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DoctorRetro

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Posts posted by DoctorRetro

  1. You know, because of the holes...

    Might as well document the progress.

    Had a good poke around the side I believe is the worst. I reckon it needs doing the whole circumference of the inner arch on both sides, from where it joins the outer, about 4 inches in. 

    Might be easier to do small sections at a time, although that means more actual welds.

     

    IMG20220820145647.jpg

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  2. 1 hour ago, SiC said:

     get the settings dialed back in again

    That's the problem, I've never had it perfect.

    Feed is fine, it's just the the settings are 1 or 2 on one switch, and Min and Max on the other. 1/Min and 2/Min don't penetrate. 2/Max blows holes and/or spatters. 1/Max is ok but it's hit and miss if it penetrates. There's no happy medium.

     

    Plus I've run out of gas again and I'm not paying out another 15 quid for a gas bottle that lasts only a few minutes.

  3. 4 minutes ago, vulgalour said:

     

    It could also just be that your welder is being a tart, they do be like that.

    Definitely this. 

    I'm still using the ancient one on long term loan from @outlaw118, it's ok but very inconsistent.

    When I was doing the 309 I probably had to remove/redo over half the welds, it was just sheer determination that got me through that.

    I'm spending a lot more time away from home lately with my new job, so I'm just not getting the time I used to, in order to mess around with cars.

  4. 8 minutes ago, Rust Collector said:

    Whereabouts are you based mate? Looks like you've done the ball ache part of making the patch panels up, seems a shame to bin it off over the welder. I'm in East Sussex and I have a spare welder that works well enough for this sort of thing, if that's conveniently close for you then you're welcome to a lend of it.

    Southend, Essex. 

    Thing is, I can't tell if it really is the welder, or I'm just that shit. 

    It might be worth me trying back on the 0.8mm wire, but I've just lost faith in myself tbh. 

  5. Well, I'm done.

    Replaced the welding torch, and using co2/argon gas (which ran out really quickly!), 0.6mm wire - I just can't get the welder to behave. Spitting everywhere no matter what setting. 

    IMG20220615141542.thumb.jpg.a1a21caa354d7d635ca7c2dc4bb93d47.jpg

    Put gaffer tape over the hole for now and will offer it up as an unfinished project, if anyone wants to take it on.

    IMG20220615144609.thumb.jpg.acfaa677c72b4caa92a07b57702466ba.jpg

    Will be 500 quid.

    Or will offer someone money to come and do the welding for me!

     

  6. 2 hours ago, RichardK said:

    Argh! Damnit! The blue was also wrong. I shall refund the switch when I'm out of hospital stuff. I don't even think there are any more variations and I checked that oj the EPC.

    Really wish the MOT tester hadn't helpfully chucked the old one (or had dismantled the light and attached the balljoint instead of bodging).

    Don't worry, it is what it is. I didn't know the blue one was wrong, or I'd not have tried to get them to match. I'll keep working at it. 

  7. Got the headlight adjuster switch through.

    TLDR = It didn't work.

    IMG20220613162701.thumb.jpg.796cacb9d60413f656341a11f93ecdaa.jpg

    IMG20220613162708.thumb.jpg.c8b97bc4d41e1f54e805fd6c201de20c.jpg

    One pin is in a different place. Didn't think it would make a difference, as all 4 of the bottom pins seem to go to the same place. It apparently did make a difference, as couldn't get a live current to show on the new (green) one. 

    I swapped the wires in the car over to compensate, but still nothing 

    There's some subtle differences in the circuit board, and one is labelled LP107A and the old one LP107

    IMG20220613162757.thumb.jpg.923c11f9a24973e0dfaf20a5048da75b.jpg

    IMG20220613163405.thumb.jpg.0ea7db4f26e4cdce951318c87a20d685.jpg

     

    There's definitely power getting to the necessary wires, so now I'm wondering whether it's worth trying to make a hybrid of the two switches. 

    Mind you, I need to check the motor itself isn't burnt out or seized first 🤔

     

    IMG20220613163049.jpg

  8. How's it going? Well, this welder is turning out to be a bit of a Trigger's broom, I'm replacing the whole torch assembly now, as some parts are so old they're fused together. 

    Once that's done, coupled with 0.6mm wire, 0.6mm nozzle, co2/argon gas and loads more practice, should have me a bit better at it 

    For now though, it can rest unassembled in the boot until the parts arrive. 

     

    IMG20220610123658.thumb.jpg.45963e1f6429468d4e83d61ba96b53c3.jpg

  9. 24 minutes ago, Daviemck2006 said:

    I like the 3 spokes on that car. Would that be the factory alloys for a 323? Nice job getting the grot cut out.

    Sent from my SM-A125F using Tapatalk
     

    Would theoretically have been soft 5 spokes, although I can't find any pics of a 323C on factory alloys.

     

    MAZDA323F-922_2.jpg

  10. 3 minutes ago, egg said:

    great stuff, looks easier than Skizzer's job on the also ex Vantman Aerodeck. Has quite a contour on that wing - and it's quite err... flexible (i.e. thin) isn't it?

    Yeah, it's an odd shape. I've tried to keep my cut on the flattest bit, so hopefully won't need 3kg of filler to get it looking right 😬

  11. 1 minute ago, dave j said:

    I saw this one on Facebook for sale recently and thought I recognised it! Some of the pics of it on the other wheels it looked brilliant! Good to see an update on here bud

    I've tried a couple of different sets of alloys on it, the 3 spokes seemed a bit too chavvy for this car. I think the MX5 16s looked best. But it'll stay on the steels for now, at least until I've finished messing about with grinding and welding.

     

    IMG20220528134320.jpg

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