GeorgeB reacted to brownnova in The new news 24 thread
Thank you for educating me... as your post appears to suggest, we haven’t got the latest standards of political correctness here in “rural Wales” (We’ve only just got double glazing and inside plumbing here) so it was unbeknownst to me that the word may cause you offence on behalf of the travelling community.
What we lack in political correctness we do make up for in 6 nations titles though.
GeorgeB reacted to Bfg in Triumph - That was a year that was..
Yesterday afternoon I went to the dust bowl (where my storage container is) to do a few more TR jobs - related to its running temperature.
I'm more and more suspecting the temperature gauge sensor &/or its wiring to be an issue. I did have one fitted into the spare 4Aengine I bought in Nov 2019 (which was intended to have been rebuilt ready to go into 'Chance') but with moving house that particular item was packed safely away ..and somewhat frustratingly remains 'out of sight.' Anyway I removed the one from Katie simply to clean it (in case it was encrusted with rusty crud) and to check its part number, so that I might buy a replacement. .
^ The numbers on three faces read ; GTR / 20G5 / 104. I'm guessing GTR is the manufacturer, 20G5 being the part number, its length & fit, and the 104 might be the temperature that transmits "too flipping hot fella" to the gauge.
Now I have those, I hope to cross reference, check it's the correct part, and to find another.
I also pulled the thermostat (yet again) to make some soup. .
^ The silver one in the middle is the new one (82-deg), the rust stained one at the bottom is the old one out of this engine (also 82-deg), the one at the top is a nos I bought for 'chance' (it is rated at 88-deg) and that to the left was one out of the spare engine. The first three worked fine, but the latter, an old Waxstat, doesn't.
^ I've now refitted the new replacement. The one that was fitted has been cleaned of its rusty deposits and with the 88-deg one has been labeled and kept as spares. The old Waxstat (right) which didn't work has been binned.
Next up was the expansion bottle. . .
^ after cleaning as best I could while it was in situ., I pulled it out to clean it up and check that it wasn't cracked or otherwise damaged. The rusty colour staining was a hard encrustation. Whatever the root cause Katie has had this overflowing issue for a long time. In any case it then took a flipping age to clean it off, with a coarse industrial scouring pad and a scraper. Fortunately the bottle itself is in good shape and has been refitted. Its overflow pipe only reached a third of the way into the bottle. That's now been replaced with a new length of pipe which reaches to the bottom (cut at 45-deg so it can't go flat to the bottom).
I also pulled the bypass hose off ..
^ The bottom jubilee clip, on the water pump was loose enough to turn and pull up without undoing first) and there was again a fair degree of encrustation to be seen. I've been told that the small hole size in this casting is correct for the TR4A, whereas the TR4 had a noticeably larger drilling. Again things were only cleaned up before the pipe was refitted. There was also hard rust deposits within the first 1-/12" of the rubber pipe ends. I used a small rotary wire brush to get rid of those and then wiped the inside of the pipe with a smear of silicon grease before refitting.
The next, and final job of the day, was to get up-close-and-personal with Katie' s fan . .
^ The four blade fan is pretty useless at best and ..if possible, even more so when fitted back-to-front and with one blade slightly bent. The fan's rotation is anti-clockwise when looking forward from the engine and so the ribs in the aluminium blade ought to face forward ..to offer a mediocre of leading edge shape to it otherwise non aerofoil shape. As fitted, reversed / rotated 180-deg - the overall blade angle of attack is the same but the leading edge is facing backwards and so would induce stall.
Hey ho, it is an easy mistake to make but a pain-in-the-access to correct. Getting a spanner onto and undoing the four bolts has one's knuckles scraping over the radiator core, which feels as friendly as a cheese grater. They did however come out and the fan was removed with the radiator still in situ. .
^ The existing, surprisingly heavy fan with aluminium blades but a hub of two layers of steel. And its replacement ..a very lightweight plastic contoured-blade fan from the TR6 (also GT6 &/or Triumph 2000 perhaps) which has the same pcd / hole spacings. So it's a straight swap, except that the TR6 fan's hub is level with the back edge of the blades (not the middle of their roots) - and when fitted this pushes the fan 1/2" further forward than the TR4 type. Awkwardly too, its fastening bolts (those from the TR4 are fine to reuse) sit into the bottom of the cup (hub) ..and that makes it very much more difficult to fit them, not least because a flat or ring spanner cannot be used.
The cardboard shroud between the radiator and the grille prevents the radiator from simply being unbolted and pushed forward. But I was able to lift it and rest it on a block of wood, without having to drain or totally lift it out. In retrospect that might have been easier though.
^ It looks a reasonably clean working environment but this is after sweeping up the sand and dust that blows literally everywhere.
..so laying on ones back with hair (or bald patch) in the wet I achieved this access . .
^ although I couldn't get a hand through that gap, I could see what i was doing when reaching under the chassis rail, to get my fingers in to loosely fit the plate and its bolts. And then, with a 1/2" socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet - I could get inbetween the radiator and those bolts to tighten them up. Finally tightened with an 3/8" drive ratchet.
^ The original lock plate as removed off the TR4 fan. The central hole is hexagonal and it is supposed to fit / lock around the head of big bolt through the crankshaft's fan-extension. The four fan-securing bolts then lock it from unwinding. I flattening and refitted the plate correctly, albeit inside the TR6's fan. And after fitting and final tightening I even painted it (using a toothbrush to get in there).
^ While the fan was off I took a couple of photos of the fan-extension on this car, which is interesting ..insomuch as it appears to have been modified to clear the steering rack . . So I have to ask - is the engine sitting low or is the rack sitting high ?
Some of you might wonder why I take so many pictures ? Well that's because very often I can see more from a photo, taken with a camera in a position I'd never get my fat head in. For example, the eagle eyed among you might have spotted the U-clamp which is securing the steering rack. ! I hadn't spotted that from above.
I wonder how long Bob's been driving it around like that ?
An equally interesting question might be what else has rusted away because an overflowing radiator has been ignored for years ?
^ TR6 cooling fan in place. Admittedly it's not very 1960's but I prefer it to fitting an electric fan. And very oddly ..with the engine running on fast tick-over.. the blast of air coming back and down the side of the engine (where it is safer for fingers) is in stark contrast to what was not at all happening with the original fan (as that was fitted).
Although it's only 2-1/2 miles from the dust bowl to home.. already the temperature gauge suggests things are noticeably better than they were.
These are just a single step at a time ..and yet they do seem to be in roughly the right direction.
But I'll not use the car until the steering-rack fastening is corrected.
So that's all for right now, I bid you a good weekend.
GeorgeB reacted to vulgalour in The grumpy thread
The campaigners have a point, it's an easily observable fact that we do tend to gloss over the achievements of non-white people, and of women. I've already heard more than enough homophobic nonsense targetted at Alan Turing's nomination and people saying stupid things like they won't use the money he's on so.... yeah. It's a nuanced issue. Best option is to put nobody's face on the money, not even the one with the sparkly hat.
GeorgeB got a reaction from Dick Longbridge in Toyota RAV4 GX "Jack" - Scrapped 20th August 2021 // New Video For It
I wouldn't do that. Rust traps, you know.
GeorgeB reacted to St.Jude in Toyota RAV4 GX "Jack" - Scrapped 20th August 2021 // New Video For It
NMFP after this!
GeorgeB got a reaction from St.Jude in Toyota RAV4 GX "Jack" - Scrapped 20th August 2021 // New Video For It
I wouldn't do that. Rust traps, you know.
GeorgeB reacted to jakebullet in The grumpy thread
So we have a new £50 note with Alan Turing on it. Jolly good.
However when you read the bbc article: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-56503741
However, campaigners are still questioning how much the Bank's collection of banknotes represents society. Three feature men - Winston Churchill on the £5 note, JMW Turner on the £20 note, and soon Alan Turing on the £50 note. Only the £10 note, with the portrait of Jane Austen, depicts a woman apart from the Queen, and all are white.
In an interview with the BBC, Mr Bailey said he wanted to see diverse ethnic minorities represented on future banknotes.
What a load of wet woke bollocks. Obviously we should have a transgender black woman on our money. There's obviously 1000's of suitable great Britons who match that description, who are much more deserving than mr. Turing who didn't really achieve that much.
GeorgeB reacted to Stanky in Stanky's fixerating of vehicles thread - exhaust issues 12/10
For now, no. I intend to do a thorough overhaul of the partially polished one and use that instead. That will be getting a brand new ICV but I will carefully grease the spindle with a cotton bud to give it the maximum service life when i fit it.
GeorgeB reacted to JimH in It is just so Super (Sentinel).
Things keep getting slower because you have to spend ages finishing things. When you first made a clevis pin it was just something to link one thing to another so you turn the pin up, pop it in the hole and use it to make sure everything works. In your mind it is finished. However, now you have to take that pin, machine the head, drill it out and tap it to take the grease nipple, make a collar for it and drill it to take the split pin. Nothing hard but enough to make a couple of hours disappear. As we go on you need to look harder at the pictures to see a difference.
For example here is one end of the handbrake operating rod. In this picture the pin has been finished.
In this photo it looks braodly similar. Only the sharp eyed would notice that the thrust collar has appeared on the cross shaft together with a little bit of shim. Again, not much difference but three or four hours gone in making the thrust collars and fitting the cross shaft bearing blocks so everything moves freely even when things start moving and twisting. Just need to make a nice shim now.
And here is the finished throttle valve which was "finished" ages ago. However, then you start buttoning it up and testing things you find that the valve buttin for the main stop valve isn't right because we misunderstood the design so you need to make a new one. The best part of a week of work went into finishing this off. This is it waiting to get bolted on. The only thing missing now is the lagging jacket and heat protector for your poor knee which sits next to it.
We've had a picture very similar to before but again, this is it finished and bolted back on. You would need to be sharp eyed to see that some poor sod stood at the bench for hours tidying everything up.
And at the other end everything looks nice and tidy now. This is the way that the fire is controlled. If you want to calm it down you lift the ash pan up and reduce at amount of air that comes in.
These are the reversing levers finished off but not painted. They were not too far off before but the reversing lever needed the detent spring made so it stayed in the right place. We also got lucky and some kind soul donated a brass plate showing the cut off positions.
Then you take a photo of it and notce that you forgot to machine the bolt markings off the clamp bolt. Something else to do. However, everything moves as it is meant to. Once we are happy with it it will be lifted off and painted as an assembly which was pretty much how it was done back then. These things never lasted that long so not much was wasted on coatings.
Yet another rod end finished off. Yes I know the bolts are all too long and the nuts are wrong. It is all on the to do list. The wing is only sitting on top of the wheel out of the way.
And this cover (the thing that has clearly been gas welded) stops rocks and larger wildlife falling into the camshaft control box. Not quite finished yet but it still took a few hours to get this far.
As if we didn't have enough to do we used to have two of these but some light fingered shite had away with one of them. This is the handle that works the exhaust drain valve and this is the one off the S4.
And this is the one that was made for the Super. Normally these are cast but we just could not be arsed tracking down the pattern that is available for them. It still needs the castelated nut and spring to make it look right. Still, it's pretty close to the original.
We got the superheater tails welded up (it's under a fair bit of load so you leave the TIGing to someone with some certificates) and now there is the nightmare task of fitting the supports and mounting it on the boiler top. This is one of the worst jobs of the whole project.
And we still plug through all the bits for the brakes finishing things off.
Boiler clacks finished and pressure tested. Incidentally, the testing is more than just a formality. When we pumped up the boiler outlet which was a new steel casting it showed up a minor fault in it so it had to be junked. There is a new one on its way from the foundry.
Finally for now here is the knackered cheek plate covered in wob and more wob.
Why? So I cover it with layers of this.
Why? Becuase I want to try to make one of these to see if it makes it easier to finish the cheek plates.We'll give it a go, anyway.
GeorgeB got a reaction from Stanky in Stanky's fixerating of vehicles thread - exhaust issues 12/10
Did you add some lubricant after cleaning with penetrating fluid? Might be worth it.
GeorgeB reacted to blackboilersuit in Blackboilersuits Bodging Blog
The Toledo still had sealed beam headlights and one of them blew on dip not long after I got the car. So what to do? Dolomite 1300 headlights are a straight swap and have a regular H4 bulb fitment. Downside is they are only available from Rimmers as a complete assembly with the back shell and cost £118 each! While not adverse to spending that much on car parts I didn't want to just yet as the headlamp mounting panels are 50% metal and 50% bran flakes and hope. I will address this in time but wanted a cost effective interim solution. Internet wisdom suggests Bedford Rascal headlights can be made to fit so I rolled the dice and spent £34 on a pair delivered to my door.
They are 10mm higher and wider than stock so the retaining rings and adjusters don't fit. They do fit perfectly straight into the bowls though and can be held in with a mixture of old and new hardware that still allows for a degree of adjustment for alignment.
The downside is that the front of the lens sits 30mm further back in the car than before so the bowl needs to be packed out from it's mounting panel on spacers.
It does look half devent (from a distance) though. While it was apart I rubbed down the grills and sprayed them with some generic silver wheel paint and polished the bumper.
Next up was to fabricate a wee bracket to hold some relays
....and wire the hi/low through them to take the strain off the headlight switch.
And there you go, nothing award winning and it's still a 30ft car but it's well enough done to last a long while and has functioning lights with replaceable bulbs. I even used lucas bullet connectors to tie into the existing wiring so no original parts have been hacked!
GeorgeB reacted to spike60 in The new news 24 thread
I planned to do some necessary fettling to the 2007 Merc E class daily this weekend but the suspension arm had it's post arrival date amended from 12/3 to 26/3 after being posted RM in the UK, the wheels weren't ready at the refurbisher as promised and the non vital impact gun battery pack took 5 days to send first class. Hmm. Won't be doing that then.
As we haven't seen a gritter for a week or so I fitted a battery on the old S class which has been hibernating since the end of October and brought it out blinking into the light and gave it a run out of about 10 miles. All was well, or at least as well as most 36 year old cars. It pulls like fook to the left, the headlining is saggy and it is a little tappety at warm idle, - exactly like it was when I put it away. Oh, and the aeriel now sticks. Here it is with 5 month old work grot and fresh garage dust, the camera lies a bit.
All looks OK in the Merc world after it's first run of the year.
One odd habit it has is the gearbox leaks when parked for a good while though it's fine in regular use. Two oil slicks on the garage floor (car was turned round after 3 weeks) from the winter though drive is clean when the car is use. Any ideas?