rainagain

I took the front wheels off and following an excellent tip off here I cleaned them with cillit bang burnt on degreaser. This took all the crap off both sides with hardly any scrubbing required. My friendly fitter then popped my new tyres on. I was only able to collected the wheels the night before the test was due, I put them back on and went to give the car a blast as recommended by the tester. Of course the car had other ideas and the battery has gone flat in the week since the fail. I’m not sure if it has a fault somewhere causing an excessive current draw or the battery is just terrible. I only bought the battery over a year ago but it was literally the cheapest new battery I could find. Supposedly it has a four year warranty but how exactly I’m supposed to show it’s faulty and do without a car when I send it back I don’t know. Luckily I had a charger in my basement so I was able to charge it over night. The morning of the test I got up even earlier than I normally do (4:30 for the win!) and gave it a good blast round where I stay. Well worth it as I got this later in the day:

And…bugger The smoke plate says 0.5 and they failed it at 0.51. The tyres are annoying as I only put them on last year after the first mot test. I was a bit paranoid it was going to shit itself with a major fault so I put part worns on. They have plenty of tread but the tread is starting to break up. They said they could do the joint for £100 and as I don’t have the tool to remove it I let them do this. I’ve ordered some Radar Dimax R8+ from round trip tyres. They are supposedly A rated for wet grip so I’m hoping they’re not completely shite. I’ve got a tame fitter who will pop them on for me.

All done i also slapped in some waxoyl mixed with a smidge of old engine oil to make it look less like the titanic.

I had to take a short break when I managed to get the first cup on, only for it to ping off whilst I was moving the spring around after cutting the wire. Eventually it was all together. I used these funky pliers to pull the top spring on. I’m not entirely sure how they’re supposed to work but the hook part is perfect for grabbing the spring. Edit: I watched a YouTube video and I now know how to use these. One side done, one to go.

With everything removed, I cleaned the backplate and gave the dust shield a quick vactan. Then I fitted the lower mech, both shoes and lower spring. This was a moment requiring great patience not to scream too loud when the whole load fell on the ground for the umpteenth time. But eventually it was together. I’m glad I bought the brake spring kit as the retaining pins were well past their best. After reading many horror stories about rebuilding these on the net I picked up a tip of putting the retaining springs in a vice and wiring them compressed. Then you slide them over the pins and cut the wire. I thought I’d give it a try. I had a problem where the back pin having nothing to hold it would fall out the back making it hard to get the cup on. I used an old hard disk magnet with a couple of washer to push against the back of the pin, the magnet held the whole lot snuggly against the back plate.

May be a bit late now but if you want to enhance the sound proofing put a layer of a house carpet underlay between the carpet and the dynamat. It does look amazing.

Well done on the pass, I’d be tempted to leave the led lamps in. I’ve passed plenty of mots with different cars with leds fitted. As long as they’re half decent ones so you get the same beam spread.

The other side was a little easier to get apart as I was able to back off the adjuster. However the shoes fell apart, not too much of an issue as I’ve ordered new ones.

It looks like the shoes are original. I was hoping to reuse them until I saw how little meat was left on them at the bottom. The adjuster was seized solid and the cable was seized on the adjuster, I am amazed how I had any hand brake action at all. By putting the adjuster in a vice and compressing it, I was able to get it moving so I could open it up and clean it. I made up this little tool by grinding a slot in an old screwdriver. It makes removing the brake springs slightly less sweary

Next on the to do list is the hand brake. I was shocked to find that not only did the calliper come off on but so did the carrier. I was even more shocked when I was able to remove the retaining screw. Then I ran into problems as the adjuster was seized so I couldn’t back it off. The wear lip inside the drum was making it hard to get the disc off. I resorted to hammering it, then rotating it 180 and hammering it again. Eventually I was able to get a spanner behind the side I wasn’t hammering so I could pull it towards me to keep it reasonably square. Off it popped.

Whilst I was carrying out these repairs I also treating a couple of bits of rust. I’m a bit disappointed how the vactan turned out. If you look closely the vactan has sort of cracked like old paint. And the rust is already coming through I rubbed it down and applied a high zinc content primer.

I followed this pipe but it went to the top of the power steering rack at the rear of the subframe. I couldn’t see anyway to remove it without dropping the entire subframe. I didn’t fancy this so I had a chat with a local hydraulic hose company. I removed the hose from the top of the power steering pump and brought this metal part to them. I explained about the seized male end and they said I could use a ‘tube’ nut to connect onto it but they didn’t have anything the right thread. I remembered I had the petrol cooler that I’d bought and found it had a tube nut as part of it. They were able to take this and the metal pipe that connects to the power steering pump and make up this section of hose, all for a very cheap £41! I was able to run this under the radiator pack and on to the seized male end of the pipe. Although it uses small O rings to seal, I put Ptfe tape on all the threads just in case. I filled the system and whilst crossing every part of my body I started the engine. No leaks, I then pushed the wheel to both end stops and held it there for maximum pressure and again no leaks! It was quite a journey but I now have non leaking power steering.

My next plan was to disconnect the very rusty union that sits on top of the subframe and have one of the welders at work weld a section of pipe in. I’d already checked with him and he said he could do that no problem if I brought the pipe in. However the rusty union had other ideas. I did manage to loosen it but I couldn’t unscrew as the male fitting on the right had rusted solid to the pipe. In the end I got it unscrewed by bending the remains of the cooler and unscrewing the whole thing. This is the end on the cooler pipe work. And I was stuck with this seized male fitting on the car’s pipe work

With the subframe done it was time to look at the power steering. I had cut the rusty section out leaving me with this. My plan was to insert a piece of high pressure pipe between the two ends and use heat shrink on the pipe on the left to build up its diameter so it matched the one on the right. This was a disaster as the pipe kept popping off as there was no ridge on the pipe for the clamps to grip on. I tried to use jubilee clips to hold the hose against the solid pipe to stop it popping off. This worked in a fashion as it it made the other end pop off. At this point it was back to the drawing board as they say.

I levered the rear n/s of the subframe down and with the help of a lot of rubber grease I was able to fit the new bush in place then use a jack to pop it in place. All the how to videos I watched on YouTube were as far as I could tell petrol Saabs. I’m not sure if this makes a difference to the engine mounts but there was no way I could lever the subframe down enough to fit the other three bushes. Even with all the bolts off on the side I was working on and the strut top bolts loose the subframe wouldn’t come down enough. I resorted to using a tip I saw on a thread about bush replacement. That is to cut the bush in half and simply pop both bits in from each side and then stick in the crush tube to hold it together before you pass the bolt through it. Cutting the bushes was a bit of a nightmare, I read not to saw them as it removes material, I tried to use a sharp Stanley type knife but this wouldn’t touch them. In the end I found the best thing was to use my Leatherman’s serrated blade whilst pulling the bush apart as you cut. Although I managed to cut pretty square around the bush, to save having any problems I stuck a dot of paint on each end so I can align them how they were cut. I used one of the crush tubes to support the bush as I cut it. And installed I also took the opportunity to clean, vactan and then paint the inside of the arches and as much of the subframe as I could reach. Here’s the reinforcing panels waiting on a coat of black chassis paint having already been wire brushed and vactan’d

The other side bushes were removed in the same manner Middle bush Rear bush outer

I removed bushes on one side. The top one is the rear most bush inner that just fell out, the bits below are the middle bush. This actually felt ok but I thought I’d change it anyway. The middle bush has a plastic surround which popped out without too much trouble. The read bush has a metal surround as you can see below. I couldn’t get the car up high enough to get my air recip saw in place so used a dremel cutting disc to slice as much as I could then I used a stone in a drill to grind away the edge. I used a screwdriver to level the edge up and worked my way round. I also cut into it with a small cold chisel. Eventually it was loose enough to level out. I used this wire brush in the drill to clean out the holes.

The next step is cutting out the older bushes, I’m also toying with cutting the poly bushes in half to make them easier to fit. I’ve read quite a few people do this as it means you don’t need to push them in and also you don’t need to lower the subframe as much.

I also removed the front o/s wheel arch liner to get a better look at the union I need to undo to remove the power steering cooler. In this pic the RHS goes to the rack and the LHS goes to the cooler. From looking at the pipe it looks like I have to clamp the larger bit on the left and the undo the bit on the right, however I’m pretty sure that is just going to twist up the pipe I can’t really get any heat on it as it’s right next to the front sub frame bush and I don’t want to damage this.

Before I went any further with the power steering pipe replacement I thought it would be best to sort the subframe bushes as if this went very badly wrong I wouldn’t have wasted time on the pipe. I had a bit of trouble getting the front of the car high enough, I could only see one video on YouTube where the guy changing them is doing it on the ground and not a ramp and he just jacked it up by sticking a trolley jack under the front of the subframe. My trolley jack doesn’t really go that high so I had to stick some bits of wood under it just to get it high enough to let me get my axles stands under the sills at their lowest setting. Where would be a safe place to jack to bring it up higher? I’ve got two trolley jacks so I can jack both sides at the same time. I was thinking of the chassis rails at the end toward the engine. It looks like it will be handy to be higher for cutting the old bushes out. I managed to get all the subframe bolts out even though some were very very I’m sure this is going to shear tight. The bushes at the back are absolutely wrecks, you can push them up and down with your finger I alway left at least two bolts in to stop the frame from dropping as I worked round the bolts. I’m planning on leaving the front ones in loose and levering the frame down as per what I’ve seen online and just changing the back and middle bushes.

Oh dear made a bit of a mess of my dad’s driveway and path Any ideas what take steering fluid off concrete and tarmac?

The rubber pipe is rated 2000psi if I could just get it to not to pop off! I found a guy on eBay making them up for various Saabs, however I asked him about mine and got this reply:

Ffs what an awful afternoon I had with this. I thought I’d tackle the power steering leak as it should be a relatively easy job. I started off cutting out the rotten section. I then shrunk heat shrink over the pipe on the left to make it the same diameter as the one in the right. I fitted my piece of high pressure hose and used my circular clips to secure it. I filled the system and started the engine, I wondered why the wheel wouldn’t turn, so I cut the engine and found that the pipe had popped off and dumped all my lovely and expensive fluid on my dad’s drive. This is quite impressive as that hose is not really flexible. I came up with the idea of using a jubilee clip to hold it against the other pipe so it couldn’t snake off. It worked a bit longer this time and I cleverly had a tub ready to collect the fluid. Again it fell off. I repeated the above but used three junkies clips to hold it hard against the other pipe, this kinda worked as instead the other one popped off. Obviously my tub wasn’t under here so it pissed out the fluid, again. At this point I walked away and resisted the urge to reach for the petrol and matches and called a friend. I have a petrol cooler as I couldn’t find a diesel one, my friend thinks he can chop up the new cooler and weld the bits into the old one. However to do this I’ll need to remove the cooler which means trying to tackle this union that sits on top of the subframe, which I was trying to avoid. I look forward to this. In hindsight I should have just cleaned up the hole and chucked some chemical metal on it with a jubilee clip but I didn’t think this would work as the pipe was rotten. I’ve spliced a piece of hose like this into the cooler on my OH’s Tucson years ago and it worked perfectly I can only think this system must operate at a higher pressure.

I had a wee bit of time tonight, not enough to get stuck into any of the the proper jobs so I looked at some rust. These were areas I had vactan’d last year. The rust had come through already. I gently took an angle grinder to them with a sanding disc. I realise now looking at these pics I should have removed more paint on the part shown above. All I could think of was vactan’ing them again which I did I’m not sure what to do next, either another coat of vactan or just sand and stick some high zinc content primer on. Also what do I do about using body filler to smooth it out? I know you’re supposed to apply filler straight to bare metal but in that case what do I do for rust proofing?

I also spread some silicone round the tired seal on the shark fin. Before After I’m hoping this is going to solve the water ingress I found in the boot. Does anyone know what this aerial actually does? I read the car uses the heated rear windscreen for the radio so what’s the shark fin for?