Jikovron

The fiat wheel bolts would have worked in exactly the same fashion as the suggestion in that the drum is centred on the hub spigot and the bolts stopped the drum moving purely through clamping force, I often find that brake discs have a a really sloppy hole around the wheel studs and yet dont shift even though the front wheels on a car weighing 3 times more will be exercising huge braking torque comparitively.

It may be prudent to take note of the tensile strength of an engineering supplier sourced steel stud fastener, there is a sizeable amount of general purpose unf studs available that are mild steel cut into form out of rod stock rather than heat treated and roll forged like an automotive wheel bolt/stud, maybe the low weight makes it a more casual observation possibly. Just some random thoughts but It might be possible to screw a 3/8 unf set bolt right through a mini wheel nut to convert it to a wheel bolt with carefully length calculation to avoid the end battling with the brake shoes/wheel cylinder, or maybe lathe turned cone washers with a light push fit onto the bolt possibly if correct studs prove to be elusive. As an aside motor factors seem to be getting less useful now cars dont need decokes, tube type tyres,glass fuses,general tune ups etc and classic specialists seem to be extremely parochial in their support for specific marques so seem to barely acknowledge cross pollination into 'other' cars, a local MG place seem aghast to sell stuff for a 1500midget that is destined for a dolomite etc bizarre really.

It looks like those are general purpose studs fitted into a redrilled fiat? Hub , the other unused wheel bolt holes may be on 98mm pcd with the 2 wheel locating peg holes, possibly fiat 500 wheels may bolt straight on with m12 wheel bolts but that's purely a guess !

No dizzy on these, but it does have a double cam sensor setup controlling 3 coil on plug sparklers as it's got a variable advance inlet cam so needs to reference its advance , any problems with the timing setup pings on the eml straight away and makes it run despicably rough. These can blow through petrol, if I keep up with the 3rd and 4th lane traffic on the M1 i can drop it into the late 40s mpg wise usually as you say dropping into 4th or even third to keep it responsive up inclines, I get decent economy by essentially just letting it slow on inclines in 5th as it will maintain 65 with very little throttle input, but wants full throttle to gradually get to 70 .

4 ratchet straps suffice as consumable engine mounts and a fan belt through the floor to a lashed up diff nose with a tensioner pulled away by the clutch pedal would be an hours work if ignoring the finer details like 110kw transmitted via a 12mm V belt so eminently doable and should positively effect economy and relaxing driving dynamics to boot !

I've got 2 of these and think I've never had a better car for almost all purposes except towing stuff , the one pictured took in that v8 like it was the weeks shopping and even has proper lashing points on the floor for ratchet straps, that particular trip to pick that engine up cost 15quid to do 155miles which is around 64mpg, my wifes car is slightly better on the juice but then it feels abit flatter than mine so doesn't reward reving it out through the gears, also whilst in advert mode these take 3litres of engine oil so a 20litre drum lasts like 6 full changes plus a smidge for refill haha, also the burning smell and eml light after a thrash, mine both do that despite vastly disparate mileages.

Triumph 1300 fwd 'sump' captured in the wilds of my back garden. Doesn't share oil as the box and diff are elaborately separated by needlessly thick wall iron so ideal wrecking ball replacement!

A metropolitan would have had a B series, this however would have been a flathead inline six of which it's no surprise that's gone as I imagine the fuel consumption and parts supply would have been diabolical at best, loads of scope for a more modern straight six on the cheap possibly as pinto engines seem to be gradually getting hit with ford tax.

Leyland nationals are my favourite as per this thread seemingly as it's great to read total enthusiasm about machinery I can barely remember on the roads , I rode on the number 8 L.N. from Scottswood road to Kenton bar back in 2006 before they succumbed to progress and journey wise it included decent stretch of hill rising out of lemington most likely a good 1:10 of which provoked the Leyland 510 plant coupled to I guess a slow shifting automatic gearbox into a rather deafening rhythmic symphony of measured mechanical taps and cylinder pressure waves, memorable stuff especially when juxtaposed against contemporary modern quiet efficiency.

I bought this with a replacement engine for my L251 Daihatsu Charade with a reputed 35000 miles upon its self. i'm unsure of how many gears it posesses but with no leaks/oil dampness backing up the mileage it might be of use to someone possibly. £0 from Chesterfield.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/100mm-v-belt-pulley-196mm/?da=1&TC=GS-000140010&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4sSX85OQ4AIVz5PtCh26YQVDEAQYASABEgKCuPD_BwE The pulley looks simple enough that one of those possibly might work with minor machining work

we have got 2 of these in a his and hers style mainly due to being able to average 65mpg tank to tank where the estelle was scraping 28mpg as a daily car which evidently is well under half the £14 spent normally on a 70 mile round commute. years ago, cars like these would have been a nightmare proposition for me but these days i only really see advantages mainly through how decently a good example just gets on with the job of being a competent for the early 2000s small car. ive had 5 reasonably large adults in mine over a short distance which highlighted how narrow the body is but 4 in the car over a 400mile trip didnt feel difficult at all infact ive yet to own a car with more rear passenger space than one of these, it still rode well and had reasonable reserve on the motorway at the limit relative to its 23mph per 1000 top mine with 140k on the clock shows no sign that its covered that distance with nothing inside showing noticeable signs of wear or indeed any particular sign of drivetrain issues aside from a maladjusted handbrake, even the AC works which was a novelty in the summer albeit made itself felt when the compressor felt the need to sponge away power. parts seem to be abit hard to find as breakers dont ever seem to have them in and otherwise there isnt much shopping around to be done as the supply lines seem to originate from the same places so prices seem to be the same one problem mine had was that the heat shield for the brakes rotted and spun round the hub carrier blocking the abs sensor which in these cars is less than ideal as the power steering defaults to full power assist so its worth cutting the shield off completely if its loose on the carrier imo.

Random K series noise from memory The crankshaft, conrods and the engine block are the same otherwise the differences are fairly involved especially for the 160 which in turn has minor mechanical differences between it and the 143 VVC. The pistons are different between the 120/143 and 160 in valve cutout size and the 160 pistons are reputed to be stronger also. VVC heads have larger valves (160 is additionally 3angle seated) VVC ports are larger also at 36mm v 34mm The end journals of a VVC are 40mm and use the VVC mech to control cam end float so is a surmountable but uphill challenge to solid cam convert without the silly money piper cam conversion.

I bought one of these 80quid lightweight engine cranes last year, and promptly exploited it to load numerous Rover v8s and more recently a 5.7 hemi on and off a trailer which proved that it basically will do the work unfettered. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/06191-HYDRAULIC-Workshop-Crane-500kg-ENGINE-CRANE-HOIST-LIFT-Jack-Stand/372485192385?hash=item56b9d8fac1:g:c6kAAOSwvuhbn2Bt:rk:1:pf:0 possibly of use?

On 3 occasions i have removed a gearbox with a view to replacing it only to find a minor difference that has massively scuttled the job: Dolomite 1500 OD box with a failed reverse gear evicted from the shell with great vexation as the tunnel comes out and the exhaust has to be disturbed amongst other things,I then equipped the replacement with the bellhousing and immediately noted the input shaft was 1.5" longer so i had to basically refit the hideous mess of a gearbox to drive home. latterly i removed the 4 speed gearbox of my estelle with a view to fitting a 120l5 gearbox however i baulked at relieving the floor crossmember for the extra bulk of the 5 speed so again simply* refitted the 4 speed back. Most recently my good lady off her own back found a mk2 suzuki ignis of the same year and facelift etc being parted up for spares and subsequently arranged to pick up the gearbox, a quick deek revealed it looked basically the same, however upon removal of the tired gearbox out of our car i discovered the clutch splines,mounting points,clutch connection,diff splines where all rather different !! after some hasty hindsight research i inferred that mk1 ignis cars have the light duty gearbox,shafts,hubs and a narrower track, and mk2s have the 'vice versa' ,but our car is a sort of facelift mk1.5 with the mk1 gearbox and a hybrid set of driveshafts to adapt to the wide track and mk2 hubs of which has made finding driveshafts/cv joints almost impossible to find!