Jump to content


Full Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender


  • Country
    United Kingdom

Recent Profile Visitors

448 profile views

MrBiscuits's Achievements

Rank: Austin Maxi

Rank: Austin Maxi (4/12)



  1. I thought that seemed cheap. I guess that's why. In my Mini driving days the yards were full of metros and maestros so I never tried the aftermarket stuff. I do remember the difference between an electronic system and points/condenser being like night and day though. As others have said a car as good as this deserves a decent system
  2. I'm surprised the previous owners have spent so much and not sacked off the points & condenser for electronic ignition. It will run so much better. This was always one of the first jobs on mine - in those days £20 for a scrap dizzy and coil from a 1275 maestro. Now you can buy a new electronic distributor for £70 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUCAS-59D4-STYLE-ELECTRONIC-DISTRIBUTOR-A-engine-From-AccuSpark-/180673283496
  3. I had an old BMW 525, noticed a slight whiff or petrol but decided to press on. On arrival I lifted the bonnet to find a fine jet of fuel spraying out of a the rubber hose feeding the fuel rail. That weekend I changed all the rubber fuel line and a lot of it just fell apart. Then there were the Minis. One with 3 of 4 front subframe mounts split and only the top mounts holding it in. I was 17 so didn't really notice, but it sure handled sharper afterwards. Mini number 2 I bought without much of a test drive as the guy lived in a busy part of town and I had no insurance. When I picked it up it felt a bit wayward. Couldn't see much wrong underneath. Once home we had a closer look and found both front hub nuts finger tight - thank god the manky split pins were still there....
  4. Stage 1 kit for the 998 is a more free flowing inlet & exhaust manifold, exhaust and different needle in the carb. Not a massive difference in bhp but noticeable as there isn't much to start with. Should also give you a nice exhaust note and does away with that bloody clamp on the old iron manifold that is always blowing....
  5. I started learning in 1996, with my instructor's N reg 'sad face' fiesta. It was a base model in flat red, with a strange blue interior. The NA Diesel engine made it nearly impossible to stall, that and PAS made it a good car for learners I suppose. Slow doesn't even begin to cover it though - I don't think I have experienced a more sloth like vehicle since. I still remember my first trip out on the local dual carriageway, floor it he said, the engine groaned a bit but we'd run out of road before it could get to 70. The first trip out in my own Mini mayfair was like being given the keys to a Lamborghini in comparison 😀
  6. Aged about 20 I managed to get a Mini 1000 past the '9' on the back to front 90 at the end of the big Smith's speedo. Gravity helped, and it wasn't quite standard but then I'd convinced myself it wasn't modified enough to bother the insurance company.
  7. House is 1930, bonus is that one of these is probably the only thing that would fit down my shared 'driveway'...
  8. Me too, It was a red N reg one, almost new at the time with all wheel trims removed for resale value. Dog slow is absolutely right. It even made my Mini 1000 feel quick. Very hard to stall though. For one lesson we went to a NSL dual carriage way I was instructed to floor it but we ran out of road before it got to 70 😀
  9. That yellow chevy is a Tonka Clutch Popper. I had a few of them. They made a great noise, reached incredible speeds once you got the flywheel going at 10000rpm and could slam into skirting boards like nothing else ?
  10. One for Arthur Tussik I think ?
  11. Engine braking every time in a manual. A few years driving proper Minis with drums all round and no servo taught me the lost art of anticipation. Daily driver now is a Toyota hybrid, this has very little natural engine braking, have to remind myself that hanging on the brake a bit downhill is actually OK. Above about 20mph all braking is regen, no friction loss and free energy in the battery. There is an engine braking mode on the transmission but I've never found a hill steep enough to need it.
  12. Threads like this really bring out the inverse snobbery on here. IMO that's no better than those that look down on others for not having an shiny new motor. I'm happy people are free to spend their money (earned or borrowed) on whatever they like. Don't forget all these PCP deals need people to build the cars, sell them, fix them, repossess them even - and that keeps thousands in work.
  13. BMW M50 into Rover SD1, with the 5 speed ZF Auto is one I've often pondered. Also how about one of those new tiny turbo'd 3 pots like the ford EcoBoost in a Mini? I'm sure it would be an engineering challenge but no more so than the Vtec or K series conversions....
  14. MrBiscuits

    Morris 1300

    Thinking about it, another possibility is a ballasted coil incorrectly fitted to a 'normal' ignition system. If you check the resistance across the LT terminals, a normal 12v coil should have 3 ohms. A ballasted one would be around 1.5 ohms
  15. MrBiscuits

    Morris 1300

    Could also be the wrong wire rather than wrong way round. I had the same issue myself after a mini engine swap. Some minis (mine was an A+ but possibly earlier ones were the same) use a ballasted coil that runs at a lower voltage. There's no separate resistor but the low tension feed is a special high resistance wire. It just looks like a normal wire and helpfully the loom also has a normal 12v feed too. If you connect the normal feed to a ballasted coil it will run fine - great in fact with a huge spark, until the coil overheats. Then it's dead until the coil cools down. I guess eventually the coil's killed but I spotted my mistake before that. If there's two low tension feeds in the loom it's worth swapping them.
  • Create New...