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DirtyDaily's Achievements

Rank: BL Wedge

Rank: BL Wedge (5/12)



  1. I'd go to a different tester. I think a lot of the time it's in the prep. Just checking bulbs, visual check for bushes, shocks, brakes, tyres etc. There's always something daft that needs changing come MOT time
  2. Another vote for checking pcv system/excess crank pressure etc. If the oil starts to sludge then that typically blocks breathers and you end up blowing oil seals just like you described.
  3. That car had been claimed by the earth and it shouldn't have been disturbed
  4. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155128168214?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=1UQiCroLTO6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=tNh2MUatQgO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
  5. Had this belter whilst selling my jag. I initially blocked him as it all sounded like a scam and then I got that final message from someone else. "You will have a true friend in a normal way for many years". Impeccable
  6. Bit of a markup from 2 weeks a go. It wasn't selling at 18k
  7. Just a couple from my time selling a taxi spec e class merc on Facebook marketplace. I got £1400 in the end.
  8. Oh also the oil will be from the sump gasket. TADTS
  9. If it was an electrical fault that would almost certainly trigger the light so I would rule out the sensor. I would think it's a mechanical fault with the strut itself
  10. Should of mentioned this. These nuts are very prone to that happening. The best way to get them off is a 6 point socket and a hammer when the chrome separates from the nut.
  11. Heater matrix I suspect has gotten air in it from the coolant leak. Door locks and air con are unfortunate and annoying but not imperative. Four tyres are expensive but 4 wheels with decent tread can probably be had for the price of those sabres. Try disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it and possibly disconnect the electrical connection on the top of the strut. Got to get a bit cute with these cars to keep them going on the cheap. Keep the faith. These hunts of metal are worth saving if we can warrant it. If you do decide to get rid ill make you a cheeky offer.
  12. Oh. I'm desperate to help on this... the struts aren't difficult to change. The water pump is easy to change and inexpensive. Thing is its time and garage costs if you're not DIYing. When you get these high milers and they aren't worth anything it very quickly becomes scrap. If you want to save it I'm manchester way whatever way you get it to me.
  13. Whereabouts are you again?
  14. Possibly a bad shock absorber In the strut the electronic control isnt communicating with the strut but that would trigger the air suspension light. Is it both struts on one side that are solid or just one? If it's a rear strut I have 2 known good one spares. I had a similar issue where my suspension would drop on the rear when the car was parked and then pump up when you drove off. I got myself a diagnostic tool that can read all the modules and I reset the air suspension module and that cured it. I believe disconnecting the battery for a while could have the same effect but I would advise to park it somewhere level when you do it. Without getting my diagnostic tool on it I can't help anymore I am afraid.
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