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juular

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  1. Like
    juular got a reaction from danthecapriman in Brownnova’s eponymous vehicle... It might be over for my Nova.   
    It's the perfect excuse to learn to weld. As others always say it's not the welding, it's all the messing around to get to the point of welding that's the time consuming bit. Note I didn't say difficult, because separately the tasks are pretty simple, it just takes 40 times longer than budgeted for when you put them together. For example I'd be taking the seats and carpet out from what I can see.
    Can you still get outer sill panels for these? That looks like the most annoying bit to fabricate. The rest would probably just be the odd bent bit of 1mm steel.
    Overall I don't think it's a full on resto project, probably about average for something that age.
    Get it fixed I say!
  2. Haha
  3. Like
    juular reacted to Tommyboy12 in Tommy's A-series Misery - Collection caper!   
    It's been a minute. There hasn't been a lot to report over the last month. I've been travelling with work so the fleet has sat mostly idle. I did enjoy a rather large F150 in Texas for ten days. It impressed me with it's sheer pace considering it's size. Apparently it was the 400hp twin turbo V6 version. Quick in a straight line but terrible ride quality. I did take it off-roading over the weekend and unfortunately it wasn't very good as it was only the RWD version with road tyres. But I still gave it a go.

     
    Roll forward a week to today and the sun has been shining today so I took out my MGF for a spin. Despite it being a rather rough example it doesn't look too bad in the rolling countryside. It isn't the quickest car with the CVT gearbox but it makes for a nice bumble round the country lanes.

     
    After I went out for a spin I set about some more welding. It feels like a long time since I last did any welding. Partly because it has been! But today I did manage to finish off the rear panel. When I took off the boot hinge panel the boot floor was also rusty. So I started by cutting all that out.

    Then replaced the central section.

    Then set about cutting out the other corner

    Unfortunately I made the mistake of not measuring twice and ended up cutting the panel too small as can be seen here... A bit of cardboard aided design helped fix that. Although I also had to cut out a bit extra due to thin steel.

    New panel under the rear light too

    Then onto the hinge panel

    Finished off with a lovely coat of brown direct to metal Hammerite

    And that's it for today! There's still a hole in the wheel well to fill which can be spotted earlier on in the pics but I ran out of time today. That'll be next weekends job as well as hopefully starting on the rear floors in the passenger compartment

  4. Agree
    juular got a reaction from Joey spud in Brownnova’s eponymous vehicle... It might be over for my Nova.   
    It's the perfect excuse to learn to weld. As others always say it's not the welding, it's all the messing around to get to the point of welding that's the time consuming bit. Note I didn't say difficult, because separately the tasks are pretty simple, it just takes 40 times longer than budgeted for when you put them together. For example I'd be taking the seats and carpet out from what I can see.
    Can you still get outer sill panels for these? That looks like the most annoying bit to fabricate. The rest would probably just be the odd bent bit of 1mm steel.
    Overall I don't think it's a full on resto project, probably about average for something that age.
    Get it fixed I say!
  5. Haha
  6. Like
    juular got a reaction from Scruffy Bodger in Brownnova’s eponymous vehicle... It might be over for my Nova.   
    It's the perfect excuse to learn to weld. As others always say it's not the welding, it's all the messing around to get to the point of welding that's the time consuming bit. Note I didn't say difficult, because separately the tasks are pretty simple, it just takes 40 times longer than budgeted for when you put them together. For example I'd be taking the seats and carpet out from what I can see.
    Can you still get outer sill panels for these? That looks like the most annoying bit to fabricate. The rest would probably just be the odd bent bit of 1mm steel.
    Overall I don't think it's a full on resto project, probably about average for something that age.
    Get it fixed I say!
  7. Like
    juular got a reaction from chaseracer in Brownnova’s eponymous vehicle... It might be over for my Nova.   
    It's the perfect excuse to learn to weld. As others always say it's not the welding, it's all the messing around to get to the point of welding that's the time consuming bit. Note I didn't say difficult, because separately the tasks are pretty simple, it just takes 40 times longer than budgeted for when you put them together. For example I'd be taking the seats and carpet out from what I can see.
    Can you still get outer sill panels for these? That looks like the most annoying bit to fabricate. The rest would probably just be the odd bent bit of 1mm steel.
    Overall I don't think it's a full on resto project, probably about average for something that age.
    Get it fixed I say!
  8. Like
    juular got a reaction from Jim Bell in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Electroshite.   
    Full disclosure, I used furniture connector bolts to keep the filters on which maybe wasn't the most technically sound idea, but it was the only ones I could get my hands on that were the right length.
    Today I replaced them with proper M8 long bolts and nyloc nuts which should hopefully last at least a week.

    Minor adjustment to the exhaust. The back box was smacking the old exhaust hanger bracket because the little strap that came with it was a miserable length.
    Fixed that by adding an extra bit of galv plate to drop it.

    Seems to do the job ok.
  9. Haha
  10. Like
    juular got a reaction from Dick Longbridge in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Electroshite.   
    Full disclosure, I used furniture connector bolts to keep the filters on which maybe wasn't the most technically sound idea, but it was the only ones I could get my hands on that were the right length.
    Today I replaced them with proper M8 long bolts and nyloc nuts which should hopefully last at least a week.

    Minor adjustment to the exhaust. The back box was smacking the old exhaust hanger bracket because the little strap that came with it was a miserable length.
    Fixed that by adding an extra bit of galv plate to drop it.

    Seems to do the job ok.
  11. Agree
    juular got a reaction from Clunk in Brownnova’s eponymous vehicle... It might be over for my Nova.   
    It's the perfect excuse to learn to weld. As others always say it's not the welding, it's all the messing around to get to the point of welding that's the time consuming bit. Note I didn't say difficult, because separately the tasks are pretty simple, it just takes 40 times longer than budgeted for when you put them together. For example I'd be taking the seats and carpet out from what I can see.
    Can you still get outer sill panels for these? That looks like the most annoying bit to fabricate. The rest would probably just be the odd bent bit of 1mm steel.
    Overall I don't think it's a full on resto project, probably about average for something that age.
    Get it fixed I say!
  12. Like
    juular got a reaction from Rust Collector in Brownnova’s eponymous vehicle... It might be over for my Nova.   
    It's the perfect excuse to learn to weld. As others always say it's not the welding, it's all the messing around to get to the point of welding that's the time consuming bit. Note I didn't say difficult, because separately the tasks are pretty simple, it just takes 40 times longer than budgeted for when you put them together. For example I'd be taking the seats and carpet out from what I can see.
    Can you still get outer sill panels for these? That looks like the most annoying bit to fabricate. The rest would probably just be the odd bent bit of 1mm steel.
    Overall I don't think it's a full on resto project, probably about average for something that age.
    Get it fixed I say!
  13. Haha
  14. Haha
  15. Like
    juular got a reaction from Sunny Jim in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Electroshite.   
    Full disclosure, I used furniture connector bolts to keep the filters on which maybe wasn't the most technically sound idea, but it was the only ones I could get my hands on that were the right length.
    Today I replaced them with proper M8 long bolts and nyloc nuts which should hopefully last at least a week.

    Minor adjustment to the exhaust. The back box was smacking the old exhaust hanger bracket because the little strap that came with it was a miserable length.
    Fixed that by adding an extra bit of galv plate to drop it.

    Seems to do the job ok.
  16. Like
    juular got a reaction from aldo135 in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Electroshite.   
    It got later and I annoyed everyone.
    Feels like it's added 30bhp, breathes so much more freely.  Not noisy either.
    Then it tried to chuck an air filter off on the motorway.
    Better bolts enroute. You'd think for 50 odd quid they'd include fixings..
  17. Like
    juular got a reaction from Crackers in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Electroshite.   
    Begone, pea shooter.
     

     
    Had to retap one of the threads on the head as idiot here used a wrong thread pitch manifold stud off another car.  
     

     
    CHONK PIPE
     






     
    It won't start now as I've fucked up the idle screws and choke position, and it got dark. So I'll have to wait till later to annoy everyone.
  18. Haha
  19. Like
    juular got a reaction from tooSavvy in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Electroshite.   
    Full disclosure, I used furniture connector bolts to keep the filters on which maybe wasn't the most technically sound idea, but it was the only ones I could get my hands on that were the right length.
    Today I replaced them with proper M8 long bolts and nyloc nuts which should hopefully last at least a week.

    Minor adjustment to the exhaust. The back box was smacking the old exhaust hanger bracket because the little strap that came with it was a miserable length.
    Fixed that by adding an extra bit of galv plate to drop it.

    Seems to do the job ok.
  20. Sad
    juular reacted to brownnova in Brownnova’s eponymous vehicle... It might be over for my Nova.   
    Since the Nova had been away on its hols I hadn’t heard anything. Today I did… 
    And it was a message I was not hoping to receive…

     Bollocks.

    The first pic was the bit I knew about, but the rest is quite the surprise as I had thought it was pretty solid. There was a video too which showed that there is a fair few bits in the floor pan and inner sills which would need new metal in. Plus all the work on the other bits which I had planned for.
    Sadly, don’t think my pockets are deep enough for this one. 😢
  21. Sad
    juular reacted to fatharris in FatHarris - tales of a motoring moron ***More engine work***   
    Ah, this has not gone according to plan.
    Started off well, with Phill letting me know that the engine stand I lent/gave to him many years ago was still with him and available to help me in my endeavours:

    I popped over after work to collect it and have a chinwag, eventually depositing it in the garage:

    Whipped the clutch and flywheel out - it's all a bit rusty from being sat, but there friction plate showed the clutch was a Valeo unit with plenty of meat left on it, so that's a few quid saved (Valeo kits were looking to cost around £110)
    Built the stand up and immediately discovered that none of my bolts were long enough to safely mount the engine. Quick visit to B&Q beckoned as it was past 6pm and everywhere else was shut. Their selection of M10 bolts was pathetic, with only one option available, and at 120mm it was way longer than needed, but that is easily dealt with by adding nuts to act as a spacer behind the bolt head.
    Thankfully, it has done the trick.

    This is a real bonus to have and will make life a lot easier for me during the disassembly. 
    A late tea meant there wasn't much done to the engine today. I whipped the sump off:

    And immediately turned the engine back upright to allow the residual pooled oil to drain out of the block.
    The sump had an bit of sludge at the bottom, but nothing concerning and nothing sparkly thankfully!

    I decided I didn't want to strip the engine any further as I wanted my son to see the internals of an engine for himself - good learning opportunity for him!
    Anyway, I cracked on instead with cleaning the sludge out of the sump which cleaned up nicely:

    Moved onto the sump gasket, using a Stanley blade to scrape the old one off.
    Which went well.


    Yep, the back of the Stanley blade went straight into the thumb, resulting in a tsunami of claret everywhere.
    Thankfully, it sorted of sealed itself enough to stop bleeding, when MrsH descended on it with steri-strips and tape.
    Popped back to the garage to lock up and saw the dirt line on the blade, indicating how far it went into my thumb.

    It's currently rather sore, unsurprisingly.
    Hopefully tomorrow will be better.
    Cheers.
  22. Haha
  23. Like
    juular got a reaction from Rust Collector in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Electroshite.   
    Full disclosure, I used furniture connector bolts to keep the filters on which maybe wasn't the most technically sound idea, but it was the only ones I could get my hands on that were the right length.
    Today I replaced them with proper M8 long bolts and nyloc nuts which should hopefully last at least a week.

    Minor adjustment to the exhaust. The back box was smacking the old exhaust hanger bracket because the little strap that came with it was a miserable length.
    Fixed that by adding an extra bit of galv plate to drop it.

    Seems to do the job ok.
  24. Like
    juular got a reaction from dome in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Electroshite.   
    It got later and I annoyed everyone.
    Feels like it's added 30bhp, breathes so much more freely.  Not noisy either.
    Then it tried to chuck an air filter off on the motorway.
    Better bolts enroute. You'd think for 50 odd quid they'd include fixings..
  25. Like
    juular got a reaction from mat_the_cat in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Electroshite.   
    Some more stuff tackled. Trying to keep in my head all of the things I thought about fixing while on the Rustival trip. Writing notes? How quaint! Just stay awake at night trying to sift through jumbled thoughts until 3AM.
    It would probably be good to sort out the broken headlights.  Brief recap. A few weeks ago I fitted a latching relay which allowed me to control the full beam entirely through the flasher stalk instead of the antiquated floor switch. This worked brilliantly until it didn't.  Turns out that £3 of Chinese "INDUSTRIAL CONTROL" electronics aren't suited for, you know,  anything.  So the PCB basically melted (it wasn't even carrying notable current).  Before the Rustival trip I simply reinstated the floor dip switch to get us on the road.
    Turns out I wasn't wrong to try and get rid of the floor switch because as soon as it got dark, I went to switch between main and dip on a dual carriageway and lost all headlights. We pulled into a layby, consulted the wiring diagram, and crimped a couple of wires together so that we had headlights (but no mains).
    Time to fix that permanently.  
    The solution here is to use a 'proper' relay, in this case one designed for an old VW bus / beetle. The relay number is DNI 0127. There are also Meyle and Durite equivalents, so they are easily come by.
    Step 1, remove floor switch and hurl it into the depths of the garden.
    Step 2, crimp spades on the end of the wires to the floor switch.  Also tee-solder the smaller red wire into the bigger one, as that's more structurally sound than crimping two wires into one spade.

    Step 3, RELAY

    Here is the pinout.

    And here is what that looks like in real life.

    Step 4 : Replace the fuse you blew because you forgot to disconnect the battery, and touched the permanent +12V against the metal dash. Oh wait, there's no continental fuses left..  

    So it turns out this lighting setup is even better than the one I set up previously with the INDUSTRIAL CONTROL relay.  
    - When the dipped headlights are off, the flasher stalk operates as a main beam flasher.
    - When the dipped headlights are on, the flasher stalk toggles the main beam on and off like a modern car.
    - The relay also serves the purpose of being a relay for both the mains, flasher and dipped.  So it takes away the load from the light switch, provides full current to the headlights (brighter!)  plus it means I can remove the flasher relay and wiring in the engine bay as it is no longer required.
    So far this seems a far more robust and efficient setup, time will tell.
    Engine and gearbox mounts replaced.  The gearbox one was particularly hanging and the propshaft was bouncing off the bottom of the transmission tunnel.

    A set of high performance air filters attached.  The purpose being twofold. The generic SU HS6 pancakes I had on would sometimes smack against the clutch master cylinder reservoir on hard cornering or acceleration.  I also felt they were strangling the engine as they were so thin and miserable looking.  These by comparison are offset specifically to fit the Amazon, and are significantly more chunky.

     
    Y THO   |  Y THO

     
    Test drove this and was quite impressed.  The wishbone poly bushes have sharpened up the steering a fair bit. The engine and gearbox mounts have changed the gearshifts significantly, and overdrive seems to snick on in a much more dignified fashion. 
    A little bit of the induction roar from the pancakes has actually disappeared, but it still sounds great when opened up. I'll take it.
    Next up, I'll be fitting the sports exhaust, more polybushes, and doing a number of electrical upgrades to make it more reliable.
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