Mr Pastry
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They did put a version of the PRV V6 in the Tagora, but not many were made - not sure we ever had them in the UK.
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A couple of things. Use a feeler gauge or even a bit of paper or thin card under the straight edge. Which of course works on the head also. When you have the head off - before you take the valves out, check with paraffin in the ports that they are actually sealing. They should be if you have ground them in, but you need to know definitely. Was the misfire evident when you first started it up, or has it developed since?
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- ford puma
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I think its a 1960 Fiat Abarth 1000 Zagato, the rear lights are Fiat 600 rather than VW, and the wheels also Fiat-ish? The signature is surely the photographer Maurice Rowe.
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MX5 fixer upper - thinking about buying one to sell on.
Mr Pastry replied to Bradders59's topic in AutoShite
I know nothing much about MX5s but quite a bit about welding, and looking at a few pics online, that is probably going to be a horrid thing to repair. You have to ask why the owner is selling it, if it is an easy fix. Why not find something nice to do in your spare time? -
The flat is where the cotter pin goes. The kingpin is fitted with the flat aligned with the horizontal hole in the static "ear." The cotter pin fits in that hole and has a corresponding tapered flat on it, so when tightened it wedges the kingpin in place. Cotter pin thus: The square black things in the kingpin kit are thrust washers and fit between the static and moving ears, above and below. If you think about it, the weight of the front end of the car is resting on the lower one.
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Just for interest, here is the setup on a 2CV. It all has to fit under the driveshaft. Grease nipple at the lower end of the housing, which has a plug to stop everything falling out, then the bushes are solid, not split. The kingpin is hollow so the grease goes up the middle, then out through the small holes. The pin is a driving fit in the suspension arm, so it really has to fit properly, and a BFO hammer and a Special Tool are usually required. Whereas on Mod 70 and others the kingpin is retained with a cotter pin, similar to an old school bicycle crank. Do not ever get involved in working on any of this kind of stuff. It's horrible.
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The countersunk hole looks to me like a machining centre - used to locate the part on a lathe during manufacture. Since the kingpin is solid (they are not always) you could not really put the grease nipple there, and access wouldn't be easy. I'll see if I can find an appropriate picture.
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Ah they do just look like steel with maybe some sort of lining or plating - deffo needs grease. It's a split bush, so it will tighten up when pressed into the housing which is a slightly smaller diameter. All being well, that will give you the close running fit on the kingpin.
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Interesting that your bushes are lined with something - maybe PTFE, perhaps that goes back further than I thought. Is that rust on the outside suggesting steel? Traditionally just sintered bronze, or sometimes a steel outer sleeve with a bronze inner. Though FWIW the 2CV has plain steel kingpin bushes. The bush is (or should be) a tight press fit in the housing, which is enough to stop it rotating. Then the kingpin is a running fit inside that. So it all has to be made to fine tolerances, and pattern parts are not always, which can be very frustrating.
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Not sure I understand the question - the bushes you have linked to look like a modern equivalent to me - though would not be PTFE lined in the olden days, nor would you necessarily want that. AC probably took the view that the bushes could be changed fairly easily when worn, so did not bother with grease nipples. Of course the pin wears as well, so usually you would change the whole lot. Different situation on some vehicles where the bushes are undersized and have to be reamed to fit. The grease nipple Zel has arrowed appears to be on a suspension pivot rather than the kingpin. To provide grease to the kingpins you would have to drill and tap the housing level with the centre of each bush to accept the nipples, and drill a mating hole through the bush itself so that the grease gets in between the pin and the bush. Not telling your man how to do the job - I am sure he knows that.
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Sintered bronze bushes, which are porous and will retain grease or oil. Very common in all sorts of machinery, but perhaps a bit marginal for something as heavily loaded as a kingpin. They will almost certainly last longer if greased regularly, so it's well worth adding some grease nipples if possible IMO.
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Sorry mate, just saying. And you only have to take the pedal off, not the whole pedal box. But you clearly don't need my ideas, so I will delete my posts and leave you to it.
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Interesting tractor. But check out the video - It appears to have a Simca Aronde Flash engine!
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Looking at those prices though, the Gilbern was a serious amount of money for what it was. It's surprising they sold any when you look at some of the competition.
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Lotus/Marina door handle story, which I may have told before, but worth repeating. I rebuilt a JPS Esprit with the said handles. The passenger door would not lock. Pulled it to bits, nothing wrong with the lock assembly or the handles, and it looked as though nobody had been inside the door before. Experts will know that the inner handle is connected to the lock by a piece of stiff wire, bent to form hooks at the ends. I came to the conclusion that the wire was about 1/2" too long. I shortened and reshaped it, and all was well. It must have been like that from the factory, the lock had not worked properly since day one, and that was a 30 year old car.
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The front suspension is interesting:
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I've always thought these had a good specification on paper- decent mechanicals and quite ahead of their time, but they seem to be unloved. It's difficult to assess how they were viewed in period, as contemporary road tests were usually very bland, and of course they weren't really British so couldn't be any good. Somebody on here I think had one, but didn't speak highly of it iirc. I should think parts supply would be very difficult now. And they did, and presumably still do, rot.
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The bypass oil filter used on a lot of ye olde side valve engines was one of these: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/375280251583? Canister bolted to the cylinder head, containing a non replaceable element with two unions for hose connections to the oil system. So you would bleed oil off the main gallery with a union at some point upstream of the pump, filter it, then return it to the sump via another union in the crankcase. The return flow has to be restricted to maintain oil pressure, so it is not very efficient, but it does work. There are various ways of doing this with modern components but it gets quite expensive, and may involve drilling and tapping holes in the engine if there are no suitable fittings. So it is not a five minute job - maybe best done as part of an engine rebuild.
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Didn't the Tempest also have a wonderful flexible propshaft, basically a wire rope, to allow a low floor?
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Don't let them bully you.
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That sounds as though you have been "reported" by a busybody neighbour who has nothing better to do. There's always one. Do you know who it is? Best not to respond, imo. Engaging with the council is likely to make things worse. They can easily check that all your vehicles are registered to you, so clearly you are not repairing them for others. Let them work it out for themselves.
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That looks to me like the puller for the earlier type of hub which has an integral brake drum. Not sure what you need for yours - I assume something that fits on the wheel studs - the earlier hub/drum wasn't strong enough to take a pull on the studs and the puller located in a groove around the hub centre - so I'd suggest a bit more research. I am not a Trabant expert btw - I have worked on them, but (unlike everyone else apparently) think they are best avoided.
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Cars, Lasses and Lads - A Photo Sharing Thread
Mr Pastry replied to Dick Longbridge's topic in AutoShite
Looking at the bonnet line and rear overhang as well, quite possibly Beetle based. Quarter windows also look familiar. -
Cars, Lasses and Lads - A Photo Sharing Thread
Mr Pastry replied to Dick Longbridge's topic in AutoShite
Automobile Une homme en vespa regarde une voiture garée dont les côtés sont recouverts d'une résine la protégeant des rayures, à Munich, Allemagne en avril 1935. (Photo by KEYSTONE-FRANCE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images) Maybe Munich, but certainly isn't 1935!