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BlankFrank

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About BlankFrank

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  1. 👍 Been in the garage and got the following done: finished bolting up the dynastart screwed the ignition cam on to the dynastart rotor bolted on the engine cover that holds the points checked timing is good on the points (only did the forward-direction points for now) verified continuity when the points are closed and made sure they actually go open circuit when they physically separate (cleaned the points contact surfaces too) From the start i had assumed the carburettor was almost certainly a writeoff because the throttle and choke were both seized solid but i managed to free-up both, so: cleaned out the carburettor jets and passages (used a bit of thin solder, i didn't wanna risk embiggening the various orifices) checked the float is still airtight made sure the float needle still closes The carb was full of this odd sandy crud, not sure if it was actual sand or the degraded dried remains of fuel + fuel-line decomposition. I didn't %100 strip it down and clean it spotless, just enough so that i can make sure that it works come test-time before putting any more elbow grease into it.
  2. Btw, i forgot to add "rebuild the carb" to the list also. Yep, 2 sets of points. Timing is fixed (so no advance/retard) but mirrored so it runs well when going backward. Cheers. I haven't opened mine yet but i believe this is the same thing: http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/siba-and-bosch-dynastarts.php
  3. Got a decent step forward in progress today: The engine turning over! 🤘 I've bypassed all the normal starting circuitry and dynamo + reverser system (the siba black box of gubbins) for testing. I took the 4 fat dynastart wires (labled B1, B2, A, HE) and after some head-scratching tracing the circuit path around the black box (set to the forward start position) I wired it up in the same way on its own and success! The first 2 false starts were me pulsing it to make sure it starts spinning instead of going up in flames from a possible internal short! The reason i did that instead of just wiring the black box up to it like normal and giving it power on the bench was so i could prevent any damage to the dynastart that could be caused by the black box going bad from 40 years of being sat in the undergrowth. Speaking of which, the video above is the very first time that dynastart has turned over an engine in decades, dunno why but i'm kinda glad i got that on film. Here's what the remains of the black box look like out of the machine: So you can see why i wanted to bypass it for fear of melting the dynastart. Another bit of good invacar news, the ebay auction for the oversize piston rings ended and i got it, the seller has said he's posting them tomorrow morning. 🙂 The remaining jobs to do for a test start: Finish bolting the dynastart on install ign. points cam install new piston rings hone the cylinder dress sharp cylinder port edges new jug-to-crankcase gasket bolt the head on put old engines chaincase on new engine put old engines ignition points/engine cover on new engine chaincase oil + gearbox oil wire up the ignition coil to the battery, points, and spark plug Then it should be ready for a test start if i haven't forgotten anything. As for an invacar meetup, i can't guarantee i'll attend but i'd definitely encourage one nonetheless. 👍
  4. Ta. 👍 Something puzzling me, any idea what the rope is for? Random invacar progress pic for the sake of it: £15 for a Dynastart puller? You underestimate how much of a cheapskate i can be, Mr Villiers. 😁 Nearly broke my gear puller doing it, but it worked.
  5. @egg Cheers, i've taken a punt on the only Villiers 197cc 0.015" rings on ebay, auction ends in 3 days. I'll be sure to let you know if i need the FB group. According to this http://www.users.waitrose.com/~colinatkinson/mq29.html all villiers 197cc engines had a bore of 59mm as standard so that fact along with busmans' comment gives me enough of a reason to put in a bid on the rings on ebay. @LightBulbFun True, good catch on the overlap. Regarding the Villiers repairer website I thought that too but after looking i couldn't specifically find rings for 0.015" overbore on a 197cc / 59mm bore diameter piston ring, they had other overbore sizes though.
  6. Shame i'm one of those non-facebook people. Found the cause of the seize, top end. At least that's not an unknown now, also as 2 strokes go, top ends almost seem like consumables so i can't be too disappointed i suppose. 😋 Can't get the piston out of the jug, one day i'll buy a mapp gas torch and see if i can free it up. Hammering some wood on the piston didn't budge it.
  7. Cheers for the headsup guys, very good to know.
  8. Question for 2 Stroke people (or anyone who knows) : Would there be any serious reprocussions if i used 0.010" oversized rings instead of 0.015" ones, i understand that the ring gap will be bigger but would it be noticable/damaging at all to go with them? Reason being that i can't seem to find 0.015" oversized rings specifically. I've found some 0.015 rings for a villiers 197cc but the age cut-off ends before my engine was presumably built, anyone know if they'd be compatible? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Villiers-197cc-1938-to-1956-set-of-Wellworthy-Milemaster-015-piston-rings/184301577323?hash=item2ae93ae46b:g:UWwAAOSwIV5dvD7x
  9. No worries. 🙂 Cheers for the info. 👍 Any 2 stroke people are welcome to chime in with any/all info reguarding the rebuild; i'll always appreciate the knowledge. Okidoke, i'll put that on my to do list. Also yep i've been browsing their site, very useful. 👍
  10. After taking the heads off of both engines i'm shifting strategy, the plan will now be to make a good engine by starting with the 3R engine as a base (the clean unseized but incomplete one from ebay) and putting all the required parts from the 3F engine (XWC's original seized up engine) on it. I'm not going to bin the original engine but it's just not feasable to use it at this point in time. I'd rather start with a base that's already %30 toward being done instead of starting from square 1 with the seized engine. Here's XWC's original engine that i'll call '3F' for simplicity with it's head off: The head gasket is obviously blown, i assume that's what originally took XWC off the road (presumably in the 90's) unless it happened in the space of time between it getting taken off the road years ago and when it was parked on the verge in the wreckers yard all the way back on page 1 of this topic. (above is 3F's jug with manky piston and 3F's head, all pictures below are from 3R) 3R on the other hand is clean inside apart from some light rusting from lack of use which shouldn't be too bad (please correct me if i'm wrong though, this goes for anything i say btw) ^ this bit on 3R's cylinder wall is the worst, still savable though? (correct me if wrong) If you look closely you'll see the piston on 3R is a +.015" oversized one and that means the cylinder has been re-bored oversized too. That would entail +.015" oversized piston rings so i checked they were installed and... The replacement engine has no rings! Then i rememberd egg writing in a post that the replacement engine's rings were in an envelope separately so i checked them out and.. ..bugger, both are broken. As the relacement engine is an oversized jobbie i'll get the corresponding rings for it, it's still got a far better chance at functioning than the seized engine. The replacement engine seems to have eaten its own rings at some point in the past, the ones included in the envelope might have been what was left of them. The damaged head looked like it was possibly going to be re-used by the engine's previous owner (before egg), i'm undecided on whether i want to use XWC's original non-pitted head or the one that came with the replacement engine. This is the pitted head that came with the replacement engine: ^ that pic has the head gasket placed on top to show where the jug would meet it when bolted down. The mating surface is smoother than that on the actual head, the pitting however is part of the head and not the gasket. 3R (clean replacement)'s gearbox goes through all the gears correctly which is good and all the parts that need to go on it (apart from the rings) are comptible with 3F's parts for swapping over. Still unsure specifically what seized on the original engine (3F) but during the engine assembly of 3R i'll peck away at the original one until i find out.
  11. 2-part, head separate from jug. Good idea, i might go out to the garage and give it a try. I'm concerned that the bolts+stud that hold the head on will be rust seized.
  12. Yep it's a spare engine, gearbox and clutch as one assembly. No dynastart or points or gear shift lever and there are probably other bits absent that i'm forgetting. Good thing about these engines is the gearbox seems pretty tightly integrated into the engine so when you buy an engine, it basically comes with the gearbox too. Might take some pics of it in a future update.
  13. Cheers. The engine is still seized unfortunately. The gear change seems to function because i can get it into neutral and the small output sprocket will turn freely then when i shift into any of the 4 gears the sprocket stops moving and is totally solid when any attempt is made to rotate it so presumably the engine/gearbox/clutch/dynastart is seized. (assuming the gearbox shift mech is doing it's thing correctly internally) Next jobs will be getting the other covers off to clean out any more detritus that's likely hiding and seeing if the dynastart is seized along with any other moving parts i can rule out before opening up the engine + box + clutch fully.
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