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TripleRich

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TripleRich last won the day on July 16 2017

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About TripleRich

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    Welding the Granada

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  1. Time to look at the gearbox... I have the original 4 speed unit which I think is a Type E but I may be mistaken. I've driven many Capri's, Consuls & Granada’s with a 4 speed box. For me personally they cry for 5th gear at 70 and Ford's reluctance to offer overdrive or 5 gears in the late 70s/early 80s really shows on today’s faster roads. I'd planned to put a 5 speed in my car from the beginning of this thread. Fortunately working in my profession the right gearbox is never very far away. Here we have an early 5 speed type 9 from about 1983. It came from a 2.3 mk2 Granada which I have driven so I know it’s good. Being a 2.3 it’s got the right input shaft and bell housing for my engine. Should be a straight swap. It’s covered in oil from the 2.3 it was attached to, so much oil I'd say that engine leaked from day one of ownership. After a massive degreasing session it came up quite well. I'll take some of it apart and replace the essential gaskets and oil seals. I don't think it leaks but I'd rather put some fresh gaskets & seals in it, Only issue is the bolt for the cross member bushing has seriously corroded into the tail shaft housing. Despite several attempts at removing the sheared bolt with 19mm nuts and welding it just continued the shear until there was nothing to weld to. I drilled the rest out and re-tapped the hole. Lots of cleaning, degreasing and a few seals & gaskets. Primed & painted all the various parts ready for reassembly. Chuffed with the results and it still goes in all the gears! I left the gasket between the box & intermediate plate because you have to remove the main shaft to replace it and I didn't fancy that. I'm no gearbox expert so I always get a bit concerned when I start messing about with them. With so many jobs complete I sorted through and organised my remaining parts. Found these! They won’t be going on but I did laugh when I found them.
  2. From the factory ones I've seen they used a masking mold. A factory wheel has plenty of imperfections from the mold being tossed on. With sheet metal they just lob the panel in the jig and let the sparks fly. I guess the paint shop used similar methods.
  3. I popped the chrome and caps off the wheels. They were a bit of a mess, cosmetically challenged you might say. I could get the tyres taken off and run them down to the blasters but I'm trying to save a few quid. I can do these myself, just a matter of time. I removed as much rust and old paint as possible. They've survived well considering nobody's touched them for 45 years. Applied a rust treatment to the entire wheel. Turns to a black paintable surface once it's finished doing its stuff. Masked up the tyre and valve stem. The tyres will be replaced but I don't want to stare at overspray while I continue to use the old ones. Heavy coat of etch primer. Then some sanding before a heavy coat of satin black. Then masking and lots of it. Wheels of this style are a pain to paint, but the results are well worth a thorough masking job. Some strato silver and a splash of lacquer completes the wheel. The spare doesn't have a tyre on it yet. Very pleased with the masking job, I touched in any imperfections with a small brush before applying the lacquer. Took about 13 hours to do all 5 wheels, glad its over! I'll fit the centre caps and chrome embellishers at a later date. I've also done some upholstery in the boot. Originally there was black carpet and it's all knackered. Cut and glued in some new stuff. I've used some campervan type carpet that can be stretched and molded to complex shapes. Still a way to go yet. Gets better with each weekend, well chuffed with the wheels.
  4. Nice! I've seen pictures but never any footage. Cheers for finding
  5. At 1108 hours the labour would be £43,212 Then add the VAT and the cost of parts and sundries. A rough estimate for a full restoration on most rotten classic cars is about 1000 hours. Some cars with silly parts prices can get close to £100k when complete. Being able to do the work myself and a decent haul of parts is the only reason I took this project on. When finished I will have spent nearly whats its worth on just parts, sundries and services like blasting & recon. Used up most of my free time for the past 4 years spending every available Saturday working on it at about 8 hours a throw. Not uncommon to work into the evenings or straight after work either. So far... Metalwork/rust repair - 639 hours - Remember I had to teach myself fabrication along the way and some areas I ended up doing again Paintwork - 208 hours - Not having to worry about the roof saved a chunk of time Mechanical/reassembly work - 261 hours - Slowed my pace here slightly to enjoy this part of the project
  6. Sorted out the hidden front speakers. I've already hidden two in the back behind the quarter panel trims. Up front the only place available is under the dashboard. Under the dash from factory you have a very flimsy bit of black trim on both sides. I've made something similar from steel to hold the two speakers. Put some sound deadening on the inside and fitted using the same mounts as the factory trim. Fitted some new pedal rubbers and finished up various small jobs in this area. The result is a decent sound system hidden from view. No holes in door cards or the parcel tray, pleased with the results. The speakers are connected to a hidden Bluetooth amp which connects to my phone when I switch on the ignition. I've also fitted some giffer spec mudflaps to try and keep the A posts and rear wings from getting chipped and covered in filth. They are of course genuine Ford items.
  7. The shields are not available but you could make them with new material. I have the originals from the car and two unused front ones which I've fitted. They get destroyed by oil leaks or left off after working on the suspension. Seats are indeed beta cloth. My local trimmer is only 5 mins from the house, he does good work. Wasn't overly concerned about the material or work, just told me they would take a while as hes busy. I'm in no rush as the engine & drive line still need doing.
  8. While the engine is away I'm continuing the build finishing up various jobs. I've also taken the seats to the trimmers. The front seats are knackered and while the rear isn't damaged its faded and saggy condition really lets the car down. I should get them back in about 2 months. I've completed most of the wiring now and have installed various security devices along the way. I turned my attention to the steel panel that sits under the dashboard. It had various holes drilled in it so I took the time to weld them up and repaint the whole thing. Installed in the car and also fitted the various parts that make up the glove box. The dash is now very close to completion. The glove box doesn't fit all that well but I've yet to see a Granada with one that does. It all works and I've made sure to test the electrics again. Next job here is to fit the remaining speakers for the hidden sound system. I've also repainted the steering wheel but forgot to take a picture of it. In the engine bay I've just about finished everything ready for the engine. The often missing cardboard splash shields have also been fitted. Note the organised chaos that makes up a factory Ford engine bay. I also removed all the locks from the car and took them apart. Using parts from other locks I been able to match them all to the same key. Nothing more annoying than having 3 different keys for the same car. Still a fair few bits to go but I'm closing in on completion. If I'm lucky I might be able to get the car on the road for September. Continue to polish various bits of paintwork Sort the gearbox out Hidden speakers Driveshaft Exhaust Clean/paint brackets & hardware relating to engine & gearbox Build & fit engine Overhaul wheels & fit new tyres Boot carpet Remaining trim pieces/small issues
  9. Nice repair on those corners. Shame about the screen. Lube and plenty of thumps from outside while the rope is being pulled is the most effective method. I'm surprised the bloke didn't tear the rubber with the rope. We've had similar problems with fitters in the past. Don't use them anymore.
  10. Those are ghia trims, they are quite a bit fatter than the GL version. Trim is a minefield for these, so many differences once you start looking.
  11. Work, friends and I use a local place called T&L. Used them for years and never had any cars come back with problems. Not the cheapest but the work is good. They're always very busy so expect to wait in line. https://vintage-engine.net/
  12. Made some more good progress this week. Bit of a setback with the engine but I wasn't all that surprised. When I painted the car I didn't mask up all that well. This resulted in a load of over spray getting onto the boot floor. I've polished that out and continued to complete many small jobs in the back of the car. The rear seat area is now mostly finished with all the various bits back where they belong. I've added some more sound deadening too. I managed to get a new rubber for the back window. I had used the original rubber and its a bit tired/split. So I removed the screen, fitted the new rubber and polished the chrome. The front screen rubber is not great either but Granada spec coupe sized front screen rubbers are not yet available. I have bought a roll of the right stuff and may try making a complete rubber out of it in future. Now for the engine. Theres a bit of a story with this... It's an early 2.3 cologne v6. The ones fitted to Mk2 Granadas and Sierras are slightly different. Its the original engine and its currently in bits. When I bought the car the previous owner explained that he'd dismantled the engine and had the local engine place go though it (unleaded heads etc). Its all bagged & boxed and should be ready to build. I decided to not investigate any further as the car was a complete wreck. Seemed odd that the engine had been worked on before the car but as the owner couldn't weld I understood his reasoning for approaching the restoration in that way. I've since discovered that occurred in 2009. So the engine had sat in bits for 7 years before I bought the car. Its now been 11 years so I was expecting problems. Obviously its gone a bit rusty which is no good and needs cleaning off. The bores have gone rusty but thats no problem as they are worn out. This engine needed a rebore when it came apart. Its been honed so I suspect finances played a role here and the previous owner couldn't afford the work so opted for a cleanup hoping he'd get away with it. The cam bearings have not been changed. One of them has a chunk taken out of it possibly from cam removal. The cam is worn and rusty, I'll get a new one and get the bearings changed. The crank has survived well. Needs a polish, will get it balanced too. The remaining components are all rusty and the pistons are seized on the gudgeon pins. The pistons have to be changed anyway as the block needs to be bored I've taken the engine to the same place who originally did the work as we use them all the time. Will be a while before I see it again. The block is being acid dipped and bored Pistons will be replaced Cam bearings changed and cam replaced Crank polished and balanced Remaining components cleaned up Heads cleaned/checked They will take a closer look and go from there. They basically said the whole engine looks to have had the minimum done to it with the hope that it would be ok upon reassembly. So a setback but not exactly surprising. I'm very keen on retaining the original engine. If I did replace it whatever I get would need a rebuild as the days of cheap perfectly fine essex/cologne v6s are long gone. Both options wont be cheap so I'll stick with originality.
  13. Latest visitor is this... We've worked on the mechanical stuff every other year or so. Knew it was rotten, owner was told it needs welding the next time he comes in. After some investigation we found this lot. Was all hidden under filler, stone guard and clear bathroom sealant. Rear wheel tub and rear end of sill. The split between the inner and outer tub runs right round on both sides. Rear suspension coil and damper mount. Not far from punching through. Was hidden with clear bathroom sealant and stone guard. A posts. I've never seen so many plates. Must be 20 years of history there, its several layers in places. Most of the welding is heaped on top and not actually holding the steel very well. Inside the A post has rotted off the bulkhead. The 'plate' isn't even welded to the post. Owner loves the car to bits. It's been fully stripped and will go on the roller for a lot of metalwork.
  14. I ordered a big box of stuff from Motomobil. Turned up last week, mostly exhaust but some other bits and bobs in there too. My old brake drums were very scored & rotten. No point investing hours into them when you can buy new ones. I've painted them black as they can be seen through the wheels. I've also got the handbrake adjusted & working. My calipers are also made of rust and seized solid. Found a rebuilt set of ate calipers on ebay for a good price. You can buy new unbranded ones but I'm sad and like to keep the original ate calipers if possible. Gave the new ones a lick of paint, fitted pads & blead the brakes. I suspect these rather old unused pads will be a bit crap. Have fitted them for now and will test before going on the road. The car now has working brakes for the first time in over 20 years. Will keep an eye out for leaks over the coming days. Wiper enthusiasts will be pleased to know I've found the correct type of cap for the arms. Looks very nice Continued doing lots of work under the car which isn't easy to photograph. Fitted more brake pipe clips, sorted handbrake guides, attached fuel lines, touched up stoneguard, fitted front dampers, fitted anti rollbar and drop link bushes, etc etc. I've now reached the engine stage! Will look at it next week.
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