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Crispian_J_Hotson last won the day on January 18

Crispian_J_Hotson had the most liked content!


  • On a plight to defeat the yellow light!

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Rank: Renault 16

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  1. CHECK 1-2... WOW, I've just been on an adventure... from hell... I've just spent 2 days bound up in the rear suspension, trying to sort out from the subframe to those bleedin bushes! The subframe was minging, a past custodian had carried out work that involved painting all the rust, stones, and mud in MOT black and it wasn't pretty. Like most British made products, the bits you don't see much get infested with corrosion and the case of the rear frame on these S Bypes is no different. I only wanted to swap some bushes over but I couldn't ignore that. So, most of the rear frame got a beating from some blunt metal, a wire brushing and a tickle of rust cure and prevention. This car is also haunted. I now know this because for the third time, I have gone to take images of it close up and my phone battery has died after a couple of snaps with over 40% battery left. Today was 56% and this does not happen elsewhere, so explain that. I started with the OSR bottom arm off, that involves removing most of the stuff in the way but I did see that it had replacement copper brake lines routed badly and replacement speed sensors of which the wiring was left laying on active suspension components. These were put right. The rear track rods are almost toast and I have cheapy replacements but opted to wait until I can get the proper kit, funds are tight to non existent for now for this car as it's eaten everything! Hold that thought though. A professional* had been here before as there was evidence of sawing out stuck bolts and hammer marks on the handbrake calipers which I had to file out so they looked half decent again. They had beaten the crap out of that one, so it must have stuck at some point, which is normal. The bushes were pressed forcefully taken out and there was nothing nice about that. The arm did not fit in the press at all to remove them, so a bit of heat and 9000 wops with thor saw them gone. Stupid things. Little did I know that these new bushes (the metal insert is missing in the image) were going to bite me right in the arse! The arms were manky so I found some cheap primer in the shed to cheer them up a bit. I'm not sure if the 'SC' on them means for the supercharged? I compared them to the spare 3L arms and they are only a bit beefier, but they are pretty much identical. I reckon that in the event of an emergency, the 3L ones could be used. More painting of 'orrible bits... Refitting the arms... And that went great. That was until I came to tighten the last bolt on the NSR lower arm. CRRRRACCKK! What the? At that point I really done well to not smash anything up, even my beanie stayed on despite moving down into my eyes constantly and irritating the fcuk outta me. How did this happen then? Well, it goes back to Jaguar using 2 sized bushes in the arm and 1 size carrier hub. No-one knows what's going on so they say "measure it M8", which I did. I have the smaller ones at 54mm or something. The bigger are 59mm. Because they don't do 54mm aftermarket poly they say use the inner bushes here and it'll work out right for ya. As we can see, it doesn't. I'm pissed about that because if I had been tightening it laying underneath, I would have seen that the ally carrier could not have taken the slack, instead I had the stupid brake disc in my face and done it blind. To compound the issue, this was the NS and that wasn't even causing a problem in the first place! I just had to be proper and do it right by changing in pairs... IDIOT! Well, that's what I said at the time. Upon reflection, it's happened, lessons have been learnt, and it needs sorting out. Do you remember what I said above about all the funds have been rinsed? Yeah, this peach of a job just set me back another £205 in repairs with the bonus that I can't use the car either. Wot a reeesult M8! A warrantied replacement carrier with fitted new bearing is zooming it's way over here as we speak. Defying the human instinct of wanting to shove heavy metal things through the windows of the car, I am still managing to turn bad things into good things. This NS has the mother of all diff leaks from the output shaft seal, so I've got a seal coming too with the appropriate oil to put in after. When I replace the carrier and inevitably break the one on the other side, I'll pull the driveshaft and stick that in, where I'll no doubt find that it needs a new diff. The bushes will need packing out which apparently is the norm and that does not mean that the packing washers supplied in the bush kit are the ones for the actual packing, no, I need to use those and add more. Why then couldn't I just get the bigger bush in the first place? My mind has had enough. In the meantime, have a happy picture of the car taken last week just after it threw its EML for that lean fault...
  2. Not all cars. I watched a scottie kilmer stint where he was flapping his arms about over a $1k V6 rwd Cadillac with borked cats and an appetite for oil. Worthless in emission controlled states, and the supercharged v8 was described as worse. FWD's are a gearbox eating pig or something to that effect. They sound perfect. If they didn't sink in water, I'd have them floated over here immediately.
  3. Literally just discussing this elsewhere! Of course, it leads on to the manufacturers 'sealed for life' debate. (which we're not having on this thread thank you very much!)
  4. SUPERCHARGER TIYME111 I've never had a car with one so I've never done this bit. I carried out extensive research last night in preparation. There are some key points: Access is a bitch and getting the oil out is worse. The old oil stinks and maybe radioactive* It needs around 125ml of new oil in it or until it comes back out the fill hole. Plug any gaps around the teeny tiny fill plug so that it doesn't drop down into oblivion and get lost forever. Job duration: up to three hours. Welp, that wasn't too bad really. Great tip to ram something down the engine to close off any holes. The plug got dropped several times whilst I fudged around with my sausage fingers. The Americans say a 3/16th allen key goes in. I could not get an allen key in there, 4mm was too small and 5mm couldn't get in, I think I have one 4.5mm but that's MIA by the looks of things. So, being British, I stuck a T30 in there and cracked it off by sticking a tube over it. For what it was worth, I removed the intake, because you need too really and took off another breather from bank 1, it just made tight access that little bit better, plus I could see if the breather plastic hose had gone brittle, which it hasn't. I found that it paid to clean the face with a wire brush as there was a lot of debris shifting about and I didn't want that going back in there. I messed about with sucking out stuff, I read that there was some success by attaching a WD40 type straw to the syringe but I only managed to pull out 40 odd ml and I couldn't seal the pipe joins enough. It just seemed to suck in more air than strain it through the small straw. So I went to the shed. In there I found a 1986 BMW vacuum line. And this had a handy shape in it... This allowed the tube supplied in the oil pack to be forced over and secured with a tie. The bore was bigger too so sucking was not such a slow process. I cut the end at an angle as I believe this would allow the end to slip in places better than a straight cut end. Ignore the crap on it, this was taken when I was clearing up! I still messed around trying to get the tube somewhere near any oil, it's a bit like blindly smashing it into a brick wall. I read that going to the left has better results as something was obstructing the entry point. I wondered what this was so got the endoscope out. Top of hole... Bottom left of hole... So there is a giant bit of metal in the way but also a little passage but I only had a 5mm gap between the cog and the casing. Shooting the tube over to the left and massaging it downwards saw success. The rear of the car was jacked up a little and I removed a total of 127ml from the supercharger. They aren't joking when they say the old fluid looks like a black coffee. The smell wasn't too bad, I can describe it as 'synthetic fish', and you can taste it in the air. It tastes exactly like it smells... which is weird. Getting the car level, I removed the makeshift oil sucker pipework and just used what came in the kit. I got 150ml of new oil in with it dribbling out. Getting the plug back in was fiddly, verging on frustrating, and this is where the rammed in tissue comes into play... but it got there in the end. It's either loose or tight and I didn't want to hang off it because hopefully, it'll see another change. It took a shade over 2 hours from getting the stuff out and putting it away, so not too bad! Out on the road, I could now hear the charger where as before it was pretty silent and in the background, that raised a smile! I still have this exhaust sounding blow to find. It sounds like its coming from bank 1 when I'm in the car but out of the car, I can't hear it at all. I can't see anything obvious and it only does it under load. There is a clear blow under the car from both mid section joints, but this doesn't sound like the location, is the noise travelling up? I dunno... I might live with it until I get the whole exhaust replaced soon. They can find it then. There are no issues with top ends being starved of oil or anything are there? I was thinking it might be a lifter or something similar? Oh, and the drivers wiper arm base no longer hits the bonnet! So spacing it out and shifting the linkage mechanism as far up as possible has achieved something, despite play in the brass bearing. The car shifts though, the Traction control is always on standby and getting used on these cold wet roads! Very pleased with the results so far.
  5. First off, the bit I've been wanting to get at for a while... the pollen filter! This sucker (see what I did there?) had been in there for a while and was quite heavy. Note the date on it. Then it was a look at the linkage. The actual linkage bit is fine but there is wear on a brass sleeve in the drivers wiper mount. This is causing some movement. The spindle also rises and falls vertically by about 10mm for whatever reason. A washer and retaining circlip have been removed prior to this image being taken. I ate up this play by temporarily installing a couple of washers to see it's effect. The whole mechanism was unbolted and those bolts greased and put back in, forcing the mechanism as far up towards the windscreen as possible. I'd like to see if I can replace that brass bushing and also see if the mechanism removes without taking out the servo! A bit of garden hose was stuck in the vacuum and taped in place, this allowed me to suck out all the debris laying about in the depths. The rubber drain was removed from the drivers side, it was blocked. There was a fair bit of corrosion there too so it was all cleaned off, as were the wiper arm spindles. Liberal amounts of grease was applied absolutely everywhere. This is something that I done on my black Stype some years ago which was in bad shape, much like this, and it has been trouble free maintenance since then. The passenger side drain was also blocked, pine needles too, and a lot of them! This image was taken after I had spent too long ramming a small vacuum hose down there and it repeatedly blocking and pulling crap up. So, to better access this I removed the cabin filter box and the plastic tray surround under that. I couldn't get the tray surround out as it seems the strut bar needs to come out and I've seen all those bolts shear and I'm not ready for that fight yet, so left that in and just moved it over to make access. It cleaned up well with a final wipe over with my oily rag. Then the plastics were cleaned and refitted. The screen and plastic deflectors to the sides were all cleaned too. There was some remains of insulation but I removed it as it was falling to bits and covering all my cleaned bits with white dust. I shall get some thermal deadening mat to replace it. At least now I can access there with no more bother. A new filter was bunged in and it was all put back. The drivers wiper now does not contact the bonnet despite the wear, it's close but misses in some weird display of optical illusion. Next is to change the supercharger oil, which is a bit of a laugh*. Never done it, so I'll find out!
  6. Of course as it would have something to seat in, but I try and save drills and hammers on things like this for the 'I have no options left/ die you bastard' scenario. The main issue with this particular element was trying to keep a bite on the underside. She's getting lubed, refit post imminent.
  7. I had plenty of other plans bubbling away. The main issue, of a few, is that the arm sits pretty much up against the scuttle plastic. I was starting to think that I'd have to put the wipers on, and then pull the battery earth/ pull a fuse whilst they were vertical to allow more wiggle room. It has all been assembled now which I will put up in a bit but I think, if this happens again then the set up I invented* is more than capable. You could, if you felt the need, grind flat points into the underside of the arm and paint it although I think that's a bit extreme. Corrosion between the ally arm and steel spindle is what is causing this issue. The actual arm nuts are not supposed to be that tight, 17Nm or something.
  8. Say, er... that list of works to do today was a bit optimistic. I couldn't get a start on it until lunchtime and then it took another 45 minutes attempting to get the wiper arm off. Brian struggled. I had to disassemble Brian as a fundimental part of it would not work due to the wiper arm being in the way. We are now naming it Bri, as 50% of the tool is missing. The issue was that I could not fit the bolts which kept the two sides of the puller taught. This meant that it would just clumsily slip over the arm. I had an idea. PLAN A The pressure screw just slipped off the spindle. Darn it. PLAN B Add more ties and the nut. The clamp just slipped over the wiper arm. Darn it! PLAN C Add tie lower down. She's biting but still slipping clumsily off. Darn it! PLAN D Install a socket at the top to stop the clamps collapsing... It's tight, is it working? Nope. The clamps are still loosing bite but only on one side. Progress? PLAN E Introduce something for the clamp to bite on... The cable ties are now stretching and it's loosing grip, and clumsily falling apart. This isn't working is it? PLAN F Moar tougher restraint! POP! YAY! (distant round of applause) That took way longer than it should have. There are a couple of factors here that didn't help. a) there's no room to put a tool in and 2) the bottom of the arm is beveled. Still, we won. Then the real nasty stuff could commence!
  9. I can see at least two brake lines that should have been changed by now 😁
  10. And you'd be right. Where you find change in the car in the centre console, this has the old pound coins in there, they went out in 2017. Other history all points to the car being unserviced since 2016, but it was still used in short drives right up until sale, so it would have had a few quids worth of E10 chucked in it since 2021, and it would have sat about. Fortunately, I only run the petrol jags on E5 in practice, if i get caught out i e. 'no super M8', I'll only stick minimal E10 in and flush it out as soon as possible with a good glug of E5. The cars can sit for weeks, even months at a time sometimes.
  11. Yeah, I knew it was going to be an arsehole so was pretty prepared. The bullshit with the sayle was the worst bit and I didn't expect any of that. I gotta admit though, it's been coming thick and fast but then I've been looking for it and it just makes me more determined to put it right. But I'll end up with a well sorted motah that I've wanted for a long time and to be honest, thought I'd missed the boat on. Currently hanging off the back of said boat, and trying to clamber on.
  12. Buy the black one, its got a load of life left in it and I'll sort you a price out! At least you'll know what's wrong with it! 😆
  13. God, this cold is tragic. It's not so much the air, it's the ground. I'm layering up my socks, I think I'm on the 27th layer right now. It's a sod to get them all off but man, I'm like 7 inches taller!
  14. Cor, all my recent orders turned up at once today, except one and I'll get onto that later. The O2 sensor sockets, the supercharger oil kit and the cutest little puller that I've ever seen, so I've called it Brian. This will get that pesky wiper off. What didn't turn up was the rear poly bushes and that's because they never ordered them and never told me. So I've been chasing my tail with it. I got notification of a refund today which means once that is in my bottomless pit of a bank account, I will go direct to Powerflex and pay the full price. I took a gamble and lost this time. GB Enterprises Performance Engine Solutions- get in the sea. I'm going to have to hit the car hard tomorrow as now I have the: Fuel supply to look at for debris from the fuel filter that shat itself. Supercharger oil to change- recommended at 40,000 miles, not lifetime. This won't have ever been done. Once that's done, it'll grenade itself. Bulkhead drains to clear and wiper mounting to 'fix', whatever that issue is, and a pollen filter to stick in. I may be called back to site, yeah, actual work next week, which on one hand will cut the bush fitment plans really tight but on the other, will allow for gathering cash to give to Michelin.
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