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Isaac Hunt

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  1. You might find that compression on No1 improves a bit with some running. If a valve on No1 has been sat in the open position, some corrosion might be stopping it seating well. A bit of slamming shut and heat through it might improve things.
  2. Thanks for that. i was aware of the local registration offices and the regional identifiers, such as WL (as in 88CWL) together with FC, UD being Oxford issue, but didn’t realise you could view the records. Presumably this requires a personal visit as opposed to online viewing. I have a few 1958 to 1964 registrations and your post got me thinking it would be interesting (although not really useful) to identify what vehicles they were originally assigned too.
  3. Love the anti rattle tip for the boot catch. Love the wiper arm lift devices for the repaint. Your Garage man, Kinell that’s smart. The only thing I would do differently is go for deeper skirting. Very methodical work through the oil leak issue and subsequent ‘burn off’. £40 quid for a Rocket Box Gasket, I remember the days when a Mini RB gasket was 99p. Although the were cork as opposed to some moulded fancy rubber job. i couldn’t live with your Matt repair though. Very good thinking, but the mere sight of a one of those coach head bolts anywhere near a car has me gagging like a good lateral flow swabbing and reaching for the paper bag.
  4. I had the centre core come out of spark plug once when removing a plug. It was recessed in a Dolly Sprint engine. It left the thread in the head. I managed to get the thread out with an eezi out on the end of a socket, considered my luck was in that day.
  5. Thread damage did enter my thoughts, although there was no sign of any alloy on the plug threads. It nipped up ok so all we can do is to keep an eye on it. Test drive was fine, no misfire under load or through the Rev range
  6. My Daughter left her Fester 2.0 with me for the weekend for a bit of brake work. Before I moved it off the road and onto the drive, I checked the oil for her, all good, she does check it and top up regularly, 150k miles, uses a bit thee days, TADTS. Started it up, fires up ok but I could hear this knocking, that’s not right. it sounded quite dull, but not big end type rattle, more top end, but not cam type rattle, seemed to be coming from clutch end No4. Mmmmm, sounds a bit plug blow by I thought. So off with the air box, mmmm, why is No1 plug lead not in the recess like 2,3,4. Kinell, No1 plug has almost wound itself out. It was caked in soot. I cleaned it up, put it back in. It nipped up OK and the knocking had gone. Never had this happen before, although rather ashamedly, i’ve never touched the plugs in this, so they’ve been in for at least 60k. I’ve sort of got used to these ‘whatever tipped’ plugs running big change mileages and whilst oil and filter gets done regularly, spark plugs sort of got overlooked. I don’t know how many threads it was hanging in by, but there was no misfire or hesitation. The noise was travelling, appeared to be coming from No4 end, but No1 was the issue. Noise had only been there for the last two days apparently. I don’t know how many threads we were away from the plug being blown out off its socket, but pretty close judging by how proud the HT lead was.
  7. Has the bolt snapped of flush or is there a small amount protruding. I’ve seen a nut puddle welded onto the remaining stud do the trick. The heat of the welding helps with the stuckedness. You do need access to a MIG or someone with a MIG
  8. I’d go at 600 grade with plenty of wd40 wrapped round said piece of glass, that is how I did mine. Checked it with a straight edge and used an elastomer gasket. Grind the tip of the stretch bolts so they don’t bottom out. It is a bit nerve racking when you do them up (using the old stretch bolts) because you don’t know how many times they have been run again. Ours has been fine for 50k miles. I used an elastomer gasket, new inlet manifold gasket and a new exhaust manifold gasket, that was it. A proper £30 quid fix it was
  9. Looks even better now and it was nice before. Some proper period repairs there, although I would imagine with less filler and more metal. good find on that bodyshop, I am sure many would have quoted silly money for a job like that. get plenty of waxoyl up behind those wing repairs
  10. Get your baseball cap on back to front. Hold the steering wheel with your right hand at the 10 to 10 position and hang over the handbrake with your upper body, you’ll fit right in.
  11. Look at the lawn “The lawn of Grimsthorpe Castle awaits the star cars of the Concours de l’Ordinaire” and when the grounds man finds out a hundred shitters have dumped oil all over his posh lawn he’ll be proper pissed
  12. I’vd had the odd steak that has come close. Volvo looks great, looks brand new
  13. Garage i’ve been using for years has s concrete pit. Never ever seen water in it, low water table. Once I was in there and it was damp inside. I said, your pit started the leak with all the rain we ‘ve had, nah came the reply and he pointed to a radiator propped up against the wall, it had popped whilst the car was over the pit. It nearly soaked me he said, but I was checking the rear of the vehicle when it just went pop and gushed coolant into the pit. He said, he’ll of a coolant capacity cos it was like Niagara Falls
  14. I rebuilt an old Triumph, new panels, new gearbox, loads of work. One handbrake cable was seized, so I replaced it. On the MOT test, the tester yanked the handbrake on for the test and the other handbrake cable snapped. Car would have passed had it not of been for the cable.
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