Behind the dash - rot cut out.

    Bits made.

    Welded in.

    I went round the chassis rails at the front with the sharp end of a claw hammer. Anything that deflected, holed, or didn't sound right was chopped off.

    There's a lot of surface rust on this car, but it hasn't really eaten much out of the metal overall, as it's still quite thick when measured with digital calipers.
    Replaced with 2mm steel.  I'm not happy with the welding here. I had a bit of an issue with wire feed as I got to the end of the current spool, so I had to go over the whole lot again on a much higher voltage. It's ugly.

    I do intend to go over that with a grinder and then check for holes, there will probably be quite a few needing filled in.
    Next, onto the passenger side.  The outrigger here was mostly ok but the end was grotty, so that got removed.

    Laid over part of my repair panel, then cut through both at the same time.

    Seam and plug welded. This gasless isn't neat, but it does the job.

     
    The passenger side rail also got attacked with the hammer and grinder.  I think the main issue with these is that there's no drain holes at the point where the water runs down inside

    In the process of being built back up.


    I've got the replacement lower section ready to go in, but it started pissing down.  Will finish that midweek probably.
    Then it's on to the inner sills, which look absolutely humped.
  11. Like
    danthecapriman reacted to juular in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Chopathon - Weldathon. Knocking lumps out of it.   
    Continued from where I left off with the offside floor.
    I cut open the tops of the chassis rails, then derusted, treated and painted the insides. There was a lot of crap inside but otherwise they're largely solid and will only need a few patches on the lower sections.

     

    Next, those got stitched back up and replacement sections were made, piece by piece.



    That final section is plug welded to the front cowl panel.

    I then had to find a way of pressing the new floor down onto the outrigger so that it could be plug welded in place.  A small scissor jack against the angle iron bracing was just right for this.

     
    Almost done. The indented sections of floor will be replicated with a hammer and dolly when I get around to it.  I've also left a bit clear of the sills as that area is still rotten and needs removed.

    I'm getting on quite well with this 0.6mm gasless wire. I think I've found the sweet spot on the settings for running this and it just works without issue. I've ordered a few more rolls of it, since taking the gas out of the equation has helped me just get on with things regardless of the weather.
    For bodywork I think I'll still use the argon and solid wire as it's much neater.
    I also pulled the dashboard out as I kept headbutting the steering column whilst trying to do the floor.

    This highlighted a couple of other bits that are going to need patched up.  This does give me a chance to get in behind the bulkhead and paint / cavity wax it before it becomes inaccessible again.


     
     
     
  12. Like
    danthecapriman reacted to mat_the_cat in Project Capri. Runner! & Driver! pg.46.   
    I would be sticking badges on too!
    I fitted all new seals after the Stellar respray, carefully matching up all the dimensions. Exactly the same problem, having to properly slam all the doors to get them to fully shut. For the driver's and front passenger doors I actually replaced the seals with one a tad smaller, to get easily closable doors. The other doors I've left (as they see little use) and the have got easier to close, although still more of a slam than I'd like. My main worry with the front passenger door was when giving anyone a lift - they would shut the door normally and get it partly latching. "You have to close it a bit more firmly" I would say, at which point they would slam it so hard I feared the glass would shatter!
  13. Like
    danthecapriman got a reaction from Mr Laurence in Project Capri. Runner! & Driver! pg.46.   
    Here’s a few pics of the stuff I was on about in the last post.
    Bonnet latch/spring which was an absolute arse to fit.

    New and old bonnet latch. Old one worked ok but looked awful!


    Been waiting for a couple of bits and doing a few odd jobs around the car in the meantime. One of which was to use some clear Dynax UB wax on the inside of the stainless centre caps for the wheels.

    3 of these are new old stock items and I selected the best one from my original four to make up numbers. The wax is to try and stop the sprung clips on the inside from rusting and breaking. Might be a bit over the top but do it right!
     
    Here’s a crappy pic of the sill carpet, stainless sill step trim and replacement footwell kick panel all fitted.

     
    Im still having trouble with the new door seals. Passenger side one has relaxed significantly since last time, and moulded to shape really well with the door being closed on it. It’s still pushing against the door but you don’t have to slam it nearly so hard to fully close it now so hopefully it’ll sort itself out in time. 
    Drivers door seal is still a bitch! It’s incredibly hard to shut the door fully and you can hear the air being forced out of the gap in the rubber when you try, it’s that tight. 
    I’ve re-aligned the door and striker a touch so it closes better and lines up better now but I’m hoping it just needs the door leaving closed on the seal for a few weeks to flatten it and shape it. I don’t know if there’s anything apart from that you can do with the seals? Maybe a light coating of vasaline or something might help make it a bit softer and more supple?? 
     

    The fuel door is open as I was filling the void in the hinge with cavity wax. They have a tendency to rust from inside out if you don’t. Also did the bonnet leading edge while I was at it.
     
    While messing around with the bonnet, I wasn’t happy with the release handles operation. It worked, but felt very slack and loose. Turned out I was missing a tiny clamp which holds the cable outer sheath still while the cable is pulled. Without it the whole cable moves around and you loose that firm ‘pull’. I can’t remember this car having this clip while I’ve had it tbh, but it’s got one now! It’s been cleaned up, painted silver and fits under the slam panel where nobody will ever see it to appreciate my fantastic paint job!



    Im almost done now, it’s just the door seals causing problems that’s slowing things down. I’m pretty certain you won’t be able to close the drivers door fully properly from inside the car the way it is now. Obviously that doesn’t help if you want to drive it! 
    I need to bleed the brakes again too, I’m pretty sure there’s a bit of air still in the system somewhere.
    Im also installing lights and sockets to the garage next week. Shouldn’t be hard but takes time away from working on the car itself.
     
    Edit: 
    Heres the grill badge after the touch up with silver permanent marker! Brilliant idea that was captain 70’s!

  14. Like
    danthecapriman got a reaction from Shite Ron in Project Capri. Runner! & Driver! pg.46.   
    I’m leaning towards sticking the badges. As said, later cars had stuck badges anyway, and, yes, drilling all the holes perfectly in line in the exact right places without a template would be an awful job. Even worse if I screw it up!
    Theres the FORD letters for the boot lid, ‘Capri’ badge which goes on top of the Roman numeral ‘II’ sticker and the old style ‘L’ badge. 
    Then a pair of 1600 wing shields for the front wings. 
    That’s a lot of holes to drill.
    Interesting. Glad it’s not just me having the problem at least. 
    I’ve just ordered some of that gummi pfledge stuff. Never heard of it before but sounds well worth a go.
    Cheers chaps!
  15. Like
    danthecapriman got a reaction from Datsuncog in Project Capri. Runner! & Driver! pg.46.   
    Here’s a few pics of the stuff I was on about in the last post.
    Bonnet latch/spring which was an absolute arse to fit.

    New and old bonnet latch. Old one worked ok but looked awful!


    Been waiting for a couple of bits and doing a few odd jobs around the car in the meantime. One of which was to use some clear Dynax UB wax on the inside of the stainless centre caps for the wheels.

    3 of these are new old stock items and I selected the best one from my original four to make up numbers. The wax is to try and stop the sprung clips on the inside from rusting and breaking. Might be a bit over the top but do it right!
     
    Here’s a crappy pic of the sill carpet, stainless sill step trim and replacement footwell kick panel all fitted.

     
    Im still having trouble with the new door seals. Passenger side one has relaxed significantly since last time, and moulded to shape really well with the door being closed on it. It’s still pushing against the door but you don’t have to slam it nearly so hard to fully close it now so hopefully it’ll sort itself out in time. 
    Drivers door seal is still a bitch! It’s incredibly hard to shut the door fully and you can hear the air being forced out of the gap in the rubber when you try, it’s that tight. 
    I’ve re-aligned the door and striker a touch so it closes better and lines up better now but I’m hoping it just needs the door leaving closed on the seal for a few weeks to flatten it and shape it. I don’t know if there’s anything apart from that you can do with the seals? Maybe a light coating of vasaline or something might help make it a bit softer and more supple?? 
     

    The fuel door is open as I was filling the void in the hinge with cavity wax. They have a tendency to rust from inside out if you don’t. Also did the bonnet leading edge while I was at it.
     
    While messing around with the bonnet, I wasn’t happy with the release handles operation. It worked, but felt very slack and loose. Turned out I was missing a tiny clamp which holds the cable outer sheath still while the cable is pulled. Without it the whole cable moves around and you loose that firm ‘pull’. I can’t remember this car having this clip while I’ve had it tbh, but it’s got one now! It’s been cleaned up, painted silver and fits under the slam panel where nobody will ever see it to appreciate my fantastic paint job!



    Im almost done now, it’s just the door seals causing problems that’s slowing things down. I’m pretty certain you won’t be able to close the drivers door fully properly from inside the car the way it is now. Obviously that doesn’t help if you want to drive it! 
    I need to bleed the brakes again too, I’m pretty sure there’s a bit of air still in the system somewhere.
    Im also installing lights and sockets to the garage next week. Shouldn’t be hard but takes time away from working on the car itself.
     
    Edit: 
    Heres the grill badge after the touch up with silver permanent marker! Brilliant idea that was captain 70’s!

  16. Like
    danthecapriman got a reaction from mercedade in Project Capri. Runner! & Driver! pg.46.   
    Here’s a few pics of the stuff I was on about in the last post.
    Bonnet latch/spring which was an absolute arse to fit.

    New and old bonnet latch. Old one worked ok but looked awful!


    Been waiting for a couple of bits and doing a few odd jobs around the car in the meantime. One of which was to use some clear Dynax UB wax on the inside of the stainless centre caps for the wheels.

    3 of these are new old stock items and I selected the best one from my original four to make up numbers. The wax is to try and stop the sprung clips on the inside from rusting and breaking. Might be a bit over the top but do it right!
     
    Here’s a crappy pic of the sill carpet, stainless sill step trim and replacement footwell kick panel all fitted.

     
    Im still having trouble with the new door seals. Passenger side one has relaxed significantly since last time, and moulded to shape really well with the door being closed on it. It’s still pushing against the door but you don’t have to slam it nearly so hard to fully close it now so hopefully it’ll sort itself out in time. 
    Drivers door seal is still a bitch! It’s incredibly hard to shut the door fully and you can hear the air being forced out of the gap in the rubber when you try, it’s that tight. 
    I’ve re-aligned the door and striker a touch so it closes better and lines up better now but I’m hoping it just needs the door leaving closed on the seal for a few weeks to flatten it and shape it. I don’t know if there’s anything apart from that you can do with the seals? Maybe a light coating of vasaline or something might help make it a bit softer and more supple?? 
     

    The fuel door is open as I was filling the void in the hinge with cavity wax. They have a tendency to rust from inside out if you don’t. Also did the bonnet leading edge while I was at it.
     
    While messing around with the bonnet, I wasn’t happy with the release handles operation. It worked, but felt very slack and loose. Turned out I was missing a tiny clamp which holds the cable outer sheath still while the cable is pulled. Without it the whole cable moves around and you loose that firm ‘pull’. I can’t remember this car having this clip while I’ve had it tbh, but it’s got one now! It’s been cleaned up, painted silver and fits under the slam panel where nobody will ever see it to appreciate my fantastic paint job!



    Im almost done now, it’s just the door seals causing problems that’s slowing things down. I’m pretty certain you won’t be able to close the drivers door fully properly from inside the car the way it is now. Obviously that doesn’t help if you want to drive it! 
    I need to bleed the brakes again too, I’m pretty sure there’s a bit of air still in the system somewhere.
    Im also installing lights and sockets to the garage next week. Shouldn’t be hard but takes time away from working on the car itself.
     
    Edit: 
    Heres the grill badge after the touch up with silver permanent marker! Brilliant idea that was captain 70’s!

  17. Like
    danthecapriman got a reaction from LightBulbFun in Project Capri. Runner! & Driver! pg.46.   
    Boring work has been continuing on this, mostly adding yet more cavity wax and clear wax where it’s visible. Didn’t take pics, cos, it’s boring! Also got the two footwell kick panels fitted back in… then had to remove them because I forgot to connect the earth wires for the interior lights first!🤬 refitted them again now though. 
    Took the grill off and stole @captain_70s idea of using a silver permanent marker to restore the faded ‘FORD’ logo in the middle. Looks much better now so thanks for that one! 
    Then while that was off spent a ridiculously long time trying to get the stupid bonnet release catch spring thing back into place under/through the slam panel. One of those jobs that was incredibly frustrating trying to get it to fit right. Then refitted the release hook and cable. Everything works perfectly which is good. 
    I then decided the original bonnet spring and latch mechanism were not in keeping with the current state of the car! So I bought a new old stock replacement which is like new in that anodised gold-ish colour. Hermes decided to take 13 days to get it to me so it needs fitting and adjusting yet. Then that’s the front end finished and also means the car can be driven without the bonnet flying up. 
    Pics to follow as I forgot to take any.
    I also decided to spend a few days cleaning out the garage and laying a new floor since winters on the way. 
    I’ve put down some rubber/foam type tiles on the floor just to tidy it up and keep it cleaner in there. They’ve got grip mouldings on too so shouldn’t be slippery. 
    Loads of old rubbish and empty boxes of parts binned too, and there’s very very little left to actually fit on the car now which is a relief.

    Its not the best garage ever but it’s all I’ve got for now. It’s dry and safe for the car though which is all I need.
     
    And…
    How was that for a spooky prediction!
  18. Like
    danthecapriman reacted to SiC in Project Capri. Runner! & Driver! pg.46.   
    gummi pflege is what you need to soften rubbers.
    New door seals being too big is a common problem I've seen mentioned on many classic restoration. They get squished more and fit better with time. 
  19. Like
    danthecapriman reacted to Timewaster in Project Capri. Runner! & Driver! pg.46.   
    I would be sticking the badges in place.
    Not only as  rust prevention but getting all those holes drilled 100% accurately would be some feat.
  20. Like
    danthecapriman reacted to Wibble in Project Capri. Runner! & Driver! pg.46.   
    I understand your dilemma. My Cortina badges have pins, later ones were adhesive. In your position I think I’d use adhesive rather than drill through that beautiful paintwork and risk corrosion down the line.
  21. Like
    danthecapriman got a reaction from LightBulbFun in Project Capri. Runner! & Driver! pg.46.   
    More done today.
    Mostly cleaning the interior this time. The seats are fine, being new material, but the dash and most other bits of trim were filthy and looking dull from years of storage so I’ve cleaned it all down with some trim cleaner and a cloth. Incredible how much crap came off on the cloth! It looked grubby but it was far dustier than I thought. Then did a few coats of black cockpit shine and buffed up with a microfibre cloth. Looks absolutely fantastic now!


    It’ll most probably need a few more goes over with the shine as some of the plastic had gone very dull. But it’s not been cleaned or polished in years.
    Spent ages over the last few days sorting the door and tailgate seals too. They’re all new and are making shutting the doors/tailgate extremely difficult. The rubber is so stiff and thick it’s stopping things closing properly. Managed with the doors, although I think it’ll improve with time once the new seals soften and take the shape of the closed doors. But the tailgate is not having it! I think I need to loosen the hinge bolts and slide the tailgate up a touch as I think the seal is hitting in the wrong place on the underside of the tailgate.
    Also finished cleaning and shining up the replacement footwell kick panels. They’re looking great now and just need fitting. I’ve also wax injected the A pillars and inside of the door hinge areas so now just need to fit the kick panels over them.
    And, I had a great find recently! 
    I’ve been thinking about the steering wheel recently. Been keeping an eye out for a better one - couldn’t find anything much of an improvement over mine so thought about getting the leather wrap on mine retrimmed. 
    Then a really nice one turned up on eBay so I bagged it!
    Heres my original. These are different to normal mk2 steering wheels. Mine being an early car they carried on using up stocks of mk1 wheels. Which look way nicer too imho.


    And here’s the one I got off eBay.

    It’s in absolutely lovely condition. The soft trim is all perfect and the plastic is all really good. I think it’s actually off a higher trim car than mine as it’s got a soft padded centre section whereas on my old one it’s hard plastic. All it needed was a quick wash and some cockpit shine buffing on and it looks a million times better than my old one.


    Its got a really pleasant smell too! That old musty car smell with a slight hint of old tobacco! Or rather it did, until I cleaned it.
    Anyway, almost there now. Just a few bits to finish then time to hit the queens highway. (It’ll probably be kings highway by the time I get it done!!) Main thing stopping me driving it now is the tailgate not latching down.
  22. Like
    danthecapriman got a reaction from Scruffy Bodger in Project Capri. Runner! & Driver! pg.46.   
    Here’s a few pics of the stuff I was on about in the last post.
    Bonnet latch/spring which was an absolute arse to fit.

    New and old bonnet latch. Old one worked ok but looked awful!


    Been waiting for a couple of bits and doing a few odd jobs around the car in the meantime. One of which was to use some clear Dynax UB wax on the inside of the stainless centre caps for the wheels.

    3 of these are new old stock items and I selected the best one from my original four to make up numbers. The wax is to try and stop the sprung clips on the inside from rusting and breaking. Might be a bit over the top but do it right!
     
    Here’s a crappy pic of the sill carpet, stainless sill step trim and replacement footwell kick panel all fitted.

     
    Im still having trouble with the new door seals. Passenger side one has relaxed significantly since last time, and moulded to shape really well with the door being closed on it. It’s still pushing against the door but you don’t have to slam it nearly so hard to fully close it now so hopefully it’ll sort itself out in time. 
    Drivers door seal is still a bitch! It’s incredibly hard to shut the door fully and you can hear the air being forced out of the gap in the rubber when you try, it’s that tight. 
    I’ve re-aligned the door and striker a touch so it closes better and lines up better now but I’m hoping it just needs the door leaving closed on the seal for a few weeks to flatten it and shape it. I don’t know if there’s anything apart from that you can do with the seals? Maybe a light coating of vasaline or something might help make it a bit softer and more supple?? 
     

    The fuel door is open as I was filling the void in the hinge with cavity wax. They have a tendency to rust from inside out if you don’t. Also did the bonnet leading edge while I was at it.
     
    While messing around with the bonnet, I wasn’t happy with the release handles operation. It worked, but felt very slack and loose. Turned out I was missing a tiny clamp which holds the cable outer sheath still while the cable is pulled. Without it the whole cable moves around and you loose that firm ‘pull’. I can’t remember this car having this clip while I’ve had it tbh, but it’s got one now! It’s been cleaned up, painted silver and fits under the slam panel where nobody will ever see it to appreciate my fantastic paint job!



    Im almost done now, it’s just the door seals causing problems that’s slowing things down. I’m pretty certain you won’t be able to close the drivers door fully properly from inside the car the way it is now. Obviously that doesn’t help if you want to drive it! 
    I need to bleed the brakes again too, I’m pretty sure there’s a bit of air still in the system somewhere.
    Im also installing lights and sockets to the garage next week. Shouldn’t be hard but takes time away from working on the car itself.
     
    Edit: 
    Heres the grill badge after the touch up with silver permanent marker! Brilliant idea that was captain 70’s!

  23. Like
    danthecapriman got a reaction from Scruffy Bodger in Project Capri. Runner! & Driver! pg.46.   
    Boring work has been continuing on this, mostly adding yet more cavity wax and clear wax where it’s visible. Didn’t take pics, cos, it’s boring! Also got the two footwell kick panels fitted back in… then had to remove them because I forgot to connect the earth wires for the interior lights first!🤬 refitted them again now though. 
    Took the grill off and stole @captain_70s idea of using a silver permanent marker to restore the faded ‘FORD’ logo in the middle. Looks much better now so thanks for that one! 
    Then while that was off spent a ridiculously long time trying to get the stupid bonnet release catch spring thing back into place under/through the slam panel. One of those jobs that was incredibly frustrating trying to get it to fit right. Then refitted the release hook and cable. Everything works perfectly which is good. 
    I then decided the original bonnet spring and latch mechanism were not in keeping with the current state of the car! So I bought a new old stock replacement which is like new in that anodised gold-ish colour. Hermes decided to take 13 days to get it to me so it needs fitting and adjusting yet. Then that’s the front end finished and also means the car can be driven without the bonnet flying up. 
    Pics to follow as I forgot to take any.
    I also decided to spend a few days cleaning out the garage and laying a new floor since winters on the way. 
    I’ve put down some rubber/foam type tiles on the floor just to tidy it up and keep it cleaner in there. They’ve got grip mouldings on too so shouldn’t be slippery. 
    Loads of old rubbish and empty boxes of parts binned too, and there’s very very little left to actually fit on the car now which is a relief.

    Its not the best garage ever but it’s all I’ve got for now. It’s dry and safe for the car though which is all I need.
     
    And…
    How was that for a spooky prediction!
  24. Like
    danthecapriman got a reaction from SiC in Project Capri. Runner! & Driver! pg.46.   
    Here’s a few pics of the stuff I was on about in the last post.
    Bonnet latch/spring which was an absolute arse to fit.

    New and old bonnet latch. Old one worked ok but looked awful!


    Been waiting for a couple of bits and doing a few odd jobs around the car in the meantime. One of which was to use some clear Dynax UB wax on the inside of the stainless centre caps for the wheels.

    3 of these are new old stock items and I selected the best one from my original four to make up numbers. The wax is to try and stop the sprung clips on the inside from rusting and breaking. Might be a bit over the top but do it right!
     
    Here’s a crappy pic of the sill carpet, stainless sill step trim and replacement footwell kick panel all fitted.

     
    Im still having trouble with the new door seals. Passenger side one has relaxed significantly since last time, and moulded to shape really well with the door being closed on it. It’s still pushing against the door but you don’t have to slam it nearly so hard to fully close it now so hopefully it’ll sort itself out in time. 
    Drivers door seal is still a bitch! It’s incredibly hard to shut the door fully and you can hear the air being forced out of the gap in the rubber when you try, it’s that tight. 
    I’ve re-aligned the door and striker a touch so it closes better and lines up better now but I’m hoping it just needs the door leaving closed on the seal for a few weeks to flatten it and shape it. I don’t know if there’s anything apart from that you can do with the seals? Maybe a light coating of vasaline or something might help make it a bit softer and more supple?? 
     

    The fuel door is open as I was filling the void in the hinge with cavity wax. They have a tendency to rust from inside out if you don’t. Also did the bonnet leading edge while I was at it.
     
    While messing around with the bonnet, I wasn’t happy with the release handles operation. It worked, but felt very slack and loose. Turned out I was missing a tiny clamp which holds the cable outer sheath still while the cable is pulled. Without it the whole cable moves around and you loose that firm ‘pull’. I can’t remember this car having this clip while I’ve had it tbh, but it’s got one now! It’s been cleaned up, painted silver and fits under the slam panel where nobody will ever see it to appreciate my fantastic paint job!



    Im almost done now, it’s just the door seals causing problems that’s slowing things down. I’m pretty certain you won’t be able to close the drivers door fully properly from inside the car the way it is now. Obviously that doesn’t help if you want to drive it! 
    I need to bleed the brakes again too, I’m pretty sure there’s a bit of air still in the system somewhere.
    Im also installing lights and sockets to the garage next week. Shouldn’t be hard but takes time away from working on the car itself.
     
    Edit: 
    Heres the grill badge after the touch up with silver permanent marker! Brilliant idea that was captain 70’s!

  25. Like
    danthecapriman got a reaction from SiC in Project Capri. Runner! & Driver! pg.46.   
    Boring work has been continuing on this, mostly adding yet more cavity wax and clear wax where it’s visible. Didn’t take pics, cos, it’s boring! Also got the two footwell kick panels fitted back in… then had to remove them because I forgot to connect the earth wires for the interior lights first!🤬 refitted them again now though. 
    Took the grill off and stole @captain_70s idea of using a silver permanent marker to restore the faded ‘FORD’ logo in the middle. Looks much better now so thanks for that one! 
    Then while that was off spent a ridiculously long time trying to get the stupid bonnet release catch spring thing back into place under/through the slam panel. One of those jobs that was incredibly frustrating trying to get it to fit right. Then refitted the release hook and cable. Everything works perfectly which is good. 
    I then decided the original bonnet spring and latch mechanism were not in keeping with the current state of the car! So I bought a new old stock replacement which is like new in that anodised gold-ish colour. Hermes decided to take 13 days to get it to me so it needs fitting and adjusting yet. Then that’s the front end finished and also means the car can be driven without the bonnet flying up. 
    Pics to follow as I forgot to take any.
    I also decided to spend a few days cleaning out the garage and laying a new floor since winters on the way. 
    I’ve put down some rubber/foam type tiles on the floor just to tidy it up and keep it cleaner in there. They’ve got grip mouldings on too so shouldn’t be slippery. 
    Loads of old rubbish and empty boxes of parts binned too, and there’s very very little left to actually fit on the car now which is a relief.

    Its not the best garage ever but it’s all I’ve got for now. It’s dry and safe for the car though which is all I need.
     
    And…
    How was that for a spooky prediction!
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