Mally

And we're home. Weather here in sunny stockport is gash.
But to round up the car, got here faultless and the MPG figures are in and I've figured out the eco mode.
The gearbox very regularly changes down for hills etc which I suspect is very kind on the engine but not so kind on the MPG. The picture below shows the economy when I held the car manually in 6th for the last 50 miles going up and down the Shap (m62). The 20mpg is from saabnuts drive to my house. I filled it up near Dundee, I've done 360 miles and it's got a quarter of a tank left. Realistically that's not bad for a 3 ton v8 in a rush. Until the last 50 miles I was making progress mainly on back roads as I went via Durham. The car handled it great.
Very happy with it and makes the 3 day excursion worth it.
8th and last car purchase of 2023, I think this will be sticking around for a good while! Thanks for tagging along everyone!

That'll do. Looks like you're in charge now. 
By the way, the gents is blocked. 

Obviously the first thing to do is to ring one of them so that you only have to pay one lot of tax and insurance.

Actually, reason I popped into the Interweb was to share what made me grin this morning.
A forty year itch got scratched this morning courtesy of the child bride (no, not THAT, you bunch of pervs)
THIS
 

Thanks guys, always happy to see people getting some enjoyment out of this madness, and maybe even learn a thing or two.
Well, said madness continued today. As mentioned before, two of the biggest issues the car has right now are the air suspension and vibrations coming from at least one wheel. I decided to tackle both of them yesterday and today.
Lets have a look at the rear suspension first. Diagnosing it when I bought the car showed a rear right sensor error popping up immediately after clearing it.

Ah. The sensor wasn't unplugged but the writing on it clearly indicates that the new sensor is anything but new.

The fact that the casing around the mounting points is splitting probably doesn't help either.

The design of these is no different to most other height sensors, the control module sends 5V and moving the arm results in higher or lower resistance, the resulting output voltage indicates where the arm and therefore suspension is sitting. I tried to measure both resistance and voltage but couldn't really get any sensible readings out of it. Since I already ordered the sensor I just threw it in to see what happens.

Well, the error is still there, however I forgot my diagnostics cable adapter to clear the codes and run the suspension adaptation procedure. I've also forgot that the air suspension had two fuses in the back, one of which I didn't plug back in (I was worried after getting the car that the compressor would just pump the airbags up to crazy heights and pulled it). I only replaced one of the fuses before starting my trip, I probably could have had at least a little more ride height as even without sensors the compressor can still regulate somewhat. I'll see if I can get the suspension reset before I leave, the car is definitely better driving now.
Sorting the wheels today helped as well. Turns out that 2 of the 4 alloys are distorted, one (the one I felt the most) so severely that it boggles my mind that a new tire was put on it in the first place. Oddly enough I cannot remember it being this bad on my way back from purchasing the car and I cannot remember an occasion where it would have gotten damaged this badly.

Well, the 523i had the same alloys so why not make a good set out of the 8 I got? Because it turns out that 3 of the 4 alloys on that were distorted as well! BMWs really love to ruin alloy wheels it seems, low profile tires and relatively firm suspension doesn't help. We took the best of the wheels I brought and balanced a set to what I hope is a noticeable improvement. I haven't had the car on the autobahn yet but it definitely should be now, fingers crossed.

It's this!


Big thanks to @dean36014 for being a pleasure to deal with. Currently at Telford Services about a couple of hours to go.

Not having a temperature gauge on Toyota Yaris . Just a light which indicates cold or HGF. 

That's an impressive headlight. 

Have paid a deposit and should collect over Xmas. Thanks again to @DVee8 for the heads up.

Have paid a deposit and should collect over Xmas. Thanks again to @DVee8 for the heads up.

Have paid a deposit and should collect over Xmas. Thanks again to @DVee8 for the heads up.

Have paid a deposit and should collect over Xmas. Thanks again to @DVee8 for the heads up.

Have paid a deposit and should collect over Xmas. Thanks again to @DVee8 for the heads up.

Have paid a deposit and should collect over Xmas. Thanks again to @DVee8 for the heads up.

Have paid a deposit and should collect over Xmas. Thanks again to @DVee8 for the heads up.

Have paid a deposit and should collect over Xmas. Thanks again to @DVee8 for the heads up.

Have paid a deposit and should collect over Xmas. Thanks again to @DVee8 for the heads up.

Took me a while to get over myself and have a look at this.

I don't really have a conclusive idea as to how this happened, which is worrying me. 
The cause of seperation itself was easily found. The nut was missing completely. How a Nylock nut became loose and unwound without any warning sign is a concern.
Those who know me will hopefully back me up when I say I'm the most fastidious person when it comes to torquing and checking everything I've touched. At first I doubted myself but no, I definitely, without question had this torqued to spec. I've been driving a car when the suspension collapsed before (corrosion) and believe me it's enough motivation to never want it to happen again.
Regardless, I checked this on Friday and again on Saturday afternoon after hearing a (completely unrelated) noise. It was there, and it was done up tight.
Anyway, I have to just get over it and sort the problem and do what I can to make sure it doesn't happen again.
It's easy enough to pop it back together with a jack.

This time round I'm not taking any chances. I drilled the stud and used a castle nut and split pin as per the original factory set up.

Then I put the panels back on.

I'm going to speculate as to what happened. I think using a nylock on the bottom ball joint is unsafe because the design of the suspension means that the ball joint is always being pushed out of the hub rather than into it.  If the very mild taper on the hub hasn't quite bedded in and isn't stopping rotation of the top part of the joint, then steering inputs could probably unwind the nut.  Since it's always under tension as I said, it will keep unwinding the nut as you steer and might not give any warning clunks before it eventually reaches the end of the threads and pops off.
I really think that bottom ball joint should have been supplied with a castle nut and split pin as per the factory setup.

Not a huge amount done recently because:

Latest status update:
Exhaust is now less obnoxious. The downpipe started to blow at the manifold because it had been on and off so much, but that was professionally mended using exhaust paste and foil tape.
Overdrive still not working for some reason. It would activate at lower speeds but drop out on heavy throttle or at higher speeds.
First thing to check was the linkage behind the inspection plate at the solenoid. This can go out of alignment and since I was messing around with the solenoid it was worth a look.

That was checked by sticking a 4.5mm drill bit through the hole in the arm which should align with a hole in the case. Oddly, it was perfect.
Next thing to check is the filter on the other side.
I didn't realise taking that inspection plate off caused the oil to drain, so that got messy.
Anyway, the filter was jammed full of sludge. Cleaned that out with white spirit.

Then refitted and refilled the box with fresh oil. 20/50 engine oil in these temperatures is like treacle so this was a somewhat time consuming job.

Anyway, a test drive was a bit frustrating as the overdrive wouldn't engage at all.
Took it a much longer drive and noticed that it would bang in and out of OD constantly. Then, after around 20 miles it just started to work. And has worked ever since.
I'll take it.

There is a freshness to the air.



I better have a decent breakfast before sorting things.

New alternator arrived, so I can give @320touring his back.

Stuck a 60A fuse in line to the alternator as it just seemed the right thing to do.

The OD problem was caused by the solder joint on the OD solenoid acting like a structural joint. It just gave way.

Simple enough fix there.

To stop this happening again the wire was cable tied to the body of the solenoid so that any tension doesn't get put onto the solder.
Next on the list, an obnoxious exhaust blow that started last time I drove it.

This looked decent when I reassembled the exhaust. Oh well. Out with the welder. Again.

I really, really couldn't be bothered here and the inside of the pipe looks like kerplunk.
The downside is now it's so clean it doesn't want to fit properly in the mid silencer, it's a bit loose. The solution for that was to create a new.. ahem.. exhaust gasket. Out of mig weld.

One last special touch. 
£20 for a throttle linkage bush? Get it round you.
6mm fuel hose.

Have some videos.
Cold start.
Jrive.
 
 

Let's go for a drive.

Finishing off some bits inside.
Rubber trim around the doors in place of the windlace trim. Also the new headlining installed by @MrsJuular

And more of her work in the new door cards.

The front ones have been upgraded with door pockets from a 240. The original stretch pockets seemed a bit useless. These will hold bottles and cans.

The seats are original but they are different from most Amazons I've seen.

Dome light and sun visors.

The dome light didn't work off the driver's side door. This was down the spring inside the switch breaking a bit off, and causing it to no longer make contact.

A few bits of solder added to the gold connection on the right padded it out enough to work again.
Finally, a shot of the fuel and temp gauges actually working. The temp gauge seems rock steady. A worthwhile and cheap upgrade.

I really love the green backlighting on the dash. 

Well here goes.

 
Out of the naughty corner at last.
Some issues.
The fuel filter very quickly looked like this.

And the contents of the float bowls.



Cycled the contents of the tank through a series of filters for around 3 hours using an electric pump.

The next attempt wasn't much better.

Could go through a pallet of filters in no time so I set up a syringe with a bit of hose that I can use to backflush the filters with petrol and refit them.
Have also stuck an uberfilter on. This is a fuel injection filter for a Volvo T5 so it should stop this shit getting into the carbs.

Seems to be working. Here is the contents of the filter flushed twice.

Float bowls are still clean so that's something.
Still plenty of work to do.

The mobile editor on this site is really frustrating..  it insists on you seeing this photo again and it can't be deleted.
 

I am in Glasgow today but can come and help after work.  
Might have a car you can borrow if needed - will just have to stick you on insurance.  
 
Also heading back down to Accrington on Sat - so could give you a lift if none of that works 

"Bro, sick f'n ride man" "Absolutely beautiful color" "Heavy heavy corrosion on the rims, but we tried to get it cleaned up all nice, otherwise its in beautiful shape, tires are solid, but definitely get new lug nuts and whatever you do, don't repaint it!"
Just got back from picking it up, had a lovely time shooting the breeze with the tech who stopped mid helping someone else to talk to me about the car, saying how in awe him and the rest of the techs were and how excited they were to have gotten to work on the car. Told him a bit about it how my dad bought it in 89, dallied it until early 2000s, repainted it around 98/99, and then sat in the garage for the better part of the past 20 years.
On the phone when they told me the car was ready, the tech told me they stripped one of the lug nuts and couldn't reinstall it and recommended a new set altogether, which I was like "yeah im sure these are originals, that's no big deal". Of course, the guy gave me a heart attack in telling me because he said a bit of bad news and I was like oh god, but it was just the one lug nut being stripped and was like oh phew that’s nothing. Fortunately over the summer I had the pleasure* of having to break apart 17 out of 20 of the two piece lug nuts Ford uses on their vehicles on my Escape (Kuga) after they became too swollen and destroyed to be able to be removed with a bit, so I just recently had to do an entire new set of lug nuts on a car. Ironically enough, both cars use the exact same size and style lug nuts, so I know exactly what to look for when I go to Autozone at some point hopefully this week. Otherwise, the tech on the phone and the tech in person when I was picking it up said the car was in great shape otherwise. I still need find some time with my grandfather to get all the fluids swapped and get it in air to do a pretty thorough once over, but for now, that's hopefully another repair out of the way! Obviously gonna keep an eye on it over the next few days/weeks to make sure it absolutely is fixed, but hopefully we should be good now!
 
On an unrelated note, since I mentioned I'd share my travels:
 
      
 
Needed an excuse to take it out for the first time in a few weeks, ran a couple quick errands and did a Drive Up curbside order pickup at Target (for those across the pond, its basically Walmart but a bit more premium)