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13 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   wuvvum

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Posted 20 May 2008 - 09:11 PM

How many designed in rust-traps are there in the bodyshell of a Renault 6?I genuinely don't know the answer to this - every time I think I've found 'em all a new one appears. One thing's for sure though: Issigonis would have been proud. No wonder there's none of the bloody things left. How about a total lack of any inner arches in the back, for example, so mud and crap gets slung halfway up the inside of the C pillar? Or the half-inch gap between sill and floorpan, which actually goes up behind the sill and which is impossible to get to with anything short of those bendy springy things you use to unblock drains. I brought it out of hibernation on Saturday and I've already used nearly a bottle of Kurust on the hidden bits of the bodyshell. I really should have given it a more thorough clean before I put it in the garage for the winter, but then you don't really think of removing the rear light clusters and sticking a jet wash lance up inside the C-pillar, do you? :roll: I'm just happy the old crate hasn't deteriorated more than it has - with the amount of acidic Kentish mud and cow pat (it lived on a farm before I bought it) which has found its way into every nook and cranny I'm lucky I didn't open the door to find a little pile of brown dust on the garage floor. Bloody Renners...Sorry for the rant, I'm just a bit peed off with the whole thing - I was supposed to be getting it out of the garage, giving it a quick hose down and then getting it ready for its ticket. All this time I've been spending poking mud out of cracks and crevices was meant to be spent getting the Alfasud ready for the trip to the bubble car museum. At this rate it looks like I might have to chicken out and take the Saab. :roll:

#2 OFFLINE   mouseflakes

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Posted 20 May 2008 - 10:06 PM

My early R6 had the same problem - even the rear pillars were rusting through just below those air vents. All around the striker plates for the rear doors latches. Floorpan same as the R4, so the double-skinned areas had gone too. Still - you'll get it sorted wuvz!If it'll cheer you up, I've got two official Renault workshop manuals for the 6 - they're yours if you want them.

#3 OFFLINE   mk2_craig

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Posted 20 May 2008 - 10:35 PM

I really should have given it a more thorough clean before I put it in the garage for the winter, but then you don't really think of removing the rear light clusters and sticking a jet wash lance up inside the C-pillar, do you? :roll:

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#4 OFFLINE   wuvvum

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Posted 20 May 2008 - 10:40 PM

If it'll cheer you up, I've got two official Renault workshop manuals for the 6 - they're yours if you want them.

Ooh, now that is tempting. They'd certainly be better than the crappy Autobook manual I've got at the moment. How large are they though? Aren't they going to cost hundreds of pounds in postage?

#5 OFFLINE   IainL

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Posted 20 May 2008 - 10:48 PM

The lack of inner rear arches on your 6 is a bit of an eye opener for me.I thought I had my work cut out with same on an old Corsa I used to own....Good on you for keeping it alive though. As seems to be the case with a lot of threads I reply to, they all seem to end up with 'I like them so much i bought a/ have a model of one' :lol:

#6 OFFLINE   mouseflakes

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Posted 20 May 2008 - 10:57 PM

Aren't they going to cost hundreds of pounds in postage?

When I dig them out I'll get a price for postage. If the price is daft then perhaps they can make their way to you via the Autoshite network?

#7 OFFLINE   Mr_Bo11ox

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Posted 21 May 2008 - 09:39 AM

Have you gound a load of galloping rot? or just some mud-filled crevices, oo-er missus etc.

I have spent a couple of weeks of evenings so far welding the inner rear arches on my 'super sound' Subaru estate and have lost quite a lot of mojo because of that.

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#8 OFFLINE   Spottedlaurel

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Posted 21 May 2008 - 11:04 AM

I have spent a couple of weeks of evenings so far welding the inner rear arches on my 'super sound' Subaru estate and have lost quite a lot of mojo because of that.

Please don’t go all AlistairK on it though will you? I must make time to leave a note on that green one local to me.Wuvvum, I picked up an Autobook R6 manual for you, but by the sound of it it’s only useful for bunging in the sills and skimming filler over :wink:

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#9 OFFLINE   wuvvum

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Posted 21 May 2008 - 11:16 AM

Have you gound a load of galloping rot? or just some mud-filled crevices, oo-er missus etc.

I wouldn't call it "galloping rot" exactly, but there is certainly some rust there that wasn't there when I put it in the garage in December. The rear valance is looking a bit frilly round the edges and there are some nasty blisters around the rear lights and one on the scuttle panel which I'm a bit concerned about. There also seems to be a hole in the top of the nearside rear inner wing - I couldn't actually get to it to check as when I tried to pull the trim panel off it started to rip, but when I had my hand up inside the inner wing cleaning the mud off I could see the trim panel moving, which is probably not a good sign. So overall it's still structurally fairly sound (as far as I can see) but it certainly has some grot (which appears to be more than just surface) which wasn't there in December...

#10 OFFLINE   wuvvum

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Posted 21 May 2008 - 11:18 AM

Wuvvum, I picked up an Autobook R6 manual for you, but by the sound of it it’s only useful for bunging in the sills and skimming filler over :wink:

Thanks for the thought, but I really don't rate the Autobook manual for the 6. I'm not normally a fan of Autobooks anyway, but the R6 one is particularly poor. If you happen to come across a Haynes version though, let me know - it's not perfect but it's a heck of a lot easier to follow...

#11 OFFLINE   MrRegieRitmo

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Posted 21 May 2008 - 04:14 PM

there is certainly some rust there that wasn't there when I put it in the garage in December

Do cars rust in the dry then? (and if so then what's the point of garaging them?! :shock: )

#12 OFFLINE   Mr Lobster

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Posted 21 May 2008 - 08:12 PM

Do cars rust in the dry then? (and if so then what's the point of garaging them?! :shock: )

Its more that any mud retains some moisture and that because it is in a garage with little air circulation it doesn't really dry out so carries on rusting quite happily.I have had a very similar experience with a formerly nice R5 which I thought would need a quick tidy up. It needed rather more than that and is thus dead now.

#13 OFFLINE   Ratdat

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Posted 21 May 2008 - 09:33 PM

All that is needed for rust is oxygen and presence of moisture. Even indoors there will still be moisture in the air unless the environment is controlled as it is in one of those carcoo thingys. The less moisture the better so garaging cars is still beneficial.The presence of salt rapidly increases the rate at which oxidisation occurs and that will hold true even if the car is indoors. The rate of corrosion still won't be as rapid as it would be outside but if there's salt present it'll still corrode faster than it would otherwise. This is why, even if your car is outdoors all winter it'd highly beneficial to keep it as clean as you can.

#14 OFFLINE   Marty

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Posted 22 May 2008 - 11:58 AM

All that is needed for rust is oxygen and presence of moisture.

So short of moving to the Moon we are all knackered then :( Duck oil sprayed on anything vaguely rust prone always kept my Viarago chrome work looking OK for the summer.




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