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dc2100k

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Everything posted by dc2100k

  1. Haha no, it was one I picked up a while back at a bargain price and I wanted to get it assigned to one of my vehicles in order to properly take ownership.
  2. Bit of an update on this car, much neglected for the last month - as seems to have been her fate since 2009! The car is still in my pal's yard and the virus means my time off for fixorating is limited. I managed to pick up a running M44 engine with all ancillaries for £50, and a Getrag 240 gearbox with prop and 4.27 small case diff also for £50, so the drivetrain is starting to take shape. I also bagged a nice set of 14" basketweaves which is what the car would have come with originally. However, on my searches for a rollcage for the car I have been offered a complete running 318is
  3. I have sold two cars recently on FB marketplace and, whilst I had plenty of the usual '2500 cash tonight M8' messages, both cars sold within a week to the first (car 1) and second (car 2) person who viewed them. It was relatively* painless and was free. No phone numbers on gumtree or ebay timewasters and the audience is huuuuge.
  4. Yes R is late 76 early 77. I’ve never seen an R registered Imp though, and the ‘Caledonian’ run out special was on a P if I recall correctly.
  5. Another late-reg Chrysler group motor... R was 76/77 I think .
  6. dc2100k

    Mk1 mx-5

    The big risk you run not taking trims etc off (beside overspray) Is that you can get cracking/flaking where the lacquer stops behind the trim. If you have a bare shell you can paint and clear coat up to and over the panel edge; obviously this can’t happen with the trim on. If you do see this in time you might have to take the bits of trim off where it happens and sand the flaking clear coat back and make some local repairs. Not a huge issue unless it’s widespread. Your car will look smart enough unless you’re hoping for concours (I hope not for £800). Sometimes it’s better to pick
  7. dc2100k

    Mk1 mx-5

    That’s how you turn an £800 paint job into a £2000 paint job! And not before all the brittle plastics crack and fall apart and you start buying new bits of trim etc because none of them will go back on properly! And the the rear light wiring cracks and the rubber seals deform and... you get the picture.
  8. Like most ranges of cars within a manufacturer group there are platforms with lots of shared components. This car still has the 1400cc 75hp petrol motor (AUA) in it, but there is a sporty version of this engine (AUB) from a Lupo which has different cams and a different ECU with a raised rev limit that has 100hp. There is also a 1600 version from a Golf called a BCB which is the same block etc but is 105hp and drops straight in. If you really want power you can use the BCB bottom end with the AUB head, cams and ECU for about 125hp. My understanding is that the engine mounts etc are
  9. BACK FROM THE DEAD UPDATE: ON THE FLEET So I've done a major switcharound and got rid of both my ZR and my Landcruiser in the last fortnight. The RALLYCARYO! is still in bits and I need a runaround so I retook possession of the £130 Audi A2! Since I gave it to my mate he's put a 1600 in his A2 and this old girl benefitted from some of his mechanic's attention/cast off bits from his car. As of now she is actually running very nicely with only a slight external coolant leak to attend to. MOT until November at which point we will make a decision about her future. 1
  10. Alright so I got a bollocking for the last car I posted here so I’ll try a bit harder:
  11. Very little progress to report as I have been looking after the offspring and trying my best to do some actual productive work. I’ve been looking out for suitable drivetrain donors but they seem to be few and far between in the M42-engined flavour. I turned down a nice 318TI for less than £1k a couple of weeks ago as it was an Auto, I may come to regret that. I have bought another pair of axle stands in the meantime so hopefully one day next week I’ll raise her into the sky and get a good look underneath. I’ve got my garage lined up to pick her up next month and take her in for we
  12. So I have had a closer look at the 3M panel adhesive and it turns out that it is not flexible but is just a two part epoxy that is specifically designed for fixing roof skins etc. I think the Devcon steel epoxy putty will work exactly the same. I fixed the repair panel in place with a few tec screws to clamp it tight and then let it set. After it was cured I hit it with a 60 grade flap disc and it is completely solid, not going anywhere, and i'll prep it with body filler later. I will revisit this down the line, once the car is up and running and has a few hundred miles of flex on it but for t
  13. Once I’ve got the car watertight (there’s a leak into the boot via the tail light to sort out too it seems) I’m going to get it up on axle stands and have a good poke around underneath. The floors seem serviceable from what I can see but I haven’t tried to remove the sound deadening.
  14. I did look at getting some of the 3M panel adhesive but expediency won out and I had the Devcon Steel Epoxy to hand, and a large hole that was letting the rain in! I did consider it but I'd read about the concerns that cort16 raised and I just want the hole filled so the car is watertight and I can concentrate on the underside. I'm prepared to revisit this down the line.
  15. Isn't banger racing a contact sport ? The type of rallying I'm going to be doing is for production cars and can be done in an E30 cabriolet with no roll over protection if that's your thing! I'm more concerned about the massive sunroof panel next to the roof repair to be honest, I think that would be more likely to fall out in a roll. In any case, I'm still considering plating over the whole thing in 1.5mm steel riveted to the original roof skin, or perhaps the fibreglass roof skin that dome linked to previously.
  16. Yes it does but with 5 stud hubs. I think I’ll probably end up going 5 stud if I can find a suitable 318TI donor, but will stick with the existing 4 stud setup if I find an E36 318is donor or end up buying a drivetrain separately. The E30 is a lovely chassis but you are right they are no longer an affordable classic. I think the 325is has forged a course for the two door E30s and the 318is is a similar shell but obvs with a smaller engine.
  17. That would be great. I need a lots of miscellaneous parts. I hope to get pretty much the entire drivetrain out of a donor car but there are a lot of E30 specific bits I’m after. Off the top of my head: Interior: drivers door card (2 door black vinyl), rear seats, roll cage & reclining front bucket seats. Exterior: rear bumper mounting hardware, rear bumper rubbing strip, windscreen (maybe) Running Gear: screenwash system. Fuel tank and pump, Brake callipers and front discs, engine, gearbox & diff.
  18. Another two hours hiding from the wife and I got a little bit further with the roof... I managed to wind the solid sunroof panel back into place and fortunately it is pretty good and the headlining seems in decent nick too. Therefore I have elected to try and fix the existing roof skin first and if it turns out rubbish then I will plate with the 1.5mm steel sheet as previously planned. First step was to fabricate some small plates out of 1mm steel, fold them and then steel epoxy them to the underside of the roof skin and the side of the sunroof opening. I have left these to set now
  19. I did see that car and I was tempted for 5 mins as it’s cheap and local but what I need is quite particular, and that’s a 94-95 318ti, or perhaps an E36 318is, for the M42 engine and gearbox/diff combo. I’ve seen a few but they’ve all been autos and I need a manual.
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