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lexi

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  1. Agree
    lexi got a reaction from R Lutz in You thought the Monza was rusty, enter mums Discovery   
    Great old trucks when rebuilt. Done a few resto's with Series, but I think Disco makes more sense. You can actually get them comfortable and waterproof and will still go anywhere.
  2. Like
    lexi got a reaction from UltraWomble in Wtf is going on with car insurance prices?   
    I have found Direct Line to be good for first year, then whoosh!   I change every year now as it is the way it is going. Your cheapest Ins is about late 50's in age........it doesn't last long lol!
  3. Like
    lexi reacted to andyberg in The Bikeshite Thread   
    Rumour has it that Kawasaki and Yamaha are closing many of their plants due to declining bike sales. 🏍🛵 Apparently, the Baby-Boomers all have motorcycles, and Generation X is only buying a very few, and the next generation, the Millennials, aren’t buying any at all.🕵
    A recent study was conducted to find out why.
    Here are the reasons why Millennials don't ride motorcycles and why sales are down:
    1. Pants won't pull up far enough for them to straddle the seat.
    2. Can't get their phone to their ear with a helmet on.
    3. Can't use 2 hands to eat while driving.
    4. They don't get a trophy and a recognition plaque just for buying one.
    5. Don't have enough muscle to hold the bike up when stopped.
    6 Might have a bug hit them in the face and then they would need emergency care.
    7. Motorcycles don't have air conditioning.
    8. They can't afford one because they spent 12 years in college trying to get a degree in Humanities, Social Studies or Gender Studies for which no jobs are available.
    9. They are allergic to fresh air.
    10. Their pajamas get caught on the exhaust pipes.
    11. They might get their hands dirty checking the oil.
    12. The handle bars have buttons and levers and cannot be controlled by touch-screen.
    13. You have to shift manually and use something called a clutch.
    14. It's too hard to take selfies while riding.
    15. They don't come with training wheels like their bicycles did.
    16. Motorcycles don't have power steering or power brakes.
    17. Their nose ring interferes with the visor.
    18. They would have to use leg muscle to back up.
    19. When they stop, a light breeze might blow exhaust in their face.
    20 It could rain on them and expose them to non-soft water.
    21. It might scare their therapy dog, and then the dog would need therapy.
    22. Their man bun wont fit under a helmet.😁
  4. Like
    lexi got a reaction from High Jetter in The oldest Land-Rover Series 3 around - new boots arrived   
    More sensible?  You don't get that with Landy's though do you?😃
  5. Like
    lexi reacted to mat_the_cat in The oldest Land-Rover Series 3 around - new boots arrived   
    No, it was already tinted light green. Unless you're meaning a dark tint, in which case not required - I'm trying to make the most of the sunshine we get in Wales!
    Anyway, both sides are now done, and I'm sure it won't be long before I find out whether they're watertight.

  6. Like
    lexi got a reaction from Lacquer Peel in The oldest Land-Rover Series 3 around - new boots arrived   
    Can't beat a front hitch. Had them on the Landy's , a Nissan Patrol and even on my old Xantia and C5 Citroens.
  7. Like
    lexi got a reaction from Crackers in Rozzer Shite   
    These did motorway work, well more the PI version.

  8. Like
    lexi got a reaction from eddyramrod in Rozzer Shite   
    These did motorway work, well more the PI version.

  9. Like
    lexi got a reaction from Datsuncog in Rozzer Shite   
    These did motorway work, well more the PI version.

  10. Like
    lexi got a reaction from MiniMinorMk3 in Rozzer Shite   
    These did motorway work, well more the PI version.

  11. Thanks
    lexi got a reaction from mat_the_cat in The oldest Land-Rover Series 3 around - new boots arrived   
    Yes, I remember the double S sound was "different". 
    Good work in this freezing weather.
  12. Like
    lexi reacted to mat_the_cat in The oldest Land-Rover Series 3 around - new boots arrived   
    Last night I finished the job, including the fitment of the heat shield. I'm not sure how effective it'll be, but we'll see...

    Time to fire it up, and check for leaks.
    Oh. Aside from the engine sounding rather clattery on video, the new exhaust does sound different, in real life too. Gone is that A Series-esque fruity rasp, to be replaced by a deeper tone. I'm not immediately taken with it, but will wait to see what it's like whilst driving, if I can hear it at all over the wind noise. There does seem to be a bit of resonance at idle, which disappears when you raise the revs.
     
  13. Like
    lexi reacted to Bfg in Triumph - That was a year that was..   
    Having yesterday made the first backing plate, for behind the lower wishbone's chassis mount, today I made the other for this side. . .

    ^ the wishbones are reversed in this photo, ie the front one is to the left and the rear on the right.  The 2nd backing plate I made (again from recycled steel) is much the same for either, and both are 4mm thick ..to replace the skimpy washer(s).  The front-bottom wishbone bush has been dismantled, cleaned out, lubricated and reassembled onto the replacement double-stud bracket.  These bushes have a spacer tube inside them and so I've torqued the nut to 30 ft.lb. The joint now pivots freely and smoothly but it is not slack.   The rear (black) single stud bracket is bent and twisted ..just because it can be I guess. , and it's very tight to move. 
    I pulled that apart and its poly bush is excessively worn, both the spacer tube is a loose fit on the through-bolt, and the polybush is a loose fit on the spacer. . . 
     
    ^ I've decided to bodge it (..until I get replacement polybush) and have used a wrap of coke tin around the through bolt and a double wrap of coke tin around the spacer tub.  Suitably lubricated and reassembled onto the double-stud bracket, the slack is gone.  But it's another re-do-it task on my perpetual job list.
    Moving on, encouraged by the postman delivering the replacement bottom fulcrum pin & bush kits   . . .

    ^ TR-GB part number SS7 for the TR4a-6. I was pleasantly surprised to see the weather caps with o-rings included ..which weren't in the photograph on their website ..and which I forgot to order.  So for under £42 (for both sides) including delivery it seems good value.  As other companies are charging double this figure I guess theirs are stainless steel &/or a brand-name polybushes.  These metal bits, including the spacer tubes are bright-nickle-plated, but with Copaslip on the through bolt, lubricant on the bushes, and waterproof grease smeared over their outsides - they ought to last the week out ..after all it is Friday today. 
    Reassembly time . . .
      
    ^ I lubricated the inside of the weather cap and fitted the o-ring is fitted into it, and then the polybush goes through it as illustrated. The polybush, with captive weather-cap is then an interference push fit into the end of the wishbone arm.  It goes in but needs a bit of pushing. I did this by placing one of the large plain washers, supplied in the kit, on the edge of the work bench with the bush face-up on that (so as not to buckle the flange of the cap) and then pushed the arm down onto it.

    ^ repeat with weather cap, o-ring and polybush on the other side of the arm, and then insert the through-bolt with spacer tub and end washer.  You may note that the spacer tub is not all bright and shiny and new. That's because the new one didn't fit on the bolt, so I'm re-using the old ones.  The new through-bolt is a tad larger in diameter than the old one ..which might be attributed to its nickle plating ?  However, the new bolt is tight fit into the bottom trunnion, whereas the old bolt (with no plating) was a little loose. Thankfully the old bottom fulcrum pin came apart with its spacers undamaged. 

    ^ ensuring I got the arms the right way around, and the right way up.. I assembled them onto the upright's bottom trunnion.   Note ; the large plain washers (supplied) are in each weather-shield cap. These I lubricated with turbo-gel against the polybush and with waterproof grease on their outside faces. The through bolt, and the inside of each spacer tube is of course liberally coated with Copaslip.    
     
    ^ I tightened the nut until the arms were able to pivot on their bushes freely and smoothly, but neither too slack nor too tight. There is no slop in this assembly nor any binding. Turning the through-bolt, so the flat of its head was flat to the disk, did adjusted things so I adjusted things several times over until I was happy with the tension. I also fitted an extra washer under the nut ..to get the split pin through the castellation, without compromising that tension.   The split pin was too long so I cut it to size before locking everything up - Job Done.
      
    ^ before refitting the front suspension assembly - I wanted to clean the threads of those top fulcrum bolt holes. The suspension in the meantime was playing dead on the workmate 
    To be honest, by this time I had had enough.  It was quarter past three and on this dull day - getting dark already.   After a week of it ..on just one side of the car - I'm tired of being filthy dirty, slimy with grease, crawling under the car, laying down on cold paving slabs, and in general doing (..or part doing) a whole list of jobs that I feel ought to have been right on a car that came back from a professional chassis swap.   Gripe over - I'm just a little too tired for this sh.... 
    One last effort . . .

    ^ a task that I'm sure would be easier with two persons ..preferably anyone but me !   Literally kicking the trolley-jack to maneuver the suspension into place, I first loosely fitted one of the top fulcrum bolts.  At this conjuncture the bottom wishbone is just hanging down.  
    Dropping the track rod end back into place helped as an arm to lever the hub around, to swing and shove the bottom wishbone brackets into the chassis mounts.

    ^ with a huff and a puff  - progress   ..the bottom wishbone brackets sitting flat against their chassis mounts.  
      
    OK.. that'll do for tonight. These brackets are now double-stud type, with sensible (..IMO ) backing plates and new nyloc nuts.  And the bottom outer fulcrum is no longer seized. 
    The suspension now swings up n' down easily and silently.  I wonder if, without all those joint being seized or overly tight, I'll now need new dampers ?
    Bidding you a good evening, and a great weekend.
    Pete
     
     
  14. Like
    lexi reacted to rainagain in Saab 9-5, F**king potholes   
    I got the struts both out tonight. However the side with the snapped spring has taken out it’s bump stop. 

     
    I can find replacements on eBay but the delivery time is the 16th of January as is Amazon. Eurocarparts don’t have anything listed, but I’ll drop them a line tomorrow and see what they have. 
  15. Like
    lexi reacted to Wgl2019 in Saab 9-5, F**king potholes   
    Whilst you are in there I would suggest taking the arch liner out and giving it all a wire brush/ oily treatment of choice.......
  16. Like
    lexi reacted to UltraWomble in The Bikeshite Thread   
    Chinese have that 125 market sewn up now unless you want to pay almost the same as a bigger capacity bike.
    In fairness most Chinese stuff now is at a similar level to 70's Jap bikes - keep on top of the oily bits, keep them clean and use basic rust protection and for the most part they should be OK.
    Consumable bits are still notoriously shit from new, but not expensive to replace with decent items when the time comes.
    You only have to look at the used Yamaha YBR market to see how even (Chinese made) Jap small bikes can fester and dissolve when not maintained.
    I keep thinking of pulling the trigger on something - Blurock/Bullit or Sinnis scrambler style bikes keep winking at me for £40/month for 3 years.
  17. Like
    lexi got a reaction from Cavcraft in The Bikeshite Thread   
    I wouldn't mind an old Yam or Honda 125cc trail bike.  It is just to use for going up some rough ground to get to hill lochs in Argyll.  I thought they would be easy to pick up....ha ha it seems they are classic price tag now.
  18. Like
    lexi reacted to mat_the_cat in The oldest Land-Rover Series 3 around - new boots arrived   
    You are correct, and I've actually used the 3rd/4th gear synchro assembly for a P4 in this, as all information I could find suggested it was the same part, just with a part number change. 
    That was exactly my logic with reassembly, and it worked reasonably well. Both sections I could easily move by hand into position.
    Once the transfer box was attached to the main gearbox I could refit the intermediate gear:

    Which rotates on this shaft which is tappen into place.

    The bottom of the transfer box was screwed on, and the output flange attached before I could fill with oil. Moment of truth time!
     
  19. Like
    lexi reacted to mat_the_cat in The oldest Land-Rover Series 3 around - new boots arrived   
    You can see from the photo above that access to the oil filter is easier without the flywheel cover in place, so that was the next job. It was due a service anyway, and at least I know the sump is spotless!

    I'd already cleaned the flywheel cover, and re-loctited in the studs which had wound out.  So I could put off the moment of truth no longer...
    Filled it up with warm oil (to hopefully prime more easily) and fired it up. After running it up to temperature I left it for a couple of hours, and checked for any leakage.

    Result! Well, at least there's no major leaks, so I can get on with refitting the clutch and gearbox.
  20. Like
    lexi reacted to mat_the_cat in The oldest Land-Rover Series 3 around - new boots arrived   
    Crank seal - that is officially a nightmare job! The recommended way of doing it is to fit the top seal retainer to the engine with crank out, fit the seal to the crank, then lower the crankshaft into the engine. Googling it seemed to give the consensus that it was a fiddly enough job with the engine out, let alone laying on your back doing it from below. And one chap who replaced it twice  and it still leaked. He didn't post back up with a happy ending, which didn't fill me full of confidence! 
    So, what does the job entail? First of all the slightly awkward job of looping the spring around the crank, and joining the ends without stretching the spring too much.

    OK, that wasn't too bad. Next, open up the seal and fit over the crank, making sure the split is at the top (more on that later).

    Then, tease the spring into the groove of the seal, keeping the join at 90 degrees to the split in the seal. Again, fiddly but doable.
    The worst part is fitting the seal retainers (which give the seal its shape) and keeping the seal square to the crank. The difficulty is attaching the top retainer to the block, as to insert the fixing screws you need to rotate the crank. And if you rotate the crank, the upper bearing shell can spin. I settled for loosely locating the upper retainer on its dowels, and bringing up the lower retainer to meet it, attached to the  bearing cap.
    But first I needed to fit the T seals to the cap.

    Then make up some plastic guide pieces, to stop the cork seals being damaged sliding into the block recess.

    These have a slight taper to compress the seals as the cap moves upwards.

    Part way in, and I can fit the lower retainer. Gradually tapping the bearing cap upwards, checking with a mirror that I haven't trapped the crank seal.

    Eventually the cap was in place, and I could fit the seal retainer screws. I rotated the crank so that the cut-out was in line with the screw holes - and the seal promptly span inside the retainer
    All apart again, and repeat. This time keeping the seal retainers tight to the block, and once the bearing cap was in place, I tightened up the lower retainer and secured the seal before rotating the crank.

    The sump is now on, and I still have a bit of reassembly to do before I can start the engine and find out whether I've been successful. If it leaks I think I will cry!
  21. Like
    lexi reacted to mat_the_cat in The oldest Land-Rover Series 3 around - new boots arrived   
    This week has been crazily busy, but yesterday I got an hour or so to work on the gearbox. By selecting 1st and reverse at the same time, I could lock the shafts and tighten the layshaft bolt (also loctited in). Also bent over the tabs securing the layshaft bearing carrier.

    Then I could install the cover plate. I'm not usually a fan of gasket sealants - I generally prefer a light smear of grease on the gasket - but in this case given the hassle a leak would cause, used a sealant instead. It came in a handy 'pen' applicator, so easy to only apply a thin layer.

    In place inside the bellhousing...

    ...and one more job ticked off.

    The forecast is set to get warmer, which is good news as I was worried about manipulating a split seal over the crankshaft when cold. Don't want to risk straining it and causing damage.
  22. Like
    lexi reacted to mat_the_cat in The oldest Land-Rover Series 3 around - new boots arrived   
    I'm not saying it's cold or anything, but...


     
  23. Like
    lexi got a reaction from mat_the_cat in The oldest Land-Rover Series 3 around - new boots arrived   
    I did those gearboxes a long time ago.  It is only when looking at your parts, it comes back to me.
    Even back then, the Original Parts were hard to come by, and spendy. I had the overdrives as well.  Enjoy your truck, they are  great fun!
  24. Like
    lexi got a reaction from Justwatching in Daily DeLorean project (now with Jeep Wrangler "spared no expense")   
    Thread is excellent.  Would think Jotun Epoxy brush on would be best for chassis touch ups. ie sealing the metal and bonding to existing epoxy coating. I have been underwhelmed with auto box specialists up here as well.
  25. Like
    lexi reacted to mat_the_cat in The oldest Land-Rover Series 3 around - new boots arrived   
    The first difficult task tonight was actually getting into my workshop, as the padlock had completely frozen solid! To make matters worse, both my blowtorches, my oxy acetylene kit and my hot air gun were the wrong side of the door. After struggling for a while to even get the key in, I resorted to thawing it out with a 'warm fluid' straight from the tap.

    Once inside I began the task of engaging the selector forks inside the gearbox, and attaching to the selector rods. This took a surprising length of time which I'm going to blame partly on inexperience, and partly on numb fingers! 

    I then tried to select gears by moving the relevant rods. 1st, 2nd and reverse all slipped into place quite easily, but worryingly I couldn't engage 3rd or 4th at all. I had to temporarily attach the gear lever, and even then it took some effort to move.
    I'm hoping that's just down to a new synchro assembly, and will loosen off in use. It seemed just to be the initial start of movement when resistance was felt, and the actual engagement felt pretty positive. Plus this is with a dry box apart from the assembly oiling, so once full of EP90 it should be easier.
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