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txe4

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About txe4

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  1. At the moment it's all fairly expensive, but the battery pack is the really expensive part. When you get in a £20k Zoe you're really sat in a £5k shitbox atop a £15k battery. There's been a market for hybrid battery refurb for a few years, there are a lot of Prius on the roads and they do sometime suffer battery problems. Generally when EV packs fail there's a bad cell or two and swapping it out will sort you - but it's still a niche job and most mechanics are obviously terrified of it. The handling is already sufficiently entertaining, thanks. In fact I put it up the arse of some bird's disAstra last month - someone pulled out in front of her and she could stop a bit quicker than me. Luckily both her car and mine are complete sheds so she wasn't bothered. Had to gently* adjust some plastic trim back in to place but all's well.
  2. It does have regen, and given that it's RWD and so all from braking the rear wheels, it's surprisingly powerful. It's adjustable in 2 ways: The first little bit of brake pedal travel increases regen - so gently resting a foot on the brake gives slightly more regen (and also, usefully, puts the brake lights on...) Also, on genuine Mitsubishi-branded imievs, the gear selector has an additional position after "D": "B", in which there is extra lift-off regen. On the Peugeot iOn and Citroen C-Zero branded cars, this isn't present - although AFAIK the functionality is there, and if you replace the gear selector plastic surround with the Mitsubishi part (or drill it out...) then you can add "B" mode. This is a very interesting and thoughtful question. The TL;DR is that you mostly lose capacity but you do lose some efficiency. The longer version is: that internal resistance of the battery increases as it ages. If you remember being tortured with equations in school physics lessons: the power lost (to heating) within the battery is equal to current squared, times resistance. This means that as the battery ages, it becomes less efficient under both charge and discharge, but this inefficiency is much worse *at higher currents*. Therefore - there's not too much effect if you're bimbling around gently and charging at home on AC, but if you're hooning and rapid charging then there's a significant effect. If you want to drive fast, everything is against you - you're losing to electrical inefficiency proportional to the square of current, and to air resistance proportional the square of speed. In some EVs you can see a restriction on available power as the battery ages - all owners of older Teslas are now intimately familiar with this issue, and LEAF owners see the top of the power meter "bubbles" disappear on cold mornings if they have tired batteries. As per the above - driving fast is inefficient due to the physics of both air resistance and the battery. But, the longer the car is switched on for, the longer you spend running the various auxiliaries - lights, coolant pumps, ECUs, brake pump, etc etc. In the case of the heater, which is ludicrously inefficient, this is really critical in the imiev - the heater will flatten the battery quickly and you have to think carefully about it if you're in a long traffic jam. A plug-in heated seat is about 30W (vs 6000W for the heater) - but it won't clear condensation from the windscreen. You can use just the aircon, no heat, on "recirculate" - but after a while, in cold weather, it will freeze up and stop drying the air. Also the passengers will protest quite vigorously about this arrangement if the weather is at all inclement. I live on a hill in Yorkshire, with obvious consequences for both clemency of weather and ferocity of passenger protest. Heating & aircon aside, the other stuff isn't too bad, the most efficient speed will be in the 10-20mph range generally for EVs. 40mph isn't MASSIVELY worse than 20mph, but 60mph is MUCH worse than 40mph, and 80mph is terrible. You can save a lot of power by looking a long way ahead and anticipating. Regen is all well and good, but the most efficient thing is never to have accelerated in the first place.
  3. I've got caniOn. I haven't got weak cells - they're all approximately equally fucked.
  4. Septics. Nice people, weird ideas about electricity.
  5. Interesting idea. Re connector - I think it probably is the same. It's type 1 - aka SAE J1772 - for AC on the EU ones, and (unlike type 2 which most EVs use here) that's standard in Japan and the US as well. The DC is chademo which is standard everywhere. So probably a Japanese one would Just Work. Bit of a nightmare if stuff went wrong, but generally stuff doesn't go wrong with these. Only small wrinkle I can think of is that the very oldest ones used non-standard signalling between the EVSE (charger) and the car. So most of them - including mine - are standards compliant and work like any other EV, but I have seen the very oldest ones using a plain cable direct from mains to car with no EVSE/granny-cable/brick in the middle, and presumably none of the safety/signalling/control features. I don't know how you'd get on with charging one of those early ones, or indeed whether they can charge at all from a standard type 2 home or public EVSE (chargepoint) - so you might want to be careful and either get a later one, or research when the cutoff point between old and new charging arrangement is. It's also possible that there were cars produced without the chademo port. Find an imiev forum and ask this stuff.
  6. They're not rapid at all from 0-5. They pickup OK after that and feel fairly torque-y. It takes time for power to build - when you boot it, you can see the power meter (which is a simple ammeter) take a second or two to reach max beans. There's enough torque/power available, it's just limited in how it will dish it out, especially at low speeds, in order (I assume) to both make the handling (remember - RWD, little tyres) "friendly" and the mechanicals durable. Even when I had the Tesla as well, I never found the speed/power limits frustrating. In many circumstances the miev is the fastest 4-wheeled transportation available, because it will turn in the road almost anywhere, park almost anywhere, and fit through gaps which nothing else will go through.
  7. Update. Still got it. It still works. It's passed two MOTs with no hassle. The battery is deteriorating, slowly but steadily, down to 52 miles estimated range on a full charge - which drops to 30 if the heater is turned on. The a/c compressor hasn't died...yet...and it will still rapid charge, but it's now very slow - falling to about 6kW at 50% - so not really viable. It gets load of use, several trips a day, out, back, onto charge, rinse & repeat. Still does everything we need as a runabout. My inclination is to sell it - as it's still worth a tidy amount, and the changing EU emissions regs in 2020 will see a flood of cheap new EVs and PHEVs - but wife is absolutely determined that it's the best car she's ever had and we're keeping it.
  8. Got to confess I am absolutely fascinated by both the infrequently-visited areas of both MSAs (comes of having to wait around at them for 45 minutes while EVs charge) and motorways in general (love Scammonden water, the tunnels under the M62 there, unofficial ways on and off motorways). There is all sorts of odd, abandoned, forgotten stuff at MSAs, where no-one ever walks, just yards from where thousands of people walk every day. Not much can equal the Pennine Tower, of course. Any MSA with a walkable bridge between sides is absolutely epic - and if it has a skanky and decaying Buggery King branch on the bridge, even better. Fascinated by how Ferrybridge (triple EH rapid charger site, dreadful toilets) and several of the A1 services, have become run-down since the roads were diverted away from them. Can't wait to see what Skelton Lake MSA will be like. Very, very sad, I know.
  9. How bizarre. What an absolutely nonsense set of reasoning. You're better off without them really as they've cost-cut everything own-brand until it tastes like dogshit. I always drive barefoot if it's any distance, and in warm weather often go barefoot at stops. Never had any trouble at shops - did get thrown out of an ex-employer's site once, for 5 minutes, but that's it.
  10. Thanks all. Glad others are having the same "part worns are shite now-a-days" experience. As for the Germany thing - I scrapped two Pirelli this winter, both partworns from Germany, both with egg-shaped bulges in the sidewall as soon as pressure was applied. Even with the bad 'uns, partworns were still cheaper than new, but the hassle isn't worth it anymore IME.
  11. For years I ran cars on partworns from a filthy backstreet place, or occasionally the cheapest nastiest new ditchfinder going - but mostly partworns. Mismatched, awful brands, etc - but always legal and manufacturer spec in terms of size/rating. Recently, though, about half the partworns we've had have had obvious, illegal/dangerous problems, or been punctured. Is it pointless now? Was it always pointless and we were just lucky? Give the lecture about being a danger to myself and others if you want, it's fine.
  12. It's looking good for tomorrow. Just got to choose a car really.
  13. Are Roomsters shite yet? It looks like probably not, the cheapest ones on autotrader being £1300? If the rubbish isn't too filthy you could probably do OK buying a scabby Roomster, using it, then selling on - but that's probably not really what the OP intended. The Roomster feels a lot more solid than the old Berlingo did but for some reason I've never really bonded with it, it's just a tool. Silly attitude as the Roomster has been faultless and bits were always falling off the Berlingo...
  14. +1 for Berlingo Multispace / Partner Tepee. You can get a fucked-but-still-running multispace for buttons, especially if pez, and it "looks" like a car (windows all round) so doesn't trigger the tip nazis. With the seats folded back (or removed entirely) it holds as much shit as the van version. Taller than an estate so much easier to load. Still miss mine.
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