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About shoddybanger

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  1. shoddybanger


    Is this still the tool thread? (Something funky going on with the topic name it seems...) Anyhoo, I took delivery of a new nut buster yesterday. Happened to spot this in the Amazon warehouse deals for cheaps. 1300 Nm of bolt snappin', nut manglin' ferocity... if I ever manage to source an air source that can keep up with its appetite, that is! 3/4" drive. AAA battery for scale. It weighs a ton, so I'm expecting a joyous experience of pulled wrists and cracked knuckles.
  2. I managed to sort out my VFR carbs. Woo! I finally have a fully functioning bike. And it goes so well! The issue turned out to be the diaphragms. They weren't seated properly and so would not pull up the slides to let fuel through the main jets. So, I had to pull the assembly out once more, open the diaphragm covers and reseat them. There was an excellent video on YouTube on how to set/test diaphragms properly, which helped immensely: The trick was to push the diaphragm in and pull it against the seat slightly so that the edges expand. The problem is that the diaphragm wants to 'pop' out, letting the slide fall fully into the carb, so I chucked a plastic ruler down the throat of the carb (see below) to prevent the slide from going in and hence keeping the diaphragm edges expanded, and I was then able to place the cover on and screw it tight. I did this on all four carbs, as none of the diaphragms were seated properly. The diaphragms themselves were in very good shape still, so no issues there. This wouldn't be AS, if there wasn't some bodging involved, so in the process of doing the carbs I noticed that the choke/enrichment arm was a bit slow to retract and/or wouldn't always retract fully, so I bodged on a wire that I can pull from one of the side fairing holes to make sure that the choke is fully retracted. I used black wire instead of yellow/green this time: I used small bags to keep the screws and parts organized - they're now empty and the bike is finally ready to eat miles!
  3. Good luck with the test! A Burgman would be quite nice!
  4. Well, that's a bummer! Hopefully everything ends up well with that. I recall reading in the local newspaper about a woman who took her VW Golf - that she had bought used from a dealer, mind - for servicing, and they weren't able to update the ECU software. Turns out that the VIN was flagged stolen in another country, and the update was refused. I think the used car dealer agreed to reimburse the price in the end (but not after the woman had gone public with the whole ordeal so that they were forced to save face). Edit: Forgot to update my VFR situation: I tightened the synch screws and intake boots. After that I adjusted the mixtures, but no cigar. Next possible culprit would be the diaphragms not sealing. I might just be able to reseat them with the carbs on the bike, but until then I'm just going to ride it. Bah.
  5. Well, wife returned with car, so I scraped together what mojo I had remaining and went off to buy some petrol with a jerry can. Filled the tank, jumped the pump and started the bike. It runs! Woohoo! I went for a test ride and it pulls with authority now.. except that I'm now missing the top end of the powerband completely. The slides are most likely not opening, so I probably have an intake leak. I cracked loose the synchronization screws on the intake, so I probably forgot to tighten them back up. We'll see tomorrow. Here's hoping.
  6. VFR shenanigans continue.. So the idea was to put the rest of the bike back together today where I had left off yesterday. I only had to connect the throttle cable, choke cable, and fuel line, install the airbox and tank, and I should be set. I got as far as the airbox, but when I went to put it on I noticed that the screw holes didn't match. The airbox lower half comes on top of the upper plate pictured above, and I was positive I was offering the airbox on the plate the right way around. After racking my brain for a minute I realized that I had indeed managed to install the carb assembly top plate in the wrong orientation! Now, the mental image of myself pulling the whole assembly out from the intake boots after spending considerable time wrestling it on yesterday was immediately blocked by the brain. This was simply not an option, so with trepidation I unscrewed the top plate, pulled it off the carbs, turned it around and offered it back on. A great sigh of relief was then heaved, as it went on without too much hassle. Then I found that I had only two liters of fuel in the house, car is with the wife, and on top of that the fuel pump wouldn't even prime the carbs. Started looking into that, and apparently the 3rd gen VFR's only run their fuel pumps when cranking and when the engine is running, so the pump needs to be jumped straight from the battery, when the carb bowls are empty, bypassing the relay. So, I am presently trying to convince myself to go and fiddle with the pump, but I've just about lost my mojo for tonight. Stupid carbs. Stupid pump. Bah.
  7. My VFR carb rehab is just about finished. I tore every carb to pieces, cleaned all the jets and passages, changed all the O-rings in the carbs and the interconnecting fuel + air lines, and even managed to put it all back together. I bench syncronized the carbs with some drill bits and spent a lot of time wrestling the assembly back on the bike tonight. Apparently it helps, when you warm up the intake boots with a hot air gun to make them more pliable. I'm going to put the rest of the bits back on the bike tomorrow. Here's hoping that everything works and I get to take the bike out for a nice cruise around some local twisties!
  8. I agree that crusty old MPV's have a certain charm. They're forgettable when new, and even more forgettable when long in the tooth - despite being so utilitarian! The Trajet is a reasonably nice drive. Very forgettable in that sense, too, as it just goes about its business and doesn't really stand out in any way. We have the small 2.0l four pot coupled with the autobox, so it's certainly not the fastest, but gets us where we need to be. The best driveability-related aspect is definitely the transmission: it's a 4-speed with overdrive, and it always seems to be on the right gear. It shifts very early in light driving, but isn't afraid to use the revs when more power is needed.
  9. It has been a great car as far as flexibility and space, but rust is starting to get the better of it. And the rear arm job is turning out to be a pain... I got as far as removing the brakes from the old arm today, but as I went to take off the brake backing plate, I made the mistake of using a 12 point wrench on the crusty and seized bolts, and the head of the first bolt got rounded off. Yeah. I had options. I forgot my long 6 point ratcheting wrenches at home. They might have removed the backing plate bolts neatly. I could have also pulled off the hub assembly with a slide hammer and have room for using sockets - or just cut the bolt heads off completely, but that would have meant committing to the repair, because after pulling the hub I wouldn't have been able to install a wheel on it anymore in case things went sour further on in the repair. That backing plate certainly needs replacing, and I was also on a bit of a tight schedule, so after rounding off that one bolt I made the decision to backtrack and put everything back together, as I can't have the car taking up room in the shop until I have a chance to continue working on it. So, next order of business is to order a new brake backing plate with bolts, as the old ones have rusted into oblivion. I also need a new lower bolt for the shock absorber: I noticed that it's missing a head, and it looks like someone has welded a small plate or washer on it to keep it from coming through. As if this wasn't enough, my jack stand punctured a hole into the sill. Gnhhh! Can only blame myself, though.. I shouldn't have placed the jack stand below an unwelded part of the sill.
  10. I can haz update. Soo, the Trajet failed its MOT/inspection. This did not surprise me that much, but the reason for the fail was slightly unexpected: rot in left rear control arm and buggered CV boot. I was expecting a fail due to the CV boot and emissions (she smokes like an old freight train upon startup.. valve guides most likely gone) and rear right wheel arch (nice texture bubbling beneath the paint). Incidentally, our legislation was changed some time during the last year, and it's now illegal to fix suspension parts by welding up any corrosion/holes, so I had to order a new rear control arm. I was contemplating whether it was worth saving the whole car anymore, and even test drove a C8, but it turned out to be not so good, and there were no suitable options nearby, so here I am, trying to make the Trajet die another day. I changed the whole CV instead of just doing the boot. It was clicking already, anyways, and I had a spare joint. I would have changed the inner joint as well, but it was stuck in the transmission, so I left the old one on. The rear control arm is turning out to be a bit more involved. I got to this point when I realized that I forgot to take the spring compressors with me to the shop. Bugger. It also looks like I have to completely remove that small bit of brake line just left of the shock absorber. I'm betting that the pipe will crumble into pieces once I touch it, so I'm going to have to take my brake pipe tools with me tomorrow, when I continue. I decided to loosen all of the arm connecting bolts in advance, and I'm glad I did. I had a nice long breaker bar, but still had to use a cheater pipe to get those nuts and bolts to move at all. They were on there toight! I guess the inspector was right in failing the part... those holes aren't supposed to be there! Above the holes is a patch I welded on last year, when it was still legal to fix chassis parts by welding them up.
  11. Ah well. New developments and all that. Ridding everything of personality. Anyway, I had to do the manual blinking thing with a motorcycle once, and it grew old really fast, so I agree with the notion of functionality first.
  12. What a grand trip indeed. I enjoyed all of the videos you put out. Shame it's finally come to an end, but it's good to see you and Elly made it back to home soil safe and sound. Marvellous machine, that 2CV. Hopefully the new blinker can is of the uneven type that makes strange squeaky noises!
  13. I wonder if a spritz of penetrating oil twice a day for one week before trying to wrestle it would help. Edit: ^^that's a good one, too
  14. Ya. About the only positive aspect of having to deal with a seasonal tyre change is the fact that wheels very seldom have a chance to weld themselves onto the hub.
  15. shoddybanger

    New car/truck

    You may want to check where that oil weep is coming from. Yesterday I looked at a car with one. "Been that way all the time we've owned it". Well, the leak was not slight and being in the lower front part of the engine where the alternator lives, it had apparently caused the last alternator to burn, too, as the seller mentioned that "the alternator had been recently swapped!". Anyway, a leak can be anything from a harmless old valve cover seal or oil pan seal weep to a right pain.. such as a warped head or front crank seal. Or rear crank seal. Sorry about not being very convincing... oil leaks are sort of traumatic for me, as the last one I had was on the Nubira, which was apparently ran dry by PO and subsequently cooked the conrod bearings. Which I of course learned on the way home after parting with cash!
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