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juular

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  1. Like
    juular got a reaction from Saabnut in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Electroshite.   
    You'll have to wait for the sound video because I just did this.



    The wiring on this was getting on my tits.  Had a lot of instances whereby things work but not quite all the time, or fuses randomly blowing.  The original factory wiring is shite. I have now ripped out EVERYTHING.
    You can see on the right here that the back of the fuel gauge stands in as an unfused positive terminal for almost everything under the dash including the wiper motor, indicators, heater fan and who knows what else, held on by a piddly 6mm nut. That is going to change.

    I present the main light switch. Again, unfused and permanently live, with the permanent live cut and twisted into the feed to the small footwell lights, from factory.

    The big feed to the wiper switch. Again, some dodgy chaining of big positive wires going on here.

    The circuits which are fused are run off a shitty engine bay fusebox which is riveted together, and the rivets are starting to come loose causing random dropouts. That and the small issue of continental/glass fuses being total shite and hard to come by when you need them most.
    Solution : bin off the fusebox in the engine bay, and run everything off a pair of blade fuseboxes inside the footwell.

    The fusebox on the left is the permanent live one, which will run the interior dome light, indicators / hazards, and headlamps.
    The box on the right will be ignition switched, but I am also going to add a main ignition relay so that the ignition switch isn't constantly handling all of the current running through the entire car.  I know it's designed to take it, but the switch (and key!) can get very hot and I'm just waiting on the contacts burning out, especially if I decide to add any more load in the future.
    The important thing is that everything is going to be fused, and that the fuses are going to be easier to replace when needed.
    I seem to be doing this all off the top of my head, WCPGW.
  2. Like
    juular got a reaction from Surface Rust in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Electroshite.   
    You'll have to wait for the sound video because I just did this.



    The wiring on this was getting on my tits.  Had a lot of instances whereby things work but not quite all the time, or fuses randomly blowing.  The original factory wiring is shite. I have now ripped out EVERYTHING.
    You can see on the right here that the back of the fuel gauge stands in as an unfused positive terminal for almost everything under the dash including the wiper motor, indicators, heater fan and who knows what else, held on by a piddly 6mm nut. That is going to change.

    I present the main light switch. Again, unfused and permanently live, with the permanent live cut and twisted into the feed to the small footwell lights, from factory.

    The big feed to the wiper switch. Again, some dodgy chaining of big positive wires going on here.

    The circuits which are fused are run off a shitty engine bay fusebox which is riveted together, and the rivets are starting to come loose causing random dropouts. That and the small issue of continental/glass fuses being total shite and hard to come by when you need them most.
    Solution : bin off the fusebox in the engine bay, and run everything off a pair of blade fuseboxes inside the footwell.

    The fusebox on the left is the permanent live one, which will run the interior dome light, indicators / hazards, and headlamps.
    The box on the right will be ignition switched, but I am also going to add a main ignition relay so that the ignition switch isn't constantly handling all of the current running through the entire car.  I know it's designed to take it, but the switch (and key!) can get very hot and I'm just waiting on the contacts burning out, especially if I decide to add any more load in the future.
    The important thing is that everything is going to be fused, and that the fuses are going to be easier to replace when needed.
    I seem to be doing this all off the top of my head, WCPGW.
  3. Like
    juular got a reaction from Jim Bell in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Electroshite.   
    You'll have to wait for the sound video because I just did this.



    The wiring on this was getting on my tits.  Had a lot of instances whereby things work but not quite all the time, or fuses randomly blowing.  The original factory wiring is shite. I have now ripped out EVERYTHING.
    You can see on the right here that the back of the fuel gauge stands in as an unfused positive terminal for almost everything under the dash including the wiper motor, indicators, heater fan and who knows what else, held on by a piddly 6mm nut. That is going to change.

    I present the main light switch. Again, unfused and permanently live, with the permanent live cut and twisted into the feed to the small footwell lights, from factory.

    The big feed to the wiper switch. Again, some dodgy chaining of big positive wires going on here.

    The circuits which are fused are run off a shitty engine bay fusebox which is riveted together, and the rivets are starting to come loose causing random dropouts. That and the small issue of continental/glass fuses being total shite and hard to come by when you need them most.
    Solution : bin off the fusebox in the engine bay, and run everything off a pair of blade fuseboxes inside the footwell.

    The fusebox on the left is the permanent live one, which will run the interior dome light, indicators / hazards, and headlamps.
    The box on the right will be ignition switched, but I am also going to add a main ignition relay so that the ignition switch isn't constantly handling all of the current running through the entire car.  I know it's designed to take it, but the switch (and key!) can get very hot and I'm just waiting on the contacts burning out, especially if I decide to add any more load in the future.
    The important thing is that everything is going to be fused, and that the fuses are going to be easier to replace when needed.
    I seem to be doing this all off the top of my head, WCPGW.
  4. Like
    juular got a reaction from Jim Bell in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Electroshite.   
    Full disclosure, I used furniture connector bolts to keep the filters on which maybe wasn't the most technically sound idea, but it was the only ones I could get my hands on that were the right length.
    Today I replaced them with proper M8 long bolts and nyloc nuts which should hopefully last at least a week.

    Minor adjustment to the exhaust. The back box was smacking the old exhaust hanger bracket because the little strap that came with it was a miserable length.
    Fixed that by adding an extra bit of galv plate to drop it.

    Seems to do the job ok.
  5. Like
    juular got a reaction from mat_the_cat in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Electroshite.   
    You'll have to wait for the sound video because I just did this.



    The wiring on this was getting on my tits.  Had a lot of instances whereby things work but not quite all the time, or fuses randomly blowing.  The original factory wiring is shite. I have now ripped out EVERYTHING.
    You can see on the right here that the back of the fuel gauge stands in as an unfused positive terminal for almost everything under the dash including the wiper motor, indicators, heater fan and who knows what else, held on by a piddly 6mm nut. That is going to change.

    I present the main light switch. Again, unfused and permanently live, with the permanent live cut and twisted into the feed to the small footwell lights, from factory.

    The big feed to the wiper switch. Again, some dodgy chaining of big positive wires going on here.

    The circuits which are fused are run off a shitty engine bay fusebox which is riveted together, and the rivets are starting to come loose causing random dropouts. That and the small issue of continental/glass fuses being total shite and hard to come by when you need them most.
    Solution : bin off the fusebox in the engine bay, and run everything off a pair of blade fuseboxes inside the footwell.

    The fusebox on the left is the permanent live one, which will run the interior dome light, indicators / hazards, and headlamps.
    The box on the right will be ignition switched, but I am also going to add a main ignition relay so that the ignition switch isn't constantly handling all of the current running through the entire car.  I know it's designed to take it, but the switch (and key!) can get very hot and I'm just waiting on the contacts burning out, especially if I decide to add any more load in the future.
    The important thing is that everything is going to be fused, and that the fuses are going to be easier to replace when needed.
    I seem to be doing this all off the top of my head, WCPGW.
  6. Like
    juular got a reaction from MorrisItalSLX in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Electroshite.   
    You'll have to wait for the sound video because I just did this.



    The wiring on this was getting on my tits.  Had a lot of instances whereby things work but not quite all the time, or fuses randomly blowing.  The original factory wiring is shite. I have now ripped out EVERYTHING.
    You can see on the right here that the back of the fuel gauge stands in as an unfused positive terminal for almost everything under the dash including the wiper motor, indicators, heater fan and who knows what else, held on by a piddly 6mm nut. That is going to change.

    I present the main light switch. Again, unfused and permanently live, with the permanent live cut and twisted into the feed to the small footwell lights, from factory.

    The big feed to the wiper switch. Again, some dodgy chaining of big positive wires going on here.

    The circuits which are fused are run off a shitty engine bay fusebox which is riveted together, and the rivets are starting to come loose causing random dropouts. That and the small issue of continental/glass fuses being total shite and hard to come by when you need them most.
    Solution : bin off the fusebox in the engine bay, and run everything off a pair of blade fuseboxes inside the footwell.

    The fusebox on the left is the permanent live one, which will run the interior dome light, indicators / hazards, and headlamps.
    The box on the right will be ignition switched, but I am also going to add a main ignition relay so that the ignition switch isn't constantly handling all of the current running through the entire car.  I know it's designed to take it, but the switch (and key!) can get very hot and I'm just waiting on the contacts burning out, especially if I decide to add any more load in the future.
    The important thing is that everything is going to be fused, and that the fuses are going to be easier to replace when needed.
    I seem to be doing this all off the top of my head, WCPGW.
  7. Like
    juular got a reaction from Jim Bell in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Electroshite.   
    Found a pair of rear bumper overriders for not much.

    I'll need to bin those bicycle reflectors and build a couple of housings for the original ones, which I have in a box here.


    I definitely won't be buying them at £80 each.
  8. Like
    juular got a reaction from Dick Longbridge in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Electroshite.   
    Full disclosure, I used furniture connector bolts to keep the filters on which maybe wasn't the most technically sound idea, but it was the only ones I could get my hands on that were the right length.
    Today I replaced them with proper M8 long bolts and nyloc nuts which should hopefully last at least a week.

    Minor adjustment to the exhaust. The back box was smacking the old exhaust hanger bracket because the little strap that came with it was a miserable length.
    Fixed that by adding an extra bit of galv plate to drop it.

    Seems to do the job ok.
  9. Like
    juular got a reaction from adw1977 in 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Electroshite.   
    You'll have to wait for the sound video because I just did this.



    The wiring on this was getting on my tits.  Had a lot of instances whereby things work but not quite all the time, or fuses randomly blowing.  The original factory wiring is shite. I have now ripped out EVERYTHING.
    You can see on the right here that the back of the fuel gauge stands in as an unfused positive terminal for almost everything under the dash including the wiper motor, indicators, heater fan and who knows what else, held on by a piddly 6mm nut. That is going to change.

    I present the main light switch. Again, unfused and permanently live, with the permanent live cut and twisted into the feed to the small footwell lights, from factory.

    The big feed to the wiper switch. Again, some dodgy chaining of big positive wires going on here.

    The circuits which are fused are run off a shitty engine bay fusebox which is riveted together, and the rivets are starting to come loose causing random dropouts. That and the small issue of continental/glass fuses being total shite and hard to come by when you need them most.
    Solution : bin off the fusebox in the engine bay, and run everything off a pair of blade fuseboxes inside the footwell.

    The fusebox on the left is the permanent live one, which will run the interior dome light, indicators / hazards, and headlamps.
    The box on the right will be ignition switched, but I am also going to add a main ignition relay so that the ignition switch isn't constantly handling all of the current running through the entire car.  I know it's designed to take it, but the switch (and key!) can get very hot and I'm just waiting on the contacts burning out, especially if I decide to add any more load in the future.
    The important thing is that everything is going to be fused, and that the fuses are going to be easier to replace when needed.
    I seem to be doing this all off the top of my head, WCPGW.
  10. Like
    juular reacted to Ronkey in Any interest in another Amazonian rescue? The welding continues   
    Whoomph! There it is.
    Inner arch now reconnected to the rest of the car: that feels like a massive milestone achieved. I made the lip continuous on floor repair by putting some copper behind and filling the gaps with mig wire and then grinding back. Gives a neat result. 
    Getting nearer to the oily bits with every hour now  
     
     




     
  11. Like
    juular got a reaction from GeorgeB in Unpopular Motoring Opinion Thread   
    Diesel engines of any arrangement sound better than any petrol I6 or V6.
    Bonus opinion.
    An I5 sounds way better than any V8.
  12. Like
    juular got a reaction from grogee in Shitefest Shropshire 12-14th July   
    Yes! That nice feeling when for the first time in your life, you are the target audience!
  13. Like
    juular got a reaction from loserone in Unpopular Motoring Opinion Thread   
    Diesel engines of any arrangement sound better than any petrol I6 or V6.
    Bonus opinion.
    An I5 sounds way better than any V8.
  14. Like
    juular got a reaction from PicantoJon in Unpopular Motoring Opinion Thread   
    Diesel engines of any arrangement sound better than any petrol I6 or V6.
    Bonus opinion.
    An I5 sounds way better than any V8.
  15. Agree
    juular reacted to Dyslexic Viking in Unpopular Motoring Opinion Thread   
    Mechanical diesel engines are the best engines and should be in everything and should still be a thing in cars.
  16. Haha
    juular reacted to chaseracer in Shitefest Shropshire 12-14th July   
    @Talbot's an expert welder, he would never* set fire to anything... 😉😁
  17. Like
    juular reacted to Dyslexic Viking in Shitefest Shropshire 12-14th July   
    I will give attending this a thought, but below are some of my thoughts about this.
    I've never been on a plane in my life and it scares me for some reason. Alternatively, it is about 3 days of driving each way, which is almost preferrebale, even as this would be hard. This is in hay fever season so my face might explode. I'm a very boring weirdo who is mostly used to socializing with a cat and I have some bad experience with events like this so unsure if participating in this is a good idea both for me and others. And I don't drink. And I am afraid that this is actually a dogging event.
    So will give it a thought like I said.
  18. Like
    juular reacted to chaseracer in Shitefest Shropshire 12-14th July   
    <insert similar offer here> 😁
  19. Like
    juular reacted to Flat4 in Sunday shenanigans   
    This should be a collection thread but as I haven't seen the car in person yet, watch this space! This will involve multiple modes of transport and quite tight timings to meet my outbound connections. Praying no delays or the whole thing will collapse.
    Obligatory breakfast pic.

    Ham sandwich coz I couldn't be arsed making bacon. Hot cross bun coz why not. Cold brew coffee which I hadn't tried before. Okay but weird after taste. 6/10.
    PC 0
  20. Agree
    juular reacted to Dyslexic Viking in Unpopular Motoring Opinion Thread   
    Iveco makes better vans than Ford and VW.
  21. Thanks
    juular got a reaction from mat_the_cat in What has two seats, a mid-mounted 6 cylinder engine, and a turbo? Time for windscreen number 5!   
    This has happened to me too,  I don't know how the shards manage to get through so easily. 
    I've started holding grinders almost sideways to keep the spark trail heading away from me, because I've noticed my specs with plastic lenses are covered with melted bits with embedded metal shards. I've been lucky it hasn't been worse.
    Glad you got it seen to quickly.
  22. Like
    juular reacted to catsinthewelder in Shitefest Shropshire 12-14th July   
    Don't be daft, we'd love you to come.  Direct trains to Shrewsbury from Birmingham airport too.
  23. Like
    juular reacted to mat_the_cat in What has two seats, a mid-mounted 6 cylinder engine, and a turbo? Time for windscreen number 5!   
    Well, that was a pleasant surprise! 20 minutes on the dot from entering hospital until leaving! Only a few minutes wait on a Friday night was not what I expected. All out now although a bit sore.
    The thing I can't  understand is how the spark got inside my goggles. It's not the first time, which I put down to coming through the vent holes. But these new googles have a convoluted path which should prevent that happening. 

  24. Sad
    juular reacted to mat_the_cat in What has two seats, a mid-mounted 6 cylinder engine, and a turbo? Time for windscreen number 5!   
    Big shout out to https://www.weldingdirect.co.uk/ who had a new control board on the shelf for a 10 year old Chinese welder, and only £26!


    Back to the LT, and I cut back a bit more of the pillar which had been thinned by rust. It's very little extra work to weld in a larger section, compared with battling constantly blowing through. I didn't want to use the whole repair panel though.

    Reason being to weld in the top it would be quite tricky welding in the roof gutter, and potentially difficult to seal well again afterwards. So I wasted most of the panel and just cut out what I needed. 

    Unfortunately I had to leave it there as despite wearing goggles I got something in my eye, so writing this post from hospital. 
     
  25. Like
    juular got a reaction from Back_For_More in Juular's Scandi Noir. Volvo C70, 240 &122. Cylinder bingo.   
    I have sorted the 240 problem by once again pretending I don't own it.
    On to the stalwart C70 which I forgot needed an MOT until the last moment.
    This car has been giving such little trouble I had to check what the previous MOT said.

    The steering rack play comes up every year, and it changes from steering rack to inner tie rods to one of the track rod ends depending on where I take it for MOT.  The car has the tightest steering of any car I own so I think there's nothing actually wrong there. Maybe the rack adjuster needs tightened a bit, but for now I'll ignore it.
    The sills were easy enough to sort. In fact I'm a bit annoyed they even made an advisory as there's nothing wrong with them. Simply, a tyre fitter has managed to fold over both seams of the sill.  But then this is the same place that failed a spotless 240 for DANGEROUS CORROSION because a rubber grommet was missing.
    Fixing that is just a case of straightening the seams with mole grips. Done.
    Last thing to sort was the small matter of the tailpipe having fallen off. Since there's no backbox on these it wasn't a big deal but I thought it was worth fixing.
    I fixed this by HAMMERING A BIGGER EXHAUST OVER IT.
    No, really, I found a bit of spare pipe that was marginally bigger than the exhaust and fit perfectly without evening having to cut it. And I just hammered it on.

    Let's see how that goes.

    Ah.
    Note how the steering rack play has switched to a track rod end this time, right as expected.

    They've done their time I suppose. Pair of new springs £35 and half an hour of work.

    I'm annoyed about the suspension arm advisories as I replaced them this time last year. 5 year warranty apparently. I'll test that!
    Anyway, good to get another year out of this beast, because I absolutely love it. No sign of anything major on the horizon either. Brilliant car.
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