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About BlankFrank

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  1. Chuck a boost gauge on it, turn up the fuel pump and bleed valve the turbo wastegate. 💨 As an added bonus the gauge will tell you if it's losing boost pressure out of any possible intercooler damage.
  2. Make it run the old favorite, DOOM. (then make a trillion-and-one pounds when the subsequent video goes viral on youtube)
  3. Anything that involves disassembling suspension or removal of the engine + gearbox is never an easy game. 'The family fleet' that i'm required to maintain has 2 cars needing clutch release bearings doing and 2 CV boot replacements, also an MX5 that needs both rear aches and sills totally replacing before its next mot in January. God help me.
  4. Egg: Got a MK2.5, completely buggered paint due to the previous owner leaving the car in the rain with fresh body filler exposed. That is rust coming through the body filler you can see there, it's like that on the other side too but the rust is worse despite not looking as bad. Both rear arches are made of %90 filler and %10 rust. New arches it is. True about the watford 323 being a shame to scrap, hopefully it gets a last minute reprieve. Tadhg Tiogar: The Watford 323 ebay listing/auction ended but he messaged me with his mobile number and the cheap scrap offer after the auction ended so unless you've phoned him to confirm then i wouldn't bank on it being gone just yet. 👍
  5. I picked up an MX5 cheaply so the the 323 is off the road at the moment as i can only afford to insure one car at a time. I might lend the 323 to my uncle as he's an OAP driving around in a power-steering-less shopping trolly Corsa. If anyone's interested in another one of these 323s, there's a guy who's near to scrapping one near watford and he'll take anything more than £10 above scrap (£130!) I messaged him before the auction ended in case it didn't sell and after no-one showed interest he offered it up for cheaps before he scraps it. Due to me getting the '5 i couldn't see a need for another 323. His silver one wont be around for much more that a couple days (if i had to hazard a guess) so act fast anyone who wants it. (located at WD6 5EE , the auction ended but he's still got the car, as of yesterday at least) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mazda-323/372787229618
  6. I think the Invacar itself is great, it's just society's harsh judgment of the vehicle and it's users which are the fault imho. If a cheapie-cheap one ever turns up i'd love to get it, it could be completely fubar'd i wouldn't mind: so long as its register-able i'd take it on.
  7. Good ideas, will check all of above.
  8. Good to know, cheers for the headsup. Oh, speaking of the alternator, i think that mystery socket on the first one was for the red wire on the carb, it's an 8 volt choke spring heater thingy.
  9. Cheers guys. A couple people said timing and Datsuncog seemed to call it first so hats off to ya's My thoughts on possible reasons for the belt being timed wrong: a little bit of the rubber seal around the timing belt cover was in separate pieces and part of it wasn't in the right place so maybe a chunk of that got in there and caused it to skip timing. The rubber seal being crimped seems to indicate that it has been disturbed at some point in the cars life so there's that to consider. Maybe the water pump/timing belt was changed and the belt was not put back on properly (water pump kinda looks newer than the block, can't say for sure though). Another possibility is that the occasional noise i can hear coming from inside the valve cover could be a bit of something in there getting disturbed. Will open that up at some point to make sure it's not full of metal and to see if it's sludgy too. Belt didn't seem to be slack enough to cause issues, it wasn't tight as a bow string but it wasn't loose either. The thing is, if it was from something jamming the belt or getting in the way of the belt for a split second then the inertia of the bottom end spinning would mean the timing would have been off in the other direction, i think. Unless the bottom end almost did a full rotation out of sync with the top end. Not sure. I'm not going to turn the headlights on (so no night driving 'till fixed) as those probably killed the first alternator, i think the original owner (before doc) mentioned something about the alternator still working in his ad but doc had to replace the alt so i'm assuming the headlights killed the alternator between the original owner, the chav owner and doc getting the car. All other electricals seem to be fine as i can't hear any difference in the engines idle speed when turning all other accessories on/off but the headlights really bog it. At some point i'm gonna check the power draw on each accessory (including lights) with the engine off and alt power wire disconnected (to save it dieing) during testing and compare the amp draw with what's expected to see what's up. /waffle
  10. Cheers Yep, turns out it was the bloody cam belt timing. 3 teeth out on the cam pulley: FIXED! (bit sweary, 'scuse that) The main issues i've got to fix for it to be roadworthy are the popped spare tyre and bald front one. Gonna take a couple of my spare corsa b wheels to the local part-worn tyre place and get them to stick the tyres on the mazda rims, doneski. Engine definitely seems to have full power now i think, also didn't get the bogging down like before which is good. I've got a feeling that i'm going to have to do a complete diag on the electrical system as the headlights draw a ton of electrical power (engine revs drop from the load on the alternator and stuff starts dimming as mentioned in the original "can we save it" thread) also the washer relay/light goes on and off intermittently without asking. Worse yet when the car is moving my wideband restarts randomly so i'm wondering if there is a short to ground somewhere in the cars wiring loom. Glad i saved this mess in the shed from an old scrapper vauxhall to re-use if needed haha Originally i was going to wait until my current insurance policy ended before getting a new one for the mazda next year, i'm paying stupid-money for my insurance already and I thought if i changed car they would double the monthly premium but after getting a quote it turned out to only be half as bad as i was expecting so i'm going to switch over and do the tax within a week or so. Mazda should be back on the road in not-a-lot-of-days.
  11. Yeah you did a good job with the carb tweaking and rebuild i think, cheers for leaving the parts in the boot too. I noticed the spare vac line and was glad to see it wasn't all used up. Wingz is welcome to the Audi haynes manual if he's ever in the area and wants to grab it, he bagsy'd it first so it's his as far as i'm concerned. Edit: Forgot to mention something; fueling is still definitely still on the cards for the cause of the roughness. Simply because the misfire is accompanied with a lean moment on the AFR gauge so it could still be some crap stuck in the fuel system or carb jets.
  12. So the latest news, to sum it up: still buggered but making some progress. When the revs are held above 1000rpm it smooths out a bit (as you guys saw in one of The Doctors previous videos) but as you can see from my video below the car isn't running rich so the roughness is probably not currently caused by over-fueling like we initially thought. It'll run at around 11:1 or 12:1 AFR which is good to see, but when misfiring it'll totally lean out for that split second. I've got an idea that the rough running/misfiring is caused by the intake manifold gasket leaking between the coolant passages and intake ports causing coolant to get sucked into the engine, this would fit the symptoms because the fueling seems fine, the ignition (as far as i can tell so far) seems fine and the compression is fine too, yet it's still running rough despite all of the signs pointing to it being healthy. Also the coolant doesn't seem to build pressure like a normal car, it only seemed to build pressure when ragged rather than building pressure as soon as the thermostat opened. Next thing i'm going to do will be getting the intake manifold off and taking a look at the gasket. Will probably slap some RTV on it as a temp replacement for the manifold gasket and re-assemble while waiting for a new gasket to arrive. It could also be leaking coolant into the engine via a crack or porosity in the intake manifold between coolant channels and intake port. I doubt the block or head are cracked because i would assume that would show on the compression test. General progress/info: -Alternator is fine, tightened the belt and all is well with the water pump, alt and power steering pump. -Coolant leak from matrix mostly fixed, still weeps a little but that can wait until the car runs right. -Did a plugs out compression test, seems basically the same as Docs readings (150, 160, 150, 150, engine slightly warm). -Messing with the idle mixture screw doesn't seem to do anything about the misfire. -There was a single red vac line causing a vacuum leak, plugged it, now there are no vacuum leaks on the engine so that's basically ruled out (only did a lung-strength pressure test, didn't use a compressor for fear of blowing out the gaskets). -Cleaned the plugs a little, no change. -Fiddled with ignition timing, no improvement. -A-Framed it to a friend of my housemates private ground to drive it, definitely doesn't seem to have full 75-ish HP, if i had to guess i'd say its 10 to 30 HP down. -The black crap coming from the exhaust was probably just carbon from the exhaust mixing with condensation or coolant to create that black muck. -I took a look in the cylinders with the borescope, bloody scope camera was crap so it was next to useless. I got a better look by just rotating the engine until the pistons were at TDC and looking down the spark plug holes with my own eyes. Couldn't see anything worrying. -Going to check the cam belt timing, maybe it's off a tooth or two. -I've got a suspicion that the car was laid up for ages because it developed this fault rather than it developing this fault as a result of not being used. Not sure though. (excuse the fact a couple of words were muffled, i was holding my phone by the microphone end) As always, any input is appreciated. Coolant passages indicated in blue, possible gasket breakage indicated in red, intake passages self explanatory.
  13. Was wondering if the belt squeak was there before the alt change, cheers for the headsup, it's probably the alternator as i can hear a very slight squeak when turning it by hand (water pump has not even a slight squeak so that's good nooz). I couldn't trust my crappy cheap boost gauge to give a reliable vac reading so i tried out a proper vacuum gauge, granted it's attached to a hand vacuum pump for bleeding brakes but it's got a much finer granularity in the dial reading and is designed for pure vacuum and also reads in inHg which helps simplify diag. Results: ....Bums. From what i gather, the fluctuation could mean 1 or more cylinders or valves aren't sealing properly but the high speed of the fluctuation apparently indicates worn valve guides/stem seals, could be worse. Not gonna think of anything conclusively as i'm not trusting my current level of knowledge as gospel. However vacuum seems on the low side overall. Will get the borescope and compression tester out tomorrow and take a look in the cylinders in case there's any surprises, might get my housemate to blow smoke/vape through a vac line via a leccy tyre pump when the engines off as a sort of ghetto vac leak smoke tester. I did the above vac test at about 1 in the morning so i didn't want to do any throttle blips or anything over 1800rpm to keep the noise down so i've got that to do tomorrow (along with checking cranking vacuum). Stuck this on the arse-end of the car so i didn't get gassed out by the thing sitting in my garage.
  14. Cheers for the responses guys. Wall of text incoming: Done a little bit of fiddling before putting the wideband sensor in, at cold idle it seems to only be sitting at around 550-700 rpm and doesn't idle steadily but if i hold it at around 1100+ rpm it seems to idle pretty well (with a little bit of stumbling, hopefully just caused by it running very rich). That gives me the impression that the cold start idle air needs tweaking, gonna leave it like that for now until i get WOT bogging sorted as i'd like to see it at full power, a can tolerate a funky idle on cold start but i really want to see it working at full power first so i know the engine isn't perma-borked. Haven't got it up to temp yet because the belt squeal is so bad that smoke was pissing out from the belt/pullys and i nearly burnt my hand on the damn thing from the friction alone. Didn't want to run it too long with no water pump spinning. Loosened the alternator and took the belt off to make sure the alt and water pump aren't siezed/grindy and left it off to shut it up. Belt squeal/slippage is next on the agenda. Chucked an old boost gauge on to use as a rudimentary vacuum gauge and it seems to have good enough vac so i'm not super worried yet. Gonna do a plugs-out throttle open compression test sometime soon rather than relying on the plugs-in compression reading 'cos if there's a break in the head gasket between cylinders then leaving plugs in could mask that, plugs out would mean the compression would escape into the neighboring cylinder and then out to atmosphere via the plug-'oles and show up as low compression on the gauge. Not sure if the vacuum secondary is working as i've not driven it on the road, will probably jack it up with the front wheels in the air and use the brakes to simulate load while doing a WOT run in 4th to see if the secondary is working. This is my first time messing with a carburetted car based on less than 2 days of learning/research so if there's anything that i'm explaining/doing wrong or anything i'm missing then anyone please correct me. Some of you guys have been dealing with carbied cars for longer than i've existed so i'm gonna respect that. Edit: Just gonna add, thank you very much Doc for the work you've done on it before me, saved me some time and parts costs.
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