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Anthony

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About Anthony

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    Rank: Austin Maxi

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  1. If the Citroen one is still available then I'd like it please. I'll drop you a PM now
  2. Anthony

    Coolant woes

    Bit harsh - mistakes happen, but it sounds like the garage has put it right at no cost and without putting up too much of a fight.
  3. Crikey, that sounds cracking value compared to similar down South!
  4. Remove one (not both!) droplink and go for a drive, if the noise disappears then it is likely a droplink that's failed. Cheap droplinks often don't last very long. Be careful with any "enthusiastic" cornering with the droplink removed (and ARB effectively disabled) though as you will get some comedy lean angles....
  5. Test fit the wheels first - from memory, 307 wheels share the same offset as 206's which is wrong for a 205 and will sit too far inwards, fouling the rear trailing arm on the back and possibly the strut on the front.
  6. The man from the Ministry says yes to another 12 months ticket That's three clean 1st time passes in a row now - none too shabby for an French tin can that's nearing 30 years old
  7. But you still get penalised for a no-fault claim.
  8. To be honest, most alarm and immobiliser issues I've seen have been down to the quality (or rather lack of) of the installation - I've seen some truly shocking so called "professional" installations. Immobilisers themselves are normally fairly reliable as there's not a great deal to go wrong - alarms are more likely to be problematic as they age as sensors and siren batteries begin to give issues.
  9. That's the dim-dip resistor - with the engine running and side-lights on, the headlight bulbs should illuminate dimly. It's meant to be clipped on to the N/S headlight panel, but the clips have usually rusted away and it's left swinging in the breeze. Pipe clip works well as a replacement, but the resistor can be removed with no ill-effect. The lack of oil pressure and STOP light will likely either be the oil pressure switch on the front of the block or more likely the connection/wiring for it. Short the wiring to the block (ground) and the lights should illuminate if all is well with the wiring and bulbs.
  10. I've had the reverse happen this year. My 205 has been insured as a classic for a few years now, and whilst I've swapped brokers in that time, has been with the same underwriter for at least the last three years. This year it appears to have earned 1 years NCB for reasons I can't quite fathom...
  11. Fair enough, certainly nothing is insurmountable and using a known quantity as a donor has merit. Worse case, the bare engine is pretty much the same, it's just the bolt on parts and wiring/ECU that differs so a dead/breaker 306 could yield the required parts cheaply enough.
  12. You'd be much better starting with a 306 HDi as a donor if you can - the 307 is going to add a huge amount of headaches with multiplex management, engine that's mounted at a different angle etc. HDi conversion using a 306 as a donor should be pretty straight forward really - most of the wiring and plumbing is the same principle to a 306 GTi-6 conversion for example. I've considered doing the swap myself in the past when I had an 205 GTi needing an engine and an 306 HDi that was shortly going to the bridge, but decided against it. 307 front brakes will bolt straight onto your 205, although probably won't fit under those wheels - most of them need 15" minimum. They're massively overkill for a 205 though IME.
  13. Looking miles better - genuinely impressed at how well that carpet came out, as it looked pretty grim in the photos Remember that the ZX 16v had a different rear arch profile - I know that on my old ZX Volcane it was marginal with 195/50R15 tyres and would occasionally catch on the outer lip on the rear. Was fine on the front through. You get the same issue on 205's - GTi shells have a much more accommodating rear arch profile and allow you to run wheel/tyre combinations that would rub badly on base model shells.
  14. The wheels themselves will physically bolt on and should be the correct offset if they're 406 ones (later 206/307 ones are wrong though). The tyre profile (195/65R15 on a 406 isn't it?) will be too tall though and I suspect will foul the rear arch.
  15. Assuming it's the box on the right of the photo you've used, then that's a BE1 gearbox and will be lift-up reverse next to first. Worth noting that the clutch release bearing is slightly different fitment to BE3 as well. Easy enough swapping the diff over on a BE gearbox - basically 3 bolts to remove the speedo drive housing, 8 bolts to remove the diff cover, and then swap the crownwheels. Be warned that the crownwheel bolts have a habit of stripping the threads on the bolts though.
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