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BlankFrank

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  1. Another thing to keep in mind; If the welder has previously been set up for flux core wire then the polarity will need to be set differently for solid-core-gas-sheilded wire. (behind the flap, 2 chunky wires that can be unscrewed and swapped around) With sheilding gas the torch should be + positive & the ground clamp will be - negative. Edit: This probably all feels like an avalanche of information, the trick i've found to learning welding is just bashing your head against it repetedly until you fail better and better, before you know it you'll be welding up old bangers like its nothing. πŸ‘
  2. Some random suggestions/bodge idea: Find a vacuum line that connects to the intake manifold (after the throttle plate) and get a smoker friend to blow smoke/vape down the exposed vac line so smoke pressurises the intake manifold to rule out any vac leaks (clamp/tie a rubber glove over the throttle opening so it's sealed, any smoke will be visible at the sources of any vac leaks). Or rent a vac leak-test smoke machine if a smoker/vapist is unavailable. Use an OBD2 scanner to make sure the exhaust o2 sensor is doing its thing properly (voltage fluctuating between the proper values as the mixture is adjusted back and forth by the ecu for optimum cat performance) Check you've got correct fuel pressure at the injectors/fuel rail - low fuel pressure can still allow the engine to run but won't pressurise the injectors sufficiently for the correct spray charicteristics and that will make the ecu change the injector pulse duration and can cause rich running, as backwards as that sounds. Could be sticky/stuck injector(s) causing the same ecu/injector pulse adaption malarky. If you still have a spare idle air control valve , you could modify it to be jammed somewhere around %70 closed and keep it electrically unplugged to see if it gives you a static idle around where you want it. (Btw, cars often open the idle air control valve fully when shutting off so that if the valve fails to actuate when starting up next time then at least the car runs with the idle air valve open at maximum. That would probably be why the valve looked max-open when you removed it) Ofcourse it won't idle when cold with this mega-bodge but if your aim is to pass the emissions test and worry about the proper fix later then that might work. (you'd probably have to tweak the opening amount to get the correct idle ~800 RPM, do it while engine is warm) Do you have a multimeter and do you have the ability to check continuity of the various wires between their connectors and the ecu plugs? Could just be a wire causing it. You can also use the multimeter to read the voltage that the exhaust o2 sensor is outputting to get an idea of what the o2 sensor thinks is going on, could be the o2 sensor is duff. Also, the cat could be bad, if it's a cheap non-oem one they sometimes only last 1 or 2 years. Oh, and another idea - use a timing light to see if the ecu/coil pack/crank sensor/cam sensor/knock sensor is messing around with the ignition timing, that'd make the idle fluctuate. (any pro mechanics here, if anything i've suggested is bollocks then please correct me, i'd rather know than not know)
  3. Same, he even mentioned that he used an F40 diff so he's already got the appropriate drive shafts for it. A redtop vauxhall engine or B204 would drop right in (with some slight reprofileing of the chassis leg). Cracking great project none-the-less, the bike engine must weigh a hell of a lot less than any VX/SAAB engine so that combined with the plastic windows must make it fun to drive and better around corners than the traditional swap. Edit: I misheard F15 as F40 diff, ignore the driveshaft waffle.
  4. The trick with cutting disks is to buy them 50 at a time, then you get them for about 30p Great stuff, always nice to see some deep-dive welding going on.
  5. MX5s can burn off the coolant unless bled with their nose jacked about 70 feet into the air, been there. Maybe an air lock similar to what happens when the coolant is filled without the nose up caused the aforementioned symptoms, not sure though.
  6. Is it possible to turn the injection pump up on these? If so, that might help the slugishness a little bit. Can't help but hope that you got a handfull of cash along with the '96 after parting with the '06 one though.πŸ˜„
  7. Have interest, amusement and concern. All in equal measure.πŸ€ͺ Keep truckin' on man, just bear in mind that the negative responses are coming from a kinda supporting perspective: they aren't out to get you, even if it comes across that way. Edit: Still keep in mind the possibility of overstretching your self though.
  8. The way his advert says "as with everything i have its always up for sale at the right price" makes me think he keeps taking the ad down every time someone wins the auction and it doesn't make a figure he's happy with. Would be nice if he just put a reserve price on it. πŸ™ƒ
  9. Smartcar Edit: 'Not known to go wrong' rules it out i imagine
  10. I think i'll just have to save up for the full piston with rings if i do keep it. I was hoping to get just rings for the old piston but Mr Pastry is correct it'd just be a faff about. I'm not making any promises due to current financial constraints/tightness. Good to have a plan re: xcw's engine. I'll shutup now 'cos xwc might be offtopic. πŸ˜‚ Edit: Sale pending
  11. That was my first go-to for the rings. The issue is that (i believe) the piston in xwcs non-seized engine has been replaced with one that i haven't identified so the rings are different. (possibly BSA?)
  12. The end? Not entirely. I'd never plan on scrapping it incase that is a worry. The chassis is so far gone that the only thing left is the backbone, front suspension and about %20 structural integrity in the back. I will still tinker with it and plan on getting the engine running in the summer, i can't find the correct piston rings for a +015 sized piston that has the same width + height dimensions with the same locating pin design. If the rings weren't a problem i could assemble the engine and it would probably start with an ignition coil + condenser. I've bought the spark plug (plus a spare) and cleaned the fwd ignition points and carb (points not gapped though) so the piston rings are the main issue with the engine i'd say. That said, if any shiter want to take it off my hands for the same price i paid (Β£50) then they're welcome. I'll post some pictures of the state of the chassis in the xwc topic next month with the same offer. Edit: Sale pending
  13. Looks in x100 better condition than the xwc mk12 so that's good to see. (the xwc mk12 basically consists of a fibreglass body, engine and wheels with %10 of its chassis left due to rust, garden ornament material)
  14. Re: current progress, Nice! At that point, with spark and fuel achived you most likely have a small list of possible causes: Gummed-up injectors Insufficient fuel pressure to open the injectors properly. Could be crap-filled fuel filter/fuel lines/fuel rail or not enough electric to the fuel pump. If you're only getting a dribble from the fuel system then that's not enough, on a multi fuel injector system it needs like 40-50+ PSI of fuel spraying everywhere to get proper fuel injection (if i remember correctly). Electical issue causing injectors to not fire. When running, one wire on each injector is usually a shared constant 12v+ power and the ecu pulses the ground* wires of each injector to ground to fire them. (in other words, the ecu is connecting and disconnecting the injector grounds rapidly to match the amount of fuel required) Edit: What Moog means is take a spare bit of wire and connect one end to the 12v battery terminal and the other end to the 12v wire that goes to the coil or injectors. The important bit is you must identify what the 12v coil or injector wire is because if you connect 12v to anything else you'll probably fry something. I'll be honest, the fact that the car runs on easystart would make me think that the 12v to the coil is relatively good because the car is sparking the plugs when running on the easystart well enough. However it's definitely worth a try because you could be getting what's known as "voltage drop": basically the wires might not be allowing all the power through them, maybe enough to produce a spark but not enough to power the coil and injectors fully. Soz if that's a bit technical btw. *ground and earth are the same thing as far as these explanations go, basically the negative side of the battery is ground/earth. Not sure if i'm stating the obvious there though.
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