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Right, I am "working from home" today so I decided to spend a couple of hours and see if I could install the front strut. The top bolts were my worry as I knew they were steel into alu, but they came off OK as did the bottom strut bolt which put up more of a fight. Next, the top ball joints had to come apart again and disconnect the air line. SUCCESS! Old and busted vs new hotness. The quality seems really good for an eBay special, I wasn't sure what to expect buying the cheapest I could find but it is really decent and branded 'Maxpeedingrods' which seems to be a US supplier of tuning parts. Swap over the cap with control arms etc. The new one came with a fresh rubber o-ring and new air fitting, you just clean up the cap, align the air inlet with the outer point of the triangle and on it goes. And here it is all back in place. Looks like the car has recently had new disks and pads on the front too which is nice. And that is that. So far I've checked it all goes up and down OK and gone for a short spin but I think we are good, no sign of droppage yet. Here is the old bag, looking a bit perished, I'm not surprised it was leaking. All in all, including the pinch bolt on Saturday I think this has taken me about 4-5 hours to do just this side but the first 3 hours was all removing the pinch bolt, it was plain sailing after that. I didn't think so at the time but I was actually pretty lucky with the pinch bolt removal. There are loads of horror stories and videos of them being super difficult and basically a mechanics nightmare. I still have the other side to do; if it isn't leaking now it will be soon if it is the same condition as this one. I think I'm going to hit the pinch bolt with penetrant every day for a few days and work it a bit in the hope it loosens up then I could probably do the whole lot in 2 hours if I don't break anything else. Now hopefully I can drive it for a bit before anything else goes wrong

Heh, don't knock the pastry torch, it made all the difference.😉 Some more action from this morning. I couldn't face the front shock again today and I didn't have much time so it was valve block replacement. Although I know the front strut is leaking now, there has been some very odd behaviour with odd noises from the pump, the car refusing to raise but then being fine next time and my now lack of trust of the system. I've rebuilt the pump so along with the shock this is next. Firstly get the car up on stands and well supported as the air system will be emptied and the car will completely drop otherwise. The valve block is under the boot next to the pump and I think surprisingly, unprotected. Honestly it is so rusty under here I think it must have been used for beach races or something. Pretty easy to remove, just the 2 bolts in the middle, 10mm spanner for the fittings and then it lifts out. Here it is next to the replacement. They are completely sealed units filled with resin so I can't see how it works or easily test it, but it comes with new fittings. Back in with new fittings on the pipes. I'm a little worried about the brown pipe. it is the feed from the pump and there is plenty of slack on the others but that one is tighter and gets a lot of jiggling from the pump when it runs. I'll test it with soapy water when I get time but I've put new pipe on the list, I can't imagine it is very expensive. Slammed Yo. No pictures of it up and running but so far it seems to work well and happily goes up and down. it stayed up all day on level 3 but at level 2 it dropped in a couple of hours. Once the front shocks are replaced we should be in business.

OK, so time for a quick update on the fun bus. It turns out to absolutely noones surprise that it has a leaking front air shock which is probably the root cause, and the valve block which controls the whole thing is definitely acting up as sometimes it won't lift the car at all and other times it is fine, then the fun one is when the pump gets really noisy and then shudders to a stop with a hiss which can apparently happen when the valve block is not letting the air from the pump through to the accumulator. Off I went to eBay and spent £200+ on 2 new chinesium air shocks, a valve block, and new bolts for the suspension. I have no doubt that the shocks are worse quality than OEM but they have a 2 year guarantee and the whole bottom of the car might have rusted off by then so worth a go. today was the day so I tried to attack the leaking strut first after watching a few videos that made it look like a walk in the park. With the wheel off I soaked all the bolts down with WD40 special penetrant and immediately fucked it by managing to snap the head off the top pinch bolt. Bugger. I tried various attempts to get it moving including locking nuts together to try and turn it and drifting it through with a BFO hammer but no dice. Off to youtube again and apparently I had overlooked that this was 99% certain to happen as this is a notoriously corroded bolt, common to loads of VAG models and they are almost always stuck. Some part of me had figured out that i would definitely break something as I'd got replacement bolts so not the end of the world, I just had to get it out. Two methods came up, heat, and using spacers to draw it through using the end nut. I didn't have a blow torch but my Special Lady Friend has a pastry torch, pretty much the same right? The spacer method (I used an oversize nut) work a treat once it was hot. SUCCESS! By this point I'd spent several hours and familial duties were calling. I wonder how many things I can break tomorrow?

Bit of an update, the suspension pump rebuild kit turned up so I had a go at fitting it. Where we're going we don't need a jack (there are a couple of axle stands under it too before anyone asks) The MOT person wasn't joking about a rusty subframe, it is like the Bismarck under here, changing these bushes is going to be fun* if i ever want to. Here is the valve block looking a bit exposed and worse for wear. Not sure why it doesn't get a cover but there you go, should be easy to change. The pump lives under this cover. Someone has been here before as it is a bit butchered and the fittings are rounded off. A bit of minor abuse and here is the pump. From the cable ties and look of the pump I suspect it has been replaced at some point but not for a while. Just 3 10mm bolts and a few connectors and it is off. On the bench/kitchen table Here it is all opened up. The repair kit includes a new piston ring, gasket, new bolts and a tap to chase the threads. It comes apart easily and I gave it a good old clean. And here with the new piston ring fitted. By this point it was dark so no more pictures but installation is the reverse of removal etc. Took me about 2.5 hours but would have been much faster with a lift and some actual skills. Once fitted it did make a difference, the pump was able to lift the car much faster and it doesn't run as often, presumably as it can fill the tank to a higher pressure. I was hoping that it would make the system run at a higher pressure thus somehow fixing the intermittent overnight drop but the next morning it was business as usual and dropping at the front. Total cost was £25 for the kit and it was an easy job so I'm glad it got done. Next up, soapy water on the front bags and valve block and go from there. I'm still very happy with the car, it drives nicely and the suspension rides well and doesn't drop every time, only every other night or so. also it might be my imagination but the engine seems happier for being driven and feels smoother and more responsive. I've put a bottle of snake oil/diesel system cleaner in the last tankful too and I'm seeing a solid 35mpg from the computer and should hit 500 miles from the latest tank full of fuel too which is not bad for a big old barge.

Thanks Bud that would be amazing, absolutely no rush, just be careful not to remind your Dad it is still there 🤣

Quick question, does anyone have an inner trim panel for an A6 C5 tailgate going spare that they could sell me? It is this bit and the clips are all broken on mine. I think it is the whole door inner panel basically that needs to be replaced. I've looked on eBay etc. but as far as I can tell the only ones have a tailgate attached. I could put some actual effort in and start contacting breakers but seeing as you are here...:)

In other news I had a spare 1/2 hour this evening so I cleaned up one of the headlights that was yellowing quite badly. Before During After It's come up pretty well. I just used a basic T-cut kit by hand, no drill attachments or anything. It is still a tiny bit cloudy but the yellowing has pretty much gone which is the main thing.

Yes, sounds like basically the same idea, though I imagine that the technology has advanced quite a bit in the intervening 20 years. Your's is a handsome beast, it looks very at home bimbling around on unpaved roads. Are you still planning on selling it?

Yes, as per @Dave_Q its got plain ol' 1-4. 1 - Slightly too low and a bit bumpy really, definitely sport mode. 2 - Normale 3 - Fairly high, perfect for a farm track, speed bumps outside waitrose or getting out of the Glastonbury car park 4 - BOING lets off road! it won't stay in 4 over about 30 mph and drops to 3 until 60mph when it drops to 2. The OG version went up and down automatically based on speed but the later ones like this only go down to 2 and you have to tell it to go back up again. It basically stays in 2. Yes sounds right, definitely not a young persons vehicle, more for a thrusting middle aged dad type like myself. Yes, I'm starting to understand why it got this reputation. Hopefully I'll get time to diagnose it properly this weekend as it is definitely not happy about something.

yes, totally agree I unsurprisingly think that they have aged very well with quite classic good looks. Fingers crossed that nothing really expensive goes pop but stuff I've priced up doesn't seem mega expensive compared to anything else. Rather than do anything off the snag list, I took it to the car wash and then took the dog out so here are some pictures. Rufus approves of the extra space. The only casualty today was the Aldi badge off the back which fell off in the car wash so now I need to decide if I stick it back on or de-badge it completely.

Love it, that is pleasingly old school too, thanks!

Oh, quick question - the car is covered in plastic cladding and it is getting quite faded in places. Does anyone have any recommended products that will freshen them up a bit? Cheers.

A quick minor update, the trip to Cambridge was pleasantly uneventful and partner, 2 kids, dog and luggage were hauled comfortably and without complaint. There and back to East Sussex The suspension did drop overnight when we arrived but then after a couple of local trips it stayed up. Same again yesterday, a bit of sagging but after moving the car and bringing it up to level it stayed up overnight. Non-scientific but it seems to drop when parked after long journeys but be fine after short ones so I'm still suspecting a valve rather than a strut leak but we will see. I didn't have the time or arsedness to get the soapy water out yesterday so that will have to wait but I did order a pump rebuild kit from a chap called Bagpiping Andy (https://www.bagpipingandy.com) so that will get rebuilt at some point once I've fixed the problem. On the minor jobs repair list I'm going to polish up one of the headlights as it is quite yellowed (the drivers side is fine, I suspect it has been replaced at some point) and replace the drivers side door lock microswitch thing so it recognises when the door has been opened and doesn't keep trying to lock itself. All in all I'm very pleased.

Looking handsome today. Also I replaced the broken filter cap retainer. It is the little things. I'm driving it to Cambridge later (240 mile round trip) so hopefully it behaves itself.

Here is some light reading for anyone interested in 20 year old pneumatic Audi suspension. http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_243.pdf http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_241.pdf I mean, who doesn't love a cutaway!

Well, daily update time. It stayed up overnight and has done ever since. As far as I can tell it only happens when parked in level 1 (the lowest) or when I turn it off too soon after changing heights before giving it a chance to settle itself. The pump is not running very much and it mainly adjusts itself from pressure left in the accumulator when I turn it on. Also it is kind of intermittent for now. This along with the codes makes me think it is likely not a leak from one of the struts and more likely a problem with the valve block, or possibly the controller. I'm expecting the valve block but they are around £170 for a replacement so I'm going to check wires etc before throwing parts at it. I can also apparently check the height sensor readings with VCDS so this may also be worth checking. Yes, I did consider this but to be fair to him it didn't start happening until a week after he dropped it off and I did expect to deal with the system at some point. I've basically taken a car that has only done a few thousand miles per year for most of its life and done 700 miles in a week in it, I'm just happy this is all that has gone wrong. Hi @richdcoll welcome along, this is a great forum, there is a real wealth of knowledge and cool and unusual cars, I was lured here 5 years ago by a thread about a base sierra and I've hung around since. Remember to go and say hi in the new members thread 😀 Also sorry to hear about your diesel pump woes, I hope you can get it sorted, can the coding be done with VCDS do you know?

Ruh roh. Looks like we got a sinker, the curse strikes. Yeah, you'd think wouldn't you, pity they didn't service the air suspension 🤣 It's done it to me twice today, both times front right, but it is staying up right now on level 2 and the pump isn't running full time or even very much. VCDS says: This is new as I scanned it when it arrived with no faults found. Internet research says G291 is apparently a sensor internal to the valve block and the Ross Tech wiki suggests it may be a wiring issue between the sensor and the control module which can cause these symptoms but then so can all kinds of things including worn out pump and various leaks. I think I'll check wiring first and then it is soapy water time, should be a fun weekend project.

Thanks @dan95x I know what you mean, it is definitely a 'solid' drive, it is not going to set many hearts racing but it feels planted and grippy unsurprisingly. That is really kind kind offer for the bits, there likely are a couple of things that I could do with, I'll come back to you soon cheers!

@Dave_Q I agree, I did some "research" when I was looking to buy it (being careful to avoid anything off-putting obvs) and found a couple of videos of the air shocks being replaced and it doesn't look hard if you have a lift. Probably a bit more involved with the addition of 20 years of corrosion but still not rocket science. Anyway that lies no doubt in the future but for now it is still wafting around nicely. Did the first proper test of 220 miles yesterday, 50% motorway the rest A road and local, without issue and got nearly 35 mpg's indicated. That is certainly better than I feared assuming it is remotely accurate.

Thanks, the colour was a big part of the decision. I was a bit dubious about the service history but it does seem legit and the book has run out of space for stamps now. Apparently the owner got a free MOT from Audi each year which must have saved* some money 🤣

Thanks, I'd not heard about the diesel pump being an issue, I'll investigate further as that sounds like fun if that goes south. No low range gearbox on this, I've only ever seen one in the wild with the low range, a twin turbo, but not on this. I'll not be doing any proper off road unless something goes very wrong. Thanks, I hope I've found the One Good One, we will see if the VAG gods smile on me. I'm putting 250 miles on it later today which reminds me, I'd better tell Green Flag I've bought it. Funnily enough, fucking plum is what my GF called me when I showed her what I was buying. Yep, the suspension is definitely a concern, I'm surprised it has lasted as long as it has but I've not had a chance to poke around yet and see if they are original. If it does go south in a literal sense it will likely be eBay specials for me but so far so good and it definitely wafts over the potholes much better than my last car. Yes, black interior though it looks grey in the pictures. It would have been nice to have a more interesting colour, I've seen quite a few in green leather which I actually quite like but beggars can't be choosers.

Thanks @Popsicle, I know what you mean, it has taken 20 years of depreciation for me to afford one 🤣. It's not super refined compared to a decent modern but it is a nice place to be and the build quality shows through.

LOL, I wish, thanks, now edited.

So I’ve just done a buy and thought it might be of interest to some of you. No dramatic collection fred as the friendly driveway dealer seller agreed to deliver from Derby down to Sussex but here are some pictures. I’ve seen very few of this generation of A6 on AS, probably as they are to most eyes boring as hell and just fairly mundane tutonic motoring but I’ve always loved this age Audi, and I’ve wanted one of these for a few years to scratch the same itch that my outback did. This one is an 03 Allroad in 2.5 v6 TDi and Spanish gearbox. An unusual interior that I’ve not seen before in one of these, presumably a special order of some kind, and a few mod cons which mostly work. It has lots of good bits, air suspensions goes up and down with no issues, nearly new Pirellis on every corner, and the engine feels tight with just over 100k miles in its 20 years. It is trying hard to be an actual colour, a fetching sort of burgundy red which looks brown or even black depending on the angles, and it has only had one previous owner from new who, unbelievably, took it to Audi for every single service and MOT, so a whopping 19 stamps in the book including 2 cambelt changes. Naturally I won’t be continuing this run of ludicrous expense and will try and do stuff myself or send it to my friendly local mechanic. There are a few things on my snag list already, the drivers door actuator doesn’t sense if the door is open, (TADTS) meaning the car regularly tries to lock with the keys inside, the gearstick mechanism is very dry and rattly, there are various bits of trim that want replacing or fixing, the paint is scratched and quite dull in places – the car shows signs of not being regularly cleaned and possibly parked under a tree for much of its life when you look closely- and various soft touch plastics have gone all sticky and gross and want sorting. Also the steering wheel is absolutely minging with some kind of thick black sticky residue all over it. It does clean off but is so thick and gross I’ve just ordered a replacement second hand wheel for £25. I'll try and keep this thread updated when I do stuff as I will be dailying this for all commuting, kid and dog hauling duties. When it was new I hear the Allroad was the one of the most unreliable cars in North America so there should be lots of fun bits to do.

Nice old derv bus, with MOT until October, that just failed to sell at £500. Does sound a bit fucked from the ad but I once fixed a diesel leak in one of these with mole grips and a leatherman at the side of a Swedish road so how bad can it be?