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About JuridicalGrunt

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    Rank Morris Ital


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    United Kingdom

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  1. Hello all Right its been a long time since i last updated this as work has been mega busy here is a few pictures of the last car i worked on a cavalier turbo which needed a fair bit of work. but on with the sd1 the plan changed i was originally going to paint it myself but after talking with our painters i decided to let them do it as i know painting is not my strong suit so after a chat with my boss it was booked in for paint.first up was to get the shell keyed up and primed and then rubbed back and the filler work started. all the work on the car is being done by our apprentice luke who is doing amazingly well and this will be his first metallic full respray, after luke finished the filler work the car went in for its second colored primer which for this is a cool peppermint green. after that next up was to paint the inside, i choose was to use tintable upol raptor tinted to the colour of the car and sprayed with a spay gun so its perfecty smooth. this just gives an extra layer of protection on the insde. after that luke moved on to flatting and topcoationg the door shuts, now im going to tease a little as i want to save the full reveal for when the car is fully painted but here is a little tease. this straight off the spray gun and the car will be flat and polished when its done, im getting really exited now the car is looking fantastic and i cant wait to start putting it back togeather. Thanks for looking Ryan
  2. ive been meaning to catch up with this,it looks amazing i love the colour. keep up the good work!
  3. Morning all i had a week off so it was time to try to push it along in paint prep.time to remove the last bit of underseal on the sills as i wanted to prime them while it was on the body roller. the sills shall be coated in smooth upol raptor when they are painted.next was to key up the underside and a few of the outer panels ready for the epoxy primer. with that done it was time to push it into the booth and start priming it, its amizing what a bit of primer does to make it feeling like your getting somewhere, with it back out the booth it was time to key up the primer and seam seal. then back in the booth to have the upol black rapotor sprayed on. it took six bottles of raptor to do it and im really happy with the finish. its getting quite exiting now as its getting closer and closer to paint. Thanks for looking Ryan
  4. Evening all with the outer panel work done it was time to strip it down and put it on a body roller to clean up the underside and do any final repairs. so i made up some mounts for the roller set up the lifting aframes and mounted it on the roller. my first proper look under it and it was looking pretty good. now for the really boring task of removing all the old underseal,i found on this the best way to get it off was with a heat gun and a scraper the wire wheels just made a mess. with the underseal removed i was pleasantly surpised i found one pin hole a few dents and some welds that needed cleaning up. i knocked out most of the dents but left a few in the chassis legs that run under the floor as their was no access to them from the other side and didnt want to slice the leg open to remove them their only small dents so im not too concerned. one thing i did need to do was one nut on the gearbox mount had been crossthreaded some time in the past, i ran a tap through hoping it would clean up but the threads were just too damaged so i had to remove it. with that done it was just a few small jobs left like filling in some small holes fitting some missing wiring tags and replacing that last broken door hinge. and with that done i think thats all the metalwork done on the shell,so with that milestone reached i went out and bought all the paint primer lacquer and upol raptor to paint and underseal the car. so next up should be prepping the underside for primer seamseal and raptor. Thanks for looking Ryan
  5. Morning all After finishing skinning the drives door i did all the other doors. instead of showing every other door as there pretty much the same here is a picture of them of them finished and fitted to the car. With the doors all done it was time finish up some small repairs on the front end like tidying up the remaining sectons of the wing rails and preping the inner front panels like the rad box supports battery tray supports and various little pieces. I put the radiator in and lined up the supports and welded them in place. One issue i needed to sort out was the check strap on the drivers door. on series 1 sd1s this is a non removeable part at some point in the past probably when it had its accident they tried to ajust the door hinge by hitting it with a hammer. unfortunatly they snapped the check strap, what i had to do was buy an entire a post assembly from rimmer bros that comes complete with the hinges , but these hinges are for a series 2 car so look slightly diffrent but work perfectly so i set to swapping the hinge over. With that swapped over it now has a functional check strap. next up was to prep the front wings ready to fit. And after a final fit up it was time to commit and weld the wings on and the grill panel . and here it is after being welded and fitted up. And with that a big milestone has been achived as all the outer pannel work is done, and next up is to put it on a body roller and strip the undeseal, its getting really close to paint. Thanks for looking Ryan
  6. yeah that shell has been dipped one negative with it is it gets coated in a anti rust solution before it comes back but it will only hold the rust back for so long so cant leave it for a long period of time before working on it. you also need to have it e coated after finishing the repairs as all the box sections in the shell are bare steel.
  7. capitan 70s i have a spare what i belive is a 1300 engine it was was sold to me as a 1300 i bought about 8 years ago for my 1300 spitfire project which im now selling i checked the engine this morning and still turns over i removed rocker shaft when it got it so that nothing could get in the bores. i can take the head off to check the bores for you if you want but you can have the engine for free it would need a rebiuld as i dont know when it ran last. here is a few pics of it ive put one of the engine number if that helps identifdy it.
  8. Evening all long time no update but steady progress has been made after finishing up the passenger side bulkhead i moved over to the drives side and did the same repair on that side. with the bulkhead repaired i moved on to making up a new end for the inner wing first i started by folding a 90 degree bend on my repair piece to make the edge that welds to the bulkhead ,then i used a shrinker stretcher to make the main shape then i finished shaiping it by hand. with that done i took the precaution of removing the clutch master cyinder brace plate, sd1s like to rust behind the bracket and then crack the bulkhead mine looked ok on the outside but had a nice layer of surface rust underneath. i cleaned every thnig up coated the bulkhead and brackets with por 15 and welded them back on. next up was a small few holes in the driver side floor pan so i cut it out and made a new section with that done i stripped the rest of the paint off the floor and painted it with por 15 with that done i decided i wanted a brake from the shell and moved on to reskinning all the doors. sd1 doors are very rot prone when removing the skins off my doors i was surpiesd at just how far the rust on the frame had got it was all the way round the edge of the frame it hadnt got through the outer skin on most doors but would would have in another few years. this is the drivers door these are some of the tools i used to remove the skin on the front doors of the sd1 the skin held by being crimped round the frame of the door with one spot weld at the bottom of the front edge of the door. it also has two stitch welds holding the top of the skin to the window frame there are also a few spot welds at the back of the door where the trim clips over. i was taught the best way to remove skins was with a 4 inch grinder with a 36 grit sanding disc using the grinder to sand throgh the edge of the door skin being carefull not to grind into the frame. once youve gone all the way round you can separate the skin with a chisel and just peel off the side of the skin that was inside the door and just lift the skin off with the skin off i could see the whole frame was covered in surface rust with a few small holes at the bottom i cleaned up the frame and repaired the small hole at the bottom and then painted the frame with por 15 next up was to prep the new skin i scuff sanded the inside with 120 grit sand paper and painted the new skin with por once that was done i slotted the new skin onto the door frame and turned the edge of the skin of using a panel hammer and a heavy dolly once that was done i refited it to the car and tweaked the door by pulling and twisting the door to get a nice gap once that was done i welded the skin to the window frame and two small welds to the bottom corners. and with that done thats one door done i have plenty more to update but i dont want to make this too long so shall do another update soon Thanks for looking Ryan
  9. JuridicalGrunt

    SD1 Woes

    bren is yours a v8 if so thier is another earth strap on the passanger bank of the engine it goes from the block to under the coil and ballast resistor here is a couple of pictures of it.
  10. Morning all a little more progress has been made on this triplerich popped over one weekend and had a look at the non functioning rear wiper after stipping it down it became pretty obvious why it wasnt working. its been full of water for some time rich gave it his best but it wasnt going to live. i thought my chances of finding a replacement would be zero but i remembered i bought a new old stock trico rear wash wipe kit about 4 years ago that fits a few cars and one happens to be the talbot alpine so that kit shall be used. at the same time i remembered i had got a smiths fuel computer so at some point we shall fit that aswell. i also managed to do a bit more welding to the passanger rear wheel arch and door step. its coming along slowly but steadily. thanks for looking Ryan
  11. evening all seriously long time no update, i still have the car ive been doing little bits and pieces when i can find the time. i managed to get the front brakes all rebuilt and now it stops pretty well, i managed to find a solution to the wing mirrors, i found early peugeot 309 wing mirrors will fit with some modification and look pretty in keeping. and i think it only cost me 20 quid for a pair of brand new lucas ones. one problem this car had was the gear change was like stirring coal, i found the linkage was totally worn out. this car has the be1 peuegot gearbox i found a company online that sold a linkage kit for 205 gti with a bit of modification this fits perfectly on the talbot and now the gear linkage is really tight. one thing i did was clean the front of the engine as had about 2 inchs of oil covering it and now it looks abit better i also gave the alternator a good clean. i replaced the inlet manifold gasket as it was having some weird running issues. i also found some nos tailgate gas struts. one issue i had when i was was moving the car around was the steering wheel had started to disintegrate, it went all sticky and crumbly in places, i couldnt find a replacement standard steering wheel but beacuse the steering column is from peugeot 309 i manged to get a leather 205 gti steering wheel for a really good price and fitted that which is much nicer to use. i started on repairing the rust in the passanger rear sill end, it had been plated before and was looking rather crumbly. crunchy, so at work i made up some new outer sill pieces and a new strengthener piece. with those made i started to repair the inner sill .i also bead welded the nut for the rear subrame on as ive heard these can spin out if you try to undo them . And that brings it about up to date. thanks for looking Ryan
  12. Evening all i didnt realise how long its been since i last updated this progress is continuing, i managed to get a good amount done when i had a week off last month. i finished up repairing the passange side sill end but somehow forgot to take a picture of it. further up the inner wing was a seam that had blown out that was replaced. with that sorted one small job was to the wiring grommet hole, someone in the past wanted an electric arieal so just hacked the hole open and pushed the jagged metal back up when they were done, it cut me so many times when working in that footwell it was time to fix it. much bettter, next up was to start rebuliding the scuttle panel upper and lower section, the lower piece had sufferd quite badly in one corner and had rust holes were the water drain in the center is . with that done i moved on to the upper section this had surface rust all over the underside with some holes in a few places, i fixed the few holes that were in it and gave a good coat of por-15 with a good coat of wax aswell it sould be good. with that done it was time it put it all back togeather on the car its nice to see it back on the car it was alot of work to rebuild it,but that isnt the end of the bulkhead work next was to rebuild the inner wing to bulhead joins on both sides, sd1s really like to rot the bulkheads out. this was the state of the passage side. inevitably i had to replace quite alot. i was hoping the end of the inner wing would be salvageable but it was too far gone so i made up a replacement i hope this post isnt too long ,next up will be the other side. many thanks Ryan
  13. afternoon all my new subframe arrived so i could continue with straightening the front end, so after putting the new subframe in and pulling the passanger chassis leg and inner wing over it was starting to line up. a measure up of the strut tops showed it to be within 1mm of factory your alowed up to 2mm under or over. with that i could start finishing up the drivers side inner wing cleaning off the old underseal and painting it with por-15. next up was to start on the passanger side repairing the inner arch down to the sill . at the sill to inner wing join the rust had spead along the seam towards the apost. with the inner done i cut out my repair section from my full sill ready to go in. thanks for lookng
  14. Here is a pic of my old dolomite 1500hl on dolomite avenue.
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