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About Tepper

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    Rank Morris Ital


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    United Kingdom

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  1. It's a cracked full version of VCDS and so far seems to be identical to the real thing, I've done some coding with it as well as just the normal diagnostic stuff and it worked OK. I think I have version 18.2, not sure how good any of the other cables/versions are but AliExpress are pretty good on refunds if it turns out to be shit.
  2. I use one like this from AliExpress, it wasn't too bad to set up and will happily talk to my CANBUS B6 Pisshat https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000149591559.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.36fb489cPiRWXd&algo_pvid=5c36e816-6187-4114-9f7d-3211db3b18d5&algo_expid=5c36e816-6187-4114-9f7d-3211db3b18d5-1&btsid=c75b8db9-a39e-491a-8595-c928cd087145&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3,searchweb201603_60 Obviously it'll be riddled with computer aids so use it on a throwaway laptop. You're welcome to borrow mine but I'm the wrong end of the country!
  3. Still struggling to get my head round this, I had the sump off today and couldn't see anything wrong. The stopping points don't seem to correspond with TDC on a particular piston, I still haven't got a clue what's stopping it. Oil pump maybe? As a bonus, it all looks pretty clean in there.
  4. Gutted! Yeah I'm interested, give us a shout once you've spoken to your insurance.
  5. Yes, quite possibly - as you say, depends on price! Drop me a PM and let me know, thanks for bearing me in mind 🙂
  6. Right then. I had a poke at this today with my borescope and to be honest, didn't get very far. I had a look down the injector holes into the cylinders and didn't see anything too worrying - one cylinder had a chunk of carbon in it from the manifold but I'm not too worried about that, it's also not at TDC when the engine locks up: The borescope's a bit shite, the carbon is at the bottom of the picture. The circle in the middle is the domed combustion chamber in the crown of the piston. At the moment, I'm fairly sure it's locking up on the bottom end because the tension of the cambelt isn't changing - if it were the top end, I'd expect to see it lose/gain tension when it locked up. I tried taking the oil level sensor out to have a look with the borescope but I couldn't see anything because of the baffle plate. I'm not too sure what to do next, I'm thinking I might take the sump off and go in that way - it would allow me to do a fair bit of troubleshooting without having to spend £££ on a head gasket set. Any suggestions would be more than welcome!
  7. Remember how smoothly everything was going up to now? Today I got the turbo back on, whipped off the torque converter and flex plate then changed the crank seal. So far so good. Wait a second... didn't the engine turn for more than half a revolution earlier this morning? Yep, engine's locked somehow. Will turn half a turn then hits something. The timing looks fine, and it turned over fine by hand after I did the timing belt. I can't check it 100% because I can't turn the camshaft to the mark but the mark on the camshaft is exactly 180 degrees out from the crank mark, so with another turn of the crank it should line up. I took the rocker cover back off and nothing looks amiss in there. My best guess at the moment is that something has fallen into one of the cylinders, perhaps dislodged when using the impact gun to undo the flex plate. Not amused, more investigation to follow tomorrow.
  8. Injectors back in with new washers, I've only used injectors that haven't been slide hammered so hopefully they'll be alright. Might have to code them but will cross that bridge when I come to it! Wiring loom swapped over, oil filter changed, all fuel lines back on - starting to look a bit more complete now: I was thinking about stripping the turbo down to clean the VNT mechanism, so I had a practice on the spare with the broken stud. Could I shift the exhaust housing from the CHRA? Could I fuck. So I just filled the good turbo with oven cleaner and moved the VNT lever back and forth, it wasn't too sticky before but now it's nice and free - figured I may as well while it's all accessible. I also bit the bullet and ordered a front engine mount - I had a feeling it was goosed but confirmed it by applying a vacuum, which didn't hold. Turbo back on, balljoints and rear crank seal/transmission oil seal to do tomorrow, might even get as far as getting the engine and gearbox back together.
  9. This happened: Which after a bit more hammering allowed this: Aside from the dirty ports (thanks EGR) it all looks pretty good in there, all rockers correct and present and quite clean as well. The non-damaged manifold has been refitted with a new gasket, bolts torqued to spec. More to come next week.
  10. I've thought about it, I probably would've done better from a money point of view breaking it when I realised the engine was cacked but where's the fun* in that? Got the injectors out today mainly by using a pry bar against the cracked manifold. Only one wouldn't play ball, so had to use the puller again. Between the two sets of injectors I have at least 5 that haven't been subjected to slide hammering, so we should be alright there. Got the injector washers out using a handy trick from YouTube, was about to take off the rocker cover when I got to this: The artist formerly known as a Torx screw. I tried hammering various bits in but it wasn't having any of it, so I started to smash away the manifold to hopefully get better access. To be continued.
  11. It's an auto, so no need, but thanks for the heads up. I read about this earlier today, core plug has been ordered along with the rear crankshaft oil seal and transmission oil pump seal but again, thanks for the info. While I was working on it today I found something more than slightly unwelcome. What's this? You bastard. Cracked manifold, likely from rough handling or when someone pulled the fuel rail off in the scrapyard. This means injectors out, new seals etc - deep joy. In a way I'm glad I spotted it now rather than having to chase it as a fault later - it wasn't easy to see, it was only obviously cracked with force applied to the manifold. So that's yet more parts to order and so far, only one of the injectors has come out. The rest are soaking in PlusGas, I'll have to wait and see but if not I can just use the puller again. One step forward, two steps back but hopefully we'll get there eventually.
  12. Not super productive today thanks to a moderate hangover, but managed to get the new timing belt kit and water pump on. Also swapped the melted timing cover for the one from the original engine. Much nicer doing this sort of thing with the engine out of the car!
  13. Latest update: engine has been split from the gearbox/subframe, I couldn't decide whether to split the engine/gearbox from the subframe then separate them, hopefully it won't be too much of a pain in the arse to mate them back up with the gearbox still in the subframe. I didn't get as much done as I would've liked yesterday because of a snapped bolt in the turbot, which was my own stupid fault. I welded a nut onto it but it just snapped again, tried drilling it out but snapped a bloody drill bit in it so binned it off and will just use the turbo off the old engine which of course means I need more gaskets. Oh well. Other than that, I've just been swapping stuff across from the old engine - this would be much quicker if they hadn't chopped all the hoses when it was removed. One of the glow plugs on the new engine was damaged and another was testing out of spec, so I swapped them for good ones from the old engine, fortunately without snappage. Also found the inlet pipework ridiculously clogged, the EGR valve was even worse so spent ages scraping out all the horrible black mess. Will seriously consider an EGR delete/remap if this ends up sticking around.
  14. Out it comes! Wasn't too bad in the end apart from me forgetting to disconnect the steering column like a twat and also the exhaust bracket/brake pipe that is attached to the subframe that Volvo thought it would be funny to leave out of the manual. Had to use the approved Volvo tool (AKA a ratchet strap - seriously, that's what the manual says) to shift the lower arms, still needed a balljoint splitter to crack them off. On the balljoints one of the boots is torn and the other has a bit of play so they'll be getting changed as well. I'm also changing the aux belt, tensioners and alternator overrun pulley to hopefully prevent that shitting itself and taking out the cambelt in future. I was hoping to press the bearings out of the pulleys but they appear well and truly glued in there, so I'll just fit new rollers. Stay tuned for another thrilling* instalment!
  15. A slightly melted engine has arrived. None of the important bits appear melted, I was worried the rocker cover/manifold would be bollocksed which would mean pulling injectors but fortunately it seems OK. I should be able to swap all the non-melted bits from the old engine with a bit of luck. As expected, the engine was removed using the fast, snippy method, so I'll have to swap the wiring loom over from the old lump as well. I also managed to free the remaining TRE after a bit of a battle, luckily it came off alright in the end avoiding the need for a new TRE/tracking. I'm away this weekend but will crack on with the swap next week/weekend.
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