grogee

A-team van- hipster  version 

I don't think the AI knows what a Tucker is
2014 tucker 49 metallic candy apple red over gold

2014 triumph spitfire roadster lime gold metallic




 
... rear 3/4

2009 Hummer H2 Formula 1

1986 sunbeam rapier btcc red and black

1912 ford model t doctors coupe wrc 6r4 biturbo sponsored by sunpat

I’ve used JB Weld to fill some slight pitting in the block mating surface before. Worked well

The smiley faces make me want to scream.

If we put our bins out early three times, does @sierraman suddenly appear like a shit Beetlejuice?

I've checked block and there is no apparent banana-ing that I can detect. However there is pitting on areas of the block around the coolant channels, but not near the rings which seal the combustion chambers. There is no way of getting rid of this without a mill and a fly cutter so I'm going to live with it. 
I have been On A Journey as far as O-Series family tree is concerned. I was blithely assuming that all blocks and heads were basically the same, and I've successfully ordered parts for other cars (eg Rover 2000 and Freight Rover manifold gaskets) that fit just fine. 
Delving a little deeper I have found that head gaskets differ, at least between FWD and RWD cars and possibly even between FWD car derivatives. 
Part of my previous HG woes may well have been because I've been trying to fit the wrong gasket. 
The gasket in the plastic film is for a Sherpa/LDV and you can see the oil way and coolant channels don't match up. 
Fortunately I have a gasket listed for MG Maestro and Rover 800 (bASe models of which used O-series) coming. 
Whisper it, but I've also smeared a bit of sealant around the block where the pitting is apparent. This is a big Haynes no-no and must not ever be done under any circumstances. 
I wonder if it'll work? 

Been thinking about this post all day. 
Yes it's useful to have a skilled mate who can rescue jobs and provide advice on tap. 
But... Learning is failing. Failing is learning. He will have learned from his mistakes and you can, too. God knows I have. 
I worked in a garage aged 14-21 in an apprentice type role, weekends and holidays in between studying. My mentor was incredibly patient and a good teacher. 
Then I moved away and for a long time I was paying Other People to fix my cars. Usually it was expensive and afterwards I'd always find stuff wrong or something that I didn't like. 
In the last ten years or so I've increasingly taken on jobs myself. Usually justified by the cost of the required parts and tools being less than the cost of a garage job. 
Sometimes, I get it wrong and break stuff. Sometimes I have to do it twice. Each time this happens, I learn stuff. 
My point being: don't be afraid to fail. You've got work to do on this Excel, maybe it would be easier to learn on an old Escort but this is the path you've chosen. The Excel will bite you I'm sure, it's old and British and that's just what happens. But almost everything can be sourced and replaced if needed.
Strip a thread - drill it and tap a bigger one. Learn how to tap at the same time. Fixed, and now you aren't scared the next time you strip something. 
Also I'm certain the Excel isn't your daily driver. This is important, because failure doesn't jeopardise your ability to get to work or whatever. Failure would mean a setback but not an unrecoverable disaster. 
All of this to say - more power to your elbow. You can do it! Get stuck in and you have the hive mind here to ask if you get stuck. 
(Cautionary note: don't listen to my advice. I'm changing my Maestro head gasket for the fifth time, so I must be completely incompetent).

Been thinking about this post all day. 
Yes it's useful to have a skilled mate who can rescue jobs and provide advice on tap. 
But... Learning is failing. Failing is learning. He will have learned from his mistakes and you can, too. God knows I have. 
I worked in a garage aged 14-21 in an apprentice type role, weekends and holidays in between studying. My mentor was incredibly patient and a good teacher. 
Then I moved away and for a long time I was paying Other People to fix my cars. Usually it was expensive and afterwards I'd always find stuff wrong or something that I didn't like. 
In the last ten years or so I've increasingly taken on jobs myself. Usually justified by the cost of the required parts and tools being less than the cost of a garage job. 
Sometimes, I get it wrong and break stuff. Sometimes I have to do it twice. Each time this happens, I learn stuff. 
My point being: don't be afraid to fail. You've got work to do on this Excel, maybe it would be easier to learn on an old Escort but this is the path you've chosen. The Excel will bite you I'm sure, it's old and British and that's just what happens. But almost everything can be sourced and replaced if needed.
Strip a thread - drill it and tap a bigger one. Learn how to tap at the same time. Fixed, and now you aren't scared the next time you strip something. 
Also I'm certain the Excel isn't your daily driver. This is important, because failure doesn't jeopardise your ability to get to work or whatever. Failure would mean a setback but not an unrecoverable disaster. 
All of this to say - more power to your elbow. You can do it! Get stuck in and you have the hive mind here to ask if you get stuck. 
(Cautionary note: don't listen to my advice. I'm changing my Maestro head gasket for the fifth time, so I must be completely incompetent).

Mitsubishi GTO. £3000 Cov
https://www.gumtree.io/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/2002-mitsubishi-gto-1990-non-turbo-spares-or-repairs-export-coupe-petro/1477836432

Just done my bins. I thought of @sierraman. It's a four-binner tomorrow as well

Just done my bins. I thought of @sierraman. It's a four-binner tomorrow as well

13.5 metres floaty thing
https://www.troostwijkauctions.com/l/larc-xv-6-amphibi-voertuig-A1-17881-9?utm_source=marktplaats&utm_medium=referral


Cars can drive on and off, clearly it's the ideal collection/recovery vehicle:

'merica - 3.4 litres of v6 push rod fury. £2200, one years MOT


https://www.gumtree.com/p/other-cars/chevrolet-camaro-/1477838605

Just done my bins. I thought of @sierraman. It's a four-binner tomorrow as well

Austin Cardboard



Austin Metro Estate


1984 Aston Martin Cygnet

BMW E30 V12 Coupe


1986 Lancia Aurelia

Separated at birth, 1986 Maserati Biturbo

1930s transport hub of the future….
1938 bus with roof mounted zeppelin docking bay

1977 Alvis Stalwart BTCC racing

I've checked block and there is no apparent banana-ing that I can detect. However there is pitting on areas of the block around the coolant channels, but not near the rings which seal the combustion chambers. There is no way of getting rid of this without a mill and a fly cutter so I'm going to live with it. 
I have been On A Journey as far as O-Series family tree is concerned. I was blithely assuming that all blocks and heads were basically the same, and I've successfully ordered parts for other cars (eg Rover 2000 and Freight Rover manifold gaskets) that fit just fine. 
Delving a little deeper I have found that head gaskets differ, at least between FWD and RWD cars and possibly even between FWD car derivatives. 
Part of my previous HG woes may well have been because I've been trying to fit the wrong gasket. 
The gasket in the plastic film is for a Sherpa/LDV and you can see the oil way and coolant channels don't match up. 
Fortunately I have a gasket listed for MG Maestro and Rover 800 (bASe models of which used O-series) coming. 
Whisper it, but I've also smeared a bit of sealant around the block where the pitting is apparent. This is a big Haynes no-no and must not ever be done under any circumstances. 
I wonder if it'll work? 

"They were certainly a desirable dual purpose vehicle favoured by business men who perhaps had a slightly practical aspect to their work. It meant that they could get on site purportedly on the basis of doing a delivery without the formalities of going through the induction process."