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drewd

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About drewd

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    Rank: Austin Maxi

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  1. I've always had a rough idea on what my cars MPG figures are as I find it helps budgeting and it's a good indicator if there are any underlying engine problems. I've never gone as far as keeping a spreadsheet but I do reset the trip each time I fill up and I pretty much always brim the tank. This allows me to do a quick: litres/4.55 = gallons. Trip mileage / gallons = MPG calculation. I can also see how many miles I'm getting to a tank and therefore plan ahead so I'm not likely to need to fill up partway through a long journey and pay over the odds for fuel at a motorway services. In term
  2. Ball joints are often a pain in the arse in my experience. They either pop out with a quick tap or two from a persuader or they take hours to remove using a combination of releasing fluid, bars, hammering and heat. It's a cool car though, it'll be worth it when it's done.
  3. I saw this in the tin on Saturday, it's actually quite a cool little thing for what it is. Tombstone seats and a C pillar mounted telescopic aerial to show the world you've made it in life. What more could you possibly want from a car?
  4. I'd do the belt and as Dave mentioned ensure new stretch bolts are used on the engine mount. I've seen what happens when the bolts aren't replaced and they fail, it's not pretty. I know nothing is guaranteed but there's a load of service history with this car to show it's been cared for and as you say it drives well. These engines can do 300k plus miles so it might well survive another 80k miles with regular servicing.
  5. I've considered this occasionally too. With more modern cars having side impact air bags etc in the seats or body I'd expect it to be time consming and costly to replace them all. I don't really hang on to cars long enough to justify spending four figure sums on them, so I try and stay on top of servicing and ensure brakes, tyres, suspension and steering components are all good and hope that unseen safety features like airbags etc work should I ever need them.
  6. I don't recall it being slow when I had it, but I didn't really do many short journeys, just the 18 mile each way commute or 150-200 mile each way jaunts to visit family. That said, it's quite high mileage now so it may be showing signs of age. Or the earth may just need cleaning up? My mate had an identical Bora and his starter motor failed about 3 years ago. I helped him to replace it and it wasn't too bad. No need to support the engine etc as per earlier golfs but I do recall having to remove the battery and battery tray to get access to it.
  7. Yeah I had to remove the bumper too. There's a foam block on the inside of the wing at the top of the wheel arch which I suspect was fitted as sound deadening. When I took the original panel off it appeared that the foam had retained water and trapped it against the lip of the arch, causing it to rot out. There was around an inch of rotten metal from the edge of the arch up, and some paint bubbling up even further than that. I agree that the genuine panel was much heavier suggesting it was a better panel when new, but by 14 years old it had had it. I remember thinking if they'd just made
  8. When I bought it off Jamiechod last September I paid extra for the brand new wing Jamie had ordered for it as the original was crispier than an 80s Ford. I think it was the driver's side. It's a repo panel but the fit isn't too bad and it was pre painted in the correct colour. I believe it had the discs and pads in the boot too when I bought it. You're right about it having excellent history, that's what interested me in it. I changed the oil with Quantum oil and a Mann filter too when I got it in September. I can't remember if I changed the air filter, I usually do change them. If I did
  9. I know very little about the engines in the 406 but the symptoms sound similar to a dodgy MAF sensor. Have you tried unplugging and taking it for a quick drive it to see if it makes any difference? It might not, but it's quick and free.
  10. From my personal experience I'd echo the above, any car that's not dull encourages you to drive it a bit harder, and economy suffers. To consistently achieve near the top end of the quoted MPG you need to drive smoothly and conservatively which for me at least always feels dull. I don't drive quickly but I do enjoy the driving experience on B roads as they're more engaging. For me that's where good cars shine but it's not ideal for maximum economy. Sitting at 60mph in top gear will help with economy but it's hardly fun. The last 4 cars I've owned were a gen 7 Celica 1.8, a K11 Micra, a 1.
  11. Terrible news. Condolences to the family.
  12. I think it looks a bit better, I couldn't see anything through it when I was following you on Sunday. I've got some Mag's Plastic X polish that works well on headlights. I'll bring it over whenever I'm down next if you want to try it. No idea how effective it will be though.
  13. On a purely disc braked setup the backing plate is just a splash guard, but as this is a disc/drum combination it's the backing plate for the drum brake components. I never took mine apart so I'm not sure if the brake shoes mount to it, but there were a fair few people on the Facebook owners group that had their cars fail MOTs due to the backing plates having holes in them. I'd expect any rusty holes would allow dirt and moisture into the drum too.
  14. On the subject of the rear brake disc/drum setup on this, if your backing plates are solid clean them up and paint them. They are often rotten, and required as part of the braking assembly. They're also expensive. Something like £150 each +VAT and a dealer only part I'm told.
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