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Low Horatio gearbox

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Low Horatio gearbox last won the day on September 11 2022

Low Horatio gearbox had the most liked content!

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    Wonderful wet Wales (vallies)
  • Interests
    Cars of questionable provenance and quality, coffee, biscuits.


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  1. Aannnnnd long time no update - life's been busy/shit/something. The Rover finally had the bonnet put back on and made good 2 weeks ago. And in a fit of oh well may as well.. I swapped the reserve and main fuel lines over so that the rear electric pump now draws on the reserve line and have the full 15 gallon tank use instead of 13. Naturally after nearly 4 months the battery was flat and needed a charge, tho to be fair this was for the best as the brake pedal went to the floor with as much resistance as me saying no to cake. The root cause bing the remote booster seal weeping and allowing it to pull fluid thru and partially fill the booster under vacuum while draining the master reservoir. To be fair I've topped it up twice and it was gone over with a rebuild kit 4 years plus so it's not a super big leak. Stripped it all , cleaned an put backtogether and minor bleeding and braking has been restored. A rebuilt unit is needed, you can get cheap Chinese copy replacements for fifty quid but they are apparently utter crap. It is now back on thr Road and ready for use once it stops raining. The jag...... fired right up and bar checking tyre pressures and fluids was fine. There was an oh shit moment when it seemed the starter wasn't disengaging but this turned out to be a sticky key barrel . The weather has been utterly soaking and shit and combined with huge and exensive major roadworks means I can't be arsed having them look grimy or washing either of them after every use so they had a big winter lay up. Tho there have been a couple of dry days lately so it's done a tip run and the school run a few times.
  2. 2 2hilst browsing for chod I spied this. Frankly I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.
  3. Finally got around to ordering the diff seal and gaskets for the Rover as well as new wipers. The Jag continues to do its stuff. Tho with the massive amount of roadworks I'm loath to use it much atm
  4. The boiler not quite dying yet but it's on its last legs.
  5. Nice., Very. My first car was a 2.5 my auto did about 20 ish mpg A superb sounding and really understressed engine. The manual is a real rarity as well - I think thay barely made it into double digits with them fitted. From my reading Jag bought Daimler for purely production capacity. Both the 2.5 and 4.5 engines were better (imho) then the Xk 6 pot. There is the oft told story of a 4.5 being put into an XJ6 and out performing the straight 6 around the mira track, being substantially lighter then the honking big cast iron Jag lump. And that it woukdnt do for a a non Jag engine to be used .
  6. On holiday in Cornwall with the chiddlers, gf and her dad. We pass an RN base with a SeaKing guate guard. GFs dad casually while driving (who volunteered with the local mountian rescue) : last time I was in one of those it was over your hometown... sideways... with the door open
  7. None. Tax class change is easy as long as you have the right letter (which I apparently didn't twice - my error) otherwise umm buy "a good one" wich fits your needs (obvs). Make sure any adaptations work properly and or have been serviced/inspected if nessasary- hoist/lifts/ramps. I assume your changing it into the disabled/PIP/motability class? I think once its sold from motability /disabled user it is automaticallyally shunted to the std vehicle RFL class when thr v5 goes off. 2nd hand they carry a decent premium apparently.
  8. Fuck has it been a month? Between poverty, ill health and waiting to borrow tools - tho mostly its been me bening poorly (play the 🎻) 2 weeks ago I went under the back end - primarily to start rerouting the main and reserve fuel lines- or to swap them over for now as I can't use the last 2 gallons of reserve. The aim is ro put new lines in and remove the fuel reserve tap etc. While I was under there I investigated the drip/leak which it seems is the diff pinion seal , bugger. Tho the seal is less than 20 quid so I may do it while I have it on stands for the fuel lines. Tho that means really I should pull the tank and make sure its clean as the reserve hasn't been used on the 4 years I've owned it - impossible since i put the electric pump in the rear under the tank instead of badly on the inner front wing and I doubt in the previous 10 years either and I don't fancy sucking up a load of crud and fouling the carbs. I did manage to get a rivet gun of the FIL last week finally after 2 weeks to put the window trim back on, and the bonnet is for tommorrow.
  9. Been poorly (very) and sick since Tuesday either blinding headaches or awful stomach ache - tho last night I had both for 3 hours.
  10. So 30 mins if scrubbing and offering up the new screen seals away with the swearing I went... Ideally you'd have 2 people to do this but ofc why make it easy for myself. The seal should go in first and then the screen and voila! I found seating the seal on the screen then wiggling it into place roughly/far as I could and then taking a block of wood and rubber mallet to seat it as deeply as I could in its locating channel. This got it roughly in place and fixed enough to stop the heavy rubber falling down and out. Then it was just seat and worjk one side of the screen in as deep as i could and work across from one side to the other.. and repeat. This only took 2 goes side amazingly and it was seated firmly and pretty deeply. Not quite deeply to just do up the 2 screen jacks but close enough for me to use a spanner to lever both sides deeply enough until u could use the nuts as rover intended. Th3 main challenge here is to get the screen in tight but resist the temptation to really crank down on them and cracknthe screen. them it was just thr middle bracket to put in place and toghten up ya finally. Then the front scuttlw panel and wiper bungs and wiper arms.. et voila! Just the stainless brightwork to put back on now.
  11. Not yet. I should, but as its all in and running I'm loathe to take the pipes off just for the PAS. As its having a decent amount of work its no bigger considering the rad and alternator will be out for a week or two anyway. Anyway I finally caught up with this today - life - family and feeling like luke warm death keep slowing this all down 🤣🎻 I intended to put the screen back in, the seal thst is on it is a bit hard but not knackered. This is actuallya Sunday screen froma donor scarab blue car I got for £300. But I had new screen seals so why not... better clean this overspray and crap off...x Better for sure
  12. More activity. Well a 2nd lick of paint underneath and putting the wing back on. Simple bar the small bolt that holds the rear valance panel to the corner of the wing below the bumper which took 10 minutes instead of 2 because I refused to lie down on the floor for one bolt - it was cold and dirty! I've still got the rear lights to pug back in but I want to clean the connectors up first as well as improve a shonky ground for them, and I didn't fancy any electrical guff today. But I did fix down the demist vent rubber and put the dash top back in and make sure it was straight and flush. Or as good as I could get anyway, given there was a huge gap between the top of the dials and bottom of the dash top. It seems better but I called it quits before I put the binnacle plastic back on tomorrow when I can fettle it all when I'm less knackered. Comparison of good used rubber vs shonky knackered crumbly one. Yeah a bit fucked. Yes I will give it a good wipe down and clean before the screen goes in, which I hope to do tommorrow.. maybe. Next up is the more mechanical stuff. The rad needs recoring Alternator needs a new bearings Replumb the fuel lines. As its jot using its mechanical pump I've lost the use of the fuel reserve. Basically means there is 2 gallons of fuel unobtainable. Thst s amateur if swapping the line the electrical fuel pump under the tanks lugs into. But I want to run a new line from the tank to the carb and remove the file line switch valve in the engine bay. It weeps a bit and if you do pull the reserve tap you shut the fuel supply and as the valve is shonky it does treally like resetting without popping the bonnet and doing it manually. A good de grease and de oil of the underside of the engine bay and gearbox is on the cards As well as a dillmoil change And also resetting send improving thr handbrake wich will realistically only hold the car on level ground Most of those jobs can be done while the rad and alternator are being refurbished, funds pending. I would like to get the PAS lines replaced but they are a mighty expensive item in the region of 250 quid for the hoses and fittings. Mainly as the pas pump sits at the front passenger corner of the engine bay, the hoses then go across the front of the engine and then back to the steering box just in front of the driver, more hoses then go from the steering box across the back of the engine bay to the PAS reservoir which is in from of the passenger. Quite convoluted due to the suspension and steering box layout . When I do get round to the hoses Ican finally use the PAS pump rebuild kit ive had for 4 years. 🤦‍♂️ I will ask my mechanic friend if they knkw anywhere who can make a set up for less and also maybe neater as its a hodge podge of fitting and hoses that looks a bit cobbled together frankly.
  13. So this today was reassembly day.. or was it. I had a pile of parts waiting about - new screen rubbers and seals and a new to me used but good continental front vent rubber. The old one was cracking and brittle. However I didn't fancy cleaning up and putting it all back together yet and while it was alla bit messy and dusty I should ma6be prod the rear passenger corner of the boot. It was frilly long before I got it so maybe I should address it finally. While the rust are was all inside the boot it was jo bother to slacken 2 bold on the leading edge if the wing -hidden by the rear door, and remove 3 bolts at the rear - I spent more time looking for the spanners than removing it. with acces improved I proved and what looked to be a n inch by 3 inches of frilly rust was... more. Admittedly not much more but all along the seam where the floor behind rhe wheel well meed the wing. Pants. In an ideal world I'd replace the floor panel now it's available at not a horrendous cost (£35 ish). The issue being this corner has had some solid but less pretty repairs before - its all solid just not pretty, but to do the corner floor panel I'd need to unpick 3 other panels with repair sections. The floor to weeh well/tub join spalsh panel and wheel well extension as they all meet. And if your doing that muymay as well put them right. All the panels I need are available boot floor corner, inner wheel arch, wheel arch extension and splash panel and while not mega expensive I not inthe fincial position to do that right now . A d really I'd rather spend the money recoring the radiator, getting the alternator rebearing and sourcing a set of PAS hoses as mine are looking a but crap. So some basic repairs and advanced swearing it was. Mainly as the FILs welder dedided that today it didn't want to play games and between birds nests, pidgeon poo welds nd blowing holes i spent more time fettlin it than the Rover. I'm loath to blame the tools but the settings hadnt l been touched since yesterday and it continued to throw wobbles and drift as I was using it. Tho I will take blame for creating more work by slicing a few unintended slots in the floor while I was cutting away the grot 🤦‍♂️ Meh.. in the end its a area behind the spare wheel where I store the toolkit, jack warning triangle etc so it's rarely if ever seen - I should finish getting th3 boot carpet set (and uhh put carpet in the csr itself!) the wonders of a dustig of balck paint and tommorrow i can clean it up all the dust and start puti it all back together.
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