shedenvy

Progress looks great, and your upsidedown welding skills look very tidy compared to mine!

Sort of against the grain but I'd be putting in some dog-sausage red leather Alfa seats.

Looks awesome!

Bosh... 12months MOT.

234850 miles not out.

Celebrated with some overlanding.

28 minutes ago, junkyarddog said:

Disaster!!!!

The door wouldn't open with the key.

Oh noes!!

A squirt of oil and all's well again!!

Bloody Fords ect..

 

Sure I'm teaching egg sucking, but with a long torx Allen key in an access hole covered by a bung you can undo the retaining screw and remove the entire rear section of the handle and lock barrell. Soak in wd40 and grease and it'll never play up again.

Blasted block to thermostat hose next. Easy ish once you take the battery box, vacuum solenoid valves and bracket and gear selector cables off.

Astonishingly I bought the correct part and even more Astonishing, no leaks yet.

Old part with slit in, detective Bill noticed someones been here before - shoddy inferior parts!

Back in for retest next week!

Rear springs today, 2 out of 2 broken.

Stupid bottom arm cup thingy full of mud and rust, surprised there was any metal left after I wire brushed them. Should have painted them but will probably be bean tins soon enough.

Not sure if I got the right springs, sitting a little high now.

I call it the mon-donk-o.

Replacing mine was fun*, and now I have a leak from a hose at the back of the engine. I can see said hose from under the car if I peak between the subframe and zorst. Should be entertaining to fit the new one.

Sorry about your Dad, very inspirational progress though. I've got a 2cv in the garage perched ontop of the old rusty chassis. Went down a rabbit hole of fixing rust and lost momentum. Need to finish it next year.

Spoiler alert... turbo replacement was a success.😁

Been pootling about since Monday but today managed 50 miles into work without incident. Even the cruise worked and the new thermostat means the heaters toasty.

Slight smell of piss, but I guess it was a taxi - the stories those rear seats could tell....

Nearly back together. Took off what I call the cleanside duct as I could see a split on the seam. Had this stupid ginormous resonator box on it and could not for the life of me get the bustard duct back into place. So I chopped off the box and epoxied a bit of plastic over the hole.

Naturally it glided back into place after it's trim job. 

Marigolds for the win. 

Just the bottom arm bolt to manipulate back in and the wheels and I can try for a start!

32 minutes ago, sierraman said:

What an awful job the turbo is on those. I would go down the route of a recon turbo for the hassle it is to fit, that said on the old 2.0 TDCI in the Mk3 a popular fix was to drill and tap the casing opposite the vanes, pump it full of Oven cleaner and stick a bolt in the tapped hole. 

I’ve got to say though it is unusual for the vanes to coke up on these. 

You're not wrong - I think removing the driveshaft was particularly annoying, the bottom ball joint refused to release so I ended up removing one of the bolts on the bottom arm to subframe so I could pivot the arm enough to get the shaft out of the hub.

Recon turbo on order.

Have tried some oven cleaner but it didn't improve.  I couldn't get the turbine housing bolts to loosen to try and figure out what's wrong.  Rather than risk buggering up my exchange deposit i'll just pack it up and wait for the recon.

Just taken off the vacuum solenoid and found that filter you mentioned.  Not clean but I could easily suck through it so suspect it's fine.

On 11/11/2022 at 6:39 PM, sierraman said:

I have a spare solenoid. Have you tried stripping to solenoid down, it has an internal filter in it?

Things escalated, I want to say quickly but it took bloody ages. 

Can only move the vnt lever with vice grips. Only a small amount of play in turbo. May take it into work for turbo expert to have a look or just fork out for a recon unit...

Hi all, I'm the current owner of this Kelp Green mk4 ex taxi, ex 95 quid Peugeot,  ex Pat Earrings. On 230k. 2.0tdci.

Currently pausing going back into daily duty as it has an overboost issue. The vacuum circuit appears intact and holds a vacuum with my manual pump. The solenoid delivers about 25inhg vac but it steps up every 0.5second or so. Will cross check this on our s-max. With same vacuum the turbo actuator doesn't reach the end stop. Total movement on the actuator is only about 8mm. With some persuasion I can get the actuator to move to the end stop. Initial thought was soot in the vanes but also wondering about the actuator. May take the actuator off the lever and see how freely the vanes move. 

Other than that, 2nd little tricky to engage ( understandable considering past life ) and a little knock from front end ( guessing drop link, top mount what have you).

I've started on the journey to restoring my mum & dad's one, needless to say I've got a way to go:

Have we had this yet?

Wonder what the rear cab panel is from?

This is in Isle of Wight:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/298445447876461/

Someone get it bought and sell it to me!

£80 no MOT

This is for sale in Colchester, not overly convenient for Italy admittedly:

https://www.fiatforum.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=36008

£500

Awesome! Back in the game!

So question is, did the bleed fix it or the clutch change??

23 minutes ago, BeEP said:

I assume by one o'clock that shedenvy means a maximum of 30 degrees?

Aye you got it, I haven't had a protractificator since I dont know when.

What's the release bearing like? My worn one was only slightly gritty but made it impossible to change gear.

Also clutch alignment tools are for the prosperous. 1/2 inch extension with a bit of electrical tape wrapped around to take up the slack.

Check how much the flywheel can rotate - should be 1 oclock either direction max and with a little spring force.

Great progress though. Ive now got Multipla search alerts on all the selling sites!

That's great to see!

I had a bit of a wobble this week and nearly gave you a pm asking if you'd had a change of heart over keeping it. 

Once you get em under your skin and all that...

^^ this place gets a bit bogged down at times and the above project and this thread are good to spice things up a bit.  Some people get a sweat on with a Korma and should stick to the house omelette.  Crack on regardless, this looks fantastic!

When I cunningly smashed the sump on the Multipla, and a replacement was tiger sealed on and new oil & filter changed, the oil stayed clean for 1000s of miles (I do 500 a week).  I think the key point is that my MAF was unplugged so no EGR flowing.  For the most part a common rail, boosted diesel is very clean - it's just EGR which makes it sooty again.

If you have a DPF fitted and no vaporiser then you have Diesel in the oil as well as soot.

Bean trying to park like this for a fortnight now.

Unless you need to take passengers, filtering through traffic will save you acres of time compared to any car no matter how slow the bike.

Now swap Axiam motor into scooter and but a 24V battery in that top box.