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SiC

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  1. Like
    SiC reacted to Mrs Spart in Mrs Sparts MG diary.   
    So the guy doing the service and front brakes called up... "Bring it over" he says!😀
     
      It started again, first time @Mally🥲!!!
      So happy, yet saddening to know that @spartacusisn't here to witness this.
      10 (very cautious!) miles later I drove it to the garage... For a Service and new front brakes.
     
      Thank you @Mally! I am so so SO over the f#cking moon with this... To know that C@#t (aka "Tim") is home AND working is unbelievable, I only wish that @spartacuswas here to witness this. 
    (BTW Doug was dead impressed it was all down to the motor arm... Well spotted @Mally👌🏽👍🏽)

  2. Like
    SiC got a reaction from Isopon in Rusty Triumphs in Scotland - Stage one tidy of the Swede - 11/06/21   
    Blue one has the scrap marker against it unfortunately.
  3. Like
    SiC reacted to sickboy in Sickboy's stuff: 182 out, 940 in, Saab 900 now MOT'ed   
    And finally, MOT came yesterday, which it passed, needing only one bulb replacing.



  4. Like
    SiC reacted to sickboy in Sickboy's stuff: 182 out, 940 in, Saab 900 now MOT'ed   
    Going back together. I sealed the arches in stonechip, and fitted news discs, pads, calipers and hoses all round



    Might still change the springs, so that's why they weren't blasted with the rest of the axle
  5. Like
    SiC reacted to sickboy in Sickboy's stuff: 182 out, 940 in, Saab 900 now MOT'ed   
    Relocated the battery to the boot. The stock location is about the only part of these car’s otherwise fantastic design that I dislike. It gets hot near the turbo and I want to make or buy a 3” elbow in the near future too. Made a nifty battery tray for a small glass mat battery which could go under the boot floor hatch beside the spare wheel. 
    (soon discovered the CCA wasn’t cutting the mustard so sent it back and hacked the tray up to fit a conventional lead acid one)
     
    Although not shown, the main cable has a fusable link and master kill switch fitted.








     
  6. Like
    SiC reacted to sickboy in Sickboy's stuff: 182 out, 940 in, Saab 900 now MOT'ed   
    Got the axle blasted and POR-15’ed whilst it was removed



    Spot of rust needed sorting on one arm before paint




    Made these bushes for the rear ARB, and also made some stainless tank straps (if anyone’s interested I can make more of either 😉)





     
  7. Like
    SiC reacted to sickboy in Sickboy's stuff: 182 out, 940 in, Saab 900 now MOT'ed   
    New inner arch too then 🙄




     
    Used weld-through primer on the inner and outer arch lips first, then masked it before the red. 
     

    Sprayed the back before fitting it, and tried to copy the factory TIG welds on the inner wing. 






    The colour match is better than it looks, that bonnet needed a polish!!! I will get it redone very soon by a friendly paint sprayer.

     
  8. Like
    SiC reacted to sickboy in Sickboy's stuff: 182 out, 940 in, Saab 900 now MOT'ed   
    Come this year, I decided I'd first tackle the dubiously repaired front wing. Standard crusty lip and evident filler/paper mache artistry swayed me to replace it.

    After a bit of prodding



    Oh dear


    Oh dear oh dear


     
  9. Like
    SiC reacted to sickboy in Sickboy's stuff: 182 out, 940 in, Saab 900 now MOT'ed   
    6 months on, I thought I’d update.
    Got the interior in the Falcon, but I decided in February that the Saab was closer to being on the road so I'd focus on getting that done for the summer. Like all these things, it ended up being worse than I thought. Ho hum. 
     
    Wind back to February last year, and I repaired the driveshaft tunnels

     









     

  10. Like
    SiC reacted to Joey spud in Boris the '59 Minor.   
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174347644847?var=473547526191
    I don't know if i have big enough gonads to paint a whole car with it but what i have done has come out good.
  11. Haha
    SiC got a reaction from Joey spud in Boris the '59 Minor.   
    Pretty sure you'll be painting the whole car in it at this rate 🤣
  12. Like
    SiC got a reaction from Joey spud in Boris the '59 Minor.   
    Christine usually frequents TDW. He still posts regularly on there and did recently. Sometimes pops back on AS occasionally I've noticed.


  13. Like
    SiC reacted to cobblers in 2002 Renault Clio II 172 - Grumpiness electrical diagnostics   
    Very thorough! I would also agree to be suspicious of the lambda sensor over the injectors, however if you do have one weepy injector it will make the overall mixture look rich, causing the ECU to pull fuel overall (is it is) leaning out 3 cylinders to compensate. If the lambda is a total ballache to swap, it might be worth popping the injectors out and testing them for flow, just to see if they all somewhat match - Particularly if these cars are known for injector issues.
     
    Perhaps just unplug the lambda for now so it runs open loop and see where that gets you?
  14. Like
    SiC got a reaction from cobblers in 2002 Renault Clio II 172 - Grumpiness electrical diagnostics   
    Did some fiddling tonight to see if I could pin down this slightly rough idle and the low long term fuel trim. Low long term fuel trim means the ECU is injecting less fuel as it thinks it's running too rich. In this case it is reducing the injection amount by 23.5%.

    First off was checking the injector resistance. This requires removing the injector crash guard.




    Now spec is 14.3 Ohms but I believe that's at 20C. However this engine is up to temperature and so the actual values will be different. But I'll get onto that in a bit.

    The measured resistance from cylinder one to four was 16.5 Ohms, 16.5 Ohms, 16.7 Ohms and 16.8 Ohms.



    Now you might be saying "That's far higher than 14.3 Ohms!"
    Well that's correct. The electrical side of an injector is basically a coil of wire. I don't know for sure but I'm pretty sure it'll be copper.

    Now for every 1 degree Celsius increase in temperature, copper increases its resistance by 0.393%. What does that mean in practice?

    Difference between 16.7 and 14.3 Ohms is 15.5%. 15.5/0.393 = 39.5c increase. I.e. 20c + 39.5c = 59.5c injector temp if correct. Measuring the injectors with an IR guns gets around 60c on them! So that increase is in the right ballpark. (Feel free someone to critique my maths)

    However I will still check them from stone cold tomorrow morning before saying for sure. I also listened with a mechanics stethoscope. First time I've listened to injectors on one but they all sounded the same with a regular and consistent clicking to them. I then disconnected each injector in turn. The exhaust note from a injector disconnected between cylinders was the same.

    Right now I'm not 100% sure the injectors are at fault here. Even though the resistance values were when hot, they were all pretty consistent.

    What next? There really isn't many sensors on the Clio and hilariously you can disconnect the MAP, intake temperature sensor, O2 sensor and it will still run. No warning lights either. I sprayed some carb cleaner about the manifold to check for leaks but there wasn't anywhere that caused a rev change.

    Anyway I thought I would check the MAP sensor. This sensor is measuring the pressure drop from ambient. Ambient is about 100kpa. Remember this fact.

    Removing the sensor required careful wiggling. I didn't want to snap the end off, so gently does it.


    Reading the OBD values with it disconnected gave 101kpa. The weather is nice here today, which explains that extra 1kpa.


    Now I hooked up my cheapy Red Box Chinese hand vacuum pump. This measures in mmHG - millimeters of mercury. You don't need to worry too much about that apart from that you can convert it to kpa.
    I pumped the handle to suck the air out to -300mmHG


    What is 300mmHG? It's pretty much 40kpa


    Now remember that ambient is 100kpa. As we are pulling a vacuum of 40kpa you simply do: 100kpa - 40kpa = 60kpa we should read on the sensor.

    What do we get?


    Bingo!

    Let's try a bit more vacuum.


    450mmHG gives 60kpa. 100kpa-60kpa=40kpa


    What does that give us?


    Excellent!

    Finally let's go down a bit more. I don't want to go too low as I don't want to damage the diaphragm inside this delicate sensor.
    600mmHG is 80kpa.


    100kpa-80kpa=20kpa


    Even though I'm using a cheap no brand name vacuum gauge and so could question the accuracy of the gauge, I'm pretty happy that it's correct. The values match up with what the MAP sensor is reporting and it would be very coincidental if both were inaccurate by the same amount.

    So that begs the question what is wrong. I'll check those injector resistance again in the morning. I could check their spray pattern but given they have been undisturbed for 18+ years, I don't really want to remove them. There is a good chance if I do that the o-rings will be damaged. I don't have any spare fuel resistant o-rings to hand.

    I want to check the O2 sensor values. However my laptop battery was flat, so I couldn't plug in my better scan tool. I could drag the oscilloscope out but that's a lot of faff. Especially as the signal lines aren't the easiest to get to on this engine (the sensor is down the back of the engine by the firewall). My suspicion is that it might have gone a bit on the slow side. I don't see any history of it ever being changed either.

    There is also the possibility that everything is ok too! It might have done the stutter from something moist from being sat. I.e. condensation around the plugs. Now it's up to temperature that could have evaporated off.

    But the fuel trims are on the low side still. Maybe just worn injectors or the O2 sensor. Fuel is about 4 months old, so not super fresh but not that old. I'd thought it would be running with positive fuel trims if it was fuel. I.e. it's having to pump more fuel in to make it richer as it won't burning as well.

    I probably shouldn't discount the coil pack or leads either. It's not that old but I don't think either is genuine and so there is very much a chance it's failed again. Plugs are the right ones and were replaced the same time as the coil.
  15. Like
    SiC got a reaction from JMotor in 2002 Renault Clio II 172 - Grumpiness electrical diagnostics   
    £85 for a genuine Bosch from ECP. Problem is, it's right down the back of the engine and you know it'll be a right arse to remove. Especially as I don't think it ever has been. Its got an MOT on the 24th, so I might ask the garage then to change it. Also curious to see what the emissions come back like without changing it. 
    Injectors came back as 14.7, 14.6, 14.8 and 14.8 Ohms. Spec I think is between 14 and 15 Ohms. Doesn't tell me much about the spray pattern though. However they are ticking evenly when listened to, so unlikely to be gummed up. 
  16. Like
    SiC got a reaction from Mrs Spart in Mrs Sparts MG diary.   
    See below:
     
  17. Thanks
    SiC reacted to wuvvum in Dollywobbler's Consolidated Tat Thread   
    I don't think those clean air zones are about saving the planet as much as saving the lungs of the local nuns and kittens.
  18. Like
    SiC got a reaction from mat_the_cat in Mrs Sparts MG diary.   
    Depends on the budget and dizzy condition. 
    If the budget is there, I'm a massive convert to the 123 Ignition. This replaces the dizzy with one specifically designed for electronic ignition. Also readily available cap and rotor as used on so many other cars, made by Bosch, Beru and others. So none of this repro nonsense. My BGT has been running the best it ever has since I put mine in. That's after going through several old original Lucas dizzy and modern repro "Lucas" units. I could have had the original Lucas dizzys rebuilt by the Distributor Doctor, but the 123 was the same price and had the above advantages. Basically a unit that can be fit and forgotten about for years.
    If the budget isn't, then spend it first on the brakes. Short term Accuspark are alright or a Gammatronix spark assist (I believe Spartacus used one on the Panda). The Gammatronix can be had from eBay (cottage business) and is of the same ilk as the old fashioned Sparkrite units. I.e. chop out the condenser and put between coil and points. Both of these rely on the dizzy itself being in decent condition. If original Lucas then it may be a bit worn, but can be rebuilt (same cost as a 123 ignition though). If repro (Indian / Chinese made) then the experience of many is that they start out ok but they start to loose timing. My cheap 45d started loosing it badly after only 800 miles. 
    Points you're getting should get it running and moving about though. 
  19. Like
    SiC reacted to Mrs Spart in Mrs Sparts MG diary.   
    I do feel so sorry for @Mally... Once again @Mallykindly drove over here, with hopes of getting the MGB GT going...
    And it did go...
      Momentarily before living up to it's old name of c#@t... One day I may take pity on it and call it Tim 😒🤣😂
     
    Thank you again @Mallyfor popping over, honestly I am ever so grateful... 🤞🏽for the rotor motor🤞🏽😬

    20210610_113129_1.mp4
  20. Like
    SiC reacted to cort1977 in The new news 24 thread   
    Ford doesn't actually sell them like that though.  That's an f750 chassis with an f350 body grafted on, fancy wheels and fabricated steps etc.
    Which is great. 
  21. Like
    SiC got a reaction from Floatylight in Dollywobbler's Consolidated Tat Thread   
    Clean Air Zone has arrived into Birmingham, Bristol in October and a few other places are getting one too. Pre 2015 diesels and many pre 2005 petrols will be sold off in those areas not because they're knackered but because their owners can't use them. A lot I imagine will be part-ex'd but there will be some on the open market.
    How that will affect the used market I don't know. But maybe worth keeping a few saved searches around those areas. 
  22. Like
    SiC got a reaction from bobdisk in Dollywobbler's Consolidated Tat Thread   
    Clean Air Zone has arrived into Birmingham, Bristol in October and a few other places are getting one too. Pre 2015 diesels and many pre 2005 petrols will be sold off in those areas not because they're knackered but because their owners can't use them. A lot I imagine will be part-ex'd but there will be some on the open market.
    How that will affect the used market I don't know. But maybe worth keeping a few saved searches around those areas. 
  23. Like
    SiC got a reaction from N19 in Dollywobbler's Consolidated Tat Thread   
    Clean Air Zone has arrived into Birmingham, Bristol in October and a few other places are getting one too. Pre 2015 diesels and many pre 2005 petrols will be sold off in those areas not because they're knackered but because their owners can't use them. A lot I imagine will be part-ex'd but there will be some on the open market.
    How that will affect the used market I don't know. But maybe worth keeping a few saved searches around those areas. 
  24. Like
    SiC got a reaction from dollywobbler in Dollywobbler's Consolidated Tat Thread   
    Clean Air Zone has arrived into Birmingham, Bristol in October and a few other places are getting one too. Pre 2015 diesels and many pre 2005 petrols will be sold off in those areas not because they're knackered but because their owners can't use them. A lot I imagine will be part-ex'd but there will be some on the open market.
    How that will affect the used market I don't know. But maybe worth keeping a few saved searches around those areas. 
  25. Like
    SiC got a reaction from Tickman in 2002 Renault Clio II 172 - Grumpiness electrical diagnostics   
    Did some fiddling tonight to see if I could pin down this slightly rough idle and the low long term fuel trim. Low long term fuel trim means the ECU is injecting less fuel as it thinks it's running too rich. In this case it is reducing the injection amount by 23.5%.

    First off was checking the injector resistance. This requires removing the injector crash guard.




    Now spec is 14.3 Ohms but I believe that's at 20C. However this engine is up to temperature and so the actual values will be different. But I'll get onto that in a bit.

    The measured resistance from cylinder one to four was 16.5 Ohms, 16.5 Ohms, 16.7 Ohms and 16.8 Ohms.



    Now you might be saying "That's far higher than 14.3 Ohms!"
    Well that's correct. The electrical side of an injector is basically a coil of wire. I don't know for sure but I'm pretty sure it'll be copper.

    Now for every 1 degree Celsius increase in temperature, copper increases its resistance by 0.393%. What does that mean in practice?

    Difference between 16.7 and 14.3 Ohms is 15.5%. 15.5/0.393 = 39.5c increase. I.e. 20c + 39.5c = 59.5c injector temp if correct. Measuring the injectors with an IR guns gets around 60c on them! So that increase is in the right ballpark. (Feel free someone to critique my maths)

    However I will still check them from stone cold tomorrow morning before saying for sure. I also listened with a mechanics stethoscope. First time I've listened to injectors on one but they all sounded the same with a regular and consistent clicking to them. I then disconnected each injector in turn. The exhaust note from a injector disconnected between cylinders was the same.

    Right now I'm not 100% sure the injectors are at fault here. Even though the resistance values were when hot, they were all pretty consistent.

    What next? There really isn't many sensors on the Clio and hilariously you can disconnect the MAP, intake temperature sensor, O2 sensor and it will still run. No warning lights either. I sprayed some carb cleaner about the manifold to check for leaks but there wasn't anywhere that caused a rev change.

    Anyway I thought I would check the MAP sensor. This sensor is measuring the pressure drop from ambient. Ambient is about 100kpa. Remember this fact.

    Removing the sensor required careful wiggling. I didn't want to snap the end off, so gently does it.


    Reading the OBD values with it disconnected gave 101kpa. The weather is nice here today, which explains that extra 1kpa.


    Now I hooked up my cheapy Red Box Chinese hand vacuum pump. This measures in mmHG - millimeters of mercury. You don't need to worry too much about that apart from that you can convert it to kpa.
    I pumped the handle to suck the air out to -300mmHG


    What is 300mmHG? It's pretty much 40kpa


    Now remember that ambient is 100kpa. As we are pulling a vacuum of 40kpa you simply do: 100kpa - 40kpa = 60kpa we should read on the sensor.

    What do we get?


    Bingo!

    Let's try a bit more vacuum.


    450mmHG gives 60kpa. 100kpa-60kpa=40kpa


    What does that give us?


    Excellent!

    Finally let's go down a bit more. I don't want to go too low as I don't want to damage the diaphragm inside this delicate sensor.
    600mmHG is 80kpa.


    100kpa-80kpa=20kpa


    Even though I'm using a cheap no brand name vacuum gauge and so could question the accuracy of the gauge, I'm pretty happy that it's correct. The values match up with what the MAP sensor is reporting and it would be very coincidental if both were inaccurate by the same amount.

    So that begs the question what is wrong. I'll check those injector resistance again in the morning. I could check their spray pattern but given they have been undisturbed for 18+ years, I don't really want to remove them. There is a good chance if I do that the o-rings will be damaged. I don't have any spare fuel resistant o-rings to hand.

    I want to check the O2 sensor values. However my laptop battery was flat, so I couldn't plug in my better scan tool. I could drag the oscilloscope out but that's a lot of faff. Especially as the signal lines aren't the easiest to get to on this engine (the sensor is down the back of the engine by the firewall). My suspicion is that it might have gone a bit on the slow side. I don't see any history of it ever being changed either.

    There is also the possibility that everything is ok too! It might have done the stutter from something moist from being sat. I.e. condensation around the plugs. Now it's up to temperature that could have evaporated off.

    But the fuel trims are on the low side still. Maybe just worn injectors or the O2 sensor. Fuel is about 4 months old, so not super fresh but not that old. I'd thought it would be running with positive fuel trims if it was fuel. I.e. it's having to pump more fuel in to make it richer as it won't burning as well.

    I probably shouldn't discount the coil pack or leads either. It's not that old but I don't think either is genuine and so there is very much a chance it's failed again. Plugs are the right ones and were replaced the same time as the coil.
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