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Posts posted by Tigerfox
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- rusty_vw_man, SiC, adw1977 and 2 others
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The 4 plate method that you mention is what I had in mind
Havent done any welding for 40 years, used to do mig, stick and ally, but will have to get a man in
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22 minutes ago, Mr Pastry said:
Do you have an engineering drawing (or just a dimensioned sketch) of the spring mounts you could post?
No there is nothing available as far as i am aware. I intend to make a triangular jig to bolt to the chassis through existing holes so that i can be sure of the mount position.
I then intend to cut the mount off and use it as a pattern to get a pair made. The other question is the grade of steel to make it from
The picture below shows what the front of the chassis should look like
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16 hours ago, Mr Pastry said:
I would watch the Riley with interest. How much of it have you actually got?
I have a complete running chassis, that is totally dismantled and knackered. The first problem is too find somebody to machine the front spring mounts,on the right (see photo )as they are welded into the chassis and then I can make some dumb irons and cross member. I do have 2 new springs so that will make getting the front square. The chassis itself is 2 3mm U sections pushed together
Engine is need of a rebuild as the white metal on one big end detached its self living a very scored bore and piston
So plenty to go at, no budget and I am very nearly a oap, so will have the time but not all the skills
- tooSavvy and CreepingJesus
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Used to drive one of those sometimes when I was a lad.
Only remember a couple of things on it. You always had to let it idle for 5 minutes after working it to allow the turbo to cool down. It had a 8 speed gearbox and a foot operated button on the floor that gave you half a gear so you could keep it where you wanted it in the rev range.
- Dyslexic Viking and Vantman
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Radio fault only appeared this week. Fan has been stuck on for weeks, but now the weather has improved no need for heater fan.
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Radio problem resolved for now as I took it out, so should not drain the battery.
The heater fan is as you say @RoverFolkUs. It comes on as soon as the engine is running and blasts hot air at the top fan speed. The digital display for the fan, air con etc is not working, disconected it but made no difference.
Going to try disconecting the battery to see if that changes anything. I suspect the heater resistor might have failed but dont understand how this affects the radio. Mind you if changing a bulb or fuse is not a cure its beyond my electrical abilty.
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After reading in another post about posting I thought I would do my bit.
Corsa is still on the drive and has been off the road 4 years I think, but having space in the garage now the 505 has gone I will get it in and see what it needs, wont be quick
You will not be surprised to know that a 18 year old French car has electrical problems. Picasso has radio on 24/7 and the heater blows hot on full speed and also cannot be switched off. Going to try remove a few bits this weekend after disconecting battery hoping that resets something.
Riley 9 No progress but I have bought some steel to see about repairing the chassis. Dont hold your breath
- Cookiesouwest, JMotor and privatewire
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Back in the day I worked in VW garage and you could order the plates direct from the factory if I remember correctly.
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Its getting like a BL dealership at your place !
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- stuboy, mitsisigma01, RobT and 1 other
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11 minutes ago, grogee said:
£99 Yaris! 12m MoT and a mismatched wing for extra AS points. Be quick! Market Harborough
Ad claims 12 months mot, it has only 6 weeks. I am in MH but suspect its a seller from the travellers
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I recently sold my 505 which i had owned for 30 years, but 20 off the road. I too did not have the welding ability and with 3 cars, 1 garage, needed a decison on what to do
Which car means the most too you ? For me my Riley 9 meant the most, 505 was sold and Corsa will depend on how long the mot fail is.
I did not feel sad when the 505 went and it has improved my mojo for doing the Riley.
Keep 1 or 2, but only you know which one you would rather have
Hope that helps
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All sorted.
The ribbed belt broke and took out the crank sensor, hence the instant stop.
Thanks for the suggestions
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21 minutes ago, grogee said:
Some diagnostic codes would help, also did it go 'bang' or just die without drama?
You can get a code reader for not much £ or one of us can help if you're nearby (happy to read codes, I'm in Southam, Warwickshire).
It just cut out as he was driving, its a 2.0 tdci His code reader wont read any fault codes. Recovery chap said fuel pump has failed which does not
seem likely to me. Car is in Coalville and is due to get some diagnostics tomorrow.
Could well be up for sale later in the week if not a easy fix
"Autoshite High Mileage Club" - Memberships Available!
in AutoShite
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Thought i was doing well till reading some of the mileages on here.
And yes i can see it needs a clean !