Jump to content

mrcitroen

Full Members
  • Content Count

    514
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About mrcitroen

  • Rank
    Rank: BL Wedge

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Covered in LHM

Country

  • Country
    Scotland
  1. Running on could be an issue with the stop solenoid in the carb. While the engine is running at idle, pull the lead from the solenoid. The car should stop dead, if it continues to run as normal the solenoid is not working. Purpose of the stop solenoid is to block carb idle pathway when ignition is cut to prevent run on at shutdown. AKA Dieseling. I know I keep going on about it like a broken record, but I was not that keen on the HT leads on your car. They were a very poor fit onto the plugs. Possible there could be a small gap between the lead terminal and plug. I did think the car was running quite rich. The exhaust had that smell. Don't get too hung up,on those marks on the dizzy. I know you are trying to get your head round what is going on. They would have been scribed on dizzy by some previous owner or mechanic. We have no evidence that they would have ever had any accuracy. Only accurate way to set timing is how we done it on Saturday. As it is, it's set to the book 10 dead BTDC, but the car may benefit from a little advance. I know on my G that if a go much above 12 or 13 deg BTDC it can start to pink. Sometimes tuning cars is not all about book figures, but how it drives on the road and a small tweak may be needed. It's all good fun and you can learn loads from just trying things. Getting an old car with un known history, to run like a Swiss watch can take ages! The rough running on mine was the carb. It was just so clogged up I'm surprised it ran. Best move ever though was fitting the electronic ignition.
  2. I shortened an Allen key so that the inner wing did not get in the way. To adjust, I flicked the clip, inserted the key, re attached clip then measured the dwell. The above is all a bit academic now as I run electronic these days. What a difference!
  3. Yep, mine just loves to rev and rev and rev! The more it revs the smoother it becomes. It just encourages you to press on.
  4. Good good. Once a G is on song, it's unbeatable. Lovely smooth turbine like engines. Gave it some beans when we went across the dukes pass last night. One if my fav roads.
  5. Yesterday was good fun. I enjoyed it. Yes, we gapped the points to the recommended .35mm set the timing to 10 deg btdc using my fancy snap on strobe and fitted new correctly gapped plugs. It did run much better after that. The points had closed up considerably. The SEV Marchal cassette points are a nightmare. To adjust them the dizzy needs to come out, but I showed Neil that you can drill a hole in the dizzy body and insert an Allen key and adjust in situ. A dwell gauge is used if going that route. Incidentally, I have the factory manual and it recommends setting the points by dwell rather than gap. I definatley think the carby needs a service kit thrown at it. I done that on my more complicated Solex and it made the world of a difference. Luckily Neil has the much nicer Webber. All good fun. The car is a wee cracker really. Most importantly it's solid in all the right bits.
  6. Cant say I have had any issues using NGK. The ones in mine have been in the last few years and no issues. Only issue I have had is when I was working in the car over a prolonged time. I would move the car in and out of the garage, started from cold & on choke. After a while the plugs sooted up and caused a misfire. Apart from that, the NGK's have been as reliable as any plug as I have used in any car, Apart from Bosch super 4's which were shit from day 1.
  7. Yes, that was good fun last night. Quite a good meeting all in. Paul followed me to old inns in his C15 so it was a wee bit of a mini convoy. Your GSA is fundamentally a really good car. It just really needs the few wee bits and bobs done as we discussed. All fairly easy stuff. It's mechanically sound and drives well.
  8. Had silly issues like that with mine when I first got it. One if the starting / running issues was the amount of silt in the carb float bowl. Caused idle jet to block so car would not start or run cleanly when it did start. This was intermittent though. Condenser failed too and the cassette points in the SEV Marchal dizzys are evil. (I'm all electronic noo) Keep an eye on it and see how it goes.
  9. That's sort of happening with some of the G suppliers too. In fairness to Rob Moss who runs Chevronics, he says he ploughs his profits from G parts sales back into re manufacture of NFP parts. Prices are salty, but no where as near as bad as CX Basis.
  10. It was indeed a bit of a chance meet. I seen you heading towards me & I done a 360. I think some trim parts can be nigh on impossible to get. Always managed to get any mechanical parts OK either from eBay, the German GS place or Chevronics.
  11. A good GS or GSA does buzz along vvvv nicely indeed. The engine note is very addictive and they just love to rev. Mine with the 1220 engine will sit at above legal limit without too much fuss. I always feel it needs that 5th gear and it will be just perfect. Definitely a car that needs to be tried.
  12. mrcitroen

    Antifreeze

    Over to Foghorn Leghorn to explain :- Ahhh say boy, ahhh say boy...........
  13. As far as I can see, the Toyo is not available in 145x15. The van tyres for the CX have reinforced sidewalls and give a harsher ride. DS guys have the same issue with the 185x15's they use. I know someone who had Kumho van tyres in his D. Swapped over to 185x15 car spec tyres and could not believe the difference in ride/handling.
  14. Agreed. I have Nankang as spare. When I got my GS it still was on the original tyres. Cracked sidewalls and tread as hard as a Glesga polis. Stopping with them in damp was interesting. I suppose it could be argued that the Nankangs in this case would be safer, but the car would never be right in a way. Plus square shoulder tyres would screw up the centre point geometry. Michelin £100 per corner. Nankang 40 per corner. Money could swing it for a lot if people.
  15. To make servicing a lot easier, you can by an oil filter adaptor from Chevronics. This allows more widely available filters to be used. The standard GS size is hard to get in reputable brands. I think the Mann filter that fits is around 14 squid. Fit this adaptor then buy the Purflux ones that fit the petrol BX & Xantias. Get them from GSF when they do the cheap weekend deals and they are pennies. Purflux is Citroen OE and are VV high quality. I use 10w40 semi synth. Not brand fussy. Timing belts are easy to do. Hard / time consuming part is getting the headlamp panel off (if all the bolts have rusted) and removing the fan & starting handle dog. Deep 42mm socket and windy gun needed. Whole debate about tyres. I fitted Michelin XZX. 145X15 is not an easy size. You can get Nankang in that size, but they have a modern square shoulder, not the rounded shoulder like the Michelins do. Rounded shoulder is more suited to the GS' unique centre point steering. However, in real world terms I don't know how much difference that makes. Front spheres are easy least, rears not. Issue being the cylinders need to come out. Pushrods pin could be seized and pipe union rusted/ seized. These round for fun as the union nuts are made from Brie.
×
×
  • Create New...