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Nibblet

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Nibblet last won the day on August 22 2019

Nibblet had the most liked content!

About Nibblet

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    Rank: Renault 16

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Glouchestershite
  • Interests
    Cars, making things out of timber/metal/clay. Military history, Western swing, blues, ragtime.

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  • Country
    Autoshite

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  1. I can't remember ever seeing a droop snoot Carlton in the flesh and have certainly never seen a 4dr Royale.
  2. Bloody fantastic. Love the shank of hemp rope slung about the front. Do they have any form of suspension at all?
  3. Both manifold to exhaust pipe joints were smoking a bit so I tightened them up and solved that and I've a choke cable to affix, when it arrives. Next I think I'm going to get the exhaust on, at least temporarily, it's deafeningly loud without it.
  4. You can just see the string at the end of the throttle linkage quadrant here, at the right hand base of the rotor cap. Now I've added another spring I may be able to play B or even G.
  5. Must have knocked it or something when I was rummaging about in the footwell. My plan to use a meccano wheel as part of the throttle linkage came go nought, darned things are pressed out of three pieces of brass and quickly fell apart, so used a wheel from a sash pulley instead. Then I had a lot of bother with the bit of bike cable I was using, far too stiff and heavy. The throttle linkage is very lightly sprung on these Nikki carbs, especially the primary, I guess that helps get a nice progressive pedal. So I used a guitar string instead...a top E to be precise, I've also added another throttle return spring to get the throttle to snap shut against the idle screw. Piccy shows sash pulley, E string and nylon peg holding string in place. You can see a shiny little screw at the bottom middle of the pic, that's the one that would normally tighten onto the cable, no chance in that position, so I threaded the guitar string the opposite direction. It's quite safe now as the guitar string is very light and if it breaks the engine will just idle.
  6. Had a minor* scare when I noticed a red light still up, on the speedo. Thought t'was the oil pressure light still on....thankfully was a brake failure warning lamp. Checked the internals of the voltage regulator after a puff of smoke came out yesterday- could see nowt wrong other than a little soot around the relay points, so gave em a clean and plugged back into the alternator- charge fault lamp went out so appears to be charging now. Also wired up the fuel sender, that's working correctly. Temperature is reading very low, even after a 15 minute warm up, whether that's because I've got the wrong sender in or whether it's because I've got a fatter 3 core rad in now I don't know. I wasn't entirely convinced that the thermostat is opening fully neither, the top hose still seemed a bit soft and whilst hot, not too hot to touch. Starting is still an issue unless the choke is set just right and a little fuel poured into the carb venturi, that might improve when there's an air box and the opportunity to use the foot pedal judiciously. 20200401_181842.mp4 20200401_181842.mp4
  7. They might be cool nowadays but when I was a child they were generally the preserve of the elderly, the cautious and conservative, much the same as Volvos. In the States both are seen as being mad UCAL scientist or beat poet fodder, so virtually the opposite. You were fairly odd if you drove a Saab, a step further might have been the silver Renault 10 one neighbour owned. The ultra limit of oddity was the Skoda MB1000 our neighbour had around c1975. It's comforting really that people were quite satisfied with such cars until the mid 1980s.
  8. I'm almost suprised you can't hear it anyway...its....loud 😁
  9. That could be a bargain- equally it could be a massive undertaking; all depends on the level of rot around the base of the scuttle. Most times the top half survives very well although some of the late ones seem to rust much worse, at a guess the metallic paint was rubbish.
  10. A long day today but got the green un going. I thought I'd set up the distributor correctly a few days ago but I'd set no1 cylinder at the beginning of the compression stroke, not at the end of it. That fooled me for a little while. My plan to use a bicycle cable betwixt original Saab linkage and the throttle mechanism of the carb was a fail-way too much friction in the cable, even after thoroughly oiling the sheath. The plan will now be to attach a plain cable from the throttle quadrant to a meccano wheel brazed onto the linkage spindle. If I drill half a dozen holes around the periphery that will give me lots of choices as to where to affix the pin on the cable's end. Anyhow I got some sparks despite the ancient leads and old ignition components. The plugs, when I pulled them looked virtually new, I do have replacement leads, rotor, cap etc which I'll fit later on. Tomorrow, if I feel energetic, I'll get a timing light and set her up a bit better. I'm just really relieved that the old Saab is alive again after four years or so of surgery. If you're into fiddling with cars, especially really old ones that may have been long since abandoned or in very poor condition, its a very special moment when they come back to life after all the work you've put into them.
  11. Two questions, how long have you had that 240GLT? Secondly, you say you have a 92B, can we have a piccy or two?
  12. A twin choke carb, set up right should* give about 15 horses more power, that and the Jetex exhaust I've fitted. The FOMOCO carbs receive mixed results anyway, some have no issues at all with them, others say they're terrible, depends on whether they're a Monday or Friday carb, well it was the 70s. Some folks have used a twin choke carb with an adapter plate to narrow down to the single port manifold and reckon it works very well, problem with that is the adapter needs to either be used with the intermediate plate as well-that's 2 plates betwixt carb and manifold, height and distance between carb and manifold becomes a problem. Or you have to tap the manifold to allow for vacuum ports for the brake booster and rocker cover ventilation. The ultimate set up is using 2x side draught Webers, for which you need the octopus type manifold.... Approx 30,000 Swedish sovs new... Did you find your 96 to be a drinker? Even with the wee FOMOCO they're fairly heavy on fuel.
  13. I'm a gonna cut out the middle bit of aluminium on the intermediate plate which allows for vacuum for rocker cover and brake booster and shift carb to one side, other side can be screwed down fine through intermediate plate and then the carb bolted to manifold past it with the addition of a couple of bits of pipe slipped over the studs. Piccies to follow when I'm less knackered.
  14. Yeah- they stink of fuel very often too; Trip to Bucklands would be excellent indeed! In the meantime I have found that virtually every aspect of the 5 Nikki carbs I have is wrong....The hole spacing on the bases, the fact that the 96 has a pusher rod operating the old carb, rather than something to pull on the Nikki linkages or pull a cable on the one I have which is set up for that... However with my near genius level of bodgery these obstacles will be overcome.
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