Jump to content

rickvw72

Full Members
  • Posts

    430
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Leicester

Country

  • Country
    United Kingdom

Recent Profile Visitors

886 profile views

rickvw72's Achievements

Rank: Austin Maxi

Rank: Austin Maxi (4/12)

1.2k

Reputation

  1. We used to refer to the Maxus in the trade as having the “donkeys knob gearbox” One look at the gearstick tells you why.
  2. I’ve welded a couple of Peugeot’s in the past. Metal is very thin on them, so get practiced on something like an old fridge door, or even a microwave case. Be careful welding outside, wind will take your gas away from the torch, I’d actually do it gasless out side myself, obviously be careful of your sparks etc, that’s what folk will moan about. There’s plenty of mobile welders doing it, so you won’t be the only one. Saying all that though, the advice to only do it if your sure is the best. A rusty project car will find a home, a rusty project car with lumps missing, poor welding etc is fit for the bridge. Someone will always say everything is saveable, and they are right. So long as the guy owning it actually wants it, or has the ability to mend it themselves. I guess it’s the reason better spec stuff is saved- I wouldn’t spend an age on a Mk5 Escort 1.3 myself, as I don’t want to drive the damn thing after. Same reason I wouldn’t pay someone else thousands to mend such a motor. Im a couple of hundred hours into my rotten Fourtrak, but at the end I’ll have a useful, go anywhere, heavyweight towing machine. The welding here is gasless, it’s usable once practiced.
  3. Had a good few hours today. Started to reconstruct the missing nearside bodywork. This should be a picture of a Fourtrak sill and floor. There is a lack of steel on display. Not sure it looks better inside. Started on the inner sill right at the back. Approx 2 foot long this piece. With the very top of the inner sill in, I made the rest of the inner sill. My eBay outer sill was trimmed up and screwed on and off several thousand times. With the very rear done, I moved onto the mid section. This was fitted to the outer sill shape. The total lack of any original Daihatsu shape on this means most repair sections are free hand. Made and fitted a floor cross member on this too - it’s whet the earth clamps attached in the second picture. Outer sill hanging on. The shape looks excellent in my opinion. The very rear of the sill. Most of the bodywork here’s never been to Japan. Looking much nicer than the crap box section bodge. BEFORE: crap DURING: looking good. Tune in next time to get none of the questions your probably thinking answered. Such as: Will he ever stop welding the old shit box? Why is he bothering? Does Daihatsu plastic also rust? Is he ever gonna look further forward than the doors, under the front arches? Im dealing with the front end by pretending it’s fine.
  4. My accords the comfiest thing I’ve had, and I’ve had range rovers, a lowered beetle and a Fourtrak so I know comfort when I see it. Really is very smooth indeed. In fact it’s most brilliant, which is exactly the reason why I spend loads more money on uncomfy, thirsty and noisy members of the fleet.
  5. Thanks for the positive comments all, this type of works a slog at times and it’s nice folk are interested. The internet is really full of weird folk! Passenger floor then… This is under the seat. There’s a nice big patch here (white bit) this was welded to ever bracket and strengthened going. Inside the arch. All been repaired in the past by covering up the rust. Think the last welder sprayed his steel with salt water before tacking it in. Chopped a load of crap out, and there was not a lot left.Piles of rubbish that fell out or off. Cut the box section sill off with an air chisel, which vibrated all manner of rust and crap loose. concours repair to the sill from the past. Looked great, and for bonus points all the rust was still there, so it was rusting merrily. I improved the look of this by cutting it off and feeding it to the skip. mmm, there’s a bit too much fresh air in this pic. This is the inner sill and floor pan. Well it would be if there was any left. Remember I said this side was better? I was wrong. Its a kipper, confirmed.
  6. Whisper it quietly, but I think the drivers side is done! First order of business is to close up the inner rear arch. Made this up, and welded it all in. Outer arch cover is on here too, fits nice and covers so much of the work done. Inside, the rear bulkhead (which I had to make loads of previously) needed to be joined to the floor. Had to fabricate and fit a floor crossmember, which is fitted to the inner sills (which I made too). Ive renamed it a DaiRicksu now, as it’s basically coachbuilt in this area. Welded a big chunk of floor in. Had to repair and fit the rear seat support bracket, under the black panel that takes the seat base. Ground back and zinc primed it. Terrible pic of underside. Lots of new steel here, needs a tidy, prime and seal up. This is taken under the door area, looking back at the front of the rear wheel. It’s had some bloody welding, this old crate! I do still need to weld the outer sill on, which means it’s not 100 percent done this side, but all fabrication is done this side I reckon. I’m also fairly sure the other side is better to start with, so tune in next time to share my disappointment when I realise it’s a complete kipper!
  7. Fourtrak is basically a tractor. Towbar is the chassis. No messing.
  8. Accord passed its MoT, the second one in my ownership, both clean passes. Currently on 206,000 miles and returns around 47mpg. This is a great car, would 1000 percent recommend. Only recent work has been a rear caliper rebuild, and brake fluid change. Did however notice on the MoT that both front fogs are smashed, so I’ll see what eBay has on offer to celebrate its test pass. Rest of fleet update. Civic. 1000 miles since the gearbox and clutch change and all’s good. Mild squeek on acceleration has stopped now, and it’s a peaceful thing to ride in. A little bit of CV knock is now developing, and my partner starts a new job with longer commute soon, so I’ll be needing new tyres all round and a driveshaft in the very near future. It’s on 155,000 now, and returns about 37 mpg (1.8 petrol) Golf Clutch is getting a bit long in the tooth, and the dizzy seals leaking oil. Will be off to bed for winter soon, so I’m looking to do a few repairs, and fit my bilstein shocks. This will probably end in suspension and steering rebuild. It’s awesome though, so I don’t care. Averages 25mpg. 160 odd thousand on it now. Although it’s on engine no 3. T25 took us all round Wales earlier in the summer. And the New Forest. Will be in the workshop this winter, a few jobs are looming. Fourtrak Well it’s a bit rusty. rear inner arch is fabricated and fitted. working on the floors this side now. In this pic the inner sills, floor strenthener, and most of what you see of the rear bulkhead is new. Ill update its thread soon, as I’m nearly done on the drivers side. Passenger side looks better, but needs the sills and floors sorting. I’d like to be done welding on this by December, so hopefully I’ll get a few hours in on it soon. Might bite the bullet and order a new fuel tank, as these seem to be appreciating a bit now. I paid £400 for it (was robbed) with an MoT, seems them says are gone now!
  9. My daily, a £700 quid shed, has ice cold ac, leather, all the toys and does 45mpg. My old cars all drink like a fish, are noisy, and need constant attention. The old ones are spoilt, a bath is rare for the daily!
  10. A bit late now, but my preferred method is to remove the egr pipe (the tube with the folds for bends) from the exhaust side of the turbo. Fill up exhaust side of turbo with mr muscle oven cleaner, and use a vac pump to exercise the vanes. Refit pipe, start engine, hoon. Must have fixed 20 or so, including Volvos, Renaults but many VW / Audis. I keep a can of Mr Muscle in my toolbox.
  11. On the Mk2 golf, you adjust the linkage with a plate fitted, that locks the car in a gear, and then you do up the linkage clamp. Going into reverse instead of first a common symptom. No idea if these are the same, but I’m pretty sure it’s a similar gearbox. My dad had a C plate estate many years ago. C608 YWK if I remember right. 1.6 engine but not high spec. He always wanted a countryman but wouldn’t have diesel, as many seemed to be. Great find, and must be impossibly rare now.
  12. Rusty old nail update. Been a bit busy on a few other of the fleet last few weeks, partners Civic had a gearbox and clutch change, Old Golfs needs an MoT and also there’s a rusty vw camper in the unit next to the beast, so I’ve renamed a corner of the workshop “the bay of decay”. Works continuing in the rear arch, but not much photo worthy to add. As you can see, it’s still raining rust underneath, and it’s not been outside in moisture for about two years.
  13. Dolphin glaze is a type of stopper, Like a fine filler to even out scratches, small low spots etc. You want a smear of it after you’ve 99 percent clagged it. It’s good stuff, but shite as a filler for wonky bits. Im still finishing off my Daihatsu arches, along with about 1000 hrs more welding hours! Jesus, the Japanese are good at building rust buckets.
  14. Try S and T chroming, for the front bumper. Beleive it or not they may be able to fix it. We used to send them allsorts from damaged classics. Guys are wizards.
  15. On the subject of strong Chrysler’s, I beleive the old imperial model is one of the few things banned in unlimited bangers, for being too strong!
×
×
  • Create New...