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Fumbler

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Fumbler last won the day on July 22 2022

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kent/East Sussex borderlands
  • Interests
    Shite and useless junk.

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  • Country
    England

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Rank: Lancia Gamma

Rank: Lancia Gamma (8/12)

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  1. I just like the shape and the seemingly miserable basic-ness of it. Strangely, people I know of who've either owned or worked on them either absolutely loved them or wanted to push them off a cliff.
  2. I've never seen "Exquisite" and "Lada 1200L" in the same sentence before. I wonder how much more expensive it is now as opposed to when it was originally sold? Still would, though.
  3. Dad's V70 got sold and is just about to go to it's new lucky owner. 6 years we've had it, how time has flown! BUY FREND
  4. Heh, they also snuck in an eBay bingo "will only go up in value" within that non-punctuated mono-sentence. IIRC all of these were automajiks?
  5. My BX found a base model friend. Apart from the trim, everything else is the same. Taken just before Crimbo '21 IIRC.
  6. Me, DON'T BUY ANYTHING! Ha, hahaha... ha.
  7. "12 months mot can be put on it for the right price" Is it just me or does that sound slightly dodgy?
  8. Thanks man. The system on my car will be exactly the same as yours but it lacks the horrible rigid vacuum lines. As it's all nearly new I don't really want to pull apart the injector rail and intake, so I think what I might do is run another catch can system in parallel, running from the cam cover. Might be a fun little project!
  9. The way I'd do it is paint the thing silver. Once dry, cover the entire thing in masking tape, thoroughly press down everywhere and ensure everything is stuck down. Concentrate on the MG recess, as this'll tlell you where to cut the tape. Use a razor blade/box cutter/sharp Stanley knife/hand sharpened flint stone to then cut the tape out of the recess. Spray your red, take the tape off and lacquer. Either do that or as @pervypaulsays inject paint into the recess or use a small brush to do the inside.
  10. Couldn't resist doing yet more testing. Looking back I don't think there was any actual difference. It was probably wishful thinking. While clearing up after yesterday's investigations I decided to have a look at the flame trap. This was more of an impulse thing so no photos were taken. This is what it looks like- It's the orange disc in this PCV elbow. The elbow then sockets itself in the intake elbow, just before the throttle plate. A common mod is to remove the flame trap and throw it away- apparently this trick is sanctioned by Volvo themselves, after all, the flame trap was removed on later versions of the engine. After removing the elbow, I opted to remove it and throw it away as well. Rather predictably, I suppose, the elbow was also full of gunge so I gave that a thorough cleaning as well. While it was drying I went back out and blew through all the PCV hoses and found nothing to be plugged up. I also gave them a little drink of Seafoam just in case they were as gungy as the elbow was. With it re-installed I then put the system back to how it was from the factory and went on a little drive. Christmas Eve traffic this year was remarkably light and the journey was actually rather nice for a change! I re-did the glove test and found no change. I mean, why would I, as the car's idling and the throttle butterfly is more or less closed? I then disconnected the vacuum hose in the red box from the vacuum tree on the throttle. The intention of this hose is to keep the gases flowing out of the engine at tickover by using manifold vacuum, so there's no build-up of pressure in the block, while the car is sitting. Obligatory video: This proves a thing or two. First thing is that the system is working as intended: there's fumes filling the elbow and exiting the hose, meaning all the passages from the cam cover and the block are open, as well as the oil separator itself. Second thing is that there's flow in the system when you open the throttle, because as soon as you let off and the engine coasts down, there's a stream of fumey smoke from the pipe. Third thing is that it shows the car's failing the glove test due to increased blow-by and possibly increased oil evaporation from old oil. Contrary to traditional systems, there's no PCV valve in the system. It's a bit like my old BX and uses fixed orifice metering, IIRC, and the small vac connection isn't able anymore to extract all the fumes at idle. So, I suppose the solution is to keep the car from idling? 😁 I'll mull over it for a while. Initial thoughts are to add another vacuum port on the flame trap and pipe that to the vacuum tree. It's a closed system to it shouldn't be of issue... I think. Another idea is adding another port on the cam cover and piping that to the vacuum tree. I've got to figure out how to block it off when the throttle is open however. I think I've flogged this dead horse into oblivion by this point. Merry Christmas everyone, hope you all get loads of prezzies.
  11. I've done several more PCV investigations and it looks like most of the stuff I've tried was never going to work from the get-go: I never got my oil hot enough! I've been on several journeys now and with the oil at proper operating temperature and the glove merrily inflates away (and then blows off like a balloon) with the PCV installed as Volvo intends, and still inflates (albeit slower) with the modifications I've made. I imagine the engine's a bit worn at 163000 miles and the extra blow-by produced because of that is complicating things further. It's likely overwhealming the system considering it's been replaced within the last two years. So it looks like I'll be doing this at some point: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/diy-the-ultimate-pcv-fix/ This mod suggests I replace the OEM hose from the oil separator to the breather inlet at the intake with a 15mm hose to compensate for the increased gas. Further suggestions also include replacing the hose from the cam cover to the oil trap with more 15mm hose. Bending it might be a struggle, though. The whole reason for doing this was because, going by how oily the sump and sides of the block were, it's likely there's oil being blown out of a seal or three.
  12. Today's adventure takes us underneath the Swede Beast and to the radiator drain That looks a little chewed up. Actually before this I had to remove the undertray because the plug wouldn't unscrew. Subframe looks nice though, I wish the rest looked that nice! I have a sneaking suspicion this is a new rad as Volvo ones have a bleed nipple with a 13mm hex head on them. Got it in the end though. The coolant's even the right colour. Result! If you're wondering why I'm draining the coolant it's because I'm attacking this thing ...Just pretend there's a stripped Torx bolt head there for me, will you? Also pretend there aren't hoses attached to it... I dun goofed and left that for after the housing was loose. I followed the advice of Saint Robert DIY and used a 6 and 8mm HSS drill to drill the bolt heads off. It was a bit fiddly but with the drill turning slow and using a lot of patience I got there with minimal damage to the housing. The radiator hose was rather scary looking. I don't have a hose pick so I used a small Allen key to break the candyfloss bond between the hose and housing neck. It came off pretty easily which was a pleasant surprise. After I manoeuvred the housing out of the way I was greeted by a firmly stuck in Volvo thermostat. I decided to give everything a little clean before taking it out of its hole. This was the remains of the original bolts. Twiddling the bolt out of the farthest hole was nasty. I wanted to cut a slot in the top to accept a flat head screwdriver, but there was no room for my Dremel. I then gave the thermostat housing a bath in the "parts washer" so I could get rid of all the swarf and corrosion on the neck. It's now the cleanest item in the engine bay. Plop. Bleed pin positioned at the front like the old one. This 'stat is rated for 92 degrees as opposed to 90. The car doesn't seem to mind. And here is the housing all clean and bolted back in. I found some 316 stainless steel bolts which looked like they'd do the trick. I spun them in with copious amounts of copper grease so hopefully they don't seize in place again.
  13. Nup. It's actually sitting on something separate to what it's leaning against. Cruel me.
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