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rusty_vw_man

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  1. There is - they measure it for you free of charge and offer to change the belt if it fails their test, but you pay for this bit. I may be cynical, but I wouldn’t trust me local dealer to ask me to get my wallet out regardless of any measurements. I have a very late model one, which as it turns out has a later style narrow belt fitted, which apparently is not as prone to disintegrating if you use the correct spec oil and regularly use it longer distance so it gets nice and hot. Apparently the worst thing for them is short cold drives. As it’s 7 years old shortly it’s going to get moved on anyway as company car allowance has a maximum age limit.
  2. Two long days of cutting, welding and setting fire to things (mainly underseal, the sleeve of my overalls and my angle grinder that self combusted) I have done it: and better still it actually works: despite knowing that there is a shed load of new steel in there replacing the rusty scraps and it being so much stronger I always get the fear when I first lower it down. It needs a touch of filler and the seam line reinstating on the side, but I have plans to paint it this summer so it’ll do for now. Wing is also crusty throughout, especially the return lip so more to be done in that as well. Also welded up the front step, the missus was underwhelmed by the gaffer tape that kept the water out. No pictures of that, it was a ropey old repair to start with, and I haven’t improved the look of it, although it’s now water tight without the tape! New step section needed, but again, it’ll do for now. As an aside, if you’re slicing open packaging to get to your welding consumables, using a brand new Stanley blade, try and avoid just stabbing it with all your force into your index finger….
  3. Hmmm, one is not like the other: still searching for that elusive solid bit that I can weld some new bits to:
  4. It’s a common grot spot isn’t it - made some temporary’s repairs on the other side 4 years ago. This side has been done a few years before I got it by a professional. I have been keeping half an eye on it so it’s not a total surprise, but it is worse than I hoped it might be.
  5. Time for a wash, but the jet washer dislodged a little chunk of paint, and then a little bit more: hmmm, looks a touch rusty underneath, and a bit of filler/fibreglass, which wasn’t me. I’ll just give it a quick brush over and put some rust killer on: Not sure rust converter works on air. Let’s just check round the back: Oh ffs. my trailing arm appears to be held on by a few scraps of rust and some strings of underseal. Luckily I can buy a new mount all neatly fabbed up in 4mm steel, so just need to do a bit of cutting, welding and swearing and it’ll be like new. Probably best leave it in the jack for now!
  6. I have a secret hankering for a Chevy suburban: it’s like a car and a van and a hearse all in one. It actually has a boot larger than Lichtenstein. Fact. Think of all the shit I could fit in there, I’d be the envy of the local council tip recycling centre….
  7. Mr Citroen decided on the C3 Picasso that the bits of metal below the rear lights would be best as part of the boot lid, giving it little wings: these mean that there are four sharp corners at exactly 5’11” from the floor. They have caused bleeding more than once. Why they couldn’t have just kept these as part of the rear hatch, or made the boot open a little further I will never know. At least when suffering from the mild concussion they give me from time to time I can forget I drive it.
  8. Van is behaving fine so not much to say. However, took the modern (7 year old C3 Picasso) for an MOT and it failed. Since pretty much new the rear discs have looked like rusty shite, but each year have passed. This year the tester him say no - passed the brake efficiency tests, but not the visual have they been recovered from the sea test. Was a bit peeved until I found the pads had got a bit* thin metal on metal. Passed efficiency and no noises. Probably was due a change! Disc was a little crispy as well Modern cars are so much simpler - discs come with sealed bearing pre installed, no faffing around with grease, and bearing drifts, just out the box, on and do up the nut. Could get used to this. MOT man charged me a £20 partial retest for the pleasure of looking at the car from a distance and saying he could see they shiny new bits. Not sure how u feel about that, but a pass is now achieved…..
  9. General consensus seems to be if it’s been off before your in with a shot, if it’s original it’s probably at one with the shaft. Sont think you’d get the dugga dugga in there unless you have a fancy 90 degree one.
  10. If you haven’t seen it this is a handy if slightly optimistic run down http://www.vw-resource.com/housing.html
  11. This is the one where the fan nut had become as one with the shaft. Having to drop the engine to sort this led to a quick engine swap with the van whilst it was out (as you do): Happy days.
  12. It all depends if you can get the fan nut off in situ. I wish you all the luck, it is possibly the most annoying job to complete, as everything is about 5mm too big to clear what you want it to. I have managed once with engine in, and once with engine out. I would start engine in if doing it again, with engine out as plan b. Good luck!!
  13. They were doing them 12 years ago at least, so it’s not a recent marketing gimmick.
  14. When I lived in Lewisham I used to use the original one in Deptford arches all the time. MOTs and air con re-gas is all they did. About the only thing I miss about London! Spotless premises, fair tests and they definitely failed people (well at least they did me!). You knew where you stood though as there was never any conflict of interest with the test. I think they should all be like this to be honest. They also did early to late hours and courtesy cars, so it couldn’t be easier to get a test. They had a load of lanes, so I suspect it made money by shear volume.
  15. Citroen Bering pickup anyone?! It’s in a fetching red oxide primer, with overspray on everything. The only real question is why?
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