Justwatching

Isn't that unlawful now? Quote from the Financial Conduct Authority website (published Dec 2021): "From 1 January insurers will be banned from quoting customers a higher price for renewing their home or motor insurance than they would pay if they were a new customer.

Got the prop shaft out of the Mustang on Sunday to replace the universal joints. It had developed what feels like a driveline vibration during acceleration, mostly between 30-45 MPH. Quite speculative as I didn't actually confirm the fault before ordering parts, but they weren't expensive so I just added them to the order for the front shocks. Unfortunately, everything put up a fight, so this took me most of the afternoon. I'll continue to sing the praises of my new lift though. It made removing the prop and getting it back in a relatively comfortable experience. Got the new joints in and put the shaft back in the Mustang. I tried to top off the rear diff which didn't go well. My pump wouldn't pick up the oil properly - the vacuum kept collapsing the hose and pinching itself off. I know it's thick oil (80w90), but I didn't expect that. Then I knocked the oil over and made a mess. Decided to call it a day as my patience had run out. In other news, I was given a key replicator a few months back. I made a spare key for the Mustang easy enough but my first attempt at a DeLorean key didn't turn out great. It worked, but only if you jiggled it. My second attempt is much better and works perfect. It's worry off my mind to have a second key.

Link below. Manufacturer says 473mm lift height. Next time it's raised I'll put a tape measure against it and see. It was enough room for me to go under the Mustang on a creeper, lower the prop shaft onto myself and scoot back out. You can buy height adapters if you want a bit more lift, but I don't think they're necessary. Plus I'm working in single storey ceiling height and don't want to crush anything. The pros I see in this lift are that it runs on household single phase electric, you don't need an air compressor, it can lift anything I own (or likely to own in future) and leaves completely clear access down the full length of the vehicle unlike other mid-rise scissor lifts. They also don't take up much space storage wise. About the only con I've found is the weight. They're marketed as being portable - like fuck! You'd do yourself an injury trying lift them into the back of car/van. Luckily I didn't buy them with that intention. E4G Kwik Lift Range (garageequipment.co.uk)

I massively treated myself this Christmas and bought these: I've wanted them for ages but something else always needed the money first. I spent the money quick this time before anything else had a chance! Access is excellent - much better than I've ever achieved with a trolley jack and axel stands. Right, so first job was replacing front shocks on the Mustang. It's relatively simple - There's two large bolts securing the lower knuckle of the shock absorber to the wheel hub. Painted an alignment mark and removed a bracket for an ABS sensor (I think). The top nuts proved to be the hardest part. A blow torch and impact wrench got the job done after wasting some time with a screw driver, ring spanner and penetrating fluid. Turned the impact wrench on the lower two nuts and out it comes! I know a McPherson assembly would be more space efficient, but I really do prefer having the shock and spring separate for ease of maintenance. Transferred some hardware from the old shocks and put the new ones in. I've got some prop-shaft joints to go in the Mustang next but decided to leave it there for today. I've been thinking about selling the Mustang tbh; it doesn't have an obvious purpose in my fleet. If you're interested, say so. In other news, the Jeep is now on the road. I still don't like it on those steels, but don't have funds to refurbish the alloys and get a new set of BFG All-Terrain's (which are painfully expensive - just over a grand for five of them fitted). Pez shot.

Have we had a Vectra hearse? One for sale on FB. Marketplace – 2005 Vauxhall Vectra | Facebook

1959 Cadillac Series 62 in 1:64 by M2. It's my first M2 model, so something new for the New Year! It comes on a display stand with acrylic case which makes it feel a bit special. Opening doors and bonnet with no unrealistic gaps or unaligned panels. I was also pleased to see slot and screw construction which made disassembly easy. My only complaint is lumpy rolling caused by deformed tyres and poorly finished wheels.

My last minishite of the year - a 1:24 scale Back to The Future DeLorean by Jada. It's the Part II version with a 'food blender' Mr. Fusion. Got given it last Christmas - obligatory for a DeLorean owner. Jada do all three versions. I've got the first version somewhere. Appropriately, it lives atop of my flux capacitor next to my computer.

Gave the lightbar a quick coat of primer to stop rust forming. Test fit went well. More prep work before top coat though. Also got the rear fog lights finished on the Jeep. Next, I turned my attention to the Mustang's broken odometer. The electric motor that drives the odometer had a worm gear with broken teeth. The plastic disintegrated as soon as I put any pressure on it and came off the shaft in pieces. Got a replacement gear set from the US. Used a bench vice to push fit the worm gear onto the motor shaft. The next gear is mounted in the plastic assembly that houses the odometer and just snapps into place. A bit steep at £45, but at least the parts are available. Success! It moves!

Ford Mustang (SN-95)

Eyesore Crown Vic. Such a naff attempt. Marketplace – 1995 Ford Crown Victoria | Facebook Something very wrong with the rear axle, too.

Auto World 1974 Dodge Challenger For comparison, I also have a 1970 model from Auto World. Note the change in grill design and headlight surround. Also, the bumper over-riders to comply with 1973 US crash standards. At the rear, the long and thin tail lights of the '70 model are replaced by four rectangular light pods. Again, note the "5 MPH" bumpers which were mandated on the rear for 1974.

Johnny Lightning do a '78 Monte Carlo. Greenlight also do a Monte Carlo, but earlier model years (circa '70-'73).

1 owner Proton Wira Marketplace – 2001 Proton Wira lux | Facebook

Same issue with my Mustang. Is it common for yank cars? A friend repaired the odometer for me, but it broke again. Hopefully yours holds up better! I've ordered a new drive gear which should arrive in the New Year.

1964 Plymouth Barracuda (Auto World). I think it's supposed to be a dealer display vehicle to demonstrate various colour options on the car.

Tinkering update on the Jeep: put some flexible conduit on the fog light wires to tidy appearances and hopefully give the join some protection. I've also installed wiring for a second fog lamp on the rear. The body is pre-drilled for two fogs, but only one was supplied (minimum UK compliance, I guess). The wiring loom passes right behind the mounting area, so it's a pretty easy job. Had a bracket made too, which I marked up and drilled this morning. Just waiting for the paint to dry. Also had a lightbar fabricated. It needs some prep work, especially where the tube has been joined and ground down in the middle. I also need to get a CB antenna tie-down sorted for it. Finally, replaced the jacking kit as the ratchet for the original was broken. It's generic/universal one, but the whole kit was half the price of getting a second-hand OEM ratchet.

Haven't posted on this thread for months. Didn't curb my miniature shite habit though, just ran out of space in the display cabinet. I've become a 'new-in-box' collector as a result and stash them away in a suitcase. Amassed quite a few now, so I'll start sharing some of 'em. First out the suitcase, a 1981 Chevrolet Citation X11. Supposedly 1:64 scale, but it's a Johnny Lightning, so take that with a pinch of salt. Looks on the generous side of 1:64, unlike their Cadillac ambulance which is definitely on the small side. The tyre width is also way out of scale (again, typical of JL). Strang as Johnny Lightning is owned by the same company as Auto World, and their scaling is bang on. Scale issues aside, it's a really nice model with well executed detail (both painted and moulded).

Changed the brake calliper slide pin boots on the Jeep as they'd turned hard and started to split. Changed the tyres for similar reasons. The Jeep came with a spare set of wheels when I bought it - steel rims with a mis-matched set of tyres (BF Goodrich on the rear + spare, Goodyears on the front). They're 14.2% less perished, so I'll use them for now. They do bring down the appearance a bit though.

Finally got the intake/exhaust gasket installed and put everything back together. Also got a new serpentine belt on. Oddly, none of the belts that are supposed to be for a Wrangler fit. I ended up buying something longer. I suspect the alternator bracket has been replaced with something non-standard. Thankfully, idle has returned to normal 800 rpm and nothing seems to be leaking! Purchased a universal battery clamp. Turns out it's not entirely universal and required modification, but it fits now. Next, I wired up the front fog lights. Having doors that lift out the way proved quite handy when routing wires at awkward angles under the dash.

Whoops, forgot the Saab! Had my 9-3 estate for just over five years, but sold it for scrap in the summer. A good workhorse, but pretty unremarkable otherwise.

IN: OUT: CARRIED FORWARD:

Got a new intake/exhaust gasket for the Jeep. I've prepped the surfaces, I'm just waiting on a hardware kit as it was missing two spacers that go on the end studs (yet more corner-cutting by whoever worked on it last). Also gave the battery tray some paint to slow down the rust. The battery was held down by zip ties (surprised the fucker didn't use silicon sealant like everything else!). I'll get a proper clamp sorted. Headlights on the Mustang are ineffective for such modern* car. I tried one of those headlight restorer kits. It worked alright, certainly got all the yellow haze out of the plastic. The headlight units condensate inside which doesn't help. I'll know more when I take it for another night drive.

Chevrolet Captiva?

Sure one of these was in the film 'The Guatemalan Handshake'.

Update on the Jeep... Got the water pump reinstalled with a new gasket. Upper and lower hoses replaced with new. New thermostat + gasket, too. Decided to put the recovered coolant through a fuel filter and reused it as seemed a waste to throw away new coolant. I order a new idler, but reused the existing one as it's in serviceable condition. Received the wrong serpentine belt, so the old one is back on temporarily. Changed the engine oil and filter. Also changed the front diff, gear box and transfer case oil. All fluids replaced except brake fluid at this point. Started it up and got treated to a new problem - high idle (about 1,100 rpm compared to 800 previously). So, I started spraying around the engine bay looking for a vacuum leak thinking I might have dislodged a vacuum line or something. The only leak I could find was at the intake to cylinder head join near cylinder 4, which wasn't what I was expecting (or wanted). The intake and exhaust gasket are one piece, so both have to be removed. There's also a lot that needs disconnecting and moving out the way first, but eventually I got the fuckers out. And guess what - no gasket here either! No wonder it leaked. I'm just surprised it didn't leak worse. The car has been worked on by a right bodger and the invoice history actually suggests this was done professionally*. Mechanics are such crooks - don't think I've met an honest one in my life.