SiC

What is this?

 
Proper old fashioned, quality metal working tools!

 
Massive thanks!

What is this?

 
Proper old fashioned, quality metal working tools!

 
Massive thanks!

Agree.
There is the theory that using super unleaded keeps the piston rings from getting gunged up.
There was a contributer on the Avensis section of Toyota owners forum who had successfully reduced volume of oil burnt using super unleaded. Stopped using super and oil consumption rose. Went back to super and oil consumption reduced again.
So, maybe maybe not.
Otherwise, some owners add a little (0.5L or so from memory) over maximum on the dipstick which apparently is what Toyota suggested. More oil equals lower temperature so less burning, apparently.
Have a look at Toyota Owners club forum for more.

What is this?

 
Proper old fashioned, quality metal working tools!

 
Massive thanks!

Barums are a Czech tyre that is part owned by Pirelli.

I use a Disklok too based on the difficulty Station had removing from his wheel. However I do believe he said there was a flaw in it that would make it easier to remove.
 
I guess the other thing would be to sink in a ground anchor and chain it to the floor. Would have to be obvious though, otherwise it might end up ruining the car if someone tried pulling it away. Also doesn't stop someone nicking the doors.

What is this?

 
Proper old fashioned, quality metal working tools!

 
Massive thanks!

Yeah I knew the heat shields would very likely be abestos. When I took the carbs off, I wore a mask, gloves and didn't touch the stuff on the back. My theory was that there is a big engine fan on the front, so any loose fibres would have blown away long ago.
 
Here is by the seat belt mount.

 
Under a bit of foam under carpet near the back seat.

 
And I found this by the front foot well.

 
Eek! First proper bit of grot I've seen on here. My magnet stuck to it so at least it's metal.

 
Got worried at this stage, so pulled more trim up to have a better look.


 
So looks like someone has been here before and done a welding job. I guess it's not too bad? Hitting it with the back end of a screwdriver seems to show it's fully solid.

More stuff happened tonight.
 
Really not much to report about taking the tank out.

 
8 bolts - all reasonably easy to remove curtosy of my impact driver. That tool is really not designed for driving sockets (I think) but it does a great job of doing so. Only 110Nm max and so less likely to snap the bolts off compared to an impact wrench. The impact function helps loosen stuff too.
 
I hoped to remove the short fuel pipe that goes from the tank to a Flexi but the fitting on the tank is pretty much stuck solid. The pipe is very crusty and I think will have to be replaced. I'll probably cut the pipe right down and I can then get a decent impact socket on there and some force on it.
 
Anyway those bolts, cut pipe and undo sender wire. Tank out.

 
Actually in extremely good condition. The brown you see is actually dirt, not rust. I think a good clean down and a paint will bring it right back up. I was very worried that I might have to get it professionally refurbished, however I think it's in by far good enough condition to not need it. Top is in great condition, worst bit is the bottom. However Vulg put fuel in it, so the bottom must not be leaking.
 
Even looking inside through the filler it looks reasonable.

 
Now thanks to a certain MP, upskirting isn't illegal yet. So I can show you the state of the boot above the tank.
 



 
No rust!!
 
Nothing around the front of the tank either. Subframe itself has some surface rust but it does seem solid. I'm really going to have to remove it at some point for a proper paint to protect it.
 

 
Nearside hydrolastic pipe was pinched between the subframe and boot floor. I pulled this free. Luckily it doesn't seem permanently damaged. Hydro pipes are aged but currently seem usable. Another thing less to worry about thankfully.
 


 
Now time to show you some ugly bits.
 
Nearside rear subframe, front mount appears strong from what I can see. Messy but solid from my non expert eye.
 





 
Lets have a look at a proper bad bit. Front offside mount this time.

 
Looking in that hole.

 
At the mount location itself (slightly to the right of the hole). These two bits have split apart. Going to need cleaning back and finding how much good steel is left.

 
We can't end on that mess, so let's look down towards the front of the car.
 

 
Lack of daylight made for a bad photo, so I bumped up the brightness and over saturated it to try and make it clearer. Looking down here perked me up a lot. Maybe not totally clear from that photo, but apart from the sills, drivers floor, driver floor subframe mount, 2 rear subframe mounts and wheel arches there isn't much more structurally concerning rust. Cosmetically there is the offside rear wheel arch, bottom of both back wings, that new dashboard hole and the front bulkhead that needs patching up.
 
Sounds a lot but most of it seems like it can be patched perfectly fine. I was considering removing the entire floor on each side, but it looks in great condition generally.
 
This week's list is slowly getting there now. The big two jobs are done now. Just fiddly small jobs.

 
Then to start the big weldathon.

Finally got on with replacing the drivers seat foam. Only 6 months since I bought the replacement foam! This is something I should have done ages ago and when I got the car. The foam is very flat and the back is so worn out, the metal bars press into my back. This gives me bad back pain and really puts me off driving it.
 
It came out easy enough. All 4 bolts were not siezed or rusty.
 


 
Proper bodging going on here. You think if someone went to the effort of doing this, they'd actually do it properly. Replacement foam isn't even that expensive.

 
I can't remember (or find) who said it (I think Busmansholiday?), but it was mentioned about checking under the carpet to see the floor condition.
 
Unfortantly the floor still contains the factory (well I guess it is) lining. Not sure what it is, but it's thick and I assume it's for sound deadening. Doesn't feel like rubber and certainly doesn't flex very well. Maybe it's lead?
 
There is a section in the middle that looks like it has been replaced at some point. It looks around the main chassis cross rail and I would hazard a guess thats had some minor welding at some point?

 
So I'm guessing you really want to see under it?
 
I couldn't resist either!

 
Looks absolutely fine to me. I guess that black stuff is seam sealer after some minor welding work?
 
Now at the stage where all the foam and fabric is off. Fabric is going to need a bit of sowing work to prolong its life. I'm trusting that to Mrs SiC, who is way better with a needle and thread than I am. I have been tempted to change the covers as I'm not a massive fan of them. However it felt wrong to as they're obviously original and in very good condition otherwise.
 
The base foam wasn't too terrible. Very few and no squidge but not disintegrated. Back foam was completely had it.

 
No wonder it hurt my back and the metal bar pressed in!

 
Spent the rest of the evening cleaning off the old adhesive from the frame. I'll probably give it a quick lick of paint to stop any exposed bits from rusting away and last longer. I forgot to take pictures of the bare frame, but it's in very good condition.

Not much has happened with this, this month. I was hoping to get it MOT'd and checked out by a local garage. Unfortunately the gift that keeps on giving (TT) has sucked my wallet dry instead. It's now MOT exempt so I technically start driving it again.
 
One thing that has been bugging me since I've bought it is the wipers don't work on full speed. The few receipts I had with the car did mention a replacement brushset for the wiper motor, so it's obvious must have had trouble before. I've been trying to get into work earlier so I can leave earlier and give me more time to do stuff in the evening. Today was one of those days.
 
Wiper motor isn't terribly difficult to get to, just a bit tight and fiddly.

 
The two bolts on the side come off which releases the motor. You need to then pop the lid off the top for access to disconnected the mechanism.

 
Then on the back side you unplug the wiring connector.

 
Wait!? What's that??

 
Well that spade terminal missing the connector won't be helping in the troubles.
 
As I was here, I decided that I might as well finish removing it completely and inspect the insides. Which is a good job I did.


 
This fell out of the motor end.

 
Whoever put this back together last managed to completely hamfist and break the brushes. When reassembling you need to use a screwdriver to push the brushes back so the commutator can clear them. Looks like instead of doing this, the last person simply jammed the motor together until it closed. Except they managed to smash the brushes and mount in the process.
 
Luckily the commutator was undamaged.

 
I gave it a quick clean up with some 600 grit then a fibreglass pencil. Came up pretty well.

 
Handily the last owner kept every single part he replaced. I grabbed the old mount as it was a lot stiffer than the newer one and popped the red, non completely knackered brush onto it.
 
The yellow brush is still pretty worn on this though. I'll get another brush set and replace this at a later time.

 
Finally I cleaned out the old gunk and went crazy with the grease gun.

 
No wiper action video tonight unfortunately as I ran out of daylight.
 
At the weekend I also took the opportunity to recalibrate my fuel gauge. It originally read 3/4 when it's actually full. On the back of the gauge there is two adjusters to set max and min. 220 Ohms on the sender is minimum, 20 Ohms is maximum. The tank was reliably reading 20Ohms when full which was reassuring.

 
Using the old sender as a potentiometer, I could set the min and max. Very satisfying for my OCD to have this line up pretty much perfectly.


 
For added accuracy* I put in a new solid state voltage regulator to give a constant 10v. I like the idea and cuteness of the bi-metalic strip as a solution, but I also would like a half decent accurate gauge! The new regulator isn't as precise output voltage as my bench supply so, despite me getting the gauge bob on while on the bench, it's out again.
 
Being summer, the car had bird crap down it again. Requiring another wash. I also gave the bumpers a quick polish too.


 
This is where I shamefully admit that I've pretty much turned into a stereotypical MGB owner. I spent so long cleaning the car, it got late and I didn't even get a chance to properly give it a drive. Despite it being the first day of the MOT exemption and so road legal* again!
 
At least I've pretty much run out of things to fix for now! I'm sure it'll find something else to keep me busy with though. Hopefully not too much however, as I have a certain car coming which will need a fair bit of ol' work and focus.

What is this?

 
Proper old fashioned, quality metal working tools!

 
Massive thanks!

Hard to tell if strand of insulation have been exposed to be honest. If I'm reusing the loom, I'd cut it into two and resolder or cut off the insulation and heatshrink.
 
I have pondered about reusing the loom but cutting off all the knackered, corroded crimps and crimping fresh ones on. The dash end could all be chopped back and a multiway block attached to it. Then the dash itself has a mini loom. Thus if the dash ever needs to come off, it's substantially easier job.
 
The only thing that puts me off on that plan is often I've found once you start cutting off the connectors, it requires a fair amount of cleaning of the wire until it becomes acceptable. New wire isn't even that expensive if I did make a new loom either. Especially if I only buy what I need in roughly the correct meter lengths. I reckon one could be remade for under 100quid. It's really not a very complicated car electrically.
 
What it would give remaking it, is complete confidence and reliability in the electrical systems of the car. Which is no bad thing.

More stuff happened tonight.
 
Really not much to report about taking the tank out.

 
8 bolts - all reasonably easy to remove curtosy of my impact driver. That tool is really not designed for driving sockets (I think) but it does a great job of doing so. Only 110Nm max and so less likely to snap the bolts off compared to an impact wrench. The impact function helps loosen stuff too.
 
I hoped to remove the short fuel pipe that goes from the tank to a Flexi but the fitting on the tank is pretty much stuck solid. The pipe is very crusty and I think will have to be replaced. I'll probably cut the pipe right down and I can then get a decent impact socket on there and some force on it.
 
Anyway those bolts, cut pipe and undo sender wire. Tank out.

 
Actually in extremely good condition. The brown you see is actually dirt, not rust. I think a good clean down and a paint will bring it right back up. I was very worried that I might have to get it professionally refurbished, however I think it's in by far good enough condition to not need it. Top is in great condition, worst bit is the bottom. However Vulg put fuel in it, so the bottom must not be leaking.
 
Even looking inside through the filler it looks reasonable.

 
Now thanks to a certain MP, upskirting isn't illegal yet. So I can show you the state of the boot above the tank.
 



 
No rust!!
 
Nothing around the front of the tank either. Subframe itself has some surface rust but it does seem solid. I'm really going to have to remove it at some point for a proper paint to protect it.
 

 
Nearside hydrolastic pipe was pinched between the subframe and boot floor. I pulled this free. Luckily it doesn't seem permanently damaged. Hydro pipes are aged but currently seem usable. Another thing less to worry about thankfully.
 


 
Now time to show you some ugly bits.
 
Nearside rear subframe, front mount appears strong from what I can see. Messy but solid from my non expert eye.
 





 
Lets have a look at a proper bad bit. Front offside mount this time.

 
Looking in that hole.

 
At the mount location itself (slightly to the right of the hole). These two bits have split apart. Going to need cleaning back and finding how much good steel is left.

 
We can't end on that mess, so let's look down towards the front of the car.
 

 
Lack of daylight made for a bad photo, so I bumped up the brightness and over saturated it to try and make it clearer. Looking down here perked me up a lot. Maybe not totally clear from that photo, but apart from the sills, drivers floor, driver floor subframe mount, 2 rear subframe mounts and wheel arches there isn't much more structurally concerning rust. Cosmetically there is the offside rear wheel arch, bottom of both back wings, that new dashboard hole and the front bulkhead that needs patching up.
 
Sounds a lot but most of it seems like it can be patched perfectly fine. I was considering removing the entire floor on each side, but it looks in great condition generally.
 
This week's list is slowly getting there now. The big two jobs are done now. Just fiddly small jobs.

 
Then to start the big weldathon.

I totally understand what you mean by cleaning the shell down completely. However this will never be a concourse show winner. Well it could, but that would require cutting large parts of the body off and replacing them. Body panels aren't cheap for these and not all pieces are around, so a lot of fabrication. Then a full body respray which around here is at least £2k. Finally all the other small ancillaries and parts add up. By the time I've done all that, I would have spent more than just buying an immaculate one anyway. But I wouldn't want to drive it and mess it all up.
 
So my plan is to fix it up the body so it's safe and solid. Paint work wise it's very likely going to be machine sanded down and then rollered with enamal or similar by my wife. It won't be immaculate, infact it may only be a 10 footer. However this means I can enjoy it as it is. Buzz it around the city and on back roads. If someone dings the doors, keys it or drives into the side of it then I'll just be annoyed.
 
Plus a full restoration to bring it to out of/better than factory condition will take too long. I'll be bored long before then and want a new project.

What is this?

 
Proper old fashioned, quality metal working tools!

 
Massive thanks!

More stuff happened tonight.
 
Really not much to report about taking the tank out.

 
8 bolts - all reasonably easy to remove curtosy of my impact driver. That tool is really not designed for driving sockets (I think) but it does a great job of doing so. Only 110Nm max and so less likely to snap the bolts off compared to an impact wrench. The impact function helps loosen stuff too.
 
I hoped to remove the short fuel pipe that goes from the tank to a Flexi but the fitting on the tank is pretty much stuck solid. The pipe is very crusty and I think will have to be replaced. I'll probably cut the pipe right down and I can then get a decent impact socket on there and some force on it.
 
Anyway those bolts, cut pipe and undo sender wire. Tank out.

 
Actually in extremely good condition. The brown you see is actually dirt, not rust. I think a good clean down and a paint will bring it right back up. I was very worried that I might have to get it professionally refurbished, however I think it's in by far good enough condition to not need it. Top is in great condition, worst bit is the bottom. However Vulg put fuel in it, so the bottom must not be leaking.
 
Even looking inside through the filler it looks reasonable.

 
Now thanks to a certain MP, upskirting isn't illegal yet. So I can show you the state of the boot above the tank.
 



 
No rust!!
 
Nothing around the front of the tank either. Subframe itself has some surface rust but it does seem solid. I'm really going to have to remove it at some point for a proper paint to protect it.
 

 
Nearside hydrolastic pipe was pinched between the subframe and boot floor. I pulled this free. Luckily it doesn't seem permanently damaged. Hydro pipes are aged but currently seem usable. Another thing less to worry about thankfully.
 


 
Now time to show you some ugly bits.
 
Nearside rear subframe, front mount appears strong from what I can see. Messy but solid from my non expert eye.
 





 
Lets have a look at a proper bad bit. Front offside mount this time.

 
Looking in that hole.

 
At the mount location itself (slightly to the right of the hole). These two bits have split apart. Going to need cleaning back and finding how much good steel is left.

 
We can't end on that mess, so let's look down towards the front of the car.
 

 
Lack of daylight made for a bad photo, so I bumped up the brightness and over saturated it to try and make it clearer. Looking down here perked me up a lot. Maybe not totally clear from that photo, but apart from the sills, drivers floor, driver floor subframe mount, 2 rear subframe mounts and wheel arches there isn't much more structurally concerning rust. Cosmetically there is the offside rear wheel arch, bottom of both back wings, that new dashboard hole and the front bulkhead that needs patching up.
 
Sounds a lot but most of it seems like it can be patched perfectly fine. I was considering removing the entire floor on each side, but it looks in great condition generally.
 
This week's list is slowly getting there now. The big two jobs are done now. Just fiddly small jobs.

 
Then to start the big weldathon.

What is this?

 
Proper old fashioned, quality metal working tools!

 
Massive thanks!

What is this?

 
Proper old fashioned, quality metal working tools!

 
Massive thanks!

I have a well thought of HVLP Apollo spray set up that could do with some action. I will likely have retired by the time it's 'get the paint on time'.
 
Just saying.

I do it exactly the other way round,
"I'm really sorry. I think we got cut off there. This phone is crap. Sorry....., what were you saying?...."

Wet and dry vac? Could be handy in this situation!

Wet and dry vac? Could be handy in this situation!

She's back. Thank god for that.
 
A lot of cat hissing outside, so I suspect she may have been cornered for a long while. I was getting extremely worried that I may unwittingly split coolant on the floor earlier and she drank some.

She's back. Thank god for that.
 
A lot of cat hissing outside, so I suspect she may have been cornered for a long while. I was getting extremely worried that I may unwittingly split coolant on the floor earlier and she drank some.