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Everything posted by jbz2079

  1. What about connection for a rev counter on higher spec'ed motors?
  2. MWC821P looks incredibly like a Mini Clubman when photographed from that angle.
  3. Thanks for the update, so glad that KAZ decided you were due a break and sprang into life. I've owned cars like TAZ, no matter what you done for them it was returned by more hassle and total unreliability. The one I was thinking about was a red Allegro three door estate, bought because someone had demolished my 1500 Special Allegro by crashing into it. I thought I'd use the original car for spares, but like your two similar cars everything mechanical was rather different, I mean everything. Nothing would swap. I got out of Allegro ownership and ran a few Mini's (stop laughing at the back!) I could write a book on those too. By the way, your writing style is excellent.
  4. Ohh deary deary dear that's broken, hydraulic tappets don't usually make that sort of noise. That is one singular thing inside the cam area that is broken and being slapped around, like a broken cam finger. A look under the cam cover won't hurt there might be an easy fix but knowing what happened I would not place any chips on fixing it. Still it would be nice to know what is broken.
  5. jbz2079


    Ha Ha, you know only a spanner would buy a Banner. I've had more slow cranking, confused electric and FTS when cold with these than enough. Avoid like the plague.
  6. Could the carburettor problem be as simple as water in the float bowl? Classic symptom is the "TUK" spit back as it goes weak the pressure in the inlet blows the water back from the main jet and off it goes, till next time.
  7. Just spent a couple of hours looking through this thread while listening to music. Many thanks to all posters, very entertaining. There was a time in the mid 80's I seemed to spend half my time as Coach Driver in N newcastle or surrounding area. So a lot of what was redeveloped I knew.
  8. jbz2079


    When OAT Antifreeze is used by manufacturer it seen to have a four to five year life. When it degrades it starts to eat the head gasket and the edges of the cooling channels in the head. The Glycol type has a far shorter life span, perhaps too years maximum, then it becomes corrosive to engine internals and radiator core. Constant topping up with plain water weakens the strength of both the corrosion protection. Running without Antifreeze make an unbelievable mess in the cooling system of moderns and I reckon coolant is better at removing heat than just water.
  9. jbz2079

    Bus Shite

    I'm betting the new bendys won't last 25 years never mind 40. Those old B58 were really some motor, powerful, easy to drive and reliable. Something that Leyland were struggling with even back then. My first encounter with a B58 after Bedfords and a few Leopards was a real show stopping moment.
  10. I have covered many miles in a red one of those, an Estate also on a W plate. I was swapped for a C4 that was worth more as a trade in as someone preferred a high milage Zantia to a high milage C4. It was turbine smooth running and sipped diesel very slowly. Last I heard it was being bridged at 180,000 mile as it wanted a clutch. Shame it was still a very useful reliable motor.
  11. We acquired an old red 350 Jawa that someone had weighed in as he thought the main bearing were on the way out. We moded it as a shore bike, All lights removed, ignition coils moved from under fuel tank to inside the air box and a big knobbly speedway tire for the back wheel. It usually started easily when cold, was not that fast in real terms but quite torquey. After a full day thrashing it on the sand and around the landscaped park we would be that knackered we could hardly lift it back into the van. If you let it stall when it was hot it usually refused to start again till you had kicked it to death on the gear lever starter, then it would start running very badly sounding like a blocked hoover till it eventually revved up and cleared it's throat, then all would be well till next time it stopped. At around 55/60 mph on sand it would break into a weave, I used to just go with it as fighting the weave would usually make it turn violent and pitch you off. We got bored trying to break it by thrashing it and moved on to other bikes. The Jawa died when two young boys rattled someones new car with it as the sped through a local village.
  12. We had a Leyland Marina 1700 HL estate in applejack green I managed to grab it as a sold as seen trade in in the garage my Mum served fuel in. COL159V. The usual rusty wing tops just behind the headlights and a worn propshaft joint, both problems soon sorted. The things that old car moved, towed and was generally involved in. I true B/L fashion it needed repaired often, the stupid little things that annoy, door locks, fuel sender, broken switches and a couple of broken rear springs. Though these might be excused from the weight we made it carry. It liked gearboxes too, all the bigger engined Marinas did the extra torque killed them, that's assuming reverse didn't break first. We kept that old car about six years, by then it was seriously rusty and needed quite a bit of tender welding for it's test. It was cheap to buy and lasted quite well, but the standard of parts fitted was abysmal, but when you have had nothing but British Leyland stuff you think everything else is the same. My first French car was a Citroen Dyanne that was in need of a fair bit of welding for it's mot, are exhaust and the brakes sorted, after which it was serviced and ran faultlessly for a whole year. It was thrashed and had nothing but a couple of tyres and oil changes. I sold that to a wagon driver who got two years out of it. All my cars have been French and Diesel since, Renault 21. 2.12td, Bx. 1.9D, Xantia 1,9td. 405. 20.HDI. C5 2.2HDI and C3 1.4HDI. Folk say French stuff is crap, all mine apart from the C5 which I didn't keep long as it was fuel cooled. 25MPG on a good day. Have been quite reliable and made big miles without too much hassle.
  13. I always run diesel cars and they always have big batteries, so I try and keep the batteries in good order and replace them when they get tired. Having said that, modern batteries go from being fine to knackered instantly. The old 60's and 70's batteries would carry on being supported by a charger or push starting for ages till you had saved up for a new one. With all the electronics cars have these days not following the sometimes complicated instructions on how to change a battery can cause electrical mayhem! Peugeot and Citroen owner will know this. My diesel C3 has a procedure that is fairly complicated and even then after the reset you still often have to re-learn the electric windows and retune the radio and set the clock. Years ago when I drove for a local coach company they had a Bedford Coach that when you changed the fuel filters was always a real pig to bleed up and get running. It was so predictably bad that they would leave the filters till it showed signs of running badly before changing the fuel filters. One day I turned up after dinner to be asked to lend a hand to try and get this thing started with it's new filters on. The batteries were in the floor just behind the drivers seat in the central gangway. The garage Absaar Starter/ charger was already connected and set on maximum boost. My instructions were once the engine started firing keep it going on the starter till it revved up. The other operator was feeding the easy start into the air cleaner box. After many repeated attempts where the engine would be actually running at a speed slightly above tickover for 30/40 seconds on just easy start we were still battering the stater motor as soon as the engine came to rest. Watching the exhaust tail pipe in the mirror I could see nothing at all coming out when it ran on the easy start, it was as clean as a whistle. After a prolonger period of cranking puff of black were appearing meaning it was starting to inject diesel. it began trying to run by itself on diesel fuel but I still had the key switch heat over, the throttle floored when I noticed the battery charger has burst into flames. With one hand I tried to unplug it from the extension cable, pulled the charger towards me pulling the crocodile clips off the batteries and threw it still burning out the entrance door. The engine was still stuttering and undecided if it was going to pick up or stop but still running, suddenly it let out a big belch or diesel smoke and revved right up to the governed speed. After a few blips on the pedal I let the engine return to idle. The other guy comes to the cab window and says, "Is that burning smell the starter?" "No The Battery Charger has just committed Hair Kari" I replied. "Bloody cheap shite" He replied. I thought it wanted a decent burial after such a traumatic end and for it's valiant effort.
  14. jbz2079

    Bus Shite

    I've seen one on the road, it belonged to Blackpool Transport and it was new. They had a few, they didn't persist with them for long though.
  15. Ouch! Bet that caused a "Moment".
  16. I know of a Bus company in Scotland that ran a huge fleet of early Leyland Nationals. They had one duffied up for MOT duties and swapped chassis plates and numberplate to suit. This was going well till a keen bus spotter snapped one out on the road and later on realised it had two sets of entrance / exit doors. The numberplate's belonged to a bus that was built as a single door and had spent most of it's working life as such.
  17. To be fair the plastic clip breaks cos the clutch is fucked and bloody heavy On that very subject. 1.9 TZD BX with millions of miles on it snapped it's clutch cable. I used to run a BX so I knew changing this cable was not easy, bad access and clips bolted in hard to reach places. Anyway the cable was changed over two nights after work with much swearing and skint knuckles. First press of the clutch pedal the new cable snapped, " BRIDGED"
  18. A bit of consideration in putting the twatting bolt in the opposite way would have been dandy on RHD Been there done that, several times. No one is going to convince me that Fiat don't know exactly what is involved in changing those rear pads on the Panda. They just hope that by the time it needs them it's out of warranty. So basically the don't care. Fiat were always seen as clever in the slick design of their cars, it reality it has always been how cheap can we make this, how can we make it quicker to assemble on the line. All this is nothing new, lots of late 80's small Fiats had something that failed on the steering column can't remember what, but it meant a whole new column to fix but that one part would make the whole car scrap due to it's cost. Also as it was a common fault they were very unobtainium second hand. I'm loving the idea of ECU controlled oil and coolant pumps, WCPGW there! Honest mate it was running great till a broken wire totally wrecked the engine.
  19. I wonder how a Marina would be with an A40 box? Or a Dolly Sprint engine? The Marinas they sent to Australia had the Maxi engine and gearbox and were front wheel drive. So, from quite shit to even shitter.
  20. I had an N reg 1.9TD just turned 100,000 when I got it and a few years later it managed to read 250,000 and the engine was as sweet and economical as ever. No body corrosion of any kind but a few sphere mounts (rear) corroded through and leaking. I had the feed pipes to the front struts snap and need replacing. I away found it to be a quiet comfortable, economical car, I changed the spheres a few times and it had an appetite for front tyres. Generally I would check the oil and screen wash fill it with fuel and drive it. Needed driveshafts, brakes, tyres and brakes for test all at the same time, so I decided it had to go. I missed it terribly for a long time. A very clean tidy 406 HDI was it's replacement, not a bad motor but not a Zantia. Try finding a good one now though.
  21. jbz2079


    I've always thought that an engine temperature indicator that actually reads in real time an item that was indispensable. How many recent cars are not fitted with one. You instinctively knew where it used to sit when indicating normal running temperature and if it read different it gave a clue to something abnormal under the bonnet. An overheat light is a bit like sending a second class letter, once it has tripped untold damage has already been done. Tachometers are a nice extra, but unless your engine has a very high state of tune, unnecessary. You can hear and feel how fast an engine is turning. Oil pressure gauges are handy when buying something you know nothing about, but how many high mileage engines have you seen that indicate almost no oil pressure when properly hot, but carry on regardless as the oil is still circulating? A big bank of gauges always looks impressive, but in real life they are only any good if they read correctly.
  22. I used to be memerised by those belt drive Mobys. It was basically the same system as the Daf Variomatic cars, where the belt climbed up the front pulley to give a higher ratio so the back wheel turned faster. What amused me was to allow the belt to climb the pulley the engine used to swing rearward on it's mounts against a spring. Very simple but I always thought ingenious. The same principal is used on modern car CVT transmissions, not quite as sucessfully though, they are troublesome.
  23. I started in motorised transport on a £100 Fizzy. (NGD344M) It was nothing special, but it was my first taste of real freedom. While everyone else rode around town endlessly annoying everyone else, a friend and I would be away somewhere when we got the chance. As I lived in Glasgow, 15 minutes was the time it took to break clear of the city and be roaming around the open countryside. Life was never more fun or carefree as that first year, running around on the Fizzy. During the summer we used to organise Sunday runs. We would set out early with some local friends, sometimes eight or nine peds and cover a few miles. One memorable Sunday was up Loch Lommond side and back through Stirlingshire, 200 miles. An older friend had a Russian Combo and he used to carry the tools, two stroke oil a few spare spark plugs and a puncture repair kit. Simple fun of the type that is so hard to come by these days.
  24. That was it Wuvvum a Solex. This one was deep red in colour and had been a shipyard workers transport to work everyday for 15 years. The only maintainance it ever had was a new plug once a year, regular oiling to the moving parts and a few tyres. The engine had never been in bits.
  25. Didn't Batavus produce something similar to the Mobylette? There was a young lad round our way had a German Kreidler ped that looked a bit simple compared to the Suzuki A50P and the Yahama FS1E, a bit basic like one of those Italian Malaguti or Gitane mongrels with the quick melt engines. There was nothing basic about how it went though, the only other ped that could keep up with it was a Puch Grand Prix Special, it was a spruced up M50 with mag wheels, disc brake and a JPS type black paint job. Both these had engines with massive finning on the barrels and heads, it it had been a jap engine it would pass for a 125 in barrel size. This made them just about unburstable could be ridden flat out for hours on end. I sampled a Mobylette another long lived oldie that had its engine mounted over the front wheel. This was not noted for it's performance as the engine drove the front tire by a roller mounted on the crankshaft. You pulled an extra lever on the handle bars to decompress the engine, start pedalling, spinning the engine , then drop the lever, the engine would start, sometimes and off you would wobble. 27 MPH was about it's lot, we all tried for hours to crack 30, but it never happened. We also discovered that rain could have a bad effect on the friction between the drive roller and the front tyre. Another worrying feature was the direct powered candles that were supposed to be lights, when the engine stopped, no lights whatsoever! Definatly the motorcycling like of a 2CV but nowhere near as practical.
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