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1970mgb

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1970mgb last won the day on September 7 2019

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  1. 18V blocks have a convenient mounting point for a mechanical pump. A Marina mechanical pump will fit and work fine. With that said, I personally have an aversion to them, and will choose an electric by the tank if at all possible. My Marina has a Facet brand(noisy cube) pump as installed by a previous owner, and even though I have a mechanical pump in the car just in case(and I know it works) I wouldn't use it unless I was stranded and didn't have any other choice. New production electric SUs are well made and of a proven design. The points type can have issues in an infrequently driven car(the points can oxidize and cause the pump to not work, a condition often cured by whacking the pump with whatever blunt object is handy), but especially with a TVS across the points can last forever provided that you let the pump click over every few weeks. The electronically switched SUs tend to give years of trouble free service.
  2. SU/Burlen makes new production pumps of both the points type and the electronic type. I have the latter in my MG, and it has worked perfectly for quite a few miles and about 4 years now with it pleasantly ticking away. As I said, I understand it to use a hall effect sensor rather than a microswitch as shown on the Hardi above.
  3. Wow, the microswitches in the Hardi are a bit of surprise. AFAIK, the solid state SUs use a hall effect sensor. I don't know that 100% for sure-I'm not inclined to pull mine off now and look, and the person I can think of who would know passed away last year. Still, though, it's been tossed around enough that I'm PRETTY sure it's the case.
  4. Interesting-you might have the first issue I've actually heard of with a Hardi pump. They're generally considered pretty robust, but crazier things can happen. One thing I would caution checking for is making sure you're not getting random bits of crap on the screen in the tank or elsewhere in the pickup or fuel line. I've had that happen to me a few times, often combined with letting the tank get too low(my fault) and less than great fuel. I remember driving to work one day when I had a sort of similar situation to you(although not nearly as bad). The gauge was reading 1/4, and I SHOULD have filled up before leaving but didn't. In any case, I was going ~60mph on a steep-ish ramp, and when I got to the top I felt it start to falter and lose power. I limped along to the next exit, and by the time I got down I had just enough momentum left to coast into a spot on the street. I thought I'd run out of gas completely, and a kind soul stopped, asked what was going on, volunteered that he only lived around the corner, and would be back in 5 minutes with a tank. In the mean time, I managed to get it started again and moved into a lot off the street. The guy came, added 2 gallons, and I figured that would get me 3 miles to the next gas station(which is by work). It petered out again by the gas station and I ended up pushing it to a pump. With a full tank, it started right up again, and I drove it a half a mile to the parking lot. I was convinced that the fuel pump was failing, so went out over my lunch break intent on swapping my electronic SU for the Facet I had in the trunk then. I unhooked the line from the tank, which should have had fuel flowing out of it when I did. I got barely a dribble, but then what I'd best describe as a big rusty brown splooge wad shot out and it started flowing normally. I hooked the line back up to the pump, and everything was fine. The best I can figure, it was still pumping through the blockage, but just not enough to keep up with a running engine. If I let it run for a minute or two, it would fill the float bowls and let the engine run sort of normally for a couple of minutes. I had another time where the line from the tank to the pump had decide to collapse(I had it bent gently, but it decided to crimp) and I had much of the same symptoms. So, I guess I'm just saying it's worth checking all that sort of stuff.
  5. Ouch! What a way to start the year. A B engine is surprisingly drivable on 2 cylinders. Yes, it will feel like you're trying to move a boat every time you accelerate, but it will go and will even get up to decent speeds and hold them(provided you don't have to go up grades). Aside from that, even if one carb packs up and dies completely, remember that the intake manifold has a cross-over pipe between the two inlet ports. That means that even though the front carb MOSTLY feeds the front two and the rear MOSTLY the rear two, all cylinders will still get some. Dry plugs+presence of a spark tell me that it's most likely not an ignition issue. If it were a weak or improperly timed spark, I'd expect wet plugs. One of my first tests would be-as suggested above-to spray some ether into the intake and see if it will at least fire on that. It won't run long on that(you might get a few seconds) but if it at least "kicks" a bit you'll know that it's not getting fuel. Absent that, you can even try dribbling a bit of fuel in the carb throat. That aside too, I've seen/heard of some really weird vacuum leaks that caused a sudden non-running situation. A few months back, one guy on the MG forum had a lifter failure(weird by itself) but when it happened he had a backfire that popped a core plug out the end of the intake manifold. Even without lifter failure, something crazy like that can cause it to not run at all.
  6. The fact that the black Minor(even though it's no longer for sale) is advertised with a "race cam" scares me. Generally "race cam" and "street driving" don't play so nicely since true racing cams usually like to be wound way up and are pretty gutless if not. A hot street cam can be a nice addition, but then depending on the specific grind some of those are fairly high strung also. The popular "street performance" grind for B series engines(APT VP-12, Delta D9 in the US, Piper 285 and a few others in the UK) comes into its own around ~2-3K RPMs(depending on how you time it) but is pretty sluggish below that. It's very driveable, especially with a low 1st gear, but I don't know how much I'd want something similar in a Mogie mostly driven in city congestion. I'd like to throw a cam in the Marina(at the same time as some other work) but am leaning toward something a bit less aggressive(APT VP-11, Delta KB, Piper 270) as I don't know how much the auto will even let the other get into its power band.
  7. Thinking back to a year and a half ago(summer 2018) when I looked at a package deal of a few Minors here semi-local to me: The running/driveable definitely fit the definition of "looks like crap but is structurally sound." The guy who owned it/was selling it was handy with a welder and had redone the floor pans and all the other dangerous spots, The body actually wasn't half bad-unless primer gray is your thing it mostly needed a sanding followed by a fresh spray and then some trim. Oh, there was the whole thing too that the bonnet hinges were bad and it had a ratcheting strap holding it in place. In any case, provided you could live with the transmission popping out of 3rd and 4th, that one was decently peppy with a 1275 Midget engine. That one did sort of scare me too, though, in that from what I understand there's a "right way" and "wrong way" to do a 1275 swap, and I wasn't sure how it was done. There was also the iffy-to me-disk conversion on it. $4K USD would have probably bought that one. I know many Mogies in the US are running around with upgraded front suspension from Marinas, although the source of those(scrapped Marinas) has mostly dried up. For an MGB-at least in the US $2K will buy an ugly but serviceable RB. You probably are in the $4K+ range to get a nice CB. I have no idea of UK prices.
  8. I started tearing down the engine today. The first step was unloading it at work, where easy access to a hoist made the unload job easier. I'll strip it down to the bare block, which tips the scale at a bit over 100lbs but is a lot more manageable than the full short block. Getting it out of my trunk and onto the loading dock, then down the elevator, took a bit of creative use of hoist. Fortunately I had the help of a coworker. We ended up using a fairly with the front wheels over the edge of the dock to get it out, then brought it up and set it down on the dock while we positioned the hoist a bit more stably, shortened the chain length, and moved the arm from the 1/2 ton to the 2 ton position to have more overhead clearance in the freight elevator. Once up on the dock and maneuvered into the elevator, the block went back down onto the floor so that the legs could be folded up to lower the elevator. Once down, we were able to drop the legs again then haul it back up high enough to place it on a flatbed cart, where it will stay through the tear-down. So far, aside from the basics that I don't really even consider "tearing down" like removing the tappet covers and tappets, I've only pulled one piston out. I didn't have my socket for the crank nut with me(1 5/16) so I'll have to tackle that one later. I did realize that I probably need to leave a couple of other pistons in to help getting that nut loose. The good news is that the block is fairly unmolested and I don't think has ever been apart before. The bearings on the one piston I removed look very good, and the piston pushed out the top with only a minimal amount of persuasion. Also, tabbed washers are the work of the devil.
  9. I have a love-hate relationship with drums. I can appreciate their simplicity and self-servoing effect, but corrosion seems to be the order of the day when dealing with ones that have sat for any amount of time and I also hate dealing with adjusters(manuals are a pain, autos like to seize). I was talking to a friend the other day and he got to reminiscing about his 57 Bel Air that was "warmed up" a bit. Way back in the 60s, he and his wife were on their way back to Chicago from up in Wisconsin. She drove much of the way back, and he took over close to home. On taking over, he found that he had no brakes at all. His wife reported that they'd been feeling "funny" for a while. Upon getting home(safely, amazingly enough) he found that a snapped leaf in one of the rear springs had grabbed the e-brake cable and was causing the shoe on one side to drag. It finally heated up enough that on coming to a complete stop for them to switch drivers, one of the cylinders had blown out, which of course gave them no brakes at all(single circuit system). At some point, the drum had become so hot that it peeled the red paint off the steel wheel and turned the metal underneath it straw colored. I also heard fond stories in that same conversation of his 73 El Camino(which he still has) with 4 wheel drums and into which he'd put VelveTouch linings. I'd not heard of those, but apparently they are a metallic type pad really meant for racing that has to be warmed up a fair bit before it will grip.
  10. Nice looking work on the welding. Re: making holes-we have a hydraulic "knockout punch" set here at work with a 9 ton hand press. It takes a bit of time to set up, but makes very nice and clean round holes in sheet metal when needed. We have a 6 die set that will do 1/2" to 2" holes and with that weight press can do 11 gauge steel(about 3mm), although they are available larger(albeit you'd probably need a bit more stout of a press to do that) and can also punch in heavier steel with a heavier press. This is similar to the one we have in all its Made in China glory. Higher quality ones are available https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013UIX5MI/ref=psdc_2225058011_t1_B073336KRW
  11. Nothing too much to report on the car itself-it's running fine but temperatures have taken a turn for the colder so I haven't been driving it as much. I did make a significant purchase, though. The engine is okay but is tired, so I've been wanting to do a rebuild to my satisfaction. I didn't want to yank the original and do that, though, as this one will be done as time and budget permit, so I figured I'd buy a rebuildable short block. A quick call turned up an 18GF out of a parts '67 GT. I went to pick it up yesterday-it was about a 3 hour trip, but I had some things to take care of a further ~2 hours past there so I'm making a bit of a round trip "circuit." I had also arranged for the purchase of an O/D from this same seller. It's a blue label I'm told out of a 1980, but is a good serviceable transmission. I'm going to take it up to the overdrive master up in Pennsylvania for a full rebuild as well as an internal conversion to a 3/4 overdrive(late blue labels are usually 4-only). It will go in the car at the same time as the rebuilt engine. It was a bit of an adventure to get everything loaded in the back of my car, but it did all fit. I ended up snagging the head along with it, which will go out for a complete work-over. The guy I'm going to use for that likes using non=smog heads, and the 12H906 that I have is his favorite. I don't have a great photo of it all in there, but here's the engine being dropped in. I guess that for now I can claim to have a 10 cylinder Lincoln
  12. I still hear the "don't pump the gas because it will flood" get tossed around a lot. As said, it's a non-issue with fuel injection. In addition, two of the three cars I own are carbureted. On my carbureted vehicles, you can sit and mash the accelerator all day and all you'd accomplish is wearing your leg out. All pushing the accelerator does on an SU carb is just open the throttle plates, much as what happens on a fuel injected car with a throttle cable, If you get even more modern and go to drive-by-wire throttles, the throttle plate won't even open if the key is off. I did piddle around a bit at one time in my brother-in-law's 80s Chevy 1500. It had a small block 305 with a Rochester Quadrajet. If it was a little bit cold out and the engine was cold, mashing the accelerator once or twice would usually have it starting as soon as you touched the key thanks to the accelerator pump spraying gas into the intake. Do the same with the engine hot, or on a hot day, and starting could be fun-although holding(not pumping) the pedal on to the floor while cranking would usually clear it. Of course, SUs, or really any type of carb, can also heat soak and percolate(and consequently flood)-a situation where flooring the accelerator when cranking is the best way to get them to start.
  13. Not too many photos to share here, but I thought I'd update a bit since I think I've made some progress on the brake front. Oiling didn't really accomplish anything. I put a wrench on the adjuster(yes, I have a "proper" 1/4" square wrench made just for adjusting brakes), and promptly snapped off the square when I started bearing down too much on it. Still, though, through some judicious application of brute force, I was able to "convince" the drum that it wanted to come off. I managed to get a bit of attention in the process-one neighbor asked me if I'd heard all the commotion that "sounded like someone hitting a metal plate with a hammer"...of course I denied . None the less, frequent and specific application of my BFH did finally get the drum off. It still wasn't immediately obvious to me why the shoes weren't retracting, but I'll worry about that later. In the short term, I focused on the adjuster. Here's the brake assembly with the top spring removed and the shoes pulled away from the adjuster I rummaged through the trunk and found a couple of backing plates, but elected to grab the most stripped one that only had a cylinder and adjuster still attached to it. On that particular one, the adjuster was missing one of the pins that contacts the shoe, but at least the housing and the screw were intact. I unbolted both that one and the one on the car from their backing plates, and brought both in to work with me today to fiddle with as I had time. Amazingly enough, the retaining bolts on both offered essentially no resistance to coming off-a welcome treat. The first step was boiling in solvent(an acetone/kerosene mixture in this case) to get the worst of the grease and grime off, followed by boiling in dilute phosphoric acid to take care of the worst of the rust. After that, I proceeded again to the "brute force" phase. I clamped the adjuster in a vice, then hit it with a torch to try and break it loose. With it still hot, I melted some parrafin wax onto the threads hoping that would get drawn in and help, but I still didn't get too far. Finally, I occurred to me that since they were dissimilar metals(steel and aluminum), heat+quench might do the job. Sure enough, heating and then dumping on water then required only a gentle tap on the wrench to have the adjuster moving. I still had the pin to get out, but heat+quench got that taken care of too. The other adjuster responded well to the same treatment. Once everything was apart, I gave it all another quick acid bath and left it in kerosene for the weekend. I'll wire brush everything on Monday and then hopefully have it all ready to go back together. Of course, with the rear brake back together, I'll bleed the whole system to clear and make sure the brake fluid is in good shape. Given how well the transmission responded to static testing, I MIGHT brave another road test on Monday. I'll have to see. It won't be as long or as taxing as the last one so that hopefully I'll have enough life left in it to limp it back home(or safely ditch it where I can leave it for a few hours, walk back home and let it cool down, and then come back) if it does start slipping again.
  14. I realize I haven't updated this in a few weeks. It's been a bit hectic around here-went to Florida with my girlfriend, came back with my fiancé, and some other big things like that, but I'm finally sitting down to write down what's new with the car. I decided to forgo band adjustment on the advice of the guy who will likely be rebuilding it, so buttoned it back up with the new pan gasket. I know that the conventional wisdom is to put these on dry, but lining up that many bolt holes through a cork gasket seemed to require 4 hands even using a jack to(lightly) support the pan. So, with that in mind, I ran a thin bead of Permatex around the pan and let it set up overnight(upside down with a brick on top) to hold the gasket in place. With that on, it was fairly straight forward to get the pan bolted back on. I did employ the jack again just to free up my hands so that I could line up bolts with one and holes with the other, but that's nothing too exotic. With that done, I went back to the engine, which unfortunately defeated my attempts to start and stay running after the carb refresh(which seems to be how things go for me). That was right before I left for Florida, so I decided to shelf that and mull it over. Once back, I pulled the carb and found first of all that despite the fuel pump running(and pumping at a reasonable flow rate) the carb had almost no gas in it when I opened it up. Some more experimenting showed me that the needle valve seemed to be sticking closed-I could free it manually and could blow through it fine. "Tilting" the carb(to move the float) would close it fine also, but it wouldn't reopen when the float dropped. I spent a bit of time last night mulling it over, as it seemed to slide in and out of the seat easily enough. Still, though, I pulled both the needle and seat out and, after looking a bit more, I lightly drug each "edge" of the needle along a sheet of 2000 grit sandpaper. Another test fit had it moving a lot more freely, and it worked fine when tilting. So, with that in mind, I stuck it back on the car and after some protests got it running albeit not great. At this point, I still had the car on the ground, and it would at least go backwards a few inches(I didn't want to really test it anymore). This evening, I got the rear end back up, snugged up some fittings under the hood, and the engine started up without too much protest and ran well. I think I still have a stray vacuum leak as it wants to idle at ~1100 rpms, but I can deal with that later. The important thing it is running. Then, another problem decided to crop up. Somewhere or another along the way, the left rear brakes decided to lock up nice and tight. Thanks to it having an open differential, though, I was at least able to play with the transmission and the right rear wheel spins the correct direction according to where it's set. I'm out of giving it another road test for now, though, with the seized brake. I pulled that wheel and attempted to back off the adjuster, which of course was tight also. Amazingly enough, I hadn't needed to use any PB blaster on the car to this point. I picked up my one can, and it gave a feeble squirt before giving out. I'll go grab some more tomorrow, but in the mean time I squirted both the adjuster and the area around the center of the disk with some Marvel Mystery Oil. So, I'll see if I can get things cooperating tomorrow. If so, I MIGHT brave another road test, but I'll have to see.
  15. Good suggestion-thanks. I think I can dig up a spring gauge at work.
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