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Everything posted by BeEP

  1. The fuel is coming from the bottom of the float chamber, where the pipe to the jet exits, not from the top as would be the case if the float needle was stuck. There is a little olive and rubber o-ring (I think) underneath the nut where the pipe goes into the chamber. The olive has a habit of snapping off taking the bit of pipe inside it with it. Although as it's all been apart it probably just needs a re-assembly tweak as SiC says, I managed to break one when playing with the carb on one of my Allegros last week.
  2. Tidy looking Camry with full MOT and manual gearbox... https://www.gumtree.com/p/toyota/toyota-camry-/1374406431
  3. BeEP

    Morris 1300

    I've only had a coil fail once (on an A40 farina), but it did give the symptoms of being fine when cold then increasingly spluttery and dying when hot. Took me a while to work it out as I kept assuming condenser or fuel related, Eventually I put my hand on it, and removed it again very quickly! Not sure swapped wires would cause the same, but no harm trying. Or just try another coil if you have one.
  4. That's a shame, especially given the hours/miles he put into collecting it!
  5. I know Gumtree has its detractors, but advertised the 940 on there at 8.30 this morning, enquiry at 9.30, viewed and paid for by 12.30 and collected this evening ?. Maybe too cheap, but I've only just taken the ads down and there's been no other interest.
  6. One of the myriad types of Mazda 323 from the 90s. Two weeks MOT but that should mutate into six months shortly... https://www.gumtree.com/p/mazda/1998-mazda-323f-1.5cc-2-owners-becoming-rare-/1374253571
  7. As everyone on here is buying ado16s, here's another one. Looks tidyish, but MOT history shows shed loads of welding, so it all depends how well it's been done... https://www.gumtree.com/p/austin/austin-1100-classic-car-for-sale/1374109478
  8. BeEP

    Kade's Volvo 940

    @Kade If you'd rather have Volvo wheeltrims (at least until you get some alloys) you'd be welcome to these from a 1993 940 for the cost of postage. They are a bit scuffed around the edges but not too bad. Let me know if interested.
  9. So the local garage re-opened last Tuesday. The plan had been to get the black 1800 in for MOT straight away, but on hearing that its sale was no longer happening it threw its toys out of the pram in the biggest hissy fit imaginable. The alternator failed (trivial), the exhaust sprouted a hole (also trivial), then it stepped things up a notch. Or two. Firstly the intermittent issue with the clutch release bearing (which I thought had gone away) returned with a vengeance. It's now pretty much impossible to select gear when cold and stationary and not that much better when warm (it's ok on
  10. BeEP

    Morris 1300

    Glad you've got it running again!
  11. You've probably mentioned it above, but do you have an inline filter between tank and pump or between pump and carb? If not I'd fit one to avoid too much crap making its way through. Although as commented on in RobT's Morris 1300 thread, even with such a filter tiny bits can get through that will stick the float valve, particularly with a car put back into use after a long lay-up. Just ask CraigThePrincess about the fun he had with his yellow Allegro estate!
  12. No doubt teaching granny to suck eggs here! The valve on the top of the float chamber should cut the fuel coming in; I'm not sure if excessive pressure could defeat it if in working condition but they can give problems anyway. The float can get a pinhole in it, fill up with fuel and (obviously) refuse to float. The 'needle' (I'm sure there's a more technical term someone will correct me with) in the valve can stick open (also closed; but that's obviously not the case here) and hold the float down. As a first check I'd take the top off the float chamber and, assuming the float itself is
  13. XM with MOT that also qualifies for the lacquer peel thread... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-XM/303582362057
  14. BeEP

    Morris 1300

    Not saying it isn't ignition, but I've never actually had condenser or points fail whilst driving. With me they seem to fail 'overnight'; presuambly during the cooling cycle or whatever from the previous journey.
  15. BeEP

    Morris 1300

    Was there fuel in the float chamber after it died? Quite common for the float valve to get crap stuck in it after a vehicle has been put back on the road, even with an inline filter. Always my first port of call if an a-series which has been running well suddenly doesn't (assuming no wires are visibly detached from the coil etc).
  16. A few foibles, but doesn't look too bad for £395 (apologies if re-post) https://www.gumtree.com/p/rover/rover-620-sli-/1373472574
  17. To be honest I'm surprised the rubber pipe and jubilee clip fix is holding up. I've done that before where it helped to have cars off the ground for shunting purposes (ie on and off trailers) but they've never stayed up long term and I wouldn't want to drive it far like that. But suck it and see is probably a good approach, it won't go down suddenly (at least from that repair) so as long as you haven't strayed too far from home you can toddle back at 30mph.
  18. Yes, you very much can; I've already suggested this to SiC. I've driven thousands of miles over many years with suspension repaired* this way and never had a problem, and I did the same to Craig the Princess's yellow Allegro estate the week before setting off on a round Ireland trip in 2014. It's been in use ever since and the suspension has never been touched since then. Obviously the holed bit of pipe needs to be in an accessible place (they usually go behind the clips which hold them to the floor) and having cut the dodgy bit(s) out you need to get the remaining ends completely clean.
  19. I haven't felt the need to compression test mine yet, but when I do I'll be chuffed with similar results. With regard to the bonnet hinge, I notice that the hinge is on the wrong side of the bonnet bracket. The hinges should be on the outside of the brackets. This probably explains why it looks like the bonnet is sitting too far to the offside of the car, and may help with you finding a position where it clears the scuttle.
  20. Assuming the original box then no synchromesh on first. This was added with the change to mk2. Sloppiness in gearchange can often be improved by tightening the splined joints where the linkage attaches to the gearbox, A bit of a fiddle, but can be done leaning down the back of the engine, Also check the 'sandwich' plate between the gearbox and remote extension is in good condition and not allowing the whole remote to move. Easy and cheap(ish) to change. Another vote for replacing the clutch hose if the pedal feels too stiff. As RobT says, they have a habit of breaking down internally
  21. As above. Don't worry about mayo (the one I've just bought had at least that much). That and the state of plugs/air filter suggests many short runs and not getting fully warm. In the unlikely event it does have HGF it's only a couple of hour's work to do and won't cost much. Whilst compression tests and checking timing are never bad ideas, I just think it's running way too rich. As CtP suggests, is the choke mechanism returning fully when pushed in? They can stick, or even be adjusted such that they never return fully. I'd also go for a default carb setting; wind the jet fully up then o
  22. Yes, should have 'low back' seats with stobe effect and the early headrests. That interior is from a 1983 onwards model. Also should have twin wide coachlines and not a rubbing strip. Like this... It's still an applejack Metro though, so can be forgiven most faults!
  23. Tidy looking Felicia... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Felicia-GLI-VGC/184295732544
  24. Love the VIN plate, like the mirrors, would dislike whitewalls. But my taste rarely aligns with the majority, so probably best ignored!
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