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About Rave

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    Rank: Citroen Ami

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  1. Rave

    eBay tat volume 3.

    Did a double take when I saw the seller's name, checked the contacts on my phone, and yup, it's a guy I used to work with. Didn't know him well but he seemed sound enough.
  2. If someone makes a kit around the X308 that's got to be the way to go- if anything they're worth slightly less than X300s as far as I can tell, and there are loads of terminally rusty ones about, reckon you could find a running donor for sub-£500. The Jag V8 might not look right under the bonnet but it'll make the right noise and go like stink!
  3. I rang my local MOT station and told them that I needed the exhaust fitting and then the car MOTd. They told me to come in on Thursday morning. However when I got there it transpired that their mechanic hadn't turned up for work, so they told me to try Friday. So I turned up at the appointed time on Friday only to find that he still wasn't there, and nor was the geezer I'd spoken to on the phone. They told me to come back today. Meanwhile I was having to drive the untaxed and untested car back home each time which was dodgy, but it's only about a mile and the police round my neck of the woods have bigger fish to fry. Today I got there and the mechanic still wasn't in, but I persuaded them to stick it on the ramp for me so I could have a go myself. It was lucky that I'd left my breaker bar and torque wrench in the boot as in the end I needed to undo one of the tie bars from the diff mount to the body to get the link pipe into the centre mount- the mount on the pipe needed a bit of manipulation with a hammer as well, which was a bit nerve wracking as I was worried it'd split the weld or tear the pipe, but in the end brute force and ignorance got it on. So then it was just a case of waiting for a slot in the MOT queue, and after pointing out that it's basically a rusty old piece of crap the tester eventually furnished me with a pass sheet, though as usual there was a long nerve wracking wait for the computer to spit it out. Looking online it seems he first failed it for low brake fluid, which I know isn't true because I'd checked it, so I suspect he uses my shitty old cars to get his fail percentage up, which to be fair I don't have any problem with as they're pretty good to me in there, recent fobbing off notwithstanding. So I was finally able to get home and stick the out-of-tax 106 on the driveway and get it SORNed, hopefully got away with that one- I wasn't exactly bricking it as a friend of mine used to work for a DVSA clamping contractor and apparently they're not allowed to touch them for the first month after the tax expires, but I was half expecting a grumpy letter. Which may still arrive I guess. The SORN website didn't tell me off. So I'm going to fit the Andy Bracket to the Jag, give it a wash and maybe take it for a joy ride or two, before I write an ad. But it's definitely going to be for sale, so in the unlikely event that anyone's got the horn for it just from reading this thread, please make yourselves known...
  4. Time for a long overdue update on this. I left it sitting outside my mum's until the tax ran out, along with my 106, and then having cleared a space on the drive of my new house by fixing my Passat, I dumped them both there. I now need the driveway space for my other 106 whose tax ran out a couple of days ago, so as I figured the Jag would be an easier fix than the red pug, which needs its boot floor welding up, I've been working on it in between torrential downpours. I decided some time ago that I would just bite the bullet and cough up the 220-odd quid that genuine Jag ABS sensors cost- only to find that they're out of stock everywhere. Emailed Naki, who was very nice, but couldn't help. The only way to get one now it seems is to pay £400+ to import one from the US. I think I asked about it in Ask A Shiter, and someone who I can't remember but am very grateful to pointed me to a thread on a Jag forum saying that you can bodge in a sensor from a B5 Audi A4. So I bought one on ebay for about 25 quid IIRC. I was expecting the old sensor to be well stuck in, but what I wasn't expecting was that when I twisted it the cap would simply come off and leave the cylindrical bit in the hole! I thought about it for a bit, and then figured that if I drilled out the contents of it I should be able to collapse the casing in on itself and get it out that way. So I ran a drill down it and pulled out a couple of magnets and thousands of strands of very fine copper wire. Then I attacked the cylinder and soon had it loose. What I hadn't realized was that the cylinder bit is about an inch long, but the hole in the hub it sits in is only about 1cm deep with open space on the other side, so of course as the metal creased part of it expanded and jammed it in. A lot of death-grip-on-my-pipe-pliers and hard yanking action eventually got it out. You have to remove the rear seat base to get at the sensor plug, which was easy enough. I did a pretty amateurish job of crimping the old plug onto the new sensor with my Lidl crimping kit, but putting the multimeter across the plug terminals gave about 1.7KOhm resistance once I had. Hurrah! I knew that the Audi sensor was a bit longer than the Jag one and that I'd have to shim it, but I hadn't expected it to be about 7mm longer! I'd planned on just cutting some bits of plastic out of a milk bottle or margarine tub, but having cut a long strip out of a 4 pinter and folded it up a dozen times I found that that still only gave me about 4mm, and would be an absolute pig of a job to make holes in. In the end I decided to cut down the cap of the old sensor. I got it down to very near 7mm just by luck on the first cut with the angle grinder, and bunged it in. With both sides up on stands and the other back wheel removed (it needed to come off for the exhaust change anyway), I bunged it in drive and tried to spin the hubs up to see if the ABS light would go out. No joy 😬 , though I couldn't get the speedo, which it transpires runs off the N/S/R wheel sensor, much above 10mph. Anyway I figured I'd have to drive it round the block to test it properly so moved on to the exhaust. I couldn't get the bits apart in situ, so decided to cut the already broken centre pipe off near the back box with an angle grinder, which was OK, if as painful as usual with hot sparks flying everywhere. The back box then came out easily and I managed to get the remaining stub of pipe out of it with more angle grinder action and a run with a diamond grinder in my knock off dremel on the inner bit. I took it to the wheely bin to shake the metal flakes from the grinding out, and half the bloody baffle fell out into the bin. Fuck's sake! So ordered a new backbox as well, which arrived in one day and came with a clamp, so that was good at least. With everything that I needed to finish the job I gingerly crawled right underneath to try and get the centre box loose, fully expecting to fail, but by levering the pipe open with a screwdriver and then twatting the sticky out bits backwards with a lump hammer it came off, much to my surprise. So I figured while I was on a roll I'd get the new bits on quick, only to find that with the car on axle stands I can't get the new centre section over the back axle, there's not enough room. It'll have to be done on a ramp. Meanwhile in between showers I'd been adjusting the rear handbrake shoes to try and get a bit more bite, as the handbrake was always high and weak. And while I was under there I noticed that the pipes from the fuel filter were rusty, so I've given them a quick rub with a brass brush and slapped some rust converter on them, not done a brilliant job though TBH as it's hard to get round the back of them. I might spray some wax over them later. So I bunged the wheels back on, dropped the car, pumped up the tyres, and rang my MOT station to see if they could fit me in to bung the new pipe on and then MOT it. Not till tomorrow, apparently. But having booked it in I figured I'd risk driving round the block outside my house which is very quiet, though obviously less so with three out of six cylinders completely unsilenced. Got it off the drive and round the first corner- ABS light still on. Jabbed the throttle to get it up to the 20mph speed limit and...out it went! GET IN!😁😁 Unfortunately the brakes are noisy from having sat, and more worryingly are noticeably pulsing where I guess the pads have rusted on, or something. I've got till tomorrow morning anyway so I'm wondering if I should get the wheels off again and attack the discs with a flap wheel in the grinder to try and clean them up, or whether to take a circuitous route to the MOT station and hope they even up with some use? What do you reckon? They stop the car no bother, though the pedal feels a bit soft, it's so long since I last drove it that I've no idea what it was like before.
  5. Nice, I always wanted a CB250RS. In the late nineties there were usually one or two in the MCN classifieds at £450 or so, but I never found one local to me when I had the cash.
  6. Rave

    Shite Daily Diesels

    I bought HMC's B5.5 Passat with the AWX engine just over a year ago with 239k on it, I've put another 7.5k on it since. The car's falling apart, but the engine is still bang on. A few months after I got it it started running like a bag of spanners, smoking badly, and using 15% more diesel than before- after trying lots of things I eventually figured out that the EGR valve was sticking open. I've blanked it off and normal service has been resumed, and I just put up with it beeping at me every time I start it up. The engine isn't all that bad to work on, it's just a bit unpleasant because it's as filthy in the engine bay as you'd expect a 240k mile diesel to be. However other jobs on it have been a trial, changing the front dampers was a massive pain in the arse for example; changing the battery requires removing the bloody windscreen wipers! Considering that it cost me 300 quid I'm still pretty happy with it, and very much hope to take it to 250k and beyond. It does mid-high 50s at 70mph (according to the trip computer, which is probably optimistic, the tank's huge and I don't do enough miles to have ever bothered doing a full to full MPG check); I've had nearly 65mpg average showing on a couple of more leisurely trips.
  7. Rave

    eBay tat volume 3.

    Out for a curry tonight, my reputation as a serial car purchaser got me a tip: https://www.gumtree.com/p/rover/rover-sterling-820-been-garaged-and-in-good-condition-for-age-suit-/1350965757 Beige on beige, someone GIB! Edit, now I'm home posting from my PC rather than my phone: the seller is a friend (or possibly relative) of the distant relly by marriage I was out with tonight. I got the impression that they need it gone and cash 4 a quick sale m9 might get it away for a bit less than the asking. Even though the asking seems quite reasonable to me...
  8. Rave

    eBay tat volume 3.

    Gone back a few pages, didn't see this, sorry if already posted. Thinking it might go cheap thanks to the not very descriptive title and the lead pic being of the engine. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-mondeo/352763948660?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D59535%26meid%3D410ef9e5729846eeab1d9d9228a677e4%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D323892666921%26itm%3D352763948660%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
  9. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-UNIVERSAL-STRETCH-SHAFT-CV-JOINT-BOOT-KIT-GAITER-AND-FITTING-CONE/142984430336?epid=2296072094&hash=item214a894300:g:K4YAAOSwAjpbyKKZ
  10. I always torque wrench my wheel nuts/bolts on, only takes a minute extra. Interesting point about the hubs. If you don't grease them the wheels almost certainly will seize on, which can be a real pain in the arse. Had to put the spare on a 3 year old Audi by the side of the road a few weeks ago, we ended up having to use the spare as a mallet to belt the full size wheel to get it off! I tend to put a smear round the flange and leave the face dry, which ought to be an acceptable compromise I think (though admittedly that has been, up till now, out of laziness rather than thinking scientifically about where the forces are transmitted ).
  11. Yes, this. I put a load round the hub flange to stop the wheel seizing on, but never on the bolts. The same goes for other threads where it's important to torque them up correctly. I wondered whether to put some on the threads of my spark plugs when I was swapping them last week, NGK said no. Wouldn't surprise me if using it on head bolts was a no-no etc. etc.
  12. Sadly being tall has nothing to do with the drag co-efficient, as the calculation excludes the frontal area of the vehicle! A Caterham 7 probably has twice the coefficient of drag of an average saloon, but it also has half the frontal area, so a kit car will tend to end up with a similar top speed to the donor vehicle you yanked the engine and box out of, all else being equal. To be fair the narrowness of the Charade probably makes up for its slightly extended height, I doubt its frontal area is any bigger than a Fiesta or similar because it's probably 8" narrower.
  13. Thanks for that BBCM, especially the MPG figures. It does sound as if they're a bit inconsistent; perhaps I just had a headwind on the one occasion I've actually measured the MPG scientifically! I can well believe that being light and tall, wind would make a bigger difference than most cars to how it goes. I just slung the new iridium plugs in, which went fine until I found that I couldn't get the last coil pack on- this turned out to be because the plastic insert in my Halfords Advanced plug socket had come off and got stuck on the plug ceramic. I had to hammer it back in to get it onto the plug flats, which in turn hammered the bottom bit of the insert right over the plug base and severed it, and stuck the rest of it on very firmly. Fortunately I managed to prise it all off without doing any apparent damage to the plug ceramic. The car doesn't start any better than before, as I rather expected. I'm now half wondering whether I should try sending the injectors off for a test and clean in an ASNU machine- apparently this will cost less than 50 quid, and will be quite interesting apart from anything else. I've never taken a fuel rail off or removed an injector before, is it a tricky job? It's certainly not urgent, I need to get on with fixing and selling my various other wrecks now, will turn my attention back to the Charade if I run out of more important jobs, I reckon!
  14. OK thanks, good to know. I'll change the plugs and see about doing the lambda sensors, then I'll just have to be happy that it's running as well as it can.
  15. Petrol engines theoretically get more thermally efficient at wider throttle openings. It works in practice too; the diesel Audi Le Mans cars only used about 10-15% less fuel over the course of a race than the petrol ones, because the petrol ones were WOT for much of the lap. On the flip side, friction losses in the engine increase with the square of the engine speed, so it is true that a larger engined car with higher gear ratios can get surprisingly good fuel efficiency compared to a smaller engined model in the same range even though they're probably not extracting as much energy from the fuel at the point it's burned. Stick the high ratio gearbox on the small engine though, and you should do even better, assuming that it actually has enough torque to do the speed you want in top gear, and you can put up with sluggish acceleration to get there. 5th gear in the Charade is pretty high though, the engine only does about 3200rpm at 70 from memory (and struggles to accelerate and maintain speed up hills as a result). Anyway, theoretical thermodynamics ramblings aside, does anyone know if the EJ-VE engine has a dizzy, or if I can adjust the ignition timing some other way? I'm wondering why the timing information is both in the handbook and on a plate under the bonnet, and hence whether it's worth checking. For the sake of 20 quid I think I'll follow TS's advice and bin the Bosch plugs and get some iridium Densos in there, but Jikovron's report that he got over 60mpg with a v8 in the boot makes me think that mine could definitely do better, and I don't think I'm likely to get a 10%+ improvement from new plugs (though fingers crossed, you never know).
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