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Mally

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  1. Thanks
    Mally got a reaction from Bfg in Garage Diary : Sunbeam Motorcycle resto's..   
    Looking at it, I feel the baffle may be too restrictive.
    It's only a gut feeling, I  used to jam old tin cans in mine, which usually blew out again.
    You will soon tell with loss of performance and/or overheating.
    May well be fine. Your engineering expertise easily surpasses mine.
  2. Like
    Mally got a reaction from Dan302 in New car for MIL   
    Ceed SW are good, had one of those on Motability a while back.
  3. Like
    Mally reacted to Bfg in Garage Diary : Sunbeam Motorcycle resto's..   
    . . just a quick update . . .
    I didn't do this on Friday, as it had been a heavy frost and it also happened that I was in a grumpy mood from being woken each morning around 5:15am (to the sound of someone having a pee, directly into the water of the toilet bowl located immediately above the bed-alcove of this studio apartment) ..and thereafter cannot get back to sleep.
    As someone who considers "mornings are wonderful ..but they start too early" - my loosing three hours of sleep every day is a trial.  Anyhows that's not what we are here to discuss, so let's get on with the findings in the sump... 
    Not at all good, but then it could have been far worse. . .
     
    ^ After 443 running-in miles this is what I found.  The dirty colour of the oil reflects the amount of carbon deposit (soot) from the combustion chambers before the piston rings have bedded in (..there's more blow-by than there will be ..once that running-in is complete).  You can see here lumps of metal withing the folds of the paper element filter and also two pieces laying in the bottom (just under the filter). There's also a couple of flakes, one may be seen at the end of the central rib) which look like a flake of varnish or shellak.  
    NB. replacing the original wire-mesh gauze filter with the paper-element is a modification I do to my engines.  All have been done but for Katie which had a new finer gauze fitted. I did however give the bike's new owner the special parts to convert it should he so choose.

    ^ nothing amiss can be seen up inside there.

    ^ in close up this is what I found (..after being rinsed in petrol / laid out on a piece of kitchen paper-towel). 
    The shellak-like flakes I've never seen before ; they're brittle/hard and transparently thin.  First thought was - it must surely be a smear of gasket sealant that's flaked off somewhere.  But where it could have come from is a mystery, particularly as there are no signs of gasket-card fibres nor of cork. They are too large to have gone through any of the oil-ways,  and in any case - I'm really careful not to apply too much gasket sealant ..in avoidance of creating squeezed out beads.  I was using Wellseal  gasket sealant but have recently been trying a similar product in tube form, it's of thicker consistency and from Loctite.  Wellseal doesn't go hard and the tubed stuff is only supposed to go tacky.  Whatever they are must have flaked off a relatively flat almost-shiny surface.  But what and where.?  
    After sleeping on the question, I think I might have an answer : Loctite yes, but not the gasket sealant.   No, I'm thinking it must be the wicking Loctite I used to seal around the leaky cylinder sleeve (as fitted by aforementioned said professional) < here >.  And in the process some of it has run through the crack, and all the way down the outside of the sleeve.  It has then hardened, not in the crack but around the bottom rim of the cylinder liner where it projects just a little into the crankcase.  The engine-running splash of oil from the crankshaft has in effect jet-washed it loose, and it's then been washed into the sump with the returning oil. 
     
    I'm happy with that explanation so let's now look at the metal bits ; they are non-ferrous and judging by their hardness and sheen are more likely to be aluminium than white-metal (from the rear-main bearing).  The almost 4mm long piece is a turn-and-a-half scroll, or thought of another way - like a shaving.  Other pieces of the metal found are also very thin shaving with torn edges.  Again in context of a running engine, it seizing and otherwise vibrating far more that it should, I was bewildered - where on earth have they come from ? 
    If they are indeed white-metal from the rear-main bearing - well., there's nothing there to scrape or shave the metal.   If it were the aluminium of the piston seizing, then.., I've never seen one which has been 'shaved into a scroll '  nor can I envisage how a 4mm length of metal shaving can get passed the piston's skirt and its bottom ring..?  
    There are actually very few moving parts within these engines that are aluminium.  The pistons & con-rods are, but with a chain-driven overhead-camshaft design .. that's about it.  Still, I had two scenarios to consider.,  1. is that moving aluminium parts have scrapes along an edge of steel, or 2. moving steel parts have scraped along the insides of the aluminium cases or a cover.  In time, I considered the fact that I hadn't replaced the cylinder liner myself, and perhaps that the skirt of it is shaped to clear the con-rod as it swings around to 90 degrees ??  The scraping then would be off the side of the aluminium con-rod.  
    Surely not., no I think., the sleeves are flat bottomed and although there may be an inside chamfer, that is ..I'm sure is all the way around, so there's no 'right orientation' to fit the sleeves ..but for the cutouts in their top rim which to clear opened valves.  I would have seen and noted such clearances when I had the engine inverted on the bench. 
    Hang on.. The sleeve fitted to the rear cylinder of this engine was replaced (..by aforementioned said professional) and its dowel hole didn't align  and had to be re-drilled.  Judging by its original dowel location - the sleeve was probably from a front cylinder and so is rotated.  Well perhaps then., those dowels also locate the rotation of the sleeve ..whereby cutout / scallops in its skirt are there to clear the con-rod's throw.?  
    I couldn't think of anything else that might scrape, so I left the matter to be further investigated.  I could do that by visually inspecting up the sump more closely, or perhaps from previous rebuild and assembly photos.  After sleeping on it, or rather waking early and thinking about it - I might now have realised the source of those metal bits.. 
    Aluminium ? yes.  Engine case ?  possibly yes.  From < here > doing this ..after the engine was rebuilt and during installation . . 

    Moments before this photo was taken ; the hole was drilled. Being non-ferrous I couldn't use a magnet to catch any bits, so instead I had layers of sticky gaffer and masking tape with plastic packed-in behind the hole.  Still, at the time, I suspected some bits might find their way into the sump but knowing that I was using a fine oil-filter, which is situated before the pump and/or bearings - I accepted the risk (..rather than dismantling everything) ..baring in mind that this was my own bike's engine and not a customers.
    Drilling and tapping the aluminium case might well have created the scroll like shaving and other particles.  And even if they had been caught in the stickiness of the layers of tape, they might have easily been dropped again just as I pulled that tape out of the timing chain's chimney. 
    Shoddy workmanship on my part, but I think that is the mystery solved. 
    I don't know about the black round ball seen in the photo, either what it is nor where it came from, perhaps it's a bit of shot used to blast this engine's cases that had hidden away in some dark corner until washed out by the engine oil ?  ( NB.. I did extensively jet wash these cases inside and out, and also washed out the cases with petrol, but one cannot be 101% be sure that a piece might have been tucked away withing a rough sand casting).        
    In conclusion, the bits found in the sump and filter are a sad reflection on my skills &/or carelessness in rebuilding this engine.  But my choosing to modify / replace the original gauze oil-filter with a very much finer paper element type has proven its worth. 
    Regarding this engine repeatedly seizing - I'm still assuming it is the end-float against the rear-main bearing being too tight.  In the future I'll use the recommended 0.004" as the very minimum. David Holyoaks - Engineer and experience re-builder of these bikes ..and who once own Stewart Engineering, had advised me that it wasn't critical if a little too tight, but perhaps this engine demonstrates the old adage "if it possibly can go wrong - it will".
     
    Moving on., the sump and magnets was cleaned out, and is back now on again, with a new filter of course.  The oil was a little dirty but I didn't think too bad for the next five hundred miles - when it and the filter will be changed again.. subject of course to no great disaster happening in the meantime.  At least with dirty oil I can see, and therefore address, any oil leaks !

     
    Yesterday, I also changed the engine's leaky front crankshaft oil-seal.   I don't know what happened there, because the dynamo's journal (that the seal works against is fine, and there's no way without being totally ham-fisted I could have damaged it, but still it didn't seal 100%.  It's easy to change, simply by removing the dynamo, prising the old seal out with a couple of screwdrivers and then gently and squarely tapping the new one into place.

    ^ the new NAK replacement seal.  The one previously fitted was a different brand and is much harder ..Perhaps it was old stock and the rubber had gone hard.  Anyway it was consigned to the bin.

    ^ weepy oil dribbling down and being blown back along the engine fins is just a mess which possibly conceals any other places that may also have an oil weep.  Wiped clean so that I can monitor anywhere that doesn't remain dry.  As before, I added a smear of silicon grease to the seal's lips before fitting it. 
    Fortunately the drain hole in the bottom of dynamo's casing had been cleared before I fitted it, and so any oil drained well enough away and no damage was done to the windings or contacts.  However., with mud on the road and the bike being 'garaged' in a farmer's yard that hole was all but blocked again. Good job I checked it now and cleaned it out again. as a flood of oil in the dynamo will cause it to short out.   I used to have a rubber mud flap on the mudguard of this bike.  I can't remember taking it off but there's no sign of it so I guess I must have.  Time again to fit one &/or else a local cover over the dynamo's hole, so it might still drain, but the mud from the front tyre cannot splatter over and block it. 
    Well that's it for yet another day. I have a couple more jobs to do before I ride very far including a recently failed headlamp-dip bulb.  Hey ho., the riding is good. 
    Bidding you a pleasant Sunday.
    Pete.    
     
  4. Like
    Mally reacted to Bfg in Garage Diary : Sunbeam Motorcycle resto's..   
    ^ If I'm not mistaken at one time the Dunlop TT100 tyre was unavailable .. credit where due to Sumitomo, to have maintained old product lines like the TT100 and indeed to have now re-introduced it in two or three guises ; TT100 Classic, TT100 GT, and perhaps another.  Furthermore credit to that tyre's original design engineers who must have got the pattern pretty darn good as the new ones are very much the same but with different rubber composites and construction. 
    I rode 65 miles today and, apart from a brief pause to take a photo, that was non-stop.   The new front tyre behaved just as it should, ie., unnoticed ! That is to say that there was nothing detrimental in its grip, steering or comfort at all, indeed the bike's usual ridge-riding and white-line tracking appear to have gone altogether, and aside from that - the tyre was comfortable and seemingly sure-footed.  
     

    ^ my piccie of the day (again sorry for my camera phone's lack of quality).
    Mostly today I was riding B-class roads at 30 - 45 mph, but at one turning I found myself on the, busy with heavy lorries, A14 dual-carriageway  ..and so i needed to maintain a minimum of 50 - 55mph.  And as it was a steady incline between junctions - I was concerned that the engine would seize again, not least because the hard shoulder was just 2ft wide (most likely really intended for road drainage rather than a panting old Sunbeam motorcycle.  Other sections of today's route included narrow unclassified, with subsidence, country lanes with passing places, pot holes, wet in the shadows, and mulched leaves on corners. 
    I'm pleased to report that, in contrast to Tuesday's record breaking, the engine didn't seize at all today..  Mind you when I got back at 4pm the air temperature was 44 degrees F  / about 6 degrees C.  I'll let you guess what the wind-chill factor was ! ..I don't need to because I felt it first hand.  Indeed I was in quite a cold shaky dither as I put Nudge  away for the night. 
    Keen to get home and into the warmth of the apartment I quickly raised the bike on blocks and pulled the plug out . . .

    ^ Following the very timely prompt from Asimo, and while the oil was hot from the run - I decided to drain it today, in readiness of dropping the sump tomorrow.
    As an aside., the speedo now reads 08569 miles,  and on the 2nd November it was 08152.  So in the past 17 days we've done 417 miles.  I'd only had time to do 26 miles before I moved house - so the total since engine rebuilt is now 443 miles  .. just a little further than driving London to Edinburgh (..or vice versa as a Scotsman might say).
    Bidding you a pleasant and warm evening,
    Pete
  5. Thanks
    Mally got a reaction from Eyersey1234 in New car for MIL   
    Ceed SW are good, had one of those on Motability a while back.
  6. Like
    Mally reacted to juular in Vanshite - stuck in Trafic   
    Water and waste
    While the floor is up it's a good time to be drilling holes for bolts and pipes.
    I initially intended for both the waste and clean water to be stored underneath the van in tanks.  After a bit of research I found that bacteria is a common problem in the water supply of campers, especially when used in a warmer climate. The tank itself can get lined with bacteria, but also the supply and filler lines, connectors etc.  The only solution is to boil any water used for drinking, regularly disinfect the lines and tank or to remove them and clean them manually.  Neither was going to be much fun with an external tank, and so I started turning away from the idea.
    I made the decision that I would use an external waste tank but keep the clean supply inside in a removable container that could be easily cleaned.  This also helped cut a little bit of cost as I wouldn't then have to mess around with a filler neck in the side of the van and building tank mounts.  The downside is that it would take up a bit of internal space.
    For the waste, there is a great space right under the kitchen area next to the offside sill that will hold a waste tank of around 18 litres. There are premade 20L Vivaro/Trafic plastic tanks for this area but you are talking hundreds of pounds plus £30-£50 postage.  You'll have noted the common theme in this thread - prebuilt stuff is very expensive and I'm a cheap bastard. I will be making the waste tank myself for a tiny fraction of that cost - less than the postage.
    Roughly a fiver's worth of steel.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Finished and primed

     
    Leak testing

     
    Checked for fit, with a drain pipe and valve tested for clearance.

     
    Paint.

     
    I'm using household solvent weld tank fittings for which cost is measured in pennies. A bit of solar panel sikaflex was also pushed around the fittings for good measure.

     
    Drain fitting through the floor, sikaflexed in.

     
    I made up a pair of support brackets for the drain pipe and valve.

     
    I only needed one.

     

     
    Finished result

     

     
    With that being the last hole needing made, the new flooring went in.

     
    I left the bolt holes for the tank exposed, just in case it needed dropped at any point.

     
    Here you can see the gas dropout as well.

     
    The fresh water tank will come much later in the build.
  7. Like
    Mally reacted to juular in Vanshite - stuck in Trafic   
    Power :  Part 2 of 2
    Since I was occasionally planning a trip to warmer parts of the world I thought solar power would be a good idea. This is one area where I tried not to be too tight fisted.
    I went for an 80W semi flexible panel in a kit with a MPPT controler. These have a an advantage over cheaper PWM controllers on dull days so I thought it would be worth the extra. With the 80W panel dimensions I have space for a second panel on the roof if I ever decide I need it, whereas I couldn't fit two 120W ones on if you catch my drift.
    First step was to give the roof a good clean, which I'd never done before so it was a bit of a shock scraping off all that green crap!
    I marked out the space.

     

     
    I decided to sikaflex the panel on rather than bolt through the roof. Partly to avoid future leakage, but also because lazy.

     
    Plop

     
    Next up is to make a hole for the cable grommet.

     

     

    Cables fed through.

     
    Had to take a bit of the ceiling away temporarily.

     
    The cables come through just behind the driver's seat, which is where I'd planned to fit the fuse box anyway.

     
    Junction box glued on. In retrospect I should have put on a lower profile one or at least painted this silver. Meh.

     
    A quick test.  On a sunny mid-morning in Scotland with the battery already at full charge, I'm led to believe 1.9 amps is quite good.

     
    I've since seen up to 4 amps on a low battery and a high sun, which is really pretty good.  I also recently found out that the split charge relay is dual sensing, and so the solar panel will charge both the leisure battery and the starter battery should there be spare electrical faeries without a job to do.
    Next : water
  8. Like
    Mally reacted to juular in Vanshite - stuck in Trafic   
    Power - Part 1 of 2
    The 100Ah leisure battery arrived. The battery was being slung underneath the van for a number of reasons. Safety - batteries give off hydrogen fumes whilst charging, not to mention are a particularly large weight to be coming at you from behind should they break free in an accident.  It would also free up a lot of space not having the battery and associated gubbins kept inside. Finally it would save on cable runs, as the only place I could fit it inside the van would be right at the back under the bed. I don't fancy sleeping with my head over a big battery.
    Underfloor battery mounts are again one of those things that are surprisingly difficult to buy in the UK, and if sourced from the US - incredibly expensive. We're talking in the region of £500 for the size that I need. Fortunately I had some angle iron and a plan.

     
    Yes this bit of wood goes on fire a lot. It's sacrificial.

     

     

    Welded both sides to be 100% sure.

     

     

     

     
    The battery is held down at its base by stops inside the frame, and then held in place by a bolt that tightens a plate into the ridges on the battery.

     
    Despite being a van, there's not a lot of free space under a Trafic that's of much use. There's cable looms, fuel lines, brake lines, spare wheel and a 90 litre fuel tank under there that takes up most of the underside.  The starter battery is also slung under there in a gigantic box.
    There's really only one spare location where it will fit; under the passenger seat floor right next to the starter battery.
    There is a big grommet in the way, but we can deal with that.

     

     
    At this point while I still had room I attached the negative cable to the chassis, and the positive (blue) one through a rubber grommet into the van.

     
    Stripped the mill scale and gave it a coat of Bilt Hamber's finest.

     
    Plenty of good quality bolts with nyloc nuts, just to be safe.

     
    At this point before fitting the battery I installed the Altec 140A split charge VSR relay.  This relay automatically closes and makes a connection between the starter and leisure battery at somewhere above 13 Volts, ie: when the alternator is supplying charge. That way, the engine keeps the leisure battery charged, but the connection is dropped when the engine is off so that the starter battery is not drained.
    I installed the relay into the starter's battery box. From there it's a short hop to the leisure battery, which then supplies the living area with power.

     
    It's not a great photo, but the VSR is the box in the top middle there.  It then feeds into a breaker switch to the right of it. Both batteries are fused at their positive terminals by 100A link fuses in waterproof holders.
    The breaker switch is utter shite and kept cutting power without actually tripping. It would actually break the connection if you sneezed near it. It was soon replaced with a fixed inline fuse. When I dissected the breaker switch, I realised that inside the terminals were loose and had been arcing in several places. I should have read the reviews, it's not the first one I've since dumped from the build. Total shite.
    At the leisure battery end, the VSR is connected to the positive terminal via a quick release clamp. The reason I chose this is that it's completely insulated so there's a far reduced chance of any nasty things happening up there.

     
    Easy does it.

     

     
    It's solid. I've kicked it, shook it, taken it down some of the worst roads imaginable. I asked the MOT guy to give it his worst. It's not going anywhere.
    Next up : Solar Power
  9. Like
    Mally reacted to juular in Vanshite - stuck in Trafic   
    Initial woodworking
    Since I now had fixed measurements I could order timber and parts and make things.
    I started by creating a worktop. Instead of buying a premade timber board or a kitchen worktop I thought I'd try my luck at edge-gluing strips of timber. It seemed to make more sense than starting with a full board and chopping most of it away to fit the hob and sink into.


    The hob and sink arrived. Fitting was a challenge as no instructions or template was supplied, so I flipped it over and drew round it.

    The surface needs cut with a router halfway through so that the metal fits, but the screws have material to bite into.

    Lots of swearing and angry words got it flush.


     

     
    A lid for the gas box made in the same manner.

     
    Test fit in place.

     
    I'd also started a shite paint lab in my shed, trying to find the colours and finishes I wanted. This took me ages and it soon occured to me how difficult it can be to make pine look less, well, pine-y. With the majority of stains it has a tendency to just go a bit stripy, a bit orange, pink or some other random variations in-between.

     
    With the worktop height finalised I scribed and cut some finishing trim to cover the ugly remnants of the bulkhead.

     

     

     
    I tested out a concoction that darkened and aged the wood and finished up with a sort of mild rosewood / dark walnut colour that I was quite happy with.  I bought some simple brass screw caps that covered the ugly self tappers that held it all in place. Will probably have to restain the roof to match.

     

     
    I then celebrated by ripping everything out of the van!

     
    Next job while the floor is out - welding some more things.
  10. Like
    Mally got a reaction from Eyersey1234 in New car for MIL   
    !0 years NCB they gave me, and use of the car from 8  Dec to 4th Jan because Xmas/N Year.
    I think normally you get to keep it for a fortnight.
    There may be some good condition cash to come back if the cars good, £300 iirc.
    I'd paid £600 for a factory fitted towbar. Because I'd only used it 2 years they gave me £200 on that as well.
  11. Like
    Mally got a reaction from Eyersey1234 in New car for MIL   
    If your  MIL was a named driver on the Motability car, the insurers will, if asked, give her proof of NCB as a named driver providing no accidents of course.
    This is acceptable by many insurers when she insures in her own right.
    I found Motability very good to deal with at such a time.
  12. Like
    Mally got a reaction from eddyramrod in New car for MIL   
    If your  MIL was a named driver on the Motability car, the insurers will, if asked, give her proof of NCB as a named driver providing no accidents of course.
    This is acceptable by many insurers when she insures in her own right.
    I found Motability very good to deal with at such a time.
  13. Like
    Mally got a reaction from gm in gm's unhealthy obsession with mx5s - fuel pump fixed and a teaser video :)   
    I think the back mudguards are fine.
     The front's were good enough for my Dutton and Robin Hood, which says very little, but we even had a Dax Rush with those on.
  14. Like
    Mally reacted to TripleRich in 1975 Ford Granada Coupe - 1222 hours of work - Engine is in the car!   
    Continued doing various small jobs all over the place.  The seats now have the plastic side trims fitted.  These are usually broken to some extent but luckily I had some spare ones and made an almost perfect set.
     
    The engine is now ready to start.  Everything is fitted/connected and I've filled it with coolant and oil.  I've also put some ATF in the power steering and will top that off once its running.  The gearbox is ready to go back in so a few more hours and I should be ready to turn that key.
    The oil is Millers 10w40 which is the recommended grade for these engines.
    Coolant is Comma 50/50 premix - The water here is liquid rock so some premixed stuff will do a much better job than a rad full of limescale. 
    I've used waterless coolant several times in the past and I'm personally not convinced after trying it in several different restored cars/vans.  Everything I've poured it in runs hotter because the waterless coolant is so thick.  From my experience you need extra coolant capacity over standard if you wish to run waterless coolants.

    A square post battery is in the post and that should complete the look inside the engine bay.  I've lots of little jobs and details to fuss over but it only makes sense to do that once its proven it can run and drive.
  15. Like
    Mally got a reaction from Jerzy Woking in What makes you grin? Antidote to grumpy thread   
    Just cut short a Spanish holiday, returned 2 weeks early. Left my December return fight running in case of mishap.
    Ryanair have moved the December fight, which I no longer need, and offered a refund!
  16. Like
    Mally reacted to PhilA in 1951 Pontiac Chieftain - Troubleshooting gearbox   
    First buzz down, 120 grit.

    Got it to here, bashed the dents out.

    220 grit to here

    First coat of black.
     
    Phil
     
  17. Like
    Mally reacted to Zelandeth in 1951 Pontiac Chieftain - Troubleshooting gearbox   
    Keep it up Phil.  You'll get the thing licked eventually then it'll hopefully give you years of trouble free service.
    Refreshing to see someone who's not afraid of taking an auto box apart (well, kinda...but it's near as dammit an automatic from a mechanical perspective).  Can't see me trying the same sort of "I'll just take that apart and clean it..." approach on the GM400 in the Jag!  Admittedly the fact I'd need to probably dismantle the car down to it's individual atoms first may have a lot to do with that.
  18. Haha
    Mally reacted to chaseracer in Six Cylinders Motoring Notes - WANTED Driver's seatbelt for our Citroen XM   
    OK, all the individual words are familiar, but... 🤔😉
  19. Like
    Mally got a reaction from Floatylight in A midlife crisis "What would you do?" Thread   
    It's Scotland, might rain.
    Get a sports car with a  good heater and massive boot.
    Or hire an expensive campervan with all mod cons.
  20. Like
    Mally got a reaction from steveo3002 in What makes you grin? Antidote to grumpy thread   
    Just cut short a Spanish holiday, returned 2 weeks early. Left my December return fight running in case of mishap.
    Ryanair have moved the December fight, which I no longer need, and offered a refund!
  21. Like
    Mally got a reaction from Shite Ron in What makes you grin? Antidote to grumpy thread   
    Just cut short a Spanish holiday, returned 2 weeks early. Left my December return fight running in case of mishap.
    Ryanair have moved the December fight, which I no longer need, and offered a refund!
  22. Like
    Mally got a reaction from juular in Vanshite - stuck in Trafic   
    I did ours with similar carpet. stuck the carpet direct to the bubble wrap.
    I laid the carpet on a privet hedge to spray the glue, Looked like an Xmas tree when I'd finished spraying.
    Trimmed the hedge later.......glue all gone.
  23. Like
    Mally reacted to juular in Vanshite - stuck in Trafic   
    Carpet

    I didn't take pictures of the work in progress because the spray glue is like silly string and gets on everything, plus it was a three handed job keeping the carpet held up while trying to align and stretch it. I did the whole offside in one bit of carpet so it was pretty awkward.
    It's a really satisfying job though. The carpet has a lot of stretch and it's quite easy to get a good finish. The knack is to start from the centre of where you're working and push outwards, stretching it into every contour with the handle of a small screwdriver.


    I lifted the rubber trims and carpeted under them.

     

     
    Then onto the back and side doors. As before, a layer of bitumen, then insulation, bubble wrap, ply and carpet.

     

     

     

     
    Fittings removed from back doors before carpeting.

     

     
    Back doors were shut and a line drawn around the inside of the seal for trimming.

     

     
    The trimmed end of the carpet was a bit ugly, so it was hidden in rubber U-channel which also gives a better seal when the doors are closed.

     

     

     
    The best thing about all this is that the doors now shut like a vault, with a proper satisfying thunk.  Before this they were a bit vanny and a bit clangy.
  24. Like
    Mally reacted to juular in Vanshite - stuck in Trafic   
    The upshot of the whole #vanlife thing with cute couples quitting the rat race and posing on top of their vans watching sunsets is that everyone wants to make a conversion, which is great. Except that now anyone flogging overpriced tat on eBay can add 'camper' to the keywords and sell it for three times as much. Bubble wrap? Camper insulation! 12v pc case fan? Camper ventilation!
    I'm not rich, I can't really afford to buy £400 of laminated ply to make some cupboards or blow a grand on a rock and roll bed. Even simple things like water tanks, battery boxes etc seem to be massively overinflated. When you add it all up it's a massive industry of making money from very little and you can very easily barf £10k- £15k on a small van like this. That figure would keep me up at night.
    From the beginning I vowed to make pretty much everything I could from scratch. At the same time I'm aiming to stay away from the whole rustic look, union flag bunting and furniture made from rotten old pallets. 
    Budget wise I didn't really want to break a couple of grand absolute tops.
    Here is what I started with. 

    I found a pair of tinted sliding windows online for not too much. I like privacy but one thing I learned is how hot a van gets in the sun and you need airflow.
    I didn't take enough photos of this part as to be frank I was shitting myself. It's pretty straightforward though. Cut hole using Jigsaw. Sticky stuff goes on van. Primer goes on window. Stick the windows on and pray. It's a noisy and messy job but doing one side makes the other easier.



    Mrs J put some cheap Chinese parking sensors in while I was doing that. They're totally fine.

    The bulkhead then got taken out. It's just a few bolts and then a hammer and chisel to smack the rivets out.


    Mrs helped chop up the ply lining while it was out. The window hole needed cut out but I also wanted the lining to fit flush into the gaps.



    Meanwhile I took the floor out and filled and tidied up all the screw holes.

    The lower parts of the voids were painted just as an extra bit of protection against condensation.

    I used bitumen flashing tape as an anti drumming layer. Bought in bulk off Amazon, a couple of large rolls did the whole van and was cheaper than one small roll at Screwfix.

    It's really good stuff this and way cheaper than the car specific stuff that comes in sheets. After adding it the whole van is noticeably quieter and the panels thud rather than clang.
    Meanwhile I was still using the van every day for work.. it's pretty good on diesel.

  25. Haha
    Mally reacted to yes oui si in Vanshite - stuck in Trafic   
    Did your Mrs manage to get any photos of Uranus?
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