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rusty_vw_man

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  1. Been pottering around locally, DIY supplies, the tip, that sort of thing and it’s been fine. Middle sprog’s birthday treat was pepper pig world at Paultons park, a mere 480 mile round trip. Van was selected over the modern due to more space, more fridge and “a run will do it good”….. It did very well, except the brakes developed a bit of an issue. From cold they work fine - inch or so of pedal movement before nice firm progressive braking. After about 90-120 minutes driving the amount of movement increased to quite a few inches, much less progressive pedal, quite a wooden feeing, and slight* feeling of unease. However at this stage a second application returned a very firm and progressive pedal. Checked for leaks and fluid level, all fine. Stopped for lunch, all cooled down and they were like new again. Pattern repeated all weekend. No fluid lost. No worse on long descents. No smells, hot wheels or signs of dragging. No idea what’s wrong, but figured duration must equal heat, lack of performance due to heat must be boiling fluid, so must have a bit of old fluid somewhere that needs seeing out - thought I did this when I changed the master cylinder, but may be not…. As above it’s got new master cylinder and calipers, plus new flexi hoses so there is a limit to what can be wrong. Otherwise it used 500ml oil, did 22mpeegees and achieved a top speed of 71 mph (briefly!) Nothing at Paultons Park was quite as exciting as the first time the pedal dropped a bit further than I was expecting whilst doing 60mph towards the rear of an Aldi lorry stopped at some traffic lights……
  2. I find this thread and your persistence with getting the gearbox to work inspiring - I’d have launched the whole lot across the garage in frustration by now. Also fascinating to see how an automatic gearbox works, I’d just assumed it was voodoo and black magic, but your explanations actually make it sounds reasonably simple*…. Hope that when you split the modulator valve there is something obviously fixable!
  3. So the brakes were sorted on the van and it’s been doing builder merchant duty for some diy for the last week, but today was a trip out - 80 mile round trip to see friends for a walk in the forest near Dolgellau. Drive there fine, but on the way back a tapping started - gentle at first, but progressively more aggressive. Matched road speed not engine speed, so started thinking CV joints, those newly replaced front wheel bearings or possibly a calliper coming astray. Quick stop in a lay-by, scruffy clothes on (always carry scruffy clothes!) and a quick poke round. Culprit was finally located - wheel nuts on back wheel were a little* loose, looks like my tactic of never putting the hubcaps back on without a final tweak to check had failed me. Nuts done up we were away again, tapping all gone. Near home my wife congratulated me on all the work done, the quick fix and how well it was running and how good it felt to be using it again, but then spoilt it all by asking me what I thought would break next…..
  4. That’s lovely, makes me miss mine! I had a 1969 1200 which was similarly spartan, then a 1971 1300 which came with all the luxuries like two sun visors and a wing mirror on both sides! Bad news on the clutch cable, they are cheap and theoretically easy but can be a bit of a fiddle, although yours looks in generally better condition so maybe the conduit won’t be full of rust!!
  5. Up again at 06:30, tidied up, refitted the dash, one last safety bleed (woo goo no bubbles) and test drive I had a firm and consistent peddle. More driving later to check further but it might be fixed. I hate working on brakes, can never shake that feeling of how critical they are and have a nagging fear for miles and miles that they aren’t fixed or might stop working!!
  6. These are a whopping 7mm nipples. The fronts are new, but the rears are old, didn’t even bother with a spanner, straight in with a set of baby mole grips. I’ve only done VW brakes, so until your comment I’d never thought there might be a bigger better way!!
  7. So, MOT Monday go out on Wednesday to buy petrol and brake failure. Pedal to the floor, but some residual pressure so limped it home. Diagnosis: master cylinder. Only trouble is that having got an MOT I have made plans to actually use it as a van, and these plans aren’t that flexible (taken leave to start some building work). So thanks to 24 delivery, a new one arrived - it’s only money. Plan was to start straight after tea, but then the 5 year old bought head lice home from school, so spent a happy few hours nuking everyone’s heads because once I’ve seen one I can’t leave it a minute, horrible little things…. So when I finally got ‘me time’ it looked like this in my yard - dark. Yay. Could hear the local bar doing karaoke, sweeeet Caroline, do do do something sweeeeeeet Caroline…… followed by annnnd after allll your my wonderrrrrwallll New fluid went in last week, but it had turned to this, yummy: New one fitted - yes it’s deep inside the dash and it’s impossible to work in without flooding everything with brake fluid: this while footwell was awash with brake fluid - nice* but at least the floor is clean now: Took an age to bleed as this bastard nipple was letting in air - so it was bleed fine, it just looked bubbly - if everyone could frown at this one dissapproveingly for me i’d be grateful did find that an old bike inner tube was a great source of air for the power bleeder though, much handier than the spare tire. Just need to rebuild the dash first thing in day light and go and road test it, but I think I’m done. Best night out I’ve had since lock down…..
  8. On the basis it’s broken now I’d go brutal and use a cold chisel and a hammer to pop a notch in that inner thread then try and drift it round, or as mentioned above drill a couple of strategic holes and use a angle grinder pin spanner on it…. It’s probably being held in by limescale, so there might be some mileage in soaking it in something suitably acidic first as well. is there any step in the outside? Could you attack it with some Stilsons? Failing that comprehensive home insurance cover and some matches might be easier than trying to replace the whole lot!! The little floaty disc should be attached to the nut on the end of the bit you’ve got out as you probably know.
  9. Arse! Could you posts a picture of the remains with the bit of valve that comes out removed? Might make it easier to see the full extent of the horror and make some suggestions....
  10. I was until recently, but moved to a house with an area I can get it off the road. I’ve been lucky everywhere I’ve lived in that people have clearly viewed my car antics as endearing rather than annoying!
  11. So long time waiting for the time to get onto this, but finally pulled my finger out and got on with it. I have no photos of this painful process as the welder was playing up, it just wouldn’t feed consistently so it was all splatters and uneven, plus gas less as outside and the new wire I’d got was cheap, but made mainly of smoke. The rage set in, but did finally find the ferrule on the wire liner had managed to kink in it which was the main problem. I then blasted through it all and only managed a few burns down my sleeves, in my ear (sizzly) and in my boot. This was quickly followed by new pads and discs and another test, which ended up as another fail as the callipers having been pushed back for the first time in years seized and created ‘excessive binding’. In no mood to mess around I got two new ones, and lines and flex is and whipped all that on. found why headlight adjustment was proving tricky as well, although the MOT man was willing to turn a blind eye - the PO had used some hidden wood screws to hold the lights in, which rendered the adjusters ornamental. Nice. New adjusters (HOW MUCH!?!) fitted and pointed vaguely forward got me this: only took seven months. several hundred in parts plus £280 spunked to the men from the ministry to remove the SORN and I’m away again. On the way home from the successful test it rewarded me by the speedo stopping working and the radio refusing to tune…..
  12. It’s been wet and miserable and I’ve been busy so time for old shite fiddling has been short. Finally got time to have a look at the MOT fail rust. crusty: Angry grinder shows it’s nasty inside: Access hatch: and now the rots gone along with a fair bit of van: the off cuts: just waiting now for the postman to bring me some 2mm and 3mm steel and some more MIG wire and I can start making good.....
  13. There are a lot of low budget but ultimately practical cars listed - grim, but serving a market to keep the poor (or poorly sighted) mobile. For me the grimmest are luxury* cars in base spec, probably summed up most by those nasty base spec Audi TT’s with tiny engine and single exhaust pipe with a blanking plate over the second hole. If you only have so much to spend, use it to buy a nice car of marque and model you can afford (like a 20 year old Vauxhall Astra) rather than stretching yourself to buy the badge, but attached to a car with all the bits that would make it nice/fun/luxury/tasteful stripped off to make it just about affordable.
  14. Just a Volvo for me I think: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-13334-Amazon-Historic-Vehicle/254814077367?hash=item3b541a41b7:g:U14AAOSw3C5fQPDy
  15. If you had a valid MOT the date got shunted on 6 months - this one didn’t have an mot as less than three years old, hence a pass was registered as there was no extension to grant. The fascinating* world of the DVLA!!
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