Jump to content

JuridicalGrunt

Full Members
  • Content Count

    59
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About JuridicalGrunt

  • Rank
    Rank Morris Ital

Country

  • Country
    United Kingdom

Recent Profile Visitors

250 profile views
  1. now’s the best time to start collecting panel work if you need it some stuff is starting to get harder to find like rear quarter panels and some of the inner front panels, but quite a lot is still available and not too expensive. the wiring looks scary but isn’t too bad, what part of your loom has gone brittle mine was still nice and flexible even in the engine bay just someone attacked mine with an angle grinder.
  2. hello all with being back at work has allowed me to return to the rover ,so just before the lockdown I had taken the week off so the first job was to install some sound deadening mat onto the floors and the doors. I went for this silent coat sound mat it wasn’t too expensive but seems to do a good job of taking the ringing out of the panels when you tap on them. I’ve put a fare bit more of this on than rover ever did from the factory, I still need to make the mats that go on the floors and bulkhead. with that done I cleaned up and put the steering column in. next I cleaned up and repaired the rear wiring harnesses and refitted them to the car. next I decided to refit the v8 wing badges ,the badges are in fairly good condition you can buy new ones but so much of this car is new I wanted to keep some of the original parts I took off so a good polish with some chrome cleaner and some new sicky pads they went back on really nicely. next was to get all the doors completely fitted up so each door was gone through its had all new window seals the window motor was cleaned up and re greased as was the latch and catch, its got all new door handles and brand new rubber mirrors. it took about 1 day a door to get them fitted up. the electric windows on my car worked quite well but the one weak point I found in them was the window switch’s they are very susceptible to corrosion on the terminal’s inside, lucky these switch’s are super easy to take apart and service you just pop the top off them with a small screwdriver and lift the two small contacts out and give them a good clean, after I cleaned them I put some dielectric grease in to hold off them corroding again . here is a bit of information that might be useful to someone on series 1 car their a two types of outer door handles early cars I believe 1976 to 1978 have a brushed chrome finish to them and later cars 1978 onwards have a regular shiny chrome finish but here is a picture of the two side by side. also the rear door handles are exactly the same both sides all you need to do to make the handle fit which ever side you need is to swap over the arm that actuates the mechanism on the inside. next I did the same to the other doors and fitted the rear quarter windows with new rubbers and fitted the b and c post trims. these little clips are what holed the rear quarter chrome trim on under the window the little plastic spacer you can still buy form rimmer bros but rimmers say the metal clip is no longer available this isn’t true the clips are available from bresco and eBay if you search for mk4 ford zodiac waist trim clips as they are exactly the same clip bresco list them with the ford or rover part number. here is the other side fitted up. i pushed the car outside as i wanted to see the car in the sunlight. well typically their wasn’t much sunlight but its starting to look like a car again its getting really exiting. with it back inside it was time to finish repairing and fitting the main wiring loom. the loom was damaged when it had the wings changed Meany years ago they hit the loom with a grinder badly slicing about 5 wires one being the main earth running inside the car, instead of fixing the damage they just taped over it and left it. so with it fixed and re wrapped I refitted it. next up will up will be the heater box and brake master cylinder. Ryan
  3. I’ve heard of speedy spares I need to contact them about some parts for my 64 super minx I didn’t think they did anything for it as it seemed on their site that they mostly did 60s and 70s stuff. I’ve had the same fun with the rear door hands on mine lucky mine freed off with a bit of wd40 and now seem to work ok. my mirrors were so smashed their wasn’t really anything left of them I ended up fitting 309 mirrors which kind of fit. I’ve managed to source some parts for it I’ve got genuine outer cv boots, rear wheel cylinder’s and flexi hoses also track rods, I’ve also got spares carb on the way from Spain I order a few weeks ago as mine still has running issues. the main issue is bushes pretty much most of them are dry rotten they don’t haven any play in them that i can feel but I think they would fail an mot the worst bush being on drivers side front lower control arm which has been soaked in oil for years and has gone gooey, the book says you have to take the torsion bar out which looks really fun. and the other issue under the car is the drivers rear trailing arm has a very small rust hole near the spring cup this is the one that really stumped me as your not supposed to weld tailing arms but i don’t know where you would find another one. their a really quirky car especially when you throw in the random Peugeot bits.
  4. bloody hell that’s a rare sight good spot I think the last time I looked theirs less that 12 alpine rapiers left with only 2 on the road. its a shame it doesn’t use more Peugeot parts its silly things like inner driveshaft boots usually the shaft is around 20mm but these are about 42mm I’m not sure why with only 90hp. the closest I could find was 35mm boots which might work.
  5. Time for a thread resurrection!! with the lockdown I’ve had some more time on my hands to remember I had this, id be lying if id said I had done anything to it in just over a year about the only thing that happened was I moved it when I sold my calibra.so I decided I should probably take a look at it now my brother wanted to have a go at welding it as he has never done any welding and this would be some good practice. I wasn’t planning on this so didn’t bring home any of my equipment from work so we made do with the stuff I had in the garage which isn’t much. their was two large holes in the rear inner tubs that he welded up. the top one was his first attempt and overall I think he did very well for his first attempt at welding with the not very good welder I have here at home it only really has two settings doesn’t weld anything or so hot everything melts, but with those done he moved on to some smaller holes in the tubs and under the rear seat. with those done I gave him a hand to fix the hole in the passenger chassis leg and b post. with those done that was pretty much all the holes that would fail an mot.so I went on to finish tidying the repair I did to the driver rear sill some time ago. looking much better I did paint the sill with some silver paint that is close to the original and then game it a cote of lacquer but didn’t take a picture of it. I also made an attempt to tidy up the drivers rear wheel arch now the rear section of the arch by the filler cap is completely rotten the last owner looks to have made a section out of plastic and filler now I have two new wheel arch panels to go on but I didn’t want to do it with the welder I have here I also have no air tools here so I ground back the worst of it put some rust treat on it and re skimmed it with filler. now I really don’t like doing stuff like that but it looks a lot better and should hold it back for a while I also did the other side as well which is in far better shape. I also re stone guarded the passenger sill and painted it too. with that done it looks much better now I had to remove the tow bar as every time I’ve walked past the back of the car I’ve hit my leg on it which was annoying also I had discovered it was rotten when I was looking underneath at something else so off it came. to my amazement all the bolts came undone really easy which was nice. while that was off I cleaned up the spare wheel mount bolt and repaired the stripped thread on the end witch I believe is a safety. # I also painted the interior door handles as they were really badly faded and bugging me. now this is where I have hit problems pretty much everything I’ve been looking for is really difficult to find it, or you need to modify something to fit. I had been toying with the ideal of selling it when I got the Hillman I’ve also wanted to get a mk2 Astra for long time so I’ve pretty much decided that I’m going to put it up for sale so if anybody is interested I would like 650 for it as that’s what it owes me so if anyone is interested send me a message I can list every thing it needs. I don’t want to put it on eBay if no one wants It shall keep it. Ryan
  6. These were my two back in 2012 my dolomite 1500hl Which i had been my main car through my third year at collage and my daily driver to work. then i got the bluebird turbo sr Which took over daily dutes from the dolomite, i wish i had kept the bluebird but parts were just impossible to find.
  7. evening all i hope everyone is safe and well Progress has been contining over the last couple of weeks i managed to get a week off a few weeks ago to push the car along ,so first up was to loosely assemble the front subfame so it could go back in the subfame will have to come out again to fit the engine a box and change the steering rack. with the subframe back in the car next up was the rear axle, first job was to to rebuild the brakes so it need new drums as one of the old ones was very badly scored and worn and the other side looked as if the brake hadnt been working , its got new shoes wheel cyliders and hanbrake leavers and the springs were cleaned and painted. with that done i put the crossmember on the front of the axle next was to make up the brake pipes for the axle i kept the original pipes to use as patterns i decided to remake the brake pipes in the original zinc plated steel. i was pleased with how these came out here they are fitted to the axle along with the tie bars , new watts link and a new handbrake cable with rebuilt compensator so the handbrake should work alot better than it did. thats the axle ready to fit, next up was to clean up the fuel tank and filler pipe the bottom of the tank was in very good condition because someone in the past waxed the bottom of the car the top of the tank not so much but lucky all surface rust. the tank sender was a new unit just before the car came off the road so was still good i tested the pump and to my amazement it still worked though i shall be keeping a spare pump in the boot. i put a new filler hose and breather hoses on and cleaned up the plastic fuel line ready to fit. i also cleaned up and painted the fuel fill pipe . next i fitted the rear dampers and and watts link brackets to the shell then rich came and gave me a hand and we fitted the rear axle to the car, we were surprised how easy the axle was to fit we had it bolted in about 30 mins, i fitted the handbrake and connected the cable up . next i wanted to get the fuel line clips in but you cant get the original clips anymore someone on the club did find a guy in italy who had 9 of them which is enough to do a v8 car but he wanted 3 quid each for them and wouldnt ship to the uk so the next best solution was to use ford mk1 escort clips these look almost the same but are grey insted of black and you have have to drill the hole in the chassis leg out to 8mm but you can get 10 for 3.99. so with the tank in it was to time for the big moment, for it to go back on its wheels for the fist time in just over 2 years. this moment felt like such a milestone this now means i could start fitting the doors up and start the wiring . More to come Ryan
  8. Evening all i have made some more progress first up i finished fitting the new headlight and indicator to the car i also painted fitted the bonnet and boot latch. next up was to clean up and polish the front bumper but i needed to repir the number plate surround. on series 1 sd1s these sounds are usually broken as they stick out , now mine wasnt too bad only one side had cracked i fixed this a few years ago but during storage it cracked again,so i set to fixing it. so i keyed up the inisde and used a little bit of fibergalss then smoothed the outside down and painted it satin black and refitted it to the cleaned and polished bumper. here it is on the car with that it really starts to look like a car again. next up was to do the same to the rear bumper on that i had repair one of the jack tubes as the end of it had rusted out i thought about getting a new on but these bolt into the rubber corners and the bolts didnt want to move and i didnt want to ruin a good corner so i repired it. cleaned and polished and here it is on the car next up i need to get the running gear fitted so i can get it off the dolly so i fitted my rebult struts to the car and cleaned and painted the new subframe ready to start putting it togeather. next up will be fitting up the subrame, its getting really exiting as its close to being able to go onto its wheels. Many thanks Ryan
  9. Im completely in love with the colour you put it in the sun and flips between sea green and a various shades of blue.your capri and it would make a good pair hopefuly they can meet one day .
  10. Hello all the paintwork has been finished it has been polished so here it is. I am absolutely over the moon with it our apprentice luke has poured his heart and soul into it and gone the extra mile on it i really cant thank him enough.so the rebulid can begin so i really wanted to put the badges back on the rear i got a new 3500 v8 badge as mine was really worn out but i saved the rover badge. i cleaned and fiited the rear lights with new seals. also all the doors and boot and bonnet have brand new seals. ive been looking forward to fitting my brand new bonnet badge for a long time so on it went along with plastic insert for the grill. so next up from my parts collection is a pair of nos headlights i only got to fit one as one needed the frame repainting and a nos complete indicator unit. I am really exited to start the rebuild now and should be able to get it on its wheels fairly shortly. Thanks for looking Ryan
  11. Hello all Its been a long time since i last update this, the last few months have been pretty busy and i got another car to add to the collection. Its a left hand drive 1964 hillman super mix that used to belong to a customer he decided he wanted to sell it and i fell in love with it and decided i had to have it, the car was in amazing condition having only had some small plates on the sills and being completely original every where else,ive put 2 new sills on it and new clutch and it runs and drives very well, it needs some electrical work then i can get it an mot and registed. But onto the rover the paint work is done its just waiting for a polish then i shall upload some pictures but while it was in paint i decided it was time to crack on with the mechanical work,so i pulled the engine and subframe and rear axel out of storage to strip them down. this is the first time they have seen the light of day in nearly 3 years.first up was to remove the engine from the subframe as im going to work on the engine last.then i stripped the subframe down to see what was useable Which as it turned out was not alot. once i started pulling it apart i started running into problems, first was the anti roll bar had rusted badly where the bushes go into the lower arms so it was junk. next up was strip the strut legs down i had hoped to reuse the legs but change the damper inserts,but i couldnt find new inserts and when trying to remove the nuts from the top of damper caseing it turns out rover made the nuts out of die cast zinc and even after heat i destroyed the nut trying to get it undone. and then upon removing the hub from the passnger side strut leg i found the bearing had spun destroying the spindle Which is part of the strut leg , the hub was destroyed because the race had also spun. so at this point the useable parts on the stuts was one hub the brake dust shields and the springs everything else was junk. so after doing some shopping i got everything to rebuild the struts. and thats one rebulit leg i did the same to the other and they are ready to refit to the subframe. i also painted the track control arms and poly bushed them ready to go on. next i went onto the rear axel. my main concern with this was that it might have no oil in it the back plate looked wet when i got the car but in my rush to put it on the road at the time i didnt check it. but when i pulled the back plate it was full of nice clean oil and looked in great shape so i made a decision.i bought bearings and seals for the whole axel but seen as i wasnt leaking any oil out of the half shaft seals or anywere else, it didnt wine or clunk i decided to leave it alone and clean and paint the axel and see how it goes if it does leak its an easy job to get the axel out. i filled the axel with new gear oil so its ready to have the brakes done. i had to buy new tie bars as the they had also rusted in the bushes i also got a complete new watts linkage as it was cheaper than buying just the bushes so i pained them ready to fit. next up i refurbished the rear dampers now this car has the nivomat rear dampers and they are no longer available luckily my car had new ones just before i bought it so they were in good nick i manged to get 2 pairs of used ones a few years ago as spares which came in handy as one on mine needed a new dust boot. a new old stock dust boot came up on ebay a litlle wile ago and they wanted 40 quid for one . i got the paint colour matched of them before i stripped the paint off but with them done they are ready to refit. ive got a bit more to update but dont want to make this too long. i hope everyone had a good christmas and great new year. Ryan
  12. Hello all Right its been a long time since i last updated this as work has been mega busy here is a few pictures of the last car i worked on a cavalier turbo which needed a fair bit of work. but on with the sd1 the plan changed i was originally going to paint it myself but after talking with our painters i decided to let them do it as i know painting is not my strong suit so after a chat with my boss it was booked in for paint.first up was to get the shell keyed up and primed and then rubbed back and the filler work started. all the work on the car is being done by our apprentice luke who is doing amazingly well and this will be his first metallic full respray, after luke finished the filler work the car went in for its second colored primer which for this is a cool peppermint green. after that next up was to paint the inside, i choose was to use tintable upol raptor tinted to the colour of the car and sprayed with a spay gun so its perfecty smooth. this just gives an extra layer of protection on the insde. after that luke moved on to flatting and topcoationg the door shuts, now im going to tease a little as i want to save the full reveal for when the car is fully painted but here is a little tease. this straight off the spray gun and the car will be flat and polished when its done, im getting really exited now the car is looking fantastic and i cant wait to start putting it back togeather. Thanks for looking Ryan
  13. ive been meaning to catch up with this,it looks amazing i love the colour. keep up the good work!
  14. Morning all i had a week off so it was time to try to push it along in paint prep.time to remove the last bit of underseal on the sills as i wanted to prime them while it was on the body roller. the sills shall be coated in smooth upol raptor when they are painted.next was to key up the underside and a few of the outer panels ready for the epoxy primer. with that done it was time to push it into the booth and start priming it, its amizing what a bit of primer does to make it feeling like your getting somewhere, with it back out the booth it was time to key up the primer and seam seal. then back in the booth to have the upol black rapotor sprayed on. it took six bottles of raptor to do it and im really happy with the finish. its getting quite exiting now as its getting closer and closer to paint. Thanks for looking Ryan
  15. Evening all with the outer panel work done it was time to strip it down and put it on a body roller to clean up the underside and do any final repairs. so i made up some mounts for the roller set up the lifting aframes and mounted it on the roller. my first proper look under it and it was looking pretty good. now for the really boring task of removing all the old underseal,i found on this the best way to get it off was with a heat gun and a scraper the wire wheels just made a mess. with the underseal removed i was pleasantly surpised i found one pin hole a few dents and some welds that needed cleaning up. i knocked out most of the dents but left a few in the chassis legs that run under the floor as their was no access to them from the other side and didnt want to slice the leg open to remove them their only small dents so im not too concerned. one thing i did need to do was one nut on the gearbox mount had been crossthreaded some time in the past, i ran a tap through hoping it would clean up but the threads were just too damaged so i had to remove it. with that done it was just a few small jobs left like filling in some small holes fitting some missing wiring tags and replacing that last broken door hinge. and with that done i think thats all the metalwork done on the shell,so with that milestone reached i went out and bought all the paint primer lacquer and upol raptor to paint and underseal the car. so next up should be prepping the underside for primer seamseal and raptor. Thanks for looking Ryan
×
×
  • Create New...