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Alan Prost

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Posts posted by Alan Prost

  1. Just now, Alan Prost said:

    Localish to me and I loved the colours, I could cope with the farm look but not for what they are asking!

    And the stick 🙂

  2. 22 minutes ago, FiatPhil said:

    Please can we have some pictures when you get it.

    Does it have the parcel shelf with integrated storage compartment?

    Sure I’ll update once I get it here!

    I think it had the storage parcel shelf, too busy looking for damp in the boot!

    only downer is a crap bmw detachable tow bar which looks crap, but not bad enough to break a deal based on its other virtues!

  3. 2 minutes ago, spartacus said:

    Not my favourite shape of BMW, but then, I'm not buying it. Definitely from the era when they still made good solid cars though, lovely engine too. I think you've made a good decision!

    It come down to engine and performance, I can’t afford a pug gti, but this has that same engine too big for what now seems a small car feel, a lot of bang for 800 notes but of course with marmite looks!

  4. 9 hours ago, hennabm said:

    I considered one - but due to reports similar to those found in this thread I decided against it.
    Instead I bought the X5 3.0i.
    All I can say is that some of the issues are the same as they are very much the same underneath. Electrical issues certainly are a bugbear, rear air bags and BM54 module.
     

    Even though mine is only a straight six the mpg is around 16 - 24mpg. The V* version from BMW is around 8 - 14mpg. 

    Old 4x4s of the era, by the time we get hold of them will have been neglected and maintained only by distress. This of course leads to some of the issues then encountered. Like me, it then takes time and  money to sort.

    The return is a lovely driving position and a good solid car beneath you and the noise of the car - especially if a petrol V8.

    You pay your money and take your chance. Just try to find the best you can for your budget.

    On another twist I am now looking at a 325ti, total opposite to a P38, it's just dealing with the risk which in turn equals money.........

  5. On 1/4/2021 at 2:52 AM, 124Cab said:

    I have a 98 BMW 6 cylinder 2.5 manual in Rioja red which I love dearly and intend on keeping a very long time. It's one of the better ones and I specifically chose a life long national trust member poverty spec car with manual cloth seats, manual gearbox, no wood cappings on the doors etc etc. Full history. Yarnolds Land Rover dealer number plates. Been tucked away most of 2020 but will get it out of hibernation when lockdown finally does one for good.

    It's been converted to  coil springs which I see as a must if you want no fuss and drama in your life. It's bit rolly poly in comparison to air ride but more akin to the many RR Classics I've had, which is no bad thing.  Just my opinion!

    Fitted Y2K lights and Hurricanes but have kept the gingercators and 16"s in the garage for a rainy day.

    I average just shy of 30mpg (real)/(34mpg trip computer) on mixed driving, much of which is down to the manual gearbox I'd imagine. R380 Disco/Defender type. Quite agricultural but that's what gives it character.  BMW 6 cyl unit really sings with the manual gearbox as you can hang on to the gears. Fitted with a PSI tuning chip which helps performance quite remarkably but apparently these ruin the already weak autos when fitted. 

    HVAC system is simple enough once you commit to chopping a good part of the inner center console away for ease of access. Same goes for matrix o rings.

    BECM rebuild is a few hundred at various specialists now.  Old school tech, nothing scary.  Quite a few people now specialize in these. Bugger when it goes but easily fixed and plug in. 

    I've turned off my immobiliser and alarm at diagnostics level so have old fashioned keys with no chip/remote locking or drama now. It's now not endlessly checking itself and not not going to sleep when left for a week plus. £11 to cut a replacement no chip key blank as opposed to £250 from LR for a remote flip fob (they won't supply a valet key any longer). I have other forms of security before anyone chimes in 😉

    I can cope with the electrical niggles as I'm not welding the bugger every 6 months! Ask me how I learnt that the hard way...

    My father always ran these when I was young and has two currently, one at 210k and its replacement on 125k. He estimated the 210k car cost him five grand over eight years he ran it for to keep reliable, and on air, which I think wasn't too bad considering how much these things were when new. He swears by them as they are supremely capable for living in the middle of the remote countryside.

    I'd recommend you choose wisely and do it before they start to rise in value, which inevitably they will looking at almost everything else LR related.

    Mine has not yet nor imminently looking to financially ruin my life. Learn how to be handy with a spanner and get the appropriate software and you're already ahead of the game.  

    For perspective I paid £1200 for mine so the overall risk is minimal. Price me up an R plate Defender TDI or perhaps a late N plate sofdash RR? Both absolute bastards in their own ways and hugely expensive to buy, run and maintain. 

    I'd love a V8 but I've not got shares in BP!

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    Just the sort of thing, non leather and a stick.... love it!

  6. On 1/4/2021 at 12:57 PM, Broadsword said:

    I'm very jealous of your cloth seats and manual gearbox. Wish mine had them!!! I actually covet a P38 DT, but I haven't been able to find a decent one that is as reliable as my DSE auto.

    As an owner of a P-plate 2.5 diesel auto for well over two years now and 3 MOTs, they can be made good and reliable, but it is a commitment. First thing is to buy as good as possible an example you can get. Spend more buying a good one and I guarantee you will save money almost immediately. The chassis is very thick steel on the P38, totally unlike the Discovery 1/2 (which will actually snap in half), so rot isn't a real concern. With the diesel look out for injector pump issues. Other than that it is really the electricals and air suspension to be look out for.

    To get mine reliable it took a new starter motor, new alternator, a damn good service, new viscous engine fan, chasing down small electrical gremlins, gearbox service and crucially the often ignored failing in-tank fuel pump. If you see air bubbles in the clear fuel lines in the engine bay, it could be indication of the in-tank fuel pump failing. People seem to rush to rebuilding the injector pump first though, which had been done on mine prior to me buying it. I also highlight the importance of having the correct lead-acid battery to help these run well. The various modules in the car are very sensitive to voltage drops and the alternator will not charge a silver-calcium type battery properly. Often people fork out for a fancy expensive battery and the car just kills it slowly. A big plus is if like in the post above the immobiliser has been disabled at a software level, it will save you a great deal of hassle. Most want a BeCM rebuild by now also, which mine has had done already

    If you are keen there is a wealth of knowledge and they aren't actually horrible to work on.

    I do some videos on the P38 for my little YouTube channel. Here is a brief buyer's guide type thing, which you may find useful:

     

    Already watched this a few times so thanks!

  7. Got an itch for one of these, as I now have a Nissan Leaf, so fancy one as our second car / dog walker/ getting muddy/ workhorse. Would not be doing mega miles but prefer the 2.5d flavour.

    Please tell me if they are as bad as they say or if they are OK as a hack, seen one on an 98 plate with 215k with good history on MOT check, sadly has newer alloys but i'm sure that it would not cost much to get back to less blingy!!

    Let me know your thoughts....

  8. Well not quite as planned, the wife has been after a leccy car, and as the good season is upon us I ended up looking and then buying one, this means that my Audi A4 will become second car and the Camry is suddenly surplus, there is nothing wrong with the car, drives faultless, has a bit of a dodgy rattle can on the OS doors but not bad from 15 ft.

    I have installed a toyota cassette player so the glow at night matches the rest of the dash, also still have the JVC if you would rather pop it back in.

    Loads of history, drives a treat, MOT until August.... just looking to recoup the 500 notes I spent on it!

  9. cam5.jpg.ae9c391c18a67e78d84c842c7f45b008.jpgcam3.jpg.35b0bc0c02fb307ce0611a310d1fc1f4.jpg1189638333_cam4.jpg.20363ee36189e538ff97c8a7f43ac48b.jpgcam2.jpg.d009c2f93eea53432c2eb50bebaa1d42.jpgWell turns out its a small world, it was for sale by a trader a few miles from my village, turns out I knew him and he was keen to make space as it is not his usual thing as was a PX against a posher newer v6 camry.

    Took it for a drive and everything works, its had the multi changer pulled out and an after market stereo, i'm not bothered about the CD player but a shame the factory look dash has been disturbed.

    Insides are very clean, although it needs a  general clean, outside has a few giffer marks, but all in all good and drives without fault.

    So I am now the proud owner of a giffer green camry, the guy I got it off reckons it owed him £500 as that's what he gave the gent, so let me take it for that. all in all pretty happy!!

     

     

  10. 22 hours ago, Alan Prost said:

    Big Corolla, think I'm going to take a look, just waiting to hear back on cambelt evidence.......

    Hmmmnn cambelt done, running out of excuses other than the fact that i'd like it for alot less money!!

  11. 11 hours ago, Spottedlaurel said:

    To be honest, I really can't think of anything specific. Have you looked at the MoT history of it online, there's nothing too scary there.

    It'd be good if the cam belt and water pump have been done relatively recently.

    Try and get feel if the the wheels all rotate freely, to make sure you haven't got a sticky caliper somewhere.

    My Sport had a bit of rot in the door from a former accident repair, otherwise this generation doesn't seem to rust much.

    I used mine on several trackdays, it acquitted itself remarkably well:

    Camry on the track at RAF Marham #3

    Like I say, you need to own one for a while to get what they do and how they do it so well.

    You'd have to get a previous-gen model like mine, they did do an estate of the next one but it was a bit more swoopy and not sold as widely.

    Looked at MOT history, nothing scary!

  12. 11 minutes ago, Spottedlaurel said:

    Hmmm, what to say?!

    I've had a 2.2 Sport version of this generation, and four of the previous-gen including three 2.2s (one of which I still have on the road, I used it just yesterday). I've had one or another on the road for most of the last 14 years (sometimes several at the same time).

    Parts are expensive when they're needed, but it's a 1990s Toyota so you shouldn't need them that often. Get half-decent parts by Blueprint or the like if you can. I imagine it would be possible to get some parts from the USA, but I've always managed to work something out here so far.

    Brake calipers can need freeing-off if the car hasn't been used for a while.

    Masses of room around the 4-cyl engine making for easy maintenance/replacement.

    The 2.2s in particular drive very nicely. They're the sort of car you need to live with to appreciate how good they are. The engine has decent torque low down but continues to rev well (mine sounds positively sporty with a full stainless exhaust system).

    I saw that one on eBay a day or two ago and it struck me as a fairly honest old thing. At that mileage it should loads of life left in it yet. Wuvvum had my first estate off me and took it over 200k miles, I only took it off the road because of a few niggling things, nothing fundamental and it still drove well until the very end (I had it back for spares).

    Ah pleased you clocked that one, anything I should look out for on inspection?

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