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1970mgb

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1970mgb last won the day on September 7

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About 1970mgb

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  1. Not the prettiest rebuild I've ever done, but it should be functional. I'm glad that I ended up with a complete gasket kit for the carb, which included the spindle gaskets(or whatever you want to call them). The old ones were definitely crusty and fell apart when I took the throttle shaft out. I didn't feel like going in to work to polish stuff up on the wire wheel. I mentioned tumbling earlier, but given the warnings about tiny passages to get clogged, I was afraid to tumble the body. I ended up just using a brass brush to clean it up as best as I could.
  2. Well, looks like Joe Curto supplied white plastic floats of what he calls the "I beam" style. He has a video discussion HIF float types(on Youtube) where he mentions that the "tobacco colored" cross-type float can sometimes twist and bind. I'm guessing he had the same issues reported with nitrophyl. In any case, I stuck the piston and float chamber bottom in the tumbler with walnut shells, and I'll let it run for a few hours while I've worked on stripping down and some other service to the carb body. I'll try to cycle the body and dome through the tumbler this evening and before I go to work tomorrow.
  3. I realized I'd never updated on this. The replacement radiator FINALLY arrived, and I got it installed with a bit of finagling. It didn't want to line up exactly, but I managed to get everything in place and happy. Also, the new hoses were a bit stiff and uncooperative, but I'd rather deal with them at home than on the side of the road. I thought I had everything buttoned up, so I filled it up with coolant and started it up(I was working on this last part while I was waiting on the transport truck to get here with the Marina). I spent some time going around, squeezing hoses, and "burping" things to get all the air out, which there again is not something that's foreign to me. Somewhere or another along the way, though, I noticed a drip that turned into a nice stream at the bottom radiator hose. After messing with it, I could only figure that the hose clamp had stripped. Fortunately, I was able to wrestle the old off and a new one on, and it's now sealed up tightly. I only managed to waste a gallon or so of 50/50 in all of that-when I discovered the problem, I was kind of tied to home since I was afraid they'd show up any time with the Marina and I didn't want to get caught a few miles away at the hardware store. All is well now. In fact, I've been more or less dailying it since Monday evening, and have put probably ~150 miles on it. It hasn't missed a beat!
  4. Also, the radiator hoses arrived last night. On one hand, unlike MGBs, the Marina is uncommon enough that it's nice to be able to still get NOS parts. On the other hand, there are times when I wish new parts were available, and when it comes to rubber, that is one of those times. I don't know whether it's nice or scary to see the sphincter on a "new" part you just bought. Also, last night's Autozone shopping list: 1. Some more fuel/emissions hose(most everything is crusty, and I don't trust it)...I'm not buying this any more from Autozone as Napa is usually $2-3 a foot for good Gates hose and Autozone is over $4/foot for their house brand. I'm sure the latter is fine, but I trust Gates and there's no reason to not buy it especially when it's less expensive. 2. 4 Quarts of Type F ATF. I had to hunt around a lot to find this, and finally found a single row of bottles on a bottom shelf. Supposedly, it takes 6 1/2 US pints with a pan drain, but figured it didn't hurt to have spares 3. Loctite thread locker specified for oil junctions, etc. The service manual says to put "Loctite Hydraulic" on the transmission drain plug, and I'm going to assume(dangerous, I know) that this is the modern equivalent.
  5. Oh boy-thanks for the forewarning on that. I'd like to THINK that Joe wouldn't sell the nitrophyls if they're problematic, especially since he is a rebuilder/restorer first and foremost, and wouldn't want to sell a part that has problems. I'll certainly give them a good check out before installing, though, and my old one is still good if worse comes to worse. I know there's a lot to like about the HIF, but one unfortunate thing about the design is that you can't get to the float chamber with the carb on the car like you can with HS and earlier type carbs.
  6. Thanks for the tips-HIFs are admittedly a bit of an unknown territory for me, and I'd forgotten about the bimetallic strip. Leaky floats shouldn't be a problem since Joe only supplies the black foam(nitrophyl) ones that I've come to prefer on HS type carbs. And yes I too have heard that spindle wear is really not a problem in HIF type carbs since, IIRC, the shafts ride in easily replaceable plastic(nylon?) bushings...which reminds me that I probably should have ordered some. Oh well-I'll get it later. I've been putting Dow-Corning Hi-Vac grease on my HS shafts when I have them apart, but that's not a permanent fix-I need to send a set off and let a professional(i.e. Joe) rebuild them. Poppet valves are nothing but trouble in my experience too.
  7. Sometime in the late 1960s, US spec SUs(and ZSs) started shipping with a poppet valve in the throttle disk. Supposedly, the reason was that when the when the throttle "snaps" closed, the engine goes lean for a moment and emissions go way up. The poppet would open to somewhat balance things out. The problem with the poppet is two fold. For one thing, it's a big obstruction in the flow through the carburetor throat. Admittedly this isn't a big deal in most street cars, but at the same time you have such a small amount of power to start with tha even little things like that can help(and an automatic US spec Marina needs all the help it can get). The second thing is that the springs are not very strong, and can also be ruined even with one good backfire through the carb. Once the spring goes bad, the valve can "leak" and cause an unstable idle. Yes, technically getting rid of it is removing factory emissions equipment, a felony, but I'd challenge even the most diligent CARB(California Air Resource Board) inspector to find it.
  8. A new pan gasket and screen is on its way, so hopefully that will help things out. I hope I can get the linkage sorted out too while I'm under there. The parts list so far is a bit daunting, and I still need to do tires. While I'm sorting out other stuff, I'm considering putting the car up on stands, pulling the wheels, and running them to the tire shop so at least they'll be in good shape when it's all said and done. Here's what I've bought: 1. Points, cap, and rotor(haven't even installed yet since it's currently running okay) 2. Ignition switch from Skip-got the car running 3. Miscellaneous items at NAPA including fuel hose, hose clamps, fuel filter(Just told them I'm buying for an MGB to make life easier), oil, etc 4. Scott's toilet paper from the dollar store for the bypass oil filter 5. Carburetor parts(float, needle valve, gasket pack, solid disk butterfly) from Joe Curto 6. Upper and lower radiator hoses from Skip 7. Transmission pan gasket and screen from Skip
  9. Glad I never bought Distributor Doctor points. The price turns me off, but seeing the quality scares me. You're probably better off with the Moss or other supplier points. As for the headlight switch-the new ones from Moss and the other suppliers all come from the same Chinese source, and they're all universally crap. You're lucky to get a year out of one if you use the lights with some frequency, which seems to be about the lifetime of most current production green box Lucas stuff. When mine went out earlier this year, I hunted down a new old stock red box Lucas replacement. It cost me about $50, but was worth every penny(one of these days, I'll get around to putting relays on my headlights, which not only makes them brighter but also saves the switch-I was surprised to find relays from the factory on the Marina).
  10. Yes, it's a BW35. The selector is coming detached from the rod the metal rod that runs up the left side of the transmission to a lever on the side of it. I've actually reattached it a couple of times, but access is very awkward. I've not actually seen it-just felt it-but I can't seem to get the retainer to connect correctly. It looks like I'm going to have to jack it up higher than I have been to get at it. With it connected, I CAN feel the detents for all the selector positions. The fluid is at the bottom end of the "cold" mark when cold and is bright red. I had someone on the Marina forum advise that they had seen something similar on a car that sat for about as long as mine, and a drain, new pan gasket/strainer, and refill fixed it-it seems as though sitting for a while had given the sediment time to drop out, causing all kinds of problems when it was brought back in to service. I've also been advised that its reluctance for both reverse and first is a good sign, since only one gear is probably a bad band while multiple is probably a servo issue. I know, though, that I'm also talking to a guy who rebuilt an auto box at home, so forgive me if I sound like I'm talking out my rear . I've mentioned before that automatics are sort of black magic to me, and if it needs much more than a fluid change, it's either going to be a time for me to REALLY learn about automatics or to hand it off to a professional.
  11. Oh, don't worry, I have several. I still think test lights have their place, though, just for a gross and convenient check of whether or not a circuit is live. I have been doing all of the electrical troubleshooting up to this point with a meter, and find myself longing for a light again.
  12. So, as a bit of an update: The electrics still have some gremlins, but at least I'm getting SOMEWHERE. I put the new ignition switch in it, and with a bit of futzing I at least managed to get it sending power to the coil. After that, it would run a few seconds on ether(better than I was doing before) but the mechanical pump seemingly wasn't working. Removing and reseating the fuse got the electric pump working. So, with the carb full of gas, I actually got it started and running. It's idling a bit high, but that is the least of my worries now. It also is smoky and smells bad, especially when revved, but hopefully a nice flogging on the road will take care of that. Unfortunately, the carb also has a small leak, so I'll need to call Joe Curto tomorrow. My experience with HIF type carbs is minimal, and to me all perishible parts are suspect, so I'll get Joe to send me a gasket set, float, valve and seat, and possibly a solid throttle disk(I hate the poppet valves that this would have had from the factory, but I need to see if it has a solid throttle first since I could also see Glenn changing that when he rebuilt the engine in the 80s). Unfortunately, I have another problem, and the service manual isn't a lot of help now on even knowing where to look. The shift lever is seemingly loose from the linkage, so I couldn't get it in gear. I got it to "hop" a few times and may have been able to finesse it in, but I also didn't want to risk going for a drive and finding that I couldn't get it back out of drive when done. This is definite progress, though.
  13. As tempting as it is to use "any old bulb and wire" for $3 at Harbor Freight I get: 1. A nice sturdy alligator clip to clip wherever convenient 2. A long, sharp probe that's easier to maneuver than a bare wire end 3. The bulb is "buried" well enough in the handle that I don't have to worry about breaking it Also, I'm slowly rebuilding my tool supply since my box was stolen back in January. I stopped in at NAPA yesterday for some fuel hose and a fuel filter, but while I was there picked up a new dial-back timing light and a compression gauge. I still need to replace my home-made leakdown tester, but I might actually buy one this time around. Oh, I also picked up another 1 5/16" socket, which is the size of crankshaft nut on the front of B series engines. The new points, cap, and rotor arrived today. The ignition switch should be here on Friday, so hopefully things are coming together. I'm going to try and get the mechanical fuel pump installed before then, but it's still miserably hot out there so my time working is limited. I did get the MG going again(finally got everything ironed out with the radiator) so that's off my plate for now. While I'm waiting on the other parts, I'm going to try and at least do an oil change in the Marina. I need to go to the dollar store and get some "John Wayne" toilet paper for the Frantz filter, while there are a few Bosch branded spin-ons in the trunk. I had bought some Supertech(Wal-Mart) 20W-50 for my most recent oil change in the MG, but decided to go with tried-and-true VR-1 instead. I'll probably use that oil in the Marina for a short change interval to clean things up after sitting for 10 years, although honestly it looks pretty clean now.
  14. The electrical system on the Marina seems to be FUBAR and at the moment I'm just trying to make heads or tails of it. For starters, I think that the ignition switch has issues. I sort of started getting clued in to it since the wipers would only work if I held the key just a bit past "on" but not quite to "start". A bit more probing around showed me that the coil was only getting power when cranking(it's ballasted, so the cranking power goes through its own circuit that bypasses the resistor), most of the fuse box is dead, and honestly just a lot of things that SHOULD get power just aren't. I popped the steering column cowling off, and not only was I not measuring any voltage at the back of the switch unless I flipped it over to crank, but the back of the ignition switch was also partially off! I pulled it to bring it inside away from the heat/humidity(it was a hair over 90ºF when I got in from work this evening) and only succeeded in turning the ignition switch into a big pile of parts. Fortunately, Skip saves the day, as I texted him and he reported that he has a bunch of NOS red box Lucas ones. I still need to sort out some other odds and ends that just don't make sense. As an example, there's a light green and red wire fastened together with a quick splice(I hate those things) running to the starter, but there's no indication that either of those wire colors should be anywhere near that part of the car. I need to head to Harbor Freight and get another test light(my last one got eaten by the engine fan on the MG a few years ago). I know it's a lot more low tech than a voltmeter, but fundamentally it gives the same information and has a much greater range of visibility than the little LCD on a voltmeter. Sometime tells me I have a LOT of wire tracing ahead of me before I can even drive this.
  15. The tank was actually empty, which was a nice surprise. I tried both sucking it out with a Mightvac and blowing it out through the Evap line...the latter just got a rush of faintly gassy-smelling air through the fuel line. After I put a gallon in yesterday, what I sucked out with the Mightyvac looks a BIT more yellow than what went in, but it wasn't terrible. I'm thinking I'll pump that out(through the line to give it a good cleaning) and then add a few gallons back in. This nice surprise was waiting for me behind the fuel filler door...fortunately there were no signs of life from it, and a screwdriver had things good and clear.
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