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Everything posted by Ash

  1. I need help with finding a part number reference manual. (Looking for a front shock absorber)
  2. The original air filter - was not particularly dirty, but lets replace it anyway (keep the original as spare) New filter The new filter is a bit taller than the original and it obstructs the intake to the filter box by a few mm, however i dont think it is critical ? (I would be more concerned if some particles getting with the incoming air could punch through the filter in that spot, but dont know if it really happens) The coolant is lime green transparent color (allthough there is a "paraflu" sticker on the windshield) I couldnt find any drain valve. The radiator is replacement (probably following the crash that's seen on the car front right) Some black stuff that looks like a sealant from the tube connection to the radiator came out with the coolant. In any case, i have put it back together without any such stuff and it haven't leaked Some scale in the coolant tank but doesnt seem like much I drained the old as much as will come out (a little remained in the bottom of the radiator, below the tube i disconnected) and filled new. The old coolant seems clean Headlights were dim-ish and would go out if i fiddle with the wiring The H4 lamp holders (they are not originals, there are splices in the wiring) were loose on the lamp pins, so i took the terminals out and crimped them a little with pliers One filament (left low beam) didnt work at all. Found that the wire is broken under the insulation, in the spot where it enters the terminal For now i soldered it onto the terminal. Not great to have on a wire subject to vibrations (the solder wicks into the wire and hardens it, which makes a brekable spot), but itll do for now before i get back to redo the headlights more properly. (And i'm going to - They need work to fix the crash damage) A turn signal didnt light up - Was corrosion on the back terminals of the lamp holder (where the cable plug comes to it). Some poking with screwdriver sorted it
  3. This was really before the oil change, but only now i came around to posting The wing that's been repaired in the past. There have been leaks from it into the trunk, and i wanted to take it off to check how to properly reseat it However, its left (behind the door) and bottom (behind the bumper) parts are seated perfectly, so its really the wing itself that's deformed The D pillar have a plastic cover on its exterior. The cover is held by 2 bolts and a pin The bolts are accessed from inside however here one of the bolts had detached from the plastic panel, and the part that inserts on the pin was cracked - It snapped off when i tried to slide it out I have put them on loads of silicone (to the bolt head and to the detached part, not to the car body) for the time being, till i fix them properly with some proper adhesive resin The water flows here under the "upper" gasket (which is of not much use - It is all dried out and hard, and i could barely even fit it in. Right now it is off and put aside) There is some yellow filler that's hard as rock and yet not sealing anymore, probably from the time when the wing was repaired In this spot the wing is not tightened to the car all the way (due to its deformation) and water could freely flow into under the wing. Not a lot of water mind, but might be enough to corrode something in the space there I sealed it from here (the top) so that it won't get water in every time. The space there still have its openings on the bottom and into the trunk volume Removing the hardened outer gasket on the window bottom, i found a bad spot in there There is that part that was stuck there (looks like some spacer that was left when the glass was installed - Maybe the glass broke on that crash when the wing was damaged, and was replaced) It caught standing water in the channel below the window, and apparently in this spot the metal was exposed or something corrosive was present so it grew into a nasty rust spot with a hole I am thinking how to treat it all the way up to the window sealing edge as it's rusted up to there, and i would not want to take off the window unless it is really necessary Would wire brush and acid do it ? I sealed it from the top (and in the channel) with Super 7 and a patch of plastic (the cut up tube that the Super 7 itself came in), to prevent water from reaching to the spot I plan to peel it off and redo properly when i get around to it I still plan to take off the wing later, to properly fix the crease in the trunk edge and sand/prime/repaint that spot (it would start rusting) Untill then, i just sealed it with lots of Super 7, and will leave the trunk gasket off - I wouldn't mind as much some minor splashes getting into the trunk, but without gasket it won't catch standing water that will cause rust to appear in that spot With the entire channel now covered with sealant end to end, hopefully the water will come straight off
  4. Trying to get the correct oil filter I couldn't unscrew the old filter by hand. Neither i wanted to punch it through to remove it - as i wouldn't like to leave the car inoperable in case it will take a while to find the suitable replacement or some other problem show up Here is something i found at the parts shop. It seems the right external diameter, but i can't bet its quality... (Whether it filters at all, and won't release some bits that'll get stuck somewhere else) So, took a couple pics and went on to search for an original part for now I would like to drain the oil for a day to let as much as possible out. But its out on the road - if anyone bumps the tray from under the carter, then it'll be mess flowing on the road (i have no clue how much more oil will come slowly from it when left for long) So i'd like to drain the lot, then plug it for a day and drain again the leftovers tomorrow. I want something that can plug the hole, that won't require strong tightening, but not leak as much as the proper plug when screwed loosely Bits laying around my electrical workshop The original oil was quite dark and stinky I splashed a little of the new oil into the fill inlet (right into the camshaft) to hopefully wash away some more of the old oil Took a sample of the old oil in a bottle to show my local mechanic. (The rest is in a gallon jug for proper disposal) The oil is completely opaque, flashlight won't light through it New tool in my toolbox Jacked up the back of the car to hopefully get more old oil out from the bottom of the carter So here is what i managed to source : The Chinese filter for Fiat Uno/Punto shown above Original filter for Alfa (Giulietta according to hand writing on box). Its diameter seems right, but is a bit shorter. I guess it won't matter (within reasonable filter change intervals) Figured i'll let it run with the Chinese filter for a while to collect as much as possible of the remaining junk, and then (based on how i think the oil will be) either do a complete oil change again, or change just the filter, and then use the Alfa filter The Chinese filter appears to have the insides of a filter, so is not a fake. Can't tell more than this just from looking at it Oiling it Wiping and oiling the surface it seals to Long deserved. 10W-40 semi synthetic After filling up i went for a short drive. Some oil leaked from the camshaft cover and around the edge of the carter, but later stopped. I haven't seen any new leaks over the next days
  5. According to https://motor-info.com/en/engine-oil/fiat-tempra My engine is 159B9.000 (tho the website lists it as 1996, my Tempra is 1995 and got this engine). This list shows 10W-40, allthough some other places i found specify 15W-40 (Would there be a different recommendation based on low frequency of starting/driving ?)
  6. I gotta figure out which oil & coolant i need for Tempra Oil It's Tempra 1.6ie, engine 159B9.000 - Don't know much beyond that I don't know when it was last serviced - May it need flushing/cleaning ? How can i figure out that ? Also, synthetic ? semi synthetic ? How does that work ? Is there a specific type i have to get so it won't react with gaskets etc ? I'm going to replace the oil filter as well Coolant The stuff in there now is of a viridian-green color. The guy from who i bought the Tempra says it's a mix of 1/2 concentrated coolant - 1/2 distilled water which is (as he says) something Fiats use In the Qubo i have a label on the coolant tank which specifies "Paraflu". There isn't any label in the Tempra, however i guess that might be what's in there now Does the Tempra need that particular coolant or any standard coolant ? Does the coolant system need any flushing or such if it's unknown when it was last changed ? (The cooling system works perfectly, there isn't any sign of a problem) Other fluids What other fluids (brake, steering, ...) i may have to change ?
  7. Came to touch up some of the sealing i made today. The Super 7 (sealant type : Den Braven Hybrifix Super 7) seems to hold fairly well to itself, but is easy to peel from the metal (atleast after 2 days of curing) As long as it really seals to the metal/paint i guess this is good (keeps water out and is easy to rework later), but if it doesn't, i'll have to peel it off and find something else\ In any case, i keep watching it to make sure i don't get water trapped somewhere
  8. Figured so... For now yet another day with no issues at all. Even the 2nd thing disappeared - Maybe as i am moving the stick more harshly than the previous owner
  9. I drove the car today and the reverse gear switched in perfectly. I could not reproduce the issue at all Not sure now what it could have been & what to check ?
  10. I have been dealing with it today. In short : I took off the bumper and looked at the wing mounting. The mounting points that were far from the place of impact are seated well, and don't look like they are out of place, i.e. only part of the wing was twisted So i left it mounted as is, and went on to sealing everything I had to take out the outer gasket of the rear window to seal below it (where the seam begins). I haven't yet put back the gasket - It is hard and inflexible, and needs to be put on sealant in its own right to hold, which i will do later. It was allready loose in places and held in place with some older sealant as well (an old repair) While removing it i found a rusted through hole in the metal right under the rear window. There were 2 "place holder" things there (probably used to align the glass when the window was installed), one of which trapped water and created this spot For now i removed the "place holders" and patched the spot with a patch of flexible plastic, attached to place with the same sealant that i used on everything else. It covers the entire bad spot with margins, and is sealed to the good area around it. The patch won't be visible once the gasket is on (except when the trunk is open)
  11. From where i looked (except under the bumper, haven't yet taken it out) it is held in on bolts. And from inside the trunk i see the back of a riveted captive nut, which matches where i would expect more bolts to be The leak is from the seam above the wing, it is not related to the light But i have another problem with the wing - It is a bit deformed (not great repair after a crash), there are cracks in the filler they used, and makes the rear light stay in an awkward position, that makes the trunk door (also bent a little) hit it I want to try to reseat them both to fit in properly, and am considering to repaint it to seal those cracks so water won't be getting in (it's not trhe source of the leak, but to prevent rust of the wing itself under the repaired area)
  12. I bought Car 6 It have a petrol 1.4 FIRE engine with 75hp. Everything else is the same as in any other Qubo Performance On the uphill road i checked, it does 60 km/h on 4th gear, with full gas but not excessive rpm. Could do a bit more than that if i enter the uphill stretch with higher speed to begin with. I can live with that, as otherwise i like the car very much (I could push it harder by flooring on 3rd gear, but it is pointless) Verdict about the diesels After seeing few of the diesel Qubo's myself (4 of them in total), i fully confirm what y'all told me here. Even the ones that "work ok", do consistently have a feeling of "still work ok, as long as not disturbed" to them - Which i indeed started to recognize (i think) after all this checking of cars Clutch problem The clutch in this car i got seems to not fully disconnect, when pressed to the floor. It almost disconnects - All forward gear switching works normally, but when i try to switch into reverse, there is a kick sound and the car jerks. If i move the gear stick slowly, the gear grinds I'm going to look into this right away Gear shifting The gear stick doesn't always have a "well defined" feel that it is fully inserted into the gear. It feels as if there is some dirt in the stick/levers mechanism that gets in the way a little. (That's how i describe the feeling, not necessarily what is really going on) I want to sort that out too There are some more issues and things that need fixing/replacement but they are ordinary maintenance This car will be my daily driver from now on (once i fix the most critical stuff). This is in additional to the Tempra, which is more of a weekend restoration/repair project for now
  13. I want to try to take off the wing tomorrow to check under it. Is the wing somehow connected to the glass of the small rear window - Is there a procedure to disconnect them ?
  14. Rust under the trunk gasket In addition to the leak The edges of the trunk opening on the bottom have been apparently standing in water trapped in the gasket, and have rusted significantly I would like advice on how to stop the damage and repair this properly
  15. Leak in the trunk I have a leak through old and dried up caulking in the seam between the wing and the other part that the trunk gasket is on (not the gasket itself) I'd like to replace the caulking there, however there are few issues : I'm concerned that taking out the old caulking would do more damage The left wing had been damaged by a crash in the past and repaired, but the repair is not great, in particular, it fits badly with the light, making the trunk door hit or nearly hit the light. I might consider to take the wing off at some point in the future to try to reseat it So my current plan is to put new caulk right over the old, making the band wide enough to cover plain surface on both sides (to seal it) Would like advice Full story After the first significant rain i checked out whether the car is dry inside. Found that the trunk lining is soaked (all 3 of them, the one that covers the spare tire and the sides) Under them i found quite pools of water In the latter corner i found a plastic plug in the corner, apparently for laying in wiring for fog lights or something like that. Removing the plug enabled draining the water, the rest i wiped dry Took the liners to dry at home There is some rust under the gasket, but not near the top (where i suspect standing water might be present), but on the sides. Overall it looks like the main leak is not from the gasket, allthough there is a rust issue under the gasket as well, mostly at the bottom The latter bend is indeed a place where the gasket doesn't close tightly, but it still isnt what filled the trunk After some more heavy rain i got into the trunk from inside the car, trying to pinpoint where the leak is Top is dry Sides - and it looks like at the wing seam (not at the gasket) are leaking and dripping. Right is dripping massively, left is not dripping much but there is water flow on the wall I put some pans for the night, to prevent pools again (as much as possible....) By tomorrow night the right side was full like this, left allmost dry, and wet floor on the left side only (from the leak that flows on the wall) To dry the interior for now i rigged a fan, that will blow into the breath hole under the left wing. Hopefully it can dissipate most of the moisture away
  16. Unfortunately nope. It's a bunch of parking spots along the road, common to a few houses, where any specific spot is taken one day by you and another day by your neighbor
  17. I plan to run my Tempra approx once a week depending on weather. I am considering to get the hoodie to reduce the quantity of moisture that gets to get in (into the seams around doors, engine hood etc), before i take it off to drive anyway
  18. Over here we have sometimes winter days (series of a few days at a time) with heavy rains and no wind, then sometimes something else Would a hoodie still help preserve the car better (consodering both rust and paintwork) if put on for those few days, then taken off if the weather changes ?
  19. What do the exterior covers do which is bad ?
  20. While i'm still looking for a Qubo daily driver, in the back of mind i have had a wish to get an 80's car. Not for work, but to drive into the sunset on the weekend, between 2 rows of palm trees You gotta be careful with what you wish for - because you might just get it Spotted while looking for a Qubo online. It was somewhere in the center of the country (and very far from here), so i went on a single trip to check out both it and other 2 Qubo's (that's in another thread) The moment i got in, i was impressed. Figured here is my 80's, well 1995 Fiat Tempra 1.6 i.e. Driving started with a second of grinding the gear - I came to put it in reverse to get out of the parking, and haven't expected that the clutch goes THAT far down - It's definitely more down than in the instruction car or any Qubo's The rest of the test drive was great. The car goes well and really does give the feel of "a real car", which is kinda missing in everything modern Mechanically the car appears to be in great condition The chassis is in great shape and completely rust free. The previous owner have kept it in an enclosed garage. I don't have one, but plan to put a hoodie on it when not in use during winter Body work does have bends, former repairs and fill-ins. Some panels aren't aligned too well, in particular the engine hood door does have significant gap on one side as the wing is a bit out of place. The front turn signal lenses are smashed. The headlights are intact, but a bit misaligned due to the wing. In short, the car did have some impacts over its life, but none of them impacted the chassis in any way (and i looked very throughly on the underside to check this) That day took me a few rides by train to get through all the cars to check out. After the test drive, some vague check up on the mechanical condition, and inspection of the underside - chassis, I bought it on the spot (With the Qubos, which are more modern and i'm looking into using one as daily driver, i am much more picky tho) Taking the car home was a problem. The car had been insured by the seller, but the insurance doesn't cover me driving (being a new driver) The seller, who (as i got to know him on this day) is into vintage cars. He noticed that i showed unusual passion for the car, and agreed to drive it all the way from the center to my house, a journey over 120 km. He arranged with some friend of his, who came with a 2nd car following us, and the two set off for their way back once the Tempra was at the destination The night ride in the Tempra was exactly as i could imagine a night ride in an 80s car. Everything was incredible, all the way to the awesome purr of the engine (the seller was driving) (The lighting was bad, as the headlights are not aligned, but that's it) I'm very happy to have caught the Tempra. I have the impression that the car is great - It definitely is in rarely good condition for its age It needs some things, which i will address one at a time. For a start, i'd like a checklist of possible required maintenance (as i dont know when exactly it had been last serviced) Things currently i think of : Oil replacement Coolant replacement (does it need some flushing or just drain the old & fill new ?) Any belts ? Any filters ? Spark plugs ? HV (spark) wiring condition ? Brake wear level ? Tire wear level ? Anything else that might be required if the car have been standing unmoved for a few months straight ?
  21. I have almost arranged with a local owner of a petrol Qubo (which is not for sale) for a test drive on our roads (to assess the power), but right now the car got a blown tire... In any case, i'll be going to check out Cars 6 and 7, as they are, and try to find an inclined enough road in that area to see how they behave
  22. I can accept having to get under the car sometimes, but not "car blew engine out of the blue and needs replacement" sort of trouble. Which cars 1...5 all seemed to be at risk of heading to, in one way or another, based on specific things i found in the test (ongoing overheating history, oil burning up in exhaust smoke, oil pressure issues, ...), a test facility found (Car 2), or lack of cooperation from seller to even let me check it (Car 4) With the diesel, i figured (from this thread, as well as elsewhere) that i have to take extra precaution. Checking 5 cars to pick a better one is part of the precaution With the petrol, things look simpler, so i have currently one to check out, and if i will decide i want the petrol but not that specific one, i will search for yet another one So cars 6 and 7 are the petrol and diesel respectively which i will check out in the next few days
  23. I am now in communications to arrange to check out Car 6 (the Petrol one), which i will hopefully do over the next few days The owner had recently did the 10K service, so i am concerned that some things i usually check (such as for oil leaks around the engine) could be cleaned up and not be visible I would like your advice on evaluating the health condition of petrol engine in general, as i haven't had as much opportunity to evaluate those as the diesel versions (of which i have recently seen enough, so have a grasp at some specific things)
  24. What if i find out that while it's fully functional, it's just breathless on my local roads, and post "this is garbage" ... ? If anything, that's something i will find out in the first week, vs. an engine that will fail someday in the future, and might give me years of great driving before that So to me the answer is not this simple. I want to dive in and weight in detail what i might get, against what i might have to pay for it in maintenance. I am willing to accept SOME types of trouble, but not others Largely it comes down to : If there is difference in driving as i preceive (which i am still testing and evaluating), then : I'm ok with having to put more work & money in preventative maintenance and occasional replacement of parts (injectors, pumps, ....), which i acknowledge are more different parts to look after than in a petrol I'm not ok with "engine blew up out of the blue and needs replacement, despite i haven't let it down myself in any way" (I have read about the timing chain issues with those - I view it as required preventative maintenance, and not as random failure when the chain is let to wear out) The examples you provide are of the latter "engine blew up", but i am missing the back story - Have any of the cars you mention had neglect in maintenance ? Have they done so many miles that they reached normal end of life by wear out ? Have some freak incident happened ? I have readily available examples from my surrounding area, of all sorts of trouble in all sorts of cars, and others that lasted well despite all odds See Car 3 above. That one is an 1.3 Multijet which had done 270K km and still works, even though it is worn now. I know about it that it's first owner (which had done the most of the mileage of that car) had maintained it well back in the day I have a customer (a building contractor) who have got a few Berlingo's, which do have some turnaround all the time (some go, some new ones appear every now and then). He offered me to buy one of them as well. He tells how they are great cars in great shape, while topping water from the hose into the coolant tank as he talks. (Make your own conclusions) ... It seems that at least part of the trouble (or prevention thereof) may be in my hands, and not "force majeure". Some things i see around confirm it, and some disprove it With this in mind, i have, since the beginning of search for car, greatly changed the year & mileage i'm looking for - It's been 2010 & 270K km in the first cars i checked, and is all the way to 2015 & 90K now (with the respective price difference - A month ago i couldn't imagine i'll go this high, but here we are) I do think this changes the equation, in the sense that there is much more life left in the car to begin with, and much of it will depend on how i treat it from now on - vs. existing wear & damage from previous owners, to whom the high mileage ones might have been in banger area already
  25. Over the last few days i have checked out a Berlingo too, 2011 1.6 diesel. It is in fairly good condition overall, however not the car type i am looking for. So i stay with the Fiorino/Qubo target Right now i am looking at 2 newer Qubo's at much higher price (more than double that of the very first cars i came to check out with the big problems, and significantly more than the last ones as well) I am willing to check them out, provided that they are much less worn, and so i have a car and esepecially an engine in better condition to begin with Car 6 : Qubo 2015, Petrol 1368cc, 120K km Car 7 : Qubo 2015, Diesel, 90K km The engines in the petrol cars are specced some as 1360 and others 1368cc, which i assume are TU and FIRE respectively, unless whoever put up the sale posts messed it up What sorts of mechanical trouble i might face eventually with either of the 3 engines, and how much it depends on how i treat it, vs random fault out of the blue ?
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